It’s good that I had my latest Pixzilla project or I would have been another victim of the winter doldrums. You got it, a long-cold spell …the water froze early last year but the ice hasn’t been suitable for any serious fishing. I’ve read all the books that I can stand, and surfing the net doesn’t help either.

At times, it almost seems like I spend more time shoveling snow than in my workshop, regardless of what my wife says about it. I’ve already got most of my rods, reels and other tackle ready for the new season; but it’s still too cold to get serious about the boats.  I’m chomping at the bit to hit the water with my latest addition to the arsenal.

So, lets spend some time looking at my new custom +R tuned Pixy.  Along the way we’ll  cover some things like getting a reel painted, doing a smoothdrag.com drag kit upgrade, +R tuning a Pixy spool, and a few other goodies. Of course, there will be plenty of pictures, tips and lots of detail for those considering similar upgrades. An Aside: Little did I know when I started planning in November that the Pixy project would end up being my answer to the new Daiwa PX68. It’s expected to hit the shelves in a few more weeks!

Oh By The Way: Yes, that’s snow and ice in the background of some pictures, it was just starting to flurry when I took them. You didn’t think I’d let you get away without sharing some of it?

Background

Come-on, get real; how can you make a Pixzilla any better?!? It already approaches perfection for lighter presentations, and excels at pitching and casting a wide-range of lure weights.  It’s no wonder that I have many of them now; they are fun to use, don’t hardly weigh anything, and the profile is easy for my crippled old hands to palm.  If you’re a modder, there’s plenty to tinker with too! A Note: A stock Pixy is no slouch, many users outside of TackleTour have never heard of a Pixzilla! Just try buying a NIB LH Pixy – they don’t come up that often.  However, if you are patient you can snag a used one! That’s exactly what I did, so read on…

I love pitching, roll casting and side-arming a Zoom Lil-Crit for smallmouth and can never seem to get enough of it!  Most of the time I use them weightless on a light #1 bass hook rigged weed less.  But sometimes I’ll put a 1/64 to 1/16 oz bullet sinker above the hook when in a little deeper water, pitching to specific weed openings in the wind, or as the smallmouth just begin to move in for the coming spawn. In early winter, I’ll even use them on sharper drop-offs near deep water; for some reason a smallmouth can’t resist that super-slow natural fall!  Unfortunately, if you’ve ever pitched or cast a Zoom Lil-Crit this way you already know what I’m talking about – everything together doesn’t weigh more than 1/8 oz., and has about the same aerodynamic characteristics as a cotton ball! A Note: Although the Pixzilla does a fair job with the right rod, line and reel adjustment; I still wanted a little more.  Remember my previous blog about always wanting to crank everything I can out of a reel? Well, here’s another example! Enough said for now.

~3” green pumpkin Zoom Lil-Crit TR with 1/32 oz bullet weight.

I’ve grown addicted to swept 4-bearing handles; they seem to be so much easier on my wrist, although I really don’t have a preference in carbon vs. aluminum. I also like the feel of Reel Grips and have them on all of my reels, especially since the profile seems to work better with my fingers.  (O.K. you guys can laugh, I even use them on handles that have cork knobs!) Then you have the level wind upgrade; swapping the bushing for a new bearing and a small spacer sleeve, for better level wind performance and line lay.  Of course, how could you ever have a Pixzilla without a Carbontex drag upgrade? And what about upgraded spool bearings and polishing a few key components in the reel; you already know where I stand on them if you’ve followed my blogs.  Last but not least, I like a stealthy look. An Aside: Maybe I’m getting a little finicky in my old age, but I occasionally get wild with a bit of bling at times.  O.K. I admit it, red shad has always been one of my favorite color schemes; and if there is black/green/white sparkles’ mixed in with the black it really catches my attention. Hey, red shad is kinda-sorta stealthy, isn’t it? A Note: I decided not to do the standard TD-Z level wind line guide mod as I was reassembling the reel.  I’ve never really noticed much difference with or without it – so I stayed with the standard Pixy guide. (I admit that I typically use lighter and more-supple types of line, and suspect that is probably why the longer line opening hasn’t been much of a factor.)  So, I’ve slowly started to migrate back to a stock guide in my Pixies anyway.

So there you have it, my specifications for the make-over. A Blog Note: I don’t intend to cover much of the “hands-on” side of the reel make-over, except for the drag upgrade.  Instead, I’ll focus on things from a higher level – besides I’ve got other blogs that get into much of the actual detail.  There’s even more information in the Maintenance Section of the TackleTour forum.

Custom Paint Preps

Although the Pixy I purchased had a little boat rash on each side plate and the frame, it was lightly used and in excellent mechanical condition. So, how could I have a new “Super Pixzilla”, without a custom paint job? Fortunately, if you’ve been around TackleTour, it doesn’t take long before you hear and see the reels that Calfish has painted! I drool all over my keyboard every time I see them.

Red shad color in winter sunlight!

Let me start by saying that Calfish did an excellent job on painting the reel, it exceeded my expectations:

• All different parts of the reel are the same shade, depth and glossy finish. Nothing that was painted appears abnormal or out of place and everything looks better than any stock reel I’ve seen. It was obvious that plenty of time, attention to detail, etc. was put in to the painting.
• The finish cured extremely hard and really shines! Smudges and fingerprints, wipe off easily with a very light spray of Eagle One Nanowax and a micro-fiber rag. There were no chips or scratches after I reassembled the reel.
• You could tell that he put a lot of effort into controlling overspray, taping and ensuring that excess paint did not affect how the spool fits in the frame and mounting of other components.
• There were no runs or missed spots, or hint of blemishes from the original boat rash.
• Periodic communications throughout the process kept me up to date on the status.

An Aside: The pictures of the reel just don’t do his work justice, the dark red plates and contrasting black frame are hard to capture with a camera, and especially during a cold and snowy winter day. They become very vibrant in direct light and you can see tiny sparkles and depth within the paint. However, the colors gradually change to a deeper and darker shade in reduced light – almost becoming dark maroon and stunning black in the process.  Both the red shad and stealth look I was hoping for!

Indirect light gives a stealthy-red look!

You’ll need to disassemble the entire reel before you send the parts to Calfish.  Everything! So in the case of a Pixy, don’t forget to: remove the clutch lever plates from the frame; the A/R bearing, tension o-ring and white spring plate from the handle plate; and the adjustment knob when you remove the other magnetic braking components from the palm plate. I only point this out because these components seldom get removed in normal situations. (You’ll also want to store them in a safe location after you remove them, along with the rest of the reel parts!)

A Tip: If you’ve never removed an A/R bearing from a Daiwa handle plate, stand-by! Sometimes they will just slide out of the socket in the plate with little effort, and it isn’t a big deal. However, most of the time they are pressed-in and getting them out is more challenging. Occasionally they are pressed-in along with epoxy – and things can be a major challenge. Search the Maintenance Section of the TackleTour forum if you encounter the last two cases and need help!

A Big Note: If you don’t have the skills, tools or desire to completely disassemble and reassemble the reel, you can have it done by a reel tech. Review the posts on TackleTour to find techs that have worked closely with Calfish in delivering a completed reel. (You’ll find them mentioned in the Show and Tell or the Maintenance Section of the forum.) It’s a great way to get to the same point, and there’s nothing wrong with this approach (although it costs a bit more). Another Note: When you send the parts you’ll also need to include the spool and the spool bearing that is pinned to it. Calfish will ensure that the sides of the spool are not affected by any paint on the frame!

You’ll probably want to clean and inspect the parts before you send them for painting. I used a small tooth brush and a 20:1 dilute solution of Simple Green to scrub the parts, warm tap water for periodic soaks, and finished by rinsing them off with distilled water. Once the front plate, both side plates and frame were dry I wrapped them in bubble wrap before boxing them up.

Stealth and red shad in mixed light!

I knew Calfish was going to be busy painting reels for other forum members this time of year; something I’ve followed on TackleTour for a couple seasons now.  I was a little surprised that the parts came back about 6 weeks after sending them to him. There was still plenty of time to get a new handle, prepare other parts, etc., and even modify/test a Pixy spool with +R tuned braking components. There was always something to tinker with, and getting things ready was a good distraction during the blizzards that left us snowbound in part of January!

Custom Paint Reassembly

Swept IZE 4-bearing 80mm handle.

I had planned on dealing with the effects of paint long before I ever sent the parts to Calfish for painting.  Let’s face it, the spray and thickness of paint can be enough to affect the fit, mating, precision and even performance of reel components. [Also one of the reasons you need to be careful when painting a reel!] For example, the thickness of a coating can affect how one part matches and mounts with another. A run or little bit of paint in the wrong location can affect alignment or precision. In the case of threaded holes, overspray can affect how fasteners travel and torque components together.  Bearing sockets present a unique situation; in extreme cases paint might prevent the bearing from even being mounted, or could adversely affect the bearings radial clearance if it can.

On the other hand, how can you really ensure adequate coverage and that chipping/ cracking won’t occur around an opening, unless you actually overspray a small part of it?  An interesting dilemma and an age old problem involving two extremes, and one that coating and manufacturing engineers address all the time! So, I planned on dealing with the affects of paint ahead of time, simply because it should be expected. A Tip: I discussed removing excess paint with Calfish and he suggested that Acetone or other similar solvents not be used to remove any paint or paint residue near/in screw holes, etc.

A small bit of paint needed to be removed from the inside wall of
the bearing socket. The paint runs between the arrow tips.

When I got the parts back I checked them for paint that had to be removed before reassembling the reel.  Calfish did a great job of taping and controlling excess overspray, so there wasn’t much I had to do in that regard. Thanks Calfish for making my project so much easier:

• The previous picture shows a small amount of extra paint between the arrow tips, on the inside wall of the drive shaft outer bearing socket. It obviously affected installing the bearing and was relatively thick. So, I lightly scraped it off the wall with a dull knife tip, blew the chips out with a little compressed air and wiped the socket out with a q-tip dampened in a little water.  A Note: The rest of the paint on the front of the bearing socket should not be removed; it has no affect on alignment, the bearing or other components, and is not visible when the reel is reassembled.

• The bottom red arrow in the picture below shows the hole where the level wind guard mounts in the palm plate side of frame.  The paint was just a little too thick on the inside edge to allow the guard to pass through the hole.  So I wrapped a small strip of 600 Wet and Dry sand paper around a ¼” dowel and lightly removed a small amount of paint on the inside edge – just enough to allow the guard to pass through. I don’t think it took more than a half-dozen light strokes with the paper to get what I needed.

• The remaining arrows in the picture below show threaded holes in the frame for the handle plate, level wind stabilizing bar, etc. When I checked them with the screw that goes in each hole, I found two that needed to be cleared.  I used a very small pick to carefully remove paint in the threads, then blew the holes with compressed air and rinsed them out with fresh water.  I also found that the threaded hole for the palm plate locking screw had a little paint in the threads that also needed to be removed. So, I used the same method to clean up that hole. I finished by running a spare palm plate locking screw coated with a very thin film of oil in-and-out several times, to ensure travel was smooth and not impeded (see the previous picture).

Frame openings where paint might affect reassembly. Most are
threaded holes for plates and the level wind stabilizer bar.

I really didn’t have any surprises while reassembling the reel and everything went together the way I expected.  I did put a very-light film of grease on the threads of screws that tighten in the frame; something that I typically do anyway during an annual clean/inspect to preclude fretting.  You might want to consider doing the same after having a frame painted, but there’s no need to get carried away with the grease when you do it.

Level Wind Upgrade

Stock bushing shown on Pixy level wind worm (bottom),
has been replaced with a small collar and bearing (top).

The Daiwa level wind upgrade has been around for several years now and I automatically do it on a new reel when required.  I recently touched on it, about half-way through my Level Wind Fundamentals blog.

Some Daiwa low profile reels have a bushing under the level wind gear as shown in the bottom of the previous picture, and it’s possible to replace the bushing with a 4×8x2.5 mm bearing and a 5×6x2 mm collar (top of the picture).  You’ll need ball bearing (part 39) F05-5601 from the TD-Z103H/105H and worm shaft collar (part 40) G01-0701 from the TD-Z 103, to complete the modification and improve level wind performance.

However, in the case of my Pixy project, I recognized that the new collar dimensions could be affected by the painting.  Simply put, the added thickness of the new paint on the frame would likely require that I customize the collar under the level wind gear. So I decided to modify the original stock Pixy bushing to make it work, and would adjust its thickness for precise fit.  A Note: Little did I know at the time, that Daiwa US didn’t have any collars in stock, so that was probably a good choice anyway! An Aside: Unfortunately a lot of forum members are still looking for collars and have level wind upgrades on hold. Oh By The Way: I’ve never had a problem getting a replacement bushing collar from Daiwa, like the one found in a stock Sol, Fuego, Viento, Pixy, etc.  For instance, worm shaft holder (part 40) G41-7801 from a Sol never seems to be out of stock when I’ve ordered them. So, the information in the next couple of paragraphs may be an option…

Making Your Own Collar

Most of the 4x8mm end of the stock Pixy bushing collar needs to be removed to make the new collar. The good news is that the material is not that hard or brittle, and is very easy to work.

I’ve cut them almost all the way down (~2.5mm), with a razor-sharp contractor’s knife and even a Dremel wheel in the past, and filed them the rest of the way to square them up and get the correct thickness.  DR on the forum has even used a belt sander to sand them down, and he’s made a jig to hold them while doing it. I even recall one forum member who filed the whole thing down to make a new collar! So, there are several ways to do it.

You can square and finish them up to the correct thickness with a piece of 600# Wet and Dry sandpaper, fine file, or even an Emory board borrowed for your significant other.  A replacement collar from Daiwa is 2mm thick, but you can even leave it .1 or .2 mm longer for a custom fit – to remove the last bit of axial play from the worm gear as the pinion switches tapers.

A Test: In the case of my Pixy Project, the exact thickness of the collar ended up being 1.89mm, a little smaller than the standard 2mm because of the paint. It only required 42 passes on a sheet of 400 and 6 passes on a sheet of 600 Wet and Dry to make make the new collar — and took all of 3-1/2 minutes to do it (including the 2 checks with the level wind worm and bearing in the frame)! So stop waiting for Daiwa to get them back in stock and make your own — chances are you’ll spend 10x that long on the phone ordering one.

Tuning a New IZE Handle

One of the first things I did was to fine-tune the new IZE 80mm carbon handle that I got from Plat.  The knobs I used were from a brand new  TD-Advantage-153HSTA. Unfortunately, I didn’t like the fit when you mounted them with the usual washer(s) beneath the bottom bearing on each post.  One washer was not thick enough, and the ~.13mm axial slop in the knob resulted in a noticeable click when you cranked a reel. Yet 2 washers were too thick, and the knob would bind depending on how far you tightened the knob screw.  So I sanded one of the washers under each knob to achieve just the right fit, using 600 then and 1200 Wet and Dry paper.  I lubricated all knob bearings with Xtreme Reel+, a dry lubricant that I’m testing again this season.

A Big Tip: If you are faced with the same situation, resist the urge to reduce the length of the handle post in an attempt to get a better fit with your knobs.  Not only will you kill the resale value of the handle, it can create other problems down the road. For instance, you probably won’t be able to use it with any other type of knobs, and the debris that gets inside the post is almost impossible to remove and might cause a knob screw to seize!

Polishing and Tuning

I also did a little polishing and tuning on a few key parts. Something I’ve done on all of my low profile Daiwas now. I’ll even do it on a new reel, once I’ve checked it out. It feels so good afterward!

You can use my Polishing the Sol article to improve the way the reel disengages/reengages, provide a little better spool tension adjustment, and even reduce some spool noise that might otherwise occur while casting or retrieving.

A Tip: There’s no need to get carried away with the polishing!

Pixy Drag Kit Mod

Background

The stock Pixy has a drag stack that consists of a heavy top key washer, thick composite friction washer and an eared stainless steel washer that fits in the bottom of the drive gear. When new, the stock drag delivers about 3 to 4# of break-away pull, but running pull can be up to 1# less (especially after use).  In addition, should the stack get contaminated with oil, grease or water; the running pull can become erratic and the stack may even stutter, and/or break-away pull can become non-repeatable from pull-to-pull.  You’ll find more information about break-away and running drag in my previous Reel Drag Basics blog.

About 4 years ago, some TackleTour forum members began testing various Pixy drag upgrades using multiple Carbontex and metal drag washers.  If you are curious, you can find posts about them in the Maintenance Section of the old TackleTour forum; just go there and use “Pixy drag” for search terms. However, you can find a summary of the designs in the Sticky Post at the top of the forum. Most of the drag mods were somewhat complicated; requiring parts from other reels, specific reel measurements and even cutting a new drive shaft collar. However, they worked very well and eliminated the previously described problems.

Smoothdrag.com began supplying a drag kit that includes polished stainless steel and Carbontex washers that drop right into the Pixy.  Everything you need to do a drag upgrade is included in the kit, except maybe a little Cal’s Grease (I’ll get to it in a few paragraphs). A Pixy drag upgrade became so much simpler and easier after that!

Details

I get a lot of PM’s and email from Pixy owners who are interested in a Pixy drag upgrade or have questions about the smoothdrag.com kit. It’s also a common topic in the Maintenance Section of the forum. So, I thought I’d provide a little more detail about it, since I used the kit for my custom Pixzilla – and suggest you do the same.  Thanks Dawn!

A Note and Tip: Many reel techs will also install the kit when they work on your reel, it has become that popular! Most can do it during an annual clean and inspect -- Hint, hint!

When you use the kit you will still need to use the stock eared washer that fits in the bottom of the drive gear. However, you won’t use the stock top key washer and Teflon composite washer shown above.

Smoothdrag.com Pixy Drag Kit showing the new configuration.

When you get the kit you’ll notice that there are different polished metal washers and Carbontex washers, they will need to be installed in a specific order to complete the modification.  The previous picture shows the correct arrangement, starting from the drive gear and working upward:

• The stock ear washer that was in the Pixy, gets re-used,
• One of the new larger i.d. Carbontex washers goes above it,
• One of the new metal key washers goes above that,
• The other new larger i.d. Carbontex washers goes above that,
• The new eared metal key washer goes about that,
• The new smaller i.d. Carbontex washer goes above that, and
• The other new key washer goes on top of the stack, directly under the drive shaft collar.

You’ll want to clean the new metal and Carbontex washers before you install them, to remove any residue, lubricant, etc.  I suggest using a little Lighter Fluid (Naphtha), in a sealed glass jar to do the cleaning. Just drop them in ~1/4” of the fluid and put the lid on the jar. Periodically swirl them and let them soak for a total of 10 minutes or so, to loosen and lift carbon residue from the woven fiber washers.

A Safety Note: Be sure to exercise appropriate precautions for handling and using a solvent (adequate ventilation, fire hazard, no sparks  or open flame in the area, etc.). You’ll find more on safety precautions in my Tool Time blog.

A Tip: You can clean the washers the same during the annual clean/inspect at the end of the season. However, it might take a little longer, especially if you’ve used drag grease on the washers.

Remove the washers and allow them to dry after cleaning. I like to lay them out on a clean lint-free terry cloth towel to dry in the air.  A Tip: The solvent on the Carbontex washers may appear to evaporate sooner than on the metal washers. Unfortunately, the weave inside the washer can still hold a lot of solvent in it. So don’t get in too big a hurry applying drag grease on them; if you intend to use drag grease on your Carbontex washers. [You’ll work drag grease into the fiber, and any solvent still within the fiber can immediately break it down. YIKES!]

Drag Grease

“To use drag grease or not to use drag grease?” a question I get a lot on the forum. I prefer to use it because break-away drag seems to be closer to running drag and pull tends to be more consistent from pull to pull. In addition, the drag doesn’t seem to be nearly affected by “a good dunking” (yes accidents do occasionally happen),  or a major “gully washer.” If you are a salt water anger or fish in brackish water the grease might help mitigate fouling of the stack.

On the other hand, top-end drag may be slightly less with drag grease (maybe ¼# or so, depending on the reel), and there is a little initial cost to get the grease.

So, some prefer the advantages of drag grease (called a wet drag), and others prefer to run them dry (called a dry drag). In the end, the choice is entirely yours.

Drag grease is different than the other grease used in a reel, although it still contains filler and lubricants:

• The filler holds and disperses the lubricant like in conventional reel grease. However, drag grease filler doesn’t break down until very high temperature, when compared to other grease fillers. In addition, the filler tends to insulate and protect lubricant molecules more than other fillers, from the heat developed by friction.
• The most important part of the lubricant consists of macro-molecules [or micro-particles] of a PTFE (Teflon). The macro-molecules are extremely long, chemically neutral and very strong – they will not breakdown or be penetrated like film lubricant molecules. In addition, the molecules form layers which move against each other, so shear becomes more directly related to the compression force on them (a very desirable characteristic for a drag brake).
• The rest of the lubricant typically contains a synthetic oil for carrying the PTFE molecules. It also often includes anti-oxidants, protectants and anti-coagulants; which improve the stability of the filler, and helps disperse and replenish PTFE molecules as they expend.

A Note: Strange things can happen if drag grease gets mixed with conventional reel grease and exposed to the conditions under the handle plate. Simply put, the results are unpredictable; it can glob like the curds in cottage cheese, can turn the surface of metals black, and even affect the ability of the conventional grease to adhere on gear teeth.  If fresh water or saltwater gets thrown in with the mix, it can even turn dry and crusty when things finally dry out, or may retain moisture so algae will grow on/in the mix. Lastly, it may just do nothing but turn a little different color. Yep, that sounds like unpredictable….

Drag Grease Summary: So, the way the Teflon lubricant molecules shear in layers, how they behave under compression and the characteristics of the filler are what really distinguish drag grease from conventional reel grease.  A Tip: I don’t necessarily recommend trying to use conventional reel grease in lieu of drag grease in a drag stack. It usually doesn’t last nearly as long and the drag stack can get sticky and inconsistent during use.  Just my take after trying it a couple times; they were an emergency, honest!

A Side Note: The processes involved with PTFE types of solid lubricants and woven carbon fiber are very complicated, and I’ve taken the liberty of being brief.

Cal’s Grease, Shimano drag grease (ACE grease) and a few others can be used on your Carbontex washers (or other wet drag washers).  I prefer Cal’s because it’s a little cheaper and easier to obtain, but have found that they all generally perform about the same.  The color and consistency of Cal’s reminds me of smooth peanut butter; you can get it from smoothdrag.com and it comes in a 1 oz. or 1# container. [A 1 oz container will last most anglers a lifetime!]

Once the washers are dry after cleaning, I just work a small dab of Cal’s Grease into the surface with a finger and thumb. I like to ensure the grease actually gets inside the weave on both sides of the fiber because performance seems to last longer – but there is no need to get carried away with the grease. More is not necessarily better …read on!

Excess grease will get compressed out of the stack and can splatter under the handle plate, find its way to the teeth on the drive gear and mix with other grease (BAD!), etc.  So, I typically squeeze the washer between my finger and thumb and rotate it to remove excess grease.

A Tip: A good rule of thumb for a bass reel is to only leave enough grease on the washers; so that if you touch them, you leave a finger print on them. (See the previous picture.) A Note: If you do decide to go with a lot more drag grease, make sure you know there won’t be undesired results should it find its way to the other grease in the reel. Some anglers might actually do this, to mitigate the effects of saltwater intrusion on the stack.

+R Tuned Pixy Spool

Background

I briefly mentioned the possibility of a +R tuned Pixy spool, toward the end of my Inside The Daiwa Spool blog back in November.  That’s about the time that I started planning my Pixy project, so it was a teaser for what was to come. However, I seriously thought about not even posting anything about it in this blog, figuring there just wasn’t a lot of interest. However, I admit you need to be a hard-core spool modder to want to go this route, and maybe it’s a bit much for most or involves more risk than they want to assume.

I’ve been running a couple TD-X’s and S’s without any braking components on the spool for a few years now, primarily using my thumb to control overrun.  I still have them; just don’t use them as much anymore, because I don’t cast/pitch/flip the heavier stuff that often.

I also learned long ago, that trying to do the same with very light presentations like a Zoom Lil-Crit, just won’t work – even with the lightest of spools like the Pixy and my Presso rod. There just isn’t enough momentum from the lure and spool to handle much feathering on the spool, and when you do, things get extremely critical. [A Confession: O.K. I admit it, my thumb just isn’t nimble enough to pitch a 1/8 oz piece of popcorn tied onto the end of my line, while only using my thumb to control overrun!  Whew, I feel a lot better now that that’s out in the open.] When you try, distance and accuracy are all over the spectrum, overrun is just too hard to control, and any wind turns a bad situation into “worser-than-worse.”

So it didn’t take me long to realize that I had reached the point where man and his “well trained thumb” could no longer perform as well or as quickly as machine…. I would need a little bit of variable magnetic braking for my latest Pixy project!

You can go back and review my earlier blogs for more insight:

• Exploring Magnetic Brakes
• Magging for Modders
• Adjustable Magnetic Braking
• Backlash, Magnetic Braking and Spool Tension

Braking Mod

Disassembled TD-Z +R spool braking components (left),
and stock Pixy braking components (right).

It’s possible to swap the +R tuned Magforce V braking components from another spool, over to the Pixy spool for improved pitching performance.  In fact, there are other changes you can make to +R components to fine-tune the spool braking response even more – if that’s what you want to do. (Maybe I’ll get into them someday.) I decided to use most of the braking components from a TD-Z +R spool. An Aside: Yes, you’ve seen this spool before in a couple of my previous blogs!

I already covered how to remove and reinstall Daiwa Magforce V and Z braking components in my Inside the Daiwa Spool blog. You can use the process, tools and tips from the blog; just be careful and pay attention to what you are doing, since you can damage a spool in the process!

To make a long story short, you’ll want to use the +R inductor and tabs, but the stock Pixy braking spring. A Note: It’s hard to make out in the previous picture; but the Pixy spring is a little longer, yet it doesn’t take quite as much compression force to compress it and the compression rate is not the same as the +R spring. So, you’ll just have to take my word for it; you’ll get a little bit better +R performance for the lighter presentations, with the longer spring. An Aside: Again, maybe I’ll blog about this sometime later.

+R modified Pixy spool (left) and stock Pixy spool (right). Notice
the difference in inductors, and how the stock inductor fits into the magnets a bit further, when compared to the +R.

It’s easy to see the difference between the +R inductor and the stock Pixy inductor in the previous picture.  But also note how much further the stock inductor sticks into the braking magnets at spool start-up. (Use the collar on the left spool shaft to see the ~.8mm difference on the right.) Less braking would occur at spool start-up with the +R spool for both reasons. Remember that braking torque increases when more of the inductor is exposed to magnetic lines of force and the closer the inductor is to the magnets? See my Exploring Magnetic Brakes blog for more information.

Trivia: The braking tabs also have a little different mass and length; so the effect from different momentum and distance they travel, will also affect the rate at which braking is applied as the spool accelerates and decelerates.  Sound complicated? Trust me it is….

I actually went through a couple different iterations to get the exact braking response I was looking for with my Lil-Crits. I tested braking response after each change by making numerous pitches and casts, and even did a some bench testing.  You may have seen this already, since I posted it on the forum; Prototyping Tuned Pixy Spool. But here’s a video of a Magforce V braking system in action, the red light on the bottom of the spool is from a laser tachometer. It’s one of the tools I use to collect data when prototyping a spool. Notice how the braking inductor responds with varying spool speed – similar to what would occur during a cast.

By the Way: In case you were going to ask; no, you can not put a Magforce Z braking system into a Pixy spool. You need to stay with Magforce V because the tabs run on the side of the tapered spool and there isn’t enough room.

Wrap-Up

I wrapped things up by dropping a set of higher precision spool bearings into the reel. I’ll have more about them later… and that’s all I’m saying for now! But as far as casting and pitching crits, I’ll just say SWEET!!!

So there you have it… my winter +R Tuned Pixy Project.  Hopefully you’ll find the information useful, much of it will apply to other reel models!

It was a good project for fighting off cabin fever, but now that it’s done I’m itching to get it on the water!

Like Always: I’m not associated with anyone or any products mentioned in this blog.

-dModder

I’d say there’s a lot of interest in Boca Orange Seal bearings right now, based on the PM’s I get on TackleTour.  I can’t really say if it’s “winter doldrums”, a sudden desire to eek’ out a little better casting performance or even an influx of members wanting to maintain their reels. But hardly a day goes by when I don’t get a couple requests for info on Orange Seals and how to prepare them for installation.

So, let’s spend a little time getting a set of Orange Seals, and prep them for a spool bearing upgrade.  I’ll start with a little background information and some of the basics, and will eventually get into the “hands-on” side of things.

By the way, I’ve used a little different format for this blog. I’ve arranged things as answers to the various questions I’ve received.

But before we get too far along, let me simply say that I’ve found Orange Seals to be the “real deal.” Every set that I’ve dropped in a stock reel has provided a significant improvement in casting performance – and I’ve even enjoyed a noticeable improvement in previously upgraded reels!  Casting/pitching the same distance with less effort (for improved accuracy and less fatigue), or even better distance typically results, depending on how I adjust a reel.  O.K., I admit I’m a “performance fanatic” – always trying to eek’ everything I can from a reel. But that may not be your case, so read on….

Background

What’s a reel bearing anyway and what’s a spool bearing?

Bearings are used at specific locations in a reel, to facilitate rotation of gears, shafts, knobs, etc. in order to reduce frictional loss.  They carry the loads presented while making a cast or when fighting a fish, and maintain the precision built into the frame and components.  They generally make the reel feel smoother while cranking and allow you to cast further; improving the efficiency of both processes. It’s no wonder that the bearings found in our reels are technically called anti-friction rolling bearings, because that’s exactly what they were intended for.

Manufacturers will often specify the number of bearings that a reel has in their sales literature.  Right, wrong or indifferent; that’s just what they do.

Sometimes you’ll see “11 ball bearings + 1 r. b.”, which are short for 11 ball-type bearings and 1 one-way rolling clutch bearing (e.g. anti-reverse bearing). In this case, they are referring to the number of actual bearings that the reel has – not the number of individual balls that are in any of the bearings. An Aside: I get this question a lot from those just getting into fishing or maintaining their reels.  It’s easy to forget that there are new anglers joining the forum all the time, and they may not be familiar with hardware, technical jargon or abbreviations. Trivia: The bearing shown in the previous picture is a stock Daiwa spool bearing. It just so happens to have 8 individual balls inside, you’ll see it again a little later in the blog.  The stock bearing that Daiwa includes on the other side of the spool is a little smaller and has 9 individual balls – none of which will matter to a angler.

Daiwa Alphas-R Spool Bearings – new Orange Seals!

Spool bearings are the bearings that rotate while making a cast.  Many recent low profile reels have one bearing on each end of a spool shaft to support the spool, and other components in the reel are disengaged from the spool for a cast (e.g. the spool is the only thing that turns).  Other reels may also have a very long shaft that requires more support, or a gear or other part of the reel that will rotate with the spool during a cast; so there could be three spool bearings in this case.  Many TackleTour forum members will tell you what bearings would need to be swapped if you are thinking about an upgrade; you’ll just need to tell them what model reel you have in the Maintenance Section of the forum.

Dissected stock Steez spool bearing. (Do not try this,
you will ruin the bearing while pressing it apart!)

Our reel bearings are actually quite remarkable. There are probably a dozen or more individual components inside that must work together to reduce friction, while also maintaining precise alignment of components.  In addition, they must be of an exact size to mate with other parts, and the material has to be selected to maximize their life when exposed to a fishing environment.

Typical stock reel bearing components (shielded bearing).

Balls fit between an inner race and an outer race, and carry the loads from gears, the spool, knobs, and even the level wind on some reels.  The outer race mounts into a socket within the reel frame, so the load carried by the balls ultimately gets transferred to the frame.  The balls will roll with rotation of a race, reducing kinetic friction and energy lost in the process; they are kept evenly distributed around the races with a cage. A shield or seal will often be installed on the sides of a bearing to reduce the introduction of foreign debris and to help retain lubricant.

Shielded reel bearing showing balls and cage.

You’ll find more information on reel bearings, internal components and even how they are made in the Reel Bearings 101 Article found in the TackleTour Review Archives.

Do I have to upgrade spool bearings?

Absolutely not, but read on! An Aside: I get this question from a lot of new bait cast owners and forum members, who’ve read posts about improved performance after upgrading bearings. As you’ll see, it doesn’t always have a straight-forward answer. A Note: I’m not rambling in the following response; only trying to cover the various aspects of the questions I’ve received about spool bearing upgrades.  It comes in a lot of different flavors, I guess.

Daiwa Advantage-153HSTLA stock spool bearings.

Most anglers are probably more than happy with their stock spool bearings and don’t have a need or desire to upgrade them. I’ll even venture to say that some who upgrade their bearings don’t ever realize any performance improvement afterward; because they don’t know how to re-adjust their reels or don’t want to mess with it, or maybe did the upgrade for other reasons like reduced fouling or only to replace a set of worn stock bearings.  Lastly, some anglers don’t ever clean or re-lubricate their spool bearings even when they screech mercilessly during a cast and beg for attention, because casting performance is not a concern or important! So in the end, only a small and select number of anglers pursue spool bearing upgrades – and a lot of them seem to frequent TackleTour and TackleTog!

Facts O’ Life: Let’s face it, the way we use and maintain our reels, the value we place on them, and our personal preference or needs may influence one’s decision on upgrading bearings. When you factor in the amount of time, money, competing responsibilities, experience and other personal factors; it’s no wonder that one angler’s pursuits can be significantly different from another.

That’s not surprising when you think about it; cars, boats, rods, other tackle, homes, clothes, tools, etc. run from one extreme to the other. In the end, you are the only one who will be able to justify a bearing upgrade after considering your own situation.  No one should care if you upgrade your spool bearings or not – it only matters to you, and that’s the way it should be!

But if you only want a little better casting performance I suggest you first clean your stock spool bearings and re-lubricate them with lighter spool oil.  I suspect many anglers would be pleasantly surprised with the results, and have no desire to pursue an upgrade afterward. There’s more information about what you’ll need in the TOOL TIME! and Adding Oil to Your Spool Bearings blogs.

Once you’ve cleaned/re-lubricated your stock spool bearings and used the reel, you’ll be in a better position to decide whether you still want to upgrade your bearings. You’ll have a better feel for what is lacking in casting performance and a closer perspective on where you want to go (e.g. expectations?).  If nothing else, you’ll at least have a good point of reference that you can compare performance to, after making the upgrade!

What are Orange Seal bearings anyway?

Orange Seals are ABEC 7 ceramic-hybrid bearings that are equipped with seals.  Uhhhh, … say what?!? O.K., I admit there’s a lot of info packed into that sentence that needs to be explained… so let’s break it down.  (It won’t take long before you start using modder lingo!)

“ABEC 7” refers to a U.S. standard developed by the Angular Bearing Engineering Committee (ABEC), as a way to compare the manufacturing precision of bearings.  Bearings are rated in odd numbers from 1 to 9, the greater the number the higher the manufactured precision of the bearing. Bearings manufactured within tighter tolerances provide better accuracy for rotation and contribute to higher speed rotation (when all things are considered equal). However, the ABEC rating does not address other important bearing characteristics; like ball precision, the smoothness and finish of contact surfaces, materials the bearing is made from, and even the quality of the material.  [Trivia: Before the ABEC standard was developed, engineers had a very difficult time ensuring bearings for a specific design actually got into an end product.  Manufacturers, suppliers, purchasers, contract administrators, etc. were all over the precision scale, as they interpreted design specs into actual bearings used!]

So an ABEC rating (or similar international rating), only refers to bearing accuracy and precision, nothing more.  Bearings not conforming to at least ABEC 1 are not considered precision bearings, and it is not uncommon to find them in low-end reels as well. You’ll find more information on ABEC in my Reel Bearings 101 article.

“Ceramic-hybrid” refers to the material the bearing is actually made from. In the case of Orange Seals, the balls are made from ceramic and the other components like races and cage are made from alloy 440C stainless steel.

Almost all reel manufacturers today use bearings that are totally made from stainless steel alloys (including the balls; referred to as a stainless steel bearing), but that may not be the case for some very low-end reels.  You’ll find more information on ceramic-hybrid bearings, ceramic material, balls and advantages/disadvantages of them in my Reel Bearings 201 Article.

A Special Note: There is another type of bearing called a ceramic bearing (like shown in the picture to the left) – where the balls and races are made from ceramic material. They were initially intended for corrosive applications, extremely high temperature environments or in food handling equipment.  The prices of full-ceramic bearings are coming down at this time, but are still not always available in the sizes needed for spool bearings. In addition, they aren’t always available in higher than ABEC 3 or 5 ratings; so some might consider them a ‘down grade’ if they switched to them.

A Note: I only point this out since some anglers get confused between a ceramic and a ceramic-hybrid bearing when reading about bearings on a forum.  I always try to refer to the former case as a “full-ceramic” to eliminate any confusion – and use “ceramic-hybrid” for the later case.  Orange Seals are a ceramic-hybrid bearing!

Orange Seals also have seals on the side of the bearing, to mitigate fouling and loss of lubricant.  Seals cover the exposed and moving parts inside the bearing to reduce the potential for damage and wear.  An Aside: Shields may also be installed on a bearing to reduce the potential for fouling and limit the loss of lubricant.  In fact, most reels are usually equipped with stock bearings that have shields (but a few manufacturers are starting to use “open” bearings).  In addition, ZPI provides their aftermarket spool bearings without shields or seal; most anglers will typically refer to them as ‘open’, ‘un-shielded’ or ‘shieldless’ bearings.

Different miniature spool bearings; Orange Seal (left), shielded TG ceramic-hybrid (center) and open Orange Seal (right).

Orange Seals come with rubber seals which can be removed/re-installed for maintenance, or even left off the bearing if you want to run them open. (I’ll have more on this later in the blog.)  A Note: The seals on other sealed bearings might be made from nylon, plastic, rubber or another material.  They may or may not be made so they can be removed and reinstalled!  Another Note: Shielded bearings may or may not have shields that can be removed and reinstalled.  I only point this out because the question comes up a lot. (I don’t usually remove a shield anyway, when I clean and re-lubricate my shielded bearings.) You’ll find more information on this in the Bearings 201 article.

So Let’s Summarize: Orange Seals are a very high precision bearing that work exceptionally well for spool bearings.  They contain very uniform and extremely hard ceramic balls for fast start-up and reduced friction. The races are made from one of the hardest stainless steel alloys available, and are designed and finely finished for reduced wear.

Where can I get Orange Seals?

I probably get this question at least 2 or 3 times a week, primarily from anglers who have never upgraded bearings before and/or are considering getting Orange Seals for the first time.  I suspect it actually reflects a bit of “you don’t know what you don’t know” when ordering them, so is one of the things I’ll address in this blog.

An Aside: Let me start off by saying that many reel technicians/repair shops can supply the correct Orange Seals for your reel, so you may just want to let them to do an upgrade for you – just give them a call or email them to get started.  They typically have the right tools, skills and experience in upgrading spool bearings, and will ensure they are performing properly when installed. There’s nothing wrong with this approach, especially if you don’t have the time, inclination or skills at the bench.  Doing an upgrade does involve some risk in damaging a spool; you’ll find more information in the Upgrading Daiwa Spool Bearings blog.

You can also get Orange Seals from many reel repair and supply websites (more and more are starting to carry them all the time), or directly from Boca Bearings. A phone number is typically listed on a site so you can speak with a technician or representative, and can often place an order at the same time. Lastly, the Boca website has a “Live Help” desk that is open during normal business hours – I found it easy to use and a quick way to get a question answered.

If you want to make the upgrade on your own you might want to order your bearings directly from the Boca website. The quickest way I’ve found to get to them is through the Reel Manufacturer List.

Once you get to the page, just select the manufacturer of your reel, and scroll through the pages to get to your reel model.  A Note: A person who’s never ordered bearings from an industrial supplier might feel a bit overwhelmed the first time they see the large number of bearings that Boca offers.  Just remember, Boca is a “bearing house” – an industrial, hobby and recreational bearing supplier, and they have an extensive inventory.  In case of reels, they can supply bearings for handles, spool upgrades, or even the entire reel in the kits they offer.  In addition, they supply various types and qualities of bearings; so you’ll see shielded/sealed, different ABEC ratings and even lubricated/non-lubricated bearings in the listings. A Tip: Look for the words Spool or Spool/Side Plate in the Type category, and then look for Orange Seal in the description to find the bearings for your spool upgrade.  If you want even more information you can click on the kit Part #, and you’ll see a page that has a detailed description, technical data about the individual bearings that are included in the kit, and other info. (After you’ve done it a few times you’ll be able to navigate through the listing like a pro.) Another Tip: Orange Seals are supplied dry (which means without lubrication), so the Part # should end with “LD”. I look for this right before selecting my Orange Seals, as a second check to ensure I’ve made the right choice.

My bearings arrived, so now what?

Let me start off by saying that I always clean new bearings, even if they were supposed to be dry and regardless of where they came from. Some bearings might have a dry-spray film or a light preservative put on them during final cleaning, to protect them during packaging, long-term storage and shipping.  Unfortunately, the coatings may not be compatible with the additives or adherents in some reel oils, and a manufacturer might still even consider them to be “dry”, because they didn’t use an actual oil or grease. Besides, there is no accepted international standard for what “dry” technically means and manufacturing processes do differ.

So I’ve always cleaned my new ZPI, TG, VXB, NTN, Timken, NSK, Boca, etc. and stock replacement bearings before using them.  A Note: I’m not ranting or “dinging” any specific bearing manufacturer or supplier; just doing what I can to control a variable that might cause a problem.  In many industries this is call a “best practice” or “standard industry practice.”

A Tip: Do yourself a favor and get into the habit – it will at least eliminate a doubt about cleanliness (and maybe lubrication), should you have problems after installing them! An Aside: I’m never really surprised to see a faint streak or plume of film coming out of a new “dry” bearing the first time I clean it. I’d say it happens about 25% of the time; not specific to any brand, supplier or bearing type.  A Thought: If you’ve never cleaned your bearings before using them the first time, that’s great. But I wonder how long your luck will last?

Remove seal after you get part of it out of the race; rotate the needle or tool flat across the face of the bearing.  Use the edge of the center race for support so you don’t contact anything inside.

To clean a set of Orange Seals I suggest you remove the seals on each side of the bearing (especially if you intend to use a solvent). They are just pressed into a groove in the outer race.  Unfortunately, if your eyesight is as bad as mine, it can take a little effort and dexterity.  So that’s why I use a head-worn magnifier.

Use the tip of a needle or Xacto knife on the side of the center race, to just barely catch the inside of the seal and lift it up — try not to damage the seal. A Note: Exercise caution when you put the needle/knife blade on the side of the seal, you don’t want to contact any bearing components inside the bearing. Once you have the seal starting to come out, position the needle flat across the side of the bearing and slide it around the circumference of the seal to remove it (see the previous picture). A Tip: You can use the face of the center race to support the needle as you work it around the seal, this will ensure you don’t contact any bearing components inside.  Repeat the process for the other seal.  A Note: Describing how to remove a seal is a harder than it actually is, but once you’ve done it a couple times it will get easier!

Never clean an Orange Seal with a solvent when the seals are installed. I’ve found that even Naphtha can have a permanent affect on the seal; other solvents can even be worse and you may not be able to re-use the seals. So I always remove them.

You can clean your new bearings in a solvent like Naphtha, Acetone, spray brake cleaner, etc. Just exercise appropriate precautions for handling and using a solvent in this case.

Alternatively, you can use a cleaning solution like dilute Simple Green, Dawn concentrate dish detergent, etc.  Just make sure you liberally flush the bearings with fresh water to remove any trace cleaning solution.  In either case, you want to let the bearing dry before you lubricate them. You’ll find more information on solvents, safety precautions, cleaning solutions, etc. in the ToolTime Blog I previously mentioned.

If you have a certain method for cleaning your bearings that’s great; far be it from me to get you to change something that has been working well.  However, if you’ve never done it before, I suggest you use a small sealed jelly jar filled with ~¼” of Naphtha (lighter fluid):

• Allow the bearings to soak and periodically swirl them in the sealed jar,
• Every 5 minutes or so, remove the bearings and rotate them on a sharpened dowel or tweezers, to help scrub internal surfaces.  Just flick them with a fingertip as shown in the picture below, and
• Repeat the process until clean. (It usually won’t take more than 20 minutes or so, to ensure they are absolutely clean.)

You can lightly blow the bearings out with a can of computer keyboard compressed air or let them air-dry on their own. By the way, don’t necessarily spin the bearing with the air, just lightly blow out the residual liquid.  A Surprising Tip: You can blow the balls out of some bearings if the shields/seals are not be installed and you use too much air pressure! I’ve personally had this happen to a set of non-Boca ceramic-hybrids.

A Big Tip: I don’t suggest you use a hair dryer to dry out your bearings if you’ve been using a solvent – sparks from the brushes and the fumes in the area may not mix well!  No need to start-off the relationship with your new Orange Seals …in a Bad Romance!

While you have the seals removed I suggest you lubricate each bearing once it is dry. You’ll find more information in the Adding Oil to Your Spool Bearings blog, it’s filled with tips, techniques, a discussion about being consistent, etc.

A Note: You can run your Orange Seals without lubrication, but you’ll see increased race wear and more noise,  if you do.  The amount of wear will not only be dependent on overall use, but will also be affected by the spool speeds achieved during the cast, loads carried by the bearings while casting and cranking, and even the environment that the reel sees during storage and use.  However in my case, I don’t run them dry because the noise is very irritating!  …but the choice is entirely yours.

If you are going to run the bearings without seals, then you’re ready to swap the bearings. [I have more information on this further down the blog.] You’ll find tips, precautions, etc. for swapping your bearings in the Upgrading Daiwa Spool Bearings blog. Even though the blog is about Daiwa reels, the information will be useful for models from other manufacturers.

To reinstall a seal, rest it on the side of the bearing and gradually press it back into the outer race/center race. Try not to apply a lot of pressure when you do this, because you can move the seal too far – to the point that the inside part of the seal contacts the center race of the bearing, or the bottom of the seal contacts the cage beneath it.  If this occurs it can adversely affect bearing performance. A Tip: The seal will slide back into the side of the bearing and snap into the groove(s) on the races. But sometimes you may need to reposition it a little with the tip of your needle or Xacto knife, so the inside part of the seal is centered on the inner race and won’t make contact with it.

Repeat the process on the other seal and other bearing(s), and swap bearings. After the swap you’ll want to adjust your reel; spool tension and braking can be re-balanced to achieve better performance. There’s more information in the Backlash, Magnetic Braking and Spool Tension blog.

Do I run my Orange Seals with or without seals?

The decision to use your Orange Seals with or without the seals boils down to personal choice and preference, and a commitment.  Like a lot of things, there are trade-offs or compromise with each case.

A Note: I was not trying to be deliberately-vague, elusive or philosophical in that previous paragraph.  There are some important things you need to consider when faced with the question – and no one can do that for you. In the end the choice will be entirely yours.  So bear with me for a bit and I’ll try to explain some of the technical factors, implications and my experience with Orange Seals last season.

On one hand, the seals can have a minor influence on casting or pitching performance if you don’t get them installed correctly, should they get damaged/worn, etc. But even then, the performance is still significantly better than stock bearings and is of no real consequence with most lure weights and presentations.  However, you still might elect to run the bearings open to always achieve optimal performance and make maintenance a little easier.

On the other hand, seals are used on a bearing to mitigate fouling and to help retain lubricant, which will increase the lubrication and cleaning interval. However, the bearings are a little more difficult to re-lubricate and clean with seals — even though you probably wouldn’t need to do either nearly as often.

Here’s a few more thoughts and some insight that may help in your decision. I wrestled with the same question as I got my reels ready for the upcoming season:

1. It’s easy to get addicted to the uber performance from running open Orange Seals. Remember earlier in the blog when I wrote that I always try to squeeze out every bit of performance from a reel? Well I wasn’t kidding, …just my nature I guess. But I admit that this may not the be the case for others.
2. Although I initially removed the seals in reels that I used for lighter presentations, over the course of a season I slowly ended up removing the seals in all my “Orange Sealed reels.” Maybe I got lazy or even becoming more efficient — but it just got too easy adding oil and even cleaning bearings without fooling with seals. Reflecting on things, I probably cleaned my bearings more often that required, because it was so easy!  Hey, maybe it was self-fulfilling prophecy?
3. The water and environment that I fish really had little or no affect on the bearings — sure I needed to clean them a little more often, but that is expected with open bearings anyway. However, the conditions that a kayak, salt water  or shore angler fishes will be totally different. So, the environment you fish in should be considered.
4. In my case, there is little consequence if a set of bearings suddenly get fouled and need to be cleaned.  Although it never happened last season, if it did I’d just pull another rod/reel out of the locker and move on; dealing with it when I got back in. But that may not be the case for someone who doesn’t have back-up gear or a even a tournament angler who can’t afford to be without a reel.
5. I’m continually looking for problems or performance changes when I use my reels, and maintain and service them as soon as possible should they occur. This may not be the case for an angler who doesn’t have the time, experience or inclination to add oil and clean their open bearings a little more often. Yes, if you use open bearings, you are essentially making a commitment to service them more often than your shielded stock bearings.  Conversely, if you use the seals, you won’t need to service them nearly as often as your stock bearings.
   
6. I always have plenty of extra spool bearings on hand, and even take extra bearings, tools, etc. on a long trip. So, cost and availability are not an issue, but may be for others.
7. The way you store your reel when not in use should be considered. Let’s face it, there’s a big difference in storing an open reel in the bed of a pick-up truck, versus covered and protected in a dry boat locker.

I’ll be going into the coming season without seals on my Orange Sealed bearings. It may not be the best choice for everyone, …but was mine and I own it! An Aside: Based on what I’ve seen on TackleTour, my experience with using the Orange Seals wasn’t much different than many others.

Summary

I’ve got 20 pair of Orange Seals right now, and have them in about ½ of my reels. I typically let family and friends use some; the first time they try one upgraded with Orange Seals they’re usually shocked at how easily they cast.  In addition, all the reels I took on big trips last year were equipped with Orange Seals — they provided trouble-free performance despite heavy use!

Oust Met oil is my preferred lubricant, but I’ve also used TD-Z oil and a few others.  (If I didn’t have Oust I’d use  TD-Z oil – the lighter lubricants really do contribute to uber performance with ABEC 7 ceramic-hybrids.)

I’ve used Orange Seals during the past fishing season while pitching, all types of casting and flipping. I’ve routinely lubricated and cleaned them countless times, and have even tried a few different oils and dry lubricant to compare performance.  I’ve found that they do take a little use to finally “run-in” and eventually quiet down – but that is typical for just about any ceramic-hybrid bearing mounted in a light alloy reel frame.  I also suspect that most anglers probably wouldn’t even notice the difference anyway.  An Aside: Hmmm, but if you are having problems with lots of noise after an upgrade, maybe you didn’t clean the bearings before installing them? Sorry, …just wondering out loud.

Orange Seals are readily available and come in all sizes required for a spool bearing upgrade. The price is often much lower than comparable bearings; and if you watch the Boca website for a sale or check with other suppliers, you can even get them for a little less. You can run them with the supplied seals or open for “uber” performance. Last Thought and a Teaser: Boca has started to supply a shielded ABEC 7 ceramic-hybrid that uses the same races, cage and balls as the Orange Seals.  Watch this blog toward the end of the season….

Like Always: I’m not affiliated with a reel manufacturer, Boca Bearings or any supplier. In addition, I don’t use or benefit from any discount, reward or referral programs that may be offered.

-dModder

I’ve used grease in my bait caster frame bearings; as far back as I can remember. I initially packed them by hand when shields couldn’t be removed, and later removed a shield and filled them with grease when they could. Unfortunately, both methods can be agonizingly slow, frustrating and messy processes with miniature bearings! I eventually made my own greasers, so they could be filled with the shields still installed. However, I was never really happy with them; they seemed awkward to use, wasted grease and required at least two or three different versions to cover the bearing sizes for my reels. But I believed strongly in greasing my frame bearings, so I “made do” and muddled along …until I found “The Greaser”.

I stumbled upon “The Greaser” on a hobby website about 4 years ago; it was listed for greasing helicopter and other RC bearings.  I did some homework and got one, tried it out with my favorite reel grease, and have never looked back. It is quick, simple to use and does an excellent job in filling a wide-range of shielded bearings. I’ve somehow managed to collect 4 of them now!

I initially mentioned “The Greaser” in my Reel Bearings 201 Article.  I suspect there are a lot of Tackle Tour “greasers” out there, based on the PMs and email I’ve received since that time. There are also several posts in the Maintenance Section of the Tackle Tour forum about it. So, I’ll use a little blog space to provide an update, a lot more information, and a few tips based on my experience. If you’re a “greaser”, this blog is for you!

Background

A Definition: I’ve defined frame bearings in this blog, as those directly mounted on the reel frame itself.  So, spool or handle knob bearings (if your knobs have bearings), are not included in my definition of frame bearings.  However, pinion gear, level wind, drive shaft, drive gear and other bearings that don’t rotate during a cast would. [I’ll have more information on knob bearings later.]

There has been an age old debate between grease vs. oil for reel frame bearings, ever since the beginning of time. Just like a lot of things in life, there are upsides and downsides to each. Although I won’t get into much detail about the pros or cons of either in this blog (if you’re a “greaser” you’ve already made your decision and enjoy the advantages of grease) – I’ll just casually touch on them from a very high level.  Simply put, you use grease in your frame bearings or you use something else, and the choice is totally yours.

In many ways that’s one of the neat things about our hobby, we can do pretty much as we please when it comes to our equipment. Although many manufacturers grease frame bearings at the factory; that may or may not change due to personal preference, or specific needs and conditions encountered ‘on the water.’ It’s actually very similar to the rods, reels and line we select – and it’s great having options and choices!

The oil vs. grease topic comes up periodically on some forums, and members identify what they use in posts that ask for advice. Unfortunately, many responders seldom provide the basis for their choice, why they selected it, and details on their specific fishing situation – which can be a problem for someone in an entirely different situation, and who doesn’t know it. Just remember that “one size fit’s all” doesn’t necessarily apply to our reels, and even manufacturers don’t always know what exact conditions a reel will be used in. (So, maybe many manufacturers assume worse case, when they grease their frame bearings at the factory?)

Just Wondering Out Loud: It costs more to use greased bearings in a factory.  But with reel manufacturers trying to “eek” out every penny they can, you’d think they’d switch to oiled frame bearings.  Maybe they felt there would be fewer problems with greased bearings during the warranty period? What about later?

Some factors you may want to think about when it comes to grease vs. oil for your frame bearings include:

• The type of water your fish,
• The conditions you encounter while fishing,
• How often the reel is used,
• How the reel is stored when not in use,
• How and how often the reel is serviced, whether you do the service yourself or have someone else do it, and value you place on your reel.
• Characteristics of the lubricant that you use,
• Warranty requirements (if that is of concern),
• Personal preference and expectations, and
• Concern about bearing wear or effect of a bearing failure.

“The Greaser” ready for use.

The Reel Bearings 201 article provides more information about using grease vs. oil in bearings.  It also discusses potential problems like mixing lubricants or adding oil to a greased bearing, and how to clean your bearings. (By the way, the instant you add oil to a frame bearing, you’ve essentially made a commitment to service it much more often.) Maybe it won’t be as often as the oiled bearings on the spool, but it will be more often.

“The Greaser”

Precision RC Products manufactures “The Greaser” and it is sold on their website. You may also find it in a local RC hobby shop, or can use Google to search for it on the net.

“The Greaser” is actually made from 3 separate components:

1. The main body: The main body is made from 6061-T6 Aluminum Alloy and is ~2-1/4” dia. x 2-1/2” tall. It serves as a reservoir for new grease and the base for “The Greaser” when in use.
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   The body is finely finished and easy to wipe clean if required. It comfortably holds two 1 oz. tubes of Hot Sauce or Reel Butter grease – which is about right for greasing frame bearings in 35 to 45 reels. However, you don’t need to completely fill the reservoir to grease only a handful of bearings, but you will need to have at least .1 to .2 oz to initially fill the hole that runs through the plunger.
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   Trivia: 6061-T6 is the same alloy used in many automobile, aircraft and boat components. It is has good corrosion resistance, wear characteristics and weight-strength ratio. Many camera lens mounts, fishing reel gears and shafts, hydraulic fittings and boat engine components are made from that alloy.
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   The picture shows a reservoir partly filled with Reel Butter grease.
2. The plunger: The plunger is made from Delrin and is ~2″ dia. x 2″ tall.  It fits inside the body, and is used to compress the grease and hold the bearing while adding grease. A hole through the center of the plunger allows compressed grease to flow from the reservoir into the bearing.
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   The plunger has a funnel machined in its top to accommodate bearings with an outside diameter of ~5 mm to over 25 mm.  A groove is also machined near the top, so the plunger can be removed from the body when new grease needs to be added to the reservoir.  (The reservoir will be empty when the bottom of the groove gets at the top of the body, so you can track reservoir level as you grease your bearings.) Another groove near the bottom of the plunger accommodates a ~1/8” o-ring, which tightly seals the plunger to the body.
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   More Trivia: Delrin is made from acetal resin; it resists breakdown from most solvents and lubricants, and is non-porous and easy to clean with a dry rag.  It is also fairly durable, can be easily machined and has a low coefficient of friction. (It is often used as a bearing-replacement in corrosive environments where a metal roller or ball bearing would be impractical.)  Delrin or similar material is often used for bushings, spacers, level wind gears and yokes in bait cast reels.
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   The picture shows a plunger that has previously been used with Hot Sauce, Reel Butter and Cal’s Grease. If you want to switch to different grease, just remove the old grease from the reservoir (save it for later).  Then wipe the reservoir and plunger with a clean rag before filling it with the new grease, and clear the hole in the plunger with a q-tip.
3. The probe-cap: The probe is used to seal the inner race of the bearing, so grease forced from the hole in the plunger, flows into the small opening between the bearing shield and outside of the inner race. Grease fills the bearing and eventually expels through the other opening on the opposite side of the bearing. [Grease would bypass the bearing and flow out the center race instead of into the bearing, without the probe.]
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   The probe itself is made from 6061-T6 and the tapered tip is also made from Delrin.  The tip can seal bearings up to 15 mm inside diameter.
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   The cap fits snugly on the base; which protects the grease in the reservoir and plunger from picking up dirt and debris when not being used. A Note: I’ve had some Super Lube grease in one of my “Greasers” for a couple years now; and haven’t had any problems with cleanliness, breakdown or moisture. I periodically use it to grease the small bearings in my wife’s sewing machines, some power tools and other equipment in my workshop!

Using “The Greaser”

I’ve received a number or questions about “The Greaser”, ever since I wrote about it in my article.  In general, most wanted to know how grease actually gets into a shielded bearing and how to use it. You can refer to the diagram below, as I walk you through the steps:

1. Place the bearing on the bottom of the funnel in the plunger.
2. Put the tip of the probe in the center race of the bearing.
3. Press the plunger with one hand to get grease to flow from the reservoir, while also pressing the tip with the other hand to prevent grease from flowing out of the center race. A Note: Both should be pressed at the same time and with the same force – i.e. all in one motion.
4. Grease flows through the hole in the plunger to the bottom side of the bearing.
5. Grease enters the small opening on the bottom side of the bearing; between the shield and outside of the center race. (There is a picture showing the side of a bearing below.)
6. Grease fills the bearing.
7. When the bearing gets full, grease exits from the small opening on the top of the bearing; between the shield and outside of the center race.
8. The bearing is removed from the funnel and any excess grease on the outside of the bearing gets removed.
9. The process is repeated for the next bearing.

Diagram showing how the greaser fills a miniature bearing.

It really doesn’t take much time or effort to fill a bearing once you get proficient with “The Greaser”. I usually grease the frame bearings for a reel in a batch, after cleaning and checking them all for damage and wear. (It saves a little time doing it this way, since the bearings are ready to support reassembling the reel and you don’t have to continually switch back and forth between the reel frame and using “The Greaser”.)

I’ve never checked any of my reel bearings to determine exactly how full they were after being greased. I just haven’t felt the need to. Primarily because I can use my reels the entire 9 or 10 months of a fishing season without having to do anything to frame bearings, and there is still plenty of grease in them when I complete the winter clean/inspect!  Test In Progress: I’ve got one reel that sees moderate use during a season (~185 total reel hours in a season), and I haven’t done anything to the frame bearings for 3 seasons now.  I do touch-up the gears and other friction points at the end of a season; and visually check the bearings to see if they are still filled with grease, what condition the grease is in, cleanliness, etc. I won’t know if the reel can go for another season or not, until I check in December. However, it still performs like it always has over the past 3 years. [FYI: The TD-X frame bearings were greased with Hot Sauce in 2006 and the reel is only used in freshwater with large spinner baits. I keep it stored with a reel cover in a boat locker during the season and in my workshop closet during the winter. It's been dunked a few times; I just shake out the excess water and make sure it has had the opportunity to dry out on the boat deck, before putting it away. (I'd probably open the reel, dry it out and re-lube the frame bearings if they were oiled and the reel got dunked)]

The previous picture shows a bearing that had been filled with Hot Sauce Grease using “The Greaser”. If you look closely, you can see the grease in the small opening between the shield and center race, with a little extra on the shield. [Most of the excess grease had been scraped from the shield area on both sides of the bearing, inside the center race, and outside of the outer race.]  My Experience: After a season of use, I would expect to see a bit more grease at the opening between the center race and outside of the shield; it will get pushed out of the bearing during initial rotation — and any debris will stay outside the bearing (instead of getting inside), throughout the season!

Top of plunger (left) and bottom of plunger (right).

A Note: The Precision RC Products FAQ page discusses the possibility of using “The Greaser” to “push-out” old grease and debris, with new grease – without cleaning the bearings.  I’ve never tried it, since I always clean my bearings with a solvent to remove old grease/oil. I clean my bearings so I can check them for wear, proper rotation, damage, etc. and to ensure the new lubricant has the best opportunity to adhere.  The Bearings 301 Article found in the Tackle Tour Review Archive tells you how to check your bearings for wear, rotation and damage. By the way, I’d be interested in hearing if you use your “Greaser” to do this.

The amount of force you need to apply on the plunger (and center race of the bearing to seal it with the probe), is related to a few different factors:

• The apparent viscosity of the grease that you are using. Higher viscosity grease will require more force, when compared to lower viscosity grease.

• The temperature of the grease. Since viscosity is related to temperature, the colder the grease the more force that will be required. A Note: I typically keep my greasers in my workshop, which is kept at a fairly constant 75 to 80°F, and I’ve never had a problem. However, this might be a concern for someone who stores theirs in an unheated environment during the winter, and you may want to allow the grease to warm before using it.
• The size of the small opening between the outside of the shields and the center races of the bearing. I’ve never had a problem greasing stock or after-market shielded frame bearings. However, it might be a problem with some sealed bearings; especially in light of the previous two factors, seal design, and how they are held in place.  A Tip: Since most seals are relatively easy to remove and reinstall, it may be faster to just remove the seals before greasing, and to reinstall them afterward. I grease a lot of bearings using “The Greaser” that don’t have shields, and it works great.

I’ve used my greasers with Hot Sauce, Reel Butter, Moly-Lube TS-726, Cal’s, Abu Silicon-PTFE and Penn Precision reel greases.  [I’ve also used Super Lube Synthetic and REESE Teflon general purpose greases – for applications other than my reels.]  All the reel greases worked well in the greaser, although Reel Butter, Cals and TS-726 required more force be put on the plunger to get the grease to flow. Super Lube and Teflon general purpose greases required a lot more force to be placed on the plunger — and I wondered if the shield on the top of the bearings might “pop out”, but they didn’t.

Some “Greaser” Tips

Here are a few tips that may help when using “The Greaser” on your frame bearings:

• Stop filling the bearing the instant you see grease on the side of the probe or coming out of the bearing. It will limit the amount of grease that you’ll need to remove from the outside of the bearing before you install it in your reel. By the way, colored greases like Hot Sauce, Cal’s or TD-726 are a lot easier to see, when compared to clear or cloudy greases. In addition, it will be more difficult to see when grease exits the bearing on smaller bearings, when compared to larger ones — so you’ll need to look closely!
  A Note: I’ll bet the first time you use “The Greaser”, you’ll swear the grease isn’t going into the bearing, and the probe is allowing grease to escape through the center race. But trust me; it’s going in and back out the small space between the center races and shields. [The instruction sheet you get with “The Greaser” talks about this, but many have asked me about it the first time they used theirs.]
• As you fill the bearing slowly rotate the center race to the left and then to the right ~90 degrees with the probe. This will help distribute the grease within the bearing and it will fill quicker.
• When you use “The Greaser”, press down on both the plunger and probe at the same time (and same rate). Try not to put extra axial force on the center race of the bearing if you don’t need to.
• Use the excess grease that ends up in the plunger or on the side of your bearings to fill your tooth brush (for lubricating gears), for dabs of grease on friction points, to coat parts, etc. You won’t end up with a lot of grease in the plunger unless you do very large bearings. However, you can scrape off what’s there (and on the outside of freshly greased bearings), and put it on the side in the funnel so you can use it.
• Remove excess grease from the sides and center race of the bearing with the Delrin stick that comes with the greaser. You can scrap the stick off on the side of the funnel as previously described. [I’ve also used a Popsicle stick, tongue depressor, small wooden dowel, piece of an old credit card, and tooth picks to remove excess grease.  My favorite is a strip from an old credit card; one end can be cut with a tab that will fit inside the center race of a bearing!]
• I’ve gotten in the habit of greasing smallest bearings first, then go up to the next larger size, and so on – and finish with the largest sizes. That way, you don’t end up with nearly as much excess grease from the reservoir in the bottom of the plunger funnel.
• The greaser works great for handle knob bearings, should you want a smooth-buttery feel while cranking.  These bearings are very small and will fill quickly, so I suggest you grease them before any of the frame bearings. It will be much faster if you don’t have to remove excess grease from them, as previously described.
• If you happen to use your greaser with higher viscosity greases, do yourself a favor and make sure you fill the reservoir before it gets completely empty.  There will be a  moderate hydraulic-lock between the reservoir, plunger and the grease running though the plunger; and grasping-pulling the plunger will be more difficult when empty.
• Always store the greaser with the cap installed on the base. The grease that is in the funnel won’t pick up any debris, lint, etc. and you can still use it as previously described.
• I’ve always stored my greasers vertically and out of the way. That way they won’t accidentally get tipped-over, and there’s no chance for them to roll off my bench onto the concrete floor.
• If you are using a tube of grease like Hot Sauce or Reel Butter, you can extract almost the entire contents into the reservoir.  Just grasp the sealed end of the tube with a pair of very long needle pliers, and twist it on itself all the way up to the tip of the tube. Then push sideways on the tip to extract the last little bit of grease from the end. [It's a lot harder explaining it, than it really is; but you are going to roll the tube on itself like a tube of tooth paste.]
• A plastic prescription pill bottle works well for saving old grease, if you are going to switch to different grease in your reservoir.  (You know, one of those orange semi-clear ones, with the white snap or child-proof cap.) The plastic resists the affects of most oils found in common greases, and the lid provides a decent air-tight seal on the bottle.  Just wash it with warm-soapy water to remove any trace residue and make sure it is completely dry before filling with grease. CAUTION: Don’t try to use them for holding solvent! By The Way: Many pharmacies will sell you new plastic pill bottles with lids, and they come in various sizes.  I also use them for holding hooks, sinkers, jig heads, small screws/nuts/bolts, split rings, swivels, and snaps. My wife said she paid $2 for 2 dozen the last time she got me some at the local Walmart pharmacy.  [I have also kept reel grease in 35 mm film containers (the gray or black ones with the snap lid).]
• You can get individual replacement parts from the RC Precision Products parts page should you need them. However I’ve used the heck out of a couple of my greasers and they don’t show any sign of wear!
• An Important Point: The key to using grease is to make sure the first time you apply it, that the component is “metal clean”. It really won’t matter what grease you use in your reels, if the component isn’t “metal clean”, then the grease, protectants and other additives might not adhere properly. I’ve gotten a few PM’s from Tackle Tour forum members who felt a new grease they switched to didn’t want to adhere on gears, bearings, etc.; but when I asked them about cleaning beforehand, they said they just wiped the old grease off and didn’t do any real cleaning. I’m afraid that just won’t cut it with most reel greases! (The easiest way to achieve metal clean on a metal non-painted component, especially bearings and gears, is to use a solvent.) My previous Tool Time blog goes into using the various types of solvents, safety precautions, containers, etc.
• Lastly, The Greaser can’t be used to lubricate an anti-reverse bearing.  Use the information provided in the Reel Bearings 301 Article for anti-reverse bearings. You might even want to use oil, depending on your reel — some reel designs and bearings are very prone to anti-reverse bearing problems and the way they are lubricated!

I’m not associated with RC Precision Products, any reel manufacturer, or a hobby retailer. I’m just a very satisfied greaser….

A Note: I need to spend some time getting ready for winter. So I’ll be backing off the blogging a bit, as I winterize the place at the lake, eventually the boats, etc.  The snow will be flying pretty soon, and that’s when I service most of my reels….

-dModder

If you work on many reels, it won’t take long before you realize that the tools you use can have a direct influence on the final outcome.  Simply put, wrong tools can result in damaged parts, lost time and frustration. Right tools can result in a reel that’s in much better condition than before, minimal effort and satisfaction from completing a professional job! No secret here; it’s a fundamental view shared by many reel techs, and the topic gets plenty of focus at most industrial assembly and maintenance-repair facilities.

So, let’s spend a little blog time looking at the tools used to work on bait cast reels. I’ll share some of my experience, thoughts and a few tips along the way. I know the information will be helpful to those just starting (based on the PM’s and email I get), and might provide some new ideas for others.

A Side Note: I’ve tried to cover the typical items you’ll need for your bait cast reels, but am sure I forgot a few.  So, don’t be afraid to contribute or provide comments about anything I may have missed – it will help those just getting started!  On the other hand, I suppose some might feel I’ve included a few items that aren’t really necessary; and that’s fine, I tried to identify them in the blog.  However, I’m retired now and like to make things easy ‘while at the bench’, and so do my fishing buddies who use my workshop! Lastly, I’m not associated with any of the manufacturers or retailers discussed in this blog.

Screwdrivers

A good set of smaller-sized screwdrivers is probably the most important tools you’ll need for you bait cast reels, and I suggest you get them before any others. You’ll need a set that covers a range of sizes and tip styles for your reels. They should be durable, easy to use, and finely finished so they grasp correctly.  [In an emergency while on the water, you might be able to get by with that 50-in-1 multi-tool, but the workbench is no place for compromise!]

Frame screws can be especially difficult to remove, primarily due to their small size, fine threads and close proximity to other components.  In addition, many reel manufacturers use thread sealant on them during assembly to reduce the possibility of coming loose, which can result in galled and corroded threads. So they can be extremely difficult to remove, especially if they’ve never been removed before! It’s important to note that a stripped head, damaged threads or a break-off in the frame can occur very quickly, should you use the wrong screw driver or get carried away!  Trust me when I say drilling and extracting a screw is no fun and takes a lot of courage – especially when it might not have been damaged in the first place, if the proper screwdriver was used!

Side plate screws present a little different problem.  Although the threads seldom have sealant on them, they are still small and have fine threads.  In addition, they are often finely finished and in very close proximity to painted or anodized components on the outside of the reel.  So, you run the risk of cosmetic damage if your screw driver slips because it was the wrong size or in poor condition, – which can be a subtle “I told you so” every time you see that scratched paint, chip or gouge on your reel.

Tips on Wiha screwdrivers still look almost new after a couple years of hard use! Notice the precision machining and satin finish still on the tips!

I’ve been using Wiha precision screwdrivers for a couple years now and I can honestly say they are the best I’ve ever used.  Mine still look new even though they’ve seen a lot of use. Yes they are a little pricey, but trust me when I say you get what you pay for and they are worth it. More specifically:

• They are made from hardened German machine steel and have tips which won’t wear or knurl during use.
• Are finely machined for an exact fit.
• The satin finish on the tip keeps them from slipping, yet it’s easy to keep the ends free of grease or debris.
• The profile is just the right size for your palm.
• The finger cap on the top of the handle makes them quick and easy to use.
• Edges are hard and sharp; so you can use them to slide an e-clip from its groove or push the side of a bearing clip from its mounting ring.
• They can be magnetized if desired. (Some reel techs like magnetized drivers for installing screws, picking up small loose springs/clips, etc. Sears, Wiha and many hardware stores sell a small tool magnetizer and de-magnetizer.)

You can buy Wiha’s individually at many hobby shops or a kit of typical sizes and blade styles from their website. They will occasionally go on sale at reduced prices every few months, so watch the Wiha website.

What set do you need for most reels? I recommend Kit #26199 – Slotted & Phillips Tools; 8 Piece Precision Set. It includes slotted blades in 1, 2, 3, & 4mm and Phillips tips in #000, #00, #0 & #1. I have a set for the workshop, place down at the lake, and my line-reel bag that I take on trips.

You might also need a ¼” and 3/8” slot blade screwdriver for some reels.  However, the screws you’ll us them on are not nearly as critical or as difficult to remove, so standard harder-tipped screwdrivers should be fine. I happen to use Stanley or Cobalt screwdrivers that I got at Menards, there’s nothing special about them.

Some Tips: Here are some tips related to your precision screwdrivers. Most are common sense, yet are worth noting:

• Store them in a designated location, and put them back when you are done using them.  Trust me when I say: “If the specific one you need isn’t handy, chances are you won’t use it!”, and “If you can’t find the one you need, you definitely won’t use it!” [–dModder quotes from his experience over the years!]
• Resist the urge to use screwdrivers for other applications.  Your Wiha’s aren’t made to scribe metal, countersink nails, stir liquids, scrap off rust or paint, etc. In fact, don’t use them for anything but your reels!
• Don’t pry with them; although the tips may be very hard, they might break if abused.
• Keep them clean and free of any grease, oil, or corrosion. Store them separately from other tools that can rust.

I spent a lot of blog space on screwdrivers, but did I mention that a good set of smaller-sized screwdrivers is probably the most important tools you’ll need for you bait cast reels?

Pliers

All of the pliers that I use for reels are mini-sized (5” size). Not only do they fit my hands better, they don’t seem to be as bulky or awkward to use around a bass reel frame, when compared to larger pliers. But I admit that’s just my preference, and you’ll want to go with whatever size you are comfortable with! So, if all of your reels are “big rounds” or if you have very large-sized hands, you may want to go with standard or larger sized pliers.

I’ve previously discussed my spool pin pliers in the Upgrading Daiwa Spool Bearings blog. They were also made from a pair of mini-sized duck bill pliers, and I strongly suggest you make your own!

Almost all of my pliers also have smooth or satin finished inside tips, which allow you to firmly grasp a part or component, while reducing the potential for surface blemishes or other damage.  In fact, I try to minimize the use of serrated tipped pliers at my workbench, whenever I can.

Craftsman sells a 5 piece set that includes a pair of smooth long nose, bent nose and needle nose pliers.  The set also comes with a small diagonal cutter and end cutter that I use while spooling line.  The grips make them comfortable to use, and they frequently go on sale at Sears or you can search Amazon.

Spinner and Socket

Most of the handle nuts or outer handle screws on bass reels are 10mm in size. I’ve found that a six-point 10mm deep-well socket mounted on a ¼” spinner handle works well for most situations. A 4-1/2” or 6” spinner handle (screwdriver style handle), will be more than adequate.  They sometimes come in a larger ¼” socket set, but you can get them at any hardware store if you don’t have one. [A 10mm socket won’t work on a TD-Sol, some Pixies, Presso or other reels that have different handle nuts.]

Some Tips: Resist the urge to use a pair of pliers or an adjustable crescent wrench on handle nuts, because they are usually recessed in a cast handle and are made from a softer metal! Brush a very small amount of grease on the first few threads at the end of the handle shaft before putting the nut on, it will lubricate the threads as you turn it down.  Lastly, you only need to snug-down the handle nut, since you can damage the handle, shaft or other components if you over-tighten it.

Miscellaneous Tools And Items

You’ll need some miscellaneous tools and other items when you clean and inspect your reels. So here’s a good start; but don’t be afraid to change, add or try a few different things on your own:

• An old toothbrush works great for applying grease on gears.  No need to get fancy here; just make sure the bristles are firm, straight and not deformed.  I prefer to use a child’s size toothbrush because it’s not as wide as an adult brush, which makes it a little easier to use on pinion gears.  (Over the years I’ve also used stiff-bristled acid, flux and small glue brushes.)  Just work the brush into the bottom of the gear teeth and cover the entire circumference of the gear.
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  A Note: There is no need to get carried away with the grease, since a light coat is all you need for most applications. A small and infrequent dab of grease on the brush will go a long way! Some Tips: Although the base of a helical gear seldom contacts other reel gears, it is still important to make sure it gets coated with grease.  In some ways, the extra grease at the base between each tooth acts as a reservoir that will wick and replenish the oil consumed on the rest of the gear, and you won’t need to lubricate it as often. To coat the base of a tooth, work/move the toothbrush parallel to the teeth and be sure to cover the entire width of a gear pair.  Also make sure you also brush the ends of pinion gears which laterally move through the center race of support bearings; it will help improve the ‘crispness’ as the reel engages/disengages.
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  An Important Note: Over-lubricating a set of high-precision reel gears can result in increased noise, rough feel while cranking under load, and grease getting into the drag stack. [Yikes, the wrong type of grease!] Although the gear set will probably quiet with use; the effects of getting gear grease in places you don’t want it, may require you to disassemble and clean the reel sooner than if you hadn’t over-lubricated the gears.

• Craftsman has a 6 piece Needle File set that comes in handy for knocking down a burr, dressing up the knurled end of a pin, smoothing a sharp edge, etc. The set occasionally goes on sale at Sears and includes #0 needle cut, flat, round, half-round, 3-square and square files(Craftsman #06757). However, I’ve also seen similar files on Amazon, in Home Depot and some  hobby shops for a little less.  They look almost the same as the Craftsman, but also come in other styles and larger sizes.
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  I still suggest you stay with files that are 6” or so in size. Primarily because they are easier to use without handles, are a good size for a bass bait caster, and they have finer or smaller edges than larger files. In addition, the basic styles that I previously mentioned work well for most situations, so there should be no need to get something really exotic.

• Tweezers come in handy for grasping and mounting the end of smaller springs and clips, positioning components in difficult locations, and removing parts from your solvent or cleaning solution. You want a set with a tip that is small enough to get into tighter locations, yet is sturdy enough to grasp and hold the end of a spring as you attach it. [For stronger or heavier springs you’ll probably use a pair of bent or needle nose pliers.]
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  I use a pair of Swiss made Dumont 6-½” stainless steel diamond tweezers, it has fine serrated points that aren’t overly-sharp (Dumont #101.72). It also has a locking tab that comes in handy for retaining the end of a small spring. You can find them or similar ones on the web.

• You’ll need some reel oil and grease; which can be a blog topic of its own. I suggest you search the Maintenance Section of the Tackle Tour forum for typical oil and grease that member’s use.  The topic comes up quite often and members post their preference. Also don’t forget drag grease if you have wet drags or drags that have been upgraded with Carbontex!
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  A Hint: You’ll eventually develop your own preference in a reel oil and grease.  In the mean time, don’t be surprised to find that anglers are as opinionated and emotional about their reel lubricants, as they are about rods, reels and fishing line!
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  A Suggestion: Stay with lubricants that are made for reels; they are relatively inexpensive and often contain additives selected for a fishing environment.
• If you fish in salt or brackish water, you may also want to use corrosion inhibitors like Beoshield, Reel-X or CorrosionX.  In fact, the lubricants that you may want to use and how you use them may be entirely different for salt/brackish water, when compared to fresh water.
  .
  The need to rinse and dry your reels after using them in salt or brackish water has the potential to wash-out some lubricants and corrosion inhibitors as you remove salt buildup.  In addition, sand and other debris from shore fishing may require you clean your reel more often, when compared to freshwater fishing from a boat.
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  A Note: Alan Tani has several excellent posts in the Maintenance Section of the Tackle Tour forum, specifically about saltwater reel maintenance.
  .
• Although not necessarily required when first starting, you probably will eventually need a caliper, especially if you do a lot of modding or troubleshooting.  A caliper can be used to measure the size of bearings, diameter of washers, height of a drag stack, etc.
  .
  I’ve been using a 6” plastic one that I got for reloading rifle cartridges over 30 years ago and it has worked fine. However, when I’m not wearing my reading glasses I’ve wished it had an electronic digital readout (e.g. digital vernier caliper). You can get calipers on line, just use Google to search.
  .
  Here’s a link to a .pdf file, in case you don’t know the 4 basic ways to use a calipers. Although the type shown in the file is a digital vernier caliper, the information still applies to other types: Using A Caliper

• At one time I could see the leg hairs on a horse-fly at 100 yards, but alas, that’s not the case anymore.  So, I find myself wearing magnifying glasses or a jeweler’s head visor more often, than in the past.  Although not required, I admit that they can make life easy at times.
  .
  Some Tips: A head visor can come in handy while removing the seals or shields on bearings, inspecting gears, and examining the threads on screws.  You can get one on eBay or at Home Depot, Lowes, Hobby Lobby, etc.  I prefer the type that are hinged and can be “flipped-up”, it’s an Optivisor with a 3.5x lens and 4” focal point.

Cleaning Supplies

You need to be careful when it comes to cleaning your reels and exercise good judgment.  Components are made from exotic metal alloys, carbon fiber, plastics, resins, ceramic, brass, bronze, rubber, stainless, etc. and can be adversely affected by the cleaning methods that you employ.  In addition, surfaces may be polished, painted, coated, anodized or production finished and can be adversely affected by the cleaners you use.  So here are some general cleaners, methods and tips for reel components:

• You may want to use a solvent for cleaning bare-metal components, like gears, bearings, springs, etc.  Solvents work quickly at breaking down the fillers in grease, lubricant chains in oils, and releasing debris from component surfaces. Good solvents include naphtha, acetone, Shellite, white gas, white spirits, Stoddards, paint thinner, mineral spirits, Coleman fluid, or even lighter fluid (which is primarily naphtha).  Just remember that solvents are an irritant, toxic and flammable; so exercise appropriate safety caution when using them. [Plenty of ventilation, safety glasses, safe storage, avoid contact with the skin, no sparks or flames, etc.]
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  I prefer naphtha and acetone; I get them by the gallon at Home Depot or Lowes.  Some Tips: Don’t use beauty shop alcohol or acetone, because they may contain a fragrance or perfume which can permanently discolor certain bronzes or yellow metals.  Never pore spent solvent down a drain, and never use dry-cleaning fluid, benzene or toluene (methylbenze or toluol); they are extremely toxic and rapidly build-up in the environment.  Also avoid getting solvents on painted surfaces or plastics until you are absolutely sure they won’t cause damage. Lastly, you should never need to rinse a component with water after cleaning in a solvent – just let them dry before adding lubricant!

• Naphtha also works great for cleaning Carbontex and metal drag washers.  It quickly penetrates and breaks down Cal’s and Shimano drag grease, and frees debris and wear products from the fiber.  Just swirl them around in a sealed jelly jar and let them completely dry before adding a light coat of drag grease.

• Some prefer spray solvents for cleaning bare-metal reel components; brake cleaner, electrical contact cleaner, carburetor cleaner, ether starting fluid, and circuit board cleaner are examples of what some Tackle Tour forum members use.  Although they are more expensive than liquid solvents, the spray action is very effective at removing debris.  However, I suggest that you spray outside since it can get quite messy, and be sure to wear safety glasses and avoid inhaling any vapors. Like any solvent, don’t allow it to get on painted or plastic surfaces until you are sure it won’t cause damage, and be sure to read the can!

• For cleaning non-metal, plastic or painted components you’ll probably want to use a good cleaning solution.  I prefer Simple Green diluted 10:1 to 20:1; because it is readily available, does a good job, is environmentally friendly and disposal is not an issue.  Others use their favorite dish soap, a citrus cleaner, aqueous degreasers, or solutions made specifically for cleaning reels.  Some Tips: Never use a cleaning solution that contains ammonia, disinfectants or bleach, since they can crack or corrode certain metal alloys.  In addition, there is no need to use harsh or abrasive cleaners for reel components; so stay away from acidic or caustic cleaners, pumice containing powders, or dishwasher machine detergents! [Someday I might share my dishwasher experiment, in a future blog.]
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  More Tips: Some cleaning solutions work best when they are warmer; grease/oil breaks down faster and debris is more readily removed with less effort.  So, when mixing your dilute Simple Green, try to use hotter water (e.g. up to 150 degrees or so), and do most of your toothbrush-scrubbing before the solution cools.  Also, don’t shake the dilute Simple Green solution to mix it, stir it instead; the suds don’t do anything for cleaning and will make it harder to see the components you want to clean!  Lastly, Simple Green can tarnish some aluminum alloys if it is diluted less that 10:1 and left in contact with the metal for a long time.  I always try to rinse components as soon as possible, after cleaning them with Simple Green. Follow the instructions provided on the container, for whatever cleaning solution you use.

• For solvents, you’ll want some small glass jars that have sealed lids to minimize evaporation losses and vapors.  Periodically swirling the components in the sealed jar also reduces the time required for cleaning. Jelly jars work great, and you can even get them in miniature sizes for smaller parts like bearings. Just dispose of them if the seal leaks or gets damaged. A Tip: Change the solvent whenever it becomes discolored or cloudy to the point that you can’t see your parts in the jar, and always try to finish cleaning in a jar of clear solvent.
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  The small lab vial in the picture to the right is the ideal size for cleaning a pair of bearings. The cap is made from a solvent resistant material that seals tightly on the glass vial. I got a box of them on eBay. The small black topped jar is actually a honey jar that I found in a Mariott Inn breakfast bar; it has a very heavy rubber seal on the lid and is great or cleaning several sets of bearings.  The gold topped jars are Knot’s Jelly Jars, and there is a set of spool bearings soaking in the Naphtha on the right. (I have also used canning jars in the past, they come in various sizes. However I don’t anymore, since the seals don’t seem to last as well as they used to.  Maybe it’s my imagination, but the seals and lids don’t seem to be as thick or as heavy as they once were?)

• For cleaning solutions you’ll want some plastic trays or small buckets that you can soak and scrub parts in. You’ll also need another tray or bucket for rinsing the components later. I’ve used white trays from frozen Lasagna, ice cream buckets, empty cottage cheese containers, and old Tupperware over the years. By the way, a white container makes it easier to see the parts while cleaning. Some Tips: Always rinse the components thoroughly with fresh water, after cleaning them in a cleaning solution.  Trace amounts of soap or wetting agents can cause problems when wet later, and may prevent additives and corrosion inhibitors contained in some reel oils, grease and anti-corrosive sprays from adhering.  An old stiff-bristled toothbrush works great for scrubbing small components in your cleaning solution; but I don’t suggest you use one with solvents – the bristles can splash and throw solvent droplets all over the place as you scrub!

• You’ll also need some rags while you clean your reels to wipe off debris, grease, oil, etc. I prefer white terry-cloth rags, just because they are relatively lint free and it’s easy to see any small parts that accidentally get stuck to them.  However, others use general purpose shop rags, paper towels, old dish cloths or even q-Tips.

Supertuning Extras

If you plan to also do some actual reel supertuning, you’ll probably need a few extras:

• Dremel Drill – I prefer an AC operated Dremel instead of a battery model, because the battery models I’ve had never seemed to achieve nearly as high a speed or were as powerful as a plug-in model.  In addition, it always seemed like the batteries never lasted as long as I needed them to. A Tip: Keep your eye open at the local garage sales for an old sewing machine foot pedal. You want the type that has an AC outlet for the machine to plug into.  It’s so much easier using your Dremel while both hands are free, and having the ability to control the speed with your foot is an added benefit. Just put the control on your AC powered Dremel at high speed and plug it into the pedal!

• You’ll also need a set of small buffing wheels and mandrels; some Dremel packages include them, along with extra collets, brushes, etc. But, you can always get replacements at Home Depot or Lowes.  A Tip: Don’t forget the safety glasses!

• I prefer Fabulustre for a polishing compound; it is actually a jeweler’s rouge that also removes light scratches, yet puts a very fine polish on most metals.  It’s practically grease-free so cleanup is quick and easy, and a ¼ pound tube is very reasonable and will last for years. You will usually find it in a good hobby shop, or can search the web for a source.
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  Others use a fine buffing compound like Brown Tripoli or White Rouge, and finish with Red Rouge.  A Tip: A solvent like naphtha is good for removing the residue from polishing compound or rouge. Here’s a link with more information on polishing compounds and rouge:
  http://www.hobbytool.com/jewelers-rouge.aspx

• Lighter-weight spool oil – there are several that work well. Search the Maintenance Section of the Tackle Tour forum for oils that members use.

Putting It All Together

Before You Ask: Sorry, I don’t work on other peoples reels. I’ve grown too accustomed to my freedom after retiring – and don’t want or need the responsibility for someone else’s reels, timetables, commitments, etc.

Picture showing about 2/3 of my latest reel bench.

A Note: I’d guess that my workbench sees about 100 to 125 reels a year now, and most are worked on during the winter.  (A few of my fishing buddies still use my bench to service their own reels.) Although that’s not nearly as many as it was in the past, it is more than a typical owner would do. In addition, the vast majority are bass bait casters and only a handful are spinnning or fly reels.  The only reason I bring it up is to provide insight and a perspective on my bench size, preferences, tool selection, etc. Your situation will likely be different.

I like to keep the majority of the small hand tools that I frequently use, stored on top of the bench itself – accessible, somewhat organized and not totally spread out. (I’m sure you’ll develop your own ‘bench demeanor’ with time.) Over the years I’ve used trays, drawers, Styrofoam blocks and foam bricks; but was never really happy with them. [For example: Trays took up too much bench space; you had to rummage through drawers to find the exact tool you needed; and foam wasn’t very durable or always wanted to tip over!]

I eventually settled on an ice cube tray made by Ice Tubes, Inc., which is used to make long and cylindrical ice cubes for water bottles.  It has a small and stable foot print (10”x4”x4”), is easy to identify and select the tool you need, and can be moved should you want to use the bench for something besides reels. You can even run it though the dish washer when it needs to be cleaned! I got it at Walmart, but I’ve also seen them for ~$6 at Target and on Amazon. I keep frequently used screw drivers on one side, pliers on the other, and remaining tools in the middle. (The key is to put the tools back in the same location when you are done using them.)

Ice Tray, Inc tray used to hold frequently used tools.

Infrequently used tools and parts are kept on shelves, in drawers, or other “out of the way” locations. [No need to clutter the bench with stuff that just gets in the way.] Especially since I typically cover my work area with a white terry cloth towel; I find it’s easier to see the parts, and the loop weave keeps them from rolling away or getting lost.

I usually just lay my parts out on the towel as I work on a reel, since I won’t have it disassembled that long anyway, and my workshop is my “Man Cave” [e.g. it’s off limits and doesn’t get disturbed]. However, I typically put the parts in a white ice cube tray and set it aside, if I do need to leave one disassembled for a while. Some Tips: White ice cube trays allow you to see the smaller parts better under typical lighting, when compared to colored trays. It’s also easier to remove small clips, screws and springs from trays that have rounded bottoms for each ice cube.  You can number the slots on the tray and sequentially put each part in a slot while disassembling the reel; and work your way backwards when re-assembling the reel.  Lastly, you might be able to use the bottom of a cardboard or Styrofoam egg carton to hold your components, although I’ve found they aren’t very durable and are easy to flip over.

Don’t forget that you’ll need the schematic for your reel(s). Many reels come with one or you may be able to find it on the net. I put them in vinyl sleeves that fit in a 3-ring binder, so I don’t need to look for them the next time I work on a reel.

I offer a few last thoughts for those who are new to servicing their bait caster (don’t worry, there’s no theory in this blog). Look for a place that has decent lighting and ventilation, plenty of space, a good work surface, comfort and few distractions.

Remember these points, they can keep you out of trouble:

• Small-shiny reel parts and strange smelling liquids naturally attract young children and pets,
• Wives won’t understand or like it, when you forbid anyone from entering the kitchen,
• The living room carpet has a reputation for digesting reel screws, springs and clips,
• The finish on the dining room table will probably be permanently damaged if you get solvent on it,
• Sitting “hunched over” a bench for a couple hours can cause your L4-L5 or L5-S1 to flare up, and
• Maybe the garage or basement isn’t so bad after all? [Christmas isn't that far away and reel tools make great gifts.  No need to press your luck!]

By The Way: How could you have a workbench without Ms Casey and friends being there to help keep track of important dates and to brighten things up? I have my 2010 Tackle Tour Calendar on the  bench and already look forward to the coming new year!

Good Luck!

-dModder

Nobody likes a “jerky” bait caster drag! You know, one that randomly pukes out line in pulses instead of being smooth like a Cuban cigar! Or what about a drag that you have to crank down with a cheater-bar just to get it to hold; worn and tired out for sure? Then there’s the drag you can’t trust, one that won’t play line when you know you’ll need it; probably contaminated with oil, dirt or debris.  And last but not least, the worst of the worst; how about the Hot N’ Cold drag!  One minute its working fine and then the next it won’t hold – someone call the doctor, got a case of drag bi-polar …it just might be the Phantom Drag!

Wait a minute, Phantom Drag? You’re new to bait casters and haven’t heard of that one before? Phantom Drag really isn’t a drag problem at all – it only gives the appearance or symptoms of one.  It actually occurs from either of two entirely different situations that I’ll get to later; yet has stumped many bait cast reel owners and an unsuspecting reel tech from time to time! If you’ve followed many forums you may have even heard it called a ghost drag, shadow drag, false drag or even a four-letter web explicative.

Symptoms of Phantom Drag

The best way to describe symptoms of Phantom Drag is to give you a few examples.  Although each example can seem similar, conditions can unfold or sneak-up on you differently, since there are so many variables involved. In addition, it’s not uncommon to even have a couple of these examples occur on the same reel over a short period of time:

• You’re on the water and eventually notice that the drag gradually plays-out line on its own when it shouldn’t (even though you hadn’t changed the setting).  So you tighten it a bit, and make a few more casts; and it still does it. You finally realize that the drag knob doesn’t make much difference at all, since you’ve just about tightened it all the way down!

• You notice that it takes a lot more cranking to retrieve your lure, than it did a while ago.  (Maybe it even gets to the point that line doesn’t come in at all when you try to retrieve a big crank or drag a lure through the weeds.)  Hey, it was working fine 5 minutes ago, but now it isn’t!
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  You tighten the drag and it makes no difference, so you set the reel aside and don’t use it for a while.  But when you try it again later at the house it works fine; only to start all over again after you make a few casts on the water! [Hot N’ Cold is right!]  You eventually determine the problem is somehow related to using the reel on the water, and conclude that water must be affecting the drag.

• You set the hook on a nice fish and loose it! Hmmm, you thought the drag was set….  So you crank it down a bit and keep on working the shoreline; only to have the same thing happen again. You know you had a good drag setting and decent hook set this last time; so what the heck?  You begin to wonder if line stretch, dull hooks or a rod with insufficient backbone is the problem.  You eventually zero in on the drag when you happen to see that line moves excessively from the spool during the hook set.  A-ha! The drag isn’t working!

• You’re adjusting the drag and find that the drag no longer holds when you pull on the line above a certain force – and no matter how far you crank down the drag knob, it just won’t go above that point.  Drag discs, friction washers, contaminated drag stack, etc. all become suspect; but what is really weird is that it almost seems to be related to outside temperature!  What’s up with that!?? A Tip: Resist the urge to dunk the reel in the water in this situation; it will only make things worse!
• You just rebuilt your reel and put that new braid you’ve wanted to try on the spool, so you can make a few casts.  But you notice that the drag doesn’t work the way it did before you worked on the reel. You begin to wonder if you didn’t make an error somewhere
• Or worse yet, what if you rebuilt the reel because of the previous drag problem – only to find that things are the same!  Duh?

Braided line accounts for the vast majority of cases where line slips on the spool.

Most Common Cause

So, what is a likely and most common cause of the previous problem(s) if it isn’t the drag itself?  Simply put, line is slipping on the spool and is a direct result of insufficient friction between the line and the spool. The lack of friction allows the line to turn and come off the spool when under pull or during a hook set. Trust me when I say it can happen – and when you least expect it.  A few things which can contribute to the problem include:

1. Chances are you are using braided line, and you didn’t wrap a good backup layer of mono-filament on the spool before you added the braid.  Trivia: Braid accounts for the vast majority of cases where line slips on the spool.
2. The problem can also occur with other types of line.  I’ve personally had Phantom Drag on my trolling rods that were spooled with Dacron coated lead-core line.  They worked fine until the first time I reeled in some line that had been in the water; which caused the rest of the line on the spool to get wet and slip on the spool. But wait… I thought Dacron wasn’t supposed to do that?
3. It has also reportedly occurred on a few finely-finished fluorocarbon lines that were tied on the spool.  Warmth from direct sunlight would supposedly cause the line to slip on the spool, even when it wasn’t wet.
4. Some sprays, waxes, solvents or oil that inadvertently find their way into the line can aggravate the situation – especially on stiffer-larger diameter lines or highly polished spools.

Check for line that is slipping on the spool.

A Tip: An easy way to tell if you have line slipping on the spool is to increase the drag setting with the adjustment knob toward the high end of the range.  Then restrain the line firmly with one hand and slowly crank the reel with the other, while carefully observing an edge of the spool:

• If the spool turns with a few of cranks, then you have line slipping on the spool; or

• If the spool does not turn, then you have a normally operating drag or the second cause for Phantom Drag! [So read on!]

Another Tip: Sometimes you might be able to put a thumb on the side of the spool to secure it, to see if line can be pulled from the spool.

Preventing Line Slip

If you are using braid or similar super-line, the easiest way to prevent line from slipping on the spool is to put a layer of mono on first, before layering the braid.  The base of mono will also provide a firmer foundation for the braid, and will allow it lay better as line is cranked back onto the spool. Just use a Double Uni-knot between the mono and braid.

Should you need to spool a lot of braid or braid-coated line, you can put a couple layers of electrical tape on the bottom of the spool to hold the line. For other lines, you can tape the end of the line directly onto the spool with electrical tape, or run the end of the line through the holes in a ported spool before tying it to the spool.

I dealt with my lead core line problem by coating the bottom of the spools with a thin layer of Plasti Dip. (I wanted a more-permanent fix since the rods weren’t used that often, and the smaller spools needed to be filled with as much lead core as possible.)  Once dry, the layer provided sufficient friction to keep the line from slipping on the spool when wet or dry, hot and cold, etc.  [Plasti Dip is a coating material used to rubberize handles on pliers, screw drivers, etc. It can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, Menards and other hardware stores. A Tip: To get the best coating make sure what ever you put it on is free of any moisture, wax, oil and debris. I cleaned the bottom of the spool with a rag that I had dipped in a solvent, and let it dry before brushing on the Plasti Dip.]

You can search Google for more information, ideas and tips for Plasti Dip or go to the website:   http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip

Some manufacturers have recognized the potential for line to slip on the spool and they have dealt with it “head on”.  Rubber or other tacky material may be laid onto the spool, the bottom may be dimpled or grooved, or a line groove with a knot stop may be included on some models.

Daiwa spool with line groove and knot stop will prevent line from slipping on the spool.

The Other Cause Of Phantom Drag

The second cause for Phantom Drag is a problem with the spool itself, and is not nearly as easy to detect as line simply slipping on the spool. [Yet it can have similar symptoms and unfold or sneak-up on you the same way.] The bad news is, when the spool is the problem it can drive you totally ‘crazy’ until you finally figure it out, based on my own personal experience!  The official diagnosis: Spool Shaft Slipto’-facto or a spool that slips on its shaft. If it’s any consolation; the good news is that it is quite rare and not nearly as common as it was 10 or 15 years ago.

[A Note: A spool that slips on its shaft is so rare that I seriously considered not even mentioning it in this blog. However it does occur and I put it in at the last minute, in case someone encounters Phantom Drag and can't figure it out!]

When I say it can be difficult to diagnose I mean it’s not uncommon to: 1) End up disassembling the reel to inspect drag components a few different times before you finally figure it out; 2) Have serious doubts about the reel itself; and 3) Not even suspect the problem is related to the connection between the spool and spool shaft. Needless to say if you find yourself going down this road, it may be prudent to check for a spool that is slipping on the spool shaft, before you get too far along. [I’ll tell you how at the end of this blog.]

Many bait cast spools are often made from a lighter material (e.g. aluminum alloy or carbon); while the spool shaft is made from a more durable and stronger metal (e.g. stainless steel).  The mechanical joint between the two can be press-fit, keyed, slotted, pinned, splined, collared, crimped, spindled, pin-tailed, brazed, soldered, cemented, welded, and so on (you get the picture).  Some spools may even employ combinations of the previous configurations in their design, to improve the strength and durability of the connection. Lastly, a few manufacturers have even gone to a one-piece spool on some models.  The bottom line is; the spool should never turn independently from the spool shaft unless you want a reel that has 2 or more separate clutch or drag systems!

So, the spool is no longer firmly attached to the spool shaft, and the lack of friction allows the spool to turn and line to come off under pull or during a hook set. Drag discs, friction washers, anti-reverse bearing, etc. are working fine in this case, and the spool shaft remains stationary.

An Aside: What can really mess with your mind during use is the spool slip can be affected by fretting corrosion. The softer aluminum wears the harder stainless steel and results in an intermittent connection that becomes affected by reel use, temperature changes, water or oil getting in the connection, etc. – making it appear that the problem is drag-related.  For example, it can hold firmly for a while, only to gradually fade during use; can work fine for normal situations but won’t hold at all under the impulse-torque from a hook set; or can completely fail and never hold. [The reason for the Hot N' Cold!]

A few things that may initially cause or contribute to the problem include:

1. The design of the spool and configuration of the mechanical connection(s).
2. Using heavy strength or braided line at extremely high drag settings. The force on the spool from the hook set and fighting larger fish can eventually affect the mechanical connection between the spool and spool shaft, and it will slip.  A Rule: A good rule of thumb is to set the drag at approximately 25-33% of the line rating! It is so much better for the gears, anti-reverse bearing, clutch components, etc.
3. Pulling a snag free with the reel while spooled with heavy strength line at extremely high drag settings.  The force from the pull on the line is directly transferred from the outer diameter of the spool to the mechanical joint at the spool shaft – and it gets multiplied because the diameter is significantly smaller! A Tip: Doing this is also hard on the anti-reverse bearing, level wind pawl/worm, drag components, spool shaft and gears.  Always avoid using the reel to pull a snag free!
4. Inadvertently having the reel reengage during a cast while using heavy line and a heavy lure.  Any damage will typically be limited to gears, bearings and clutch components; but the connection between the spool and spool shaft can also be affected, especially if it occurred during the initial part of the cast.
5. Forgetting to disengage the reel when making a cast while using heavier line and a heavy lure. Most of the time the drag will slip in this instance and will limit the effect on the spool connection. However, if the drag is set extremely high, the energy from the lure combined with the loading of the rod can be directly transmitted to the mechanical connection!

Alpaha ito spool that slipped on its spool shaft!

The previous picture shows the inside end of an Alphas ito spool that was sent to me by a forum member. It had been used for ripping bulky crank baits through weeds, with 50# braided line for about 2 months before a problem finally occurred. The faint mark match mark on the collar is no longer aligned with the rest of the mark on the spool shaft (not visible in the picture), and the red arrow shows the area where the slipping actually occurred.  I checked the spool and consistent slipping occurred at ~12# pull on the line, and was random below that.

The forces acting on the spool connection can be fairly significant given its relatively small size. So, it is almost impossible to repair a connection between the spool and spool shaft when it no longer holds – unless the spool is made to be disassembled and you can get replacement parts. Unfortunately most bass bait cast spools can’t be disassembled, so you’ll need a new spool.

For example, 10# radial force acting on the outside of a 35 mm diameter spool will result in ~70# of force at the connection on a 5 mm diameter spool shaft.  When you consider that the impulse-torque from a moderate hook set with a tighter drag and no line stretch can peak at up to 3 times higher; it’s no wonder you never hear of anyone who has successfully made a permanent repair.

If you follow many forums, you’ll seldom hear about spools that ended up slipping on their spool shafts. However, I recall a few reports on initial TD-X and S, Pixy and other spools over the years.

A Testimonial: I had some early TD-X/S reels with spools that slipped. I purchased a whole box of them for parts from a repair shop at a good price.  I tried a few different ways to repair the spools, since they were otherwise in good shape, but finally gave up.

A Tip: So, what’s an easy way to tell if your spool is slipping on the spool shaft?  Follow these steps:

1. Remove the spool.
2. Use a permanent marking pen to put a thin line across the connection(s) between the spool and the spool shaft (more than one actual connection can exist in the case of a crimp/compression collar).
3. Reinstall the spool in the frame.
4. Tighten the drag toward the higher-end of the drag range.
5. Pull some line with the reel engaged; verify that the spool is turning as line is being pulled. (If it is not turning, then you have the first cause for Phantom Drag.)
6. Remove the spool and observe your line. If the line is no longer aligned across the mechanical joint(s), then the spool has slipped on the spool shaft and the spool is damaged. (If the line is still aligned across the joint(s), then you have a slipping drag.)

If you are new to bait casters keep an eye out for Phantom Drag, because someday you may encounter it.  Hopefully, it will only be the line slipping on the spool!

-dModder

Spool bearing upgrades are probably the most common modification that Tackle Tour baitcast owners make on their reels, and it’s a frequent topic on the forum.  That shouldn’t be surprising, since bearing upgrades have become a quick way to achieve a little better casting performance (although some make them for other reasons).  One thing for sure, hardly a day goes by when you don’t see someone mention bearing upgrades in the Maintenance, Show & Tell, Reels or Enthusiast Sections of the forum!

So, you’ve followed the posts and they’ve “sparked” your interest? Or maybe you’ve been intrigued in the chatter about the ‘latest’ bearings, and have the itch to try a set for yourself? However you hesitate and have doubt — because you haven’t done an upgrade before, don’t know where to begin or even what you’ll need? Maybe you’re concerned with “messing something up, but just don’t know what?….

I’ll do my best to get you started in this blog, as I walk you through an Alphas-F upgrade.  I’ll point out the more obvious problem areas, provide some insights and tips, and lay the ground work should you want to do your own bearing mod.

[An Aside: Some experienced modders may even think I've gone a bit overboard in explaining and pointing out things; but this blog really isn't for them! ...or is it? I'm sure there are probably some steps that can be omitted without much consequence; but feel it's important to help the inexperienced as much as I can.]

Background

The Daiwa Alphas-F is a great reel right out of the box.  Not only is it light and just the right size for palming, mine is also one of the smoothest cranking reels that I own.  It can be used for many different presentations and does a decent job of casting lighter weight lures. However, like most reels, casting performance can be improved by upgrading the spool bearings.

The arrangement and layout of the Alphas-F is similar to most of the other magnetic-braked Daiwas, manufactured since the mid-1990s.  Although there may be minor differences in specific components, the information and steps provided in this blog can be used for just about every Daiwa model.

General Note About Other Reel Brands: There are just too many other reel manufacturers with various models to cover a lot of detail in one blog, since each will have their own design and construction.  Although I’ll spend most of this blog covering a Daiwa, the steps and discussion may still be of benefit when upgrading the bearings on other reels.  The general approach will be the same, but you’ll still want to search Google for more information before you begin.

All of the magnetic-braked Daiwa’s employ what is known as a free spool system, where the spool is completely disengaged from the pinion gear while making a cast. (However, that may not be the case with other manufacturers, especially their older models.)  So, you only need to upgrade 2 spool bearings for improved casting performance on the Daiwas.

Some bearing suppliers do a great job of identifying the bearings you’ll need  for the upgrade in their listings. For example, Boca Bearings and smoothdrag.com have the information conveniently arranged by reel manufacturer and model. However, you’ll need to know the bearing size for some other suppliers.

The size of a bearing is usually listed as the [id] x [od] x [thickness (or width)], and for the majority of reels, it will be measured in millimeters (mm). If you don’t know the size of a bearing you can always measure it with a caliper.

Most recent Daiwa models since the earliest TD-X’s and S’s use spool bearings that are the same size. They use (1) 3×8x4 in the center of the palm plate, and (1) 5×11x4 bearing that is pinned to the spool shaft and fits into the reel frame. So the Pixy, Sol, Alphas, Fuego, TD-Z, Viento and Zillion all take the same 2 bearings for an upgrade. [However, The Steez's and Advantages use (1) 3x10x4 and (1) 5x11x4, and the Presso uses (2) 3x8x4 bearings. The Presso also uses a bearing adapter to fit in the frame, as shown in the picture.]

Tools and Preparation

You’ll need a few tools and consumables to do the job correctly:

• 3/8″ flat-blade screw driver (or Daiwa reel tool),

• Small pick or 1/16″ flat-blade screw driver,

• Spool pin pliers,

• Long-nose pliers (preferably with smooth tips),

• Lint-free rag, terry-cloth rag for covering work space, and favorite reel oil, and
• Other contingency tools/consumables mentioned in the blog include a toothpick, lighter fluid (or similar solvent), and fine file or emery board.

Spool Pins and Pin Pliers

Sometimes a spool pin will be harder to get out (when compared to most others), depending on several factors.  Some factors include the spool configuration, design of the pin, how long it’s been there, if it’s been removed before, reel use, corrosion and whether it was previously bent or knurled. Spool pins are also usually located near other components which can be easily damaged if you get careless, slip or use the wrong tool. For example:

• You can damage the bearing while removing or reinstalling the pin, should you inadvertently contact or apply axial force on its outer race.

• The side of a spool can be dimpled or crushed if you don’t ensure there is sufficient clearance beforehand and contact it with the pin pliers. You always need to be aware of what is occurring!

• The spool tip or area on the spool shaft adjacent to the pin can get scored or burred. (Reports indicate that there is a higher likelihood for this to occur if you try to use a standard pair of long-nose pliers to remove the pin; which can slip as you apply pressure with the handles.) A scored spool tip can cause the spool pinion to vibrate while cranking/casting or wear at an accelerated rate, and a raised blemish can make it difficult to slide the bearing on/off the spool shaft.

• Some spool shafts are made from aluminum or other soft alloy to reduce the weight of the spool.  Others may be a smaller diameter like on the Presso. So they are especially prone to damage from serrated pliers and/or can be easily bent or deformed.

An Important Tip: If you try to grasp the pin to pull and twist it out with a pair of pliers there is a high likelihood you won’t be successful – and may cause irreparable damage in the process! So, I simply suggest you resist the urge!!!  Having a spool pin get stuck can be a frustrating experience – but having a pin that is broken-off or bent in the spool shaft can be humbling!

Some pins only have a dimple in their center to keep them in place; while others have small ridges that run the entire length around their circumference; so twisting them out is not a good option. Other non-Daiwa pins can be tapered and only can be removed or reinstalled from one direction (Abu Revos are the latest example), so always be alert for a tapered spool pin and check each side with a micrometer if you are unsure.

Another Important Tip: Don’t trust your eyesight when trying to determine if a spool pin is tapered; the difference in diameter is usually too small to accurately discern! [Many new Revo owners were totally caught off-guard when they did their bearing upgrade!]

The pins on some Daiwa spools are noted for being extremely difficulty to remove the first time it is done. The Steez’s, some aftermarket spools, and reels which are no longer in production and have been sitting on a store shelf are recent examples.

Side Note: I didn’t ’sugarcoat’ any of the previous points, since you need to be aware of the obvious risks, pitfalls and potential problems involved in removing the spool pin. (Be assured that it was not an attempt to scare you away from replacing your own bearings.) In fact, the vast majority of ‘first timers’ do extremely well –  if they have the right tools, take their time, and seek advice when they have a problem or question.  [However, there are many good reel techs available to do the work should you find you don't have the resources, mechanical skills, inclination or patience; and there's nothing wrong with that!]  Lastly, if you find you are getting in trouble the best suggestion I can give is to stop – since things can go down-hill quickly!

The best tool I can recommend for removing and reinstalling the spool pin is a set of pin pliers that you make yourself.  (The topic comes up quite often in the Maintenance & Supertuning Section of the Tackle Tour forum.) The pliers minimize the potential for an accidental slip, will press the pin perpendicular to the spool shaft (if made correctly), won’t gall the shaft, or contact the spool bearing if made/used carefully.  Here’s a few links that will get you started, they are not that hard to make:

http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=22551
http://www.tackletour.net/TTForums/viewtopic.php?=41219
http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=9097
http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=13038
http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=18778

[A Big Side Note: Before you ask; no, I don't sell or make them for others....  However, if someone was thinking about starting a side business, this might be a good product to begin with! There has been a lot of demand for pin pliers over the years.]

Spool pin pliers with holes for removing the pin.  The small peg is used after the pin has been pushed flush with the spool shaft, to push it the rest of the way out. [There is no need to use pliers to pull the last part of the pin out!]

[Small Side Note: Another method for removing a pin involves a small punch, semi-hard mallet, and support blocks. However, it takes a lot of dexterity, coordination and care when using them - and can't always be used due to the location of the pin.  So, I won't go into any more detail.]

A few others have made their pin pliers by grinding or filing away part of the side of a bill, on a pair of pliers. They work O.K. but I don’t suggest you use pliers that have serrations on the tips, for reasons that I previously described.

A Tip: No matter what pliers you use to make your pin pliers, I suggest you carefully remove any sharp edges, corners, burrs or ridges with a small file; and lightly polish these areas to remove any blemishes. You’ll also want to keep them in good working order, clean and free of rust. Lastly, resist the urge to use them for anything but spool pins!

Some members have also reported good success in using a pair of coil crimping pliers as shown in the adjacent picture.   The groove on one tip will accept the pin, as it is pushed flush with the side of the spool, by the other tip.  However I never have used a pair myself, so can’t offer any specific guidance, suggestions, or information on where to even get them.

However, it’s reported that they are available on the net and aren’t that expensive; and I only provide the information as a another possible option.  Just remember if you go this route, to make sure the side of the pliers has sufficient clearance so they won’t inadvertently contact the edge of the spool or the bearing when pressing the pin, and don’t allow them to slip off the pin.

General Precautions

Here are a few general precautions you’ll want to be aware of when working on your reel:

• Do not drop a spool on a hard surface, since a fall from 1′ onto  workbench can dimple an edge of a light spool, and a 3′ drop onto a hard floor can permanently damage braking components.

• The spool pin and bearing retainer clip can be easily become lost if they fall off the bench or get stuck to something.

• You can damage the cage or dimple a race inside a bearing, if it happens to fall onto a hard surface!

• Always support the opposite side where the pin exits the spool shaft, when you push a spool pin out of its hole, and never allow significant force to be applied directly on the spool itself during the process.  You can warp a lighter spool (e.g. out of round, bent side), or adversely affect the joint between the spool and spool shaft if you do. A Tip: Use spool pin pliers to remove the spool pin; it makes things so much easier. You can lightly hold the spool with one hand, and support the spool shaft while using the pliers with the other.

• Exercise appropriate precautions when dealing with solvents. They are flammable, toxic, irritants, etc.

Another Tip: Do yourself a favor and cover your workspace with an old terrycloth towel to help mitigate the potential for loss, damage or parts rolling off the workbench.  Also make sure you have plenty of light and space.

Procedure

Note: I’ll assume that the bearings you are going to install have already been cleaned.  [It's a good practice to always clean new bearings, even if you order them dry. Some 'dry' bearings may have packaging lubricant or a light preservative on them that may not be compatible with some reel oils.] You’ll find more information on how to clean your bearings in the Maintenance & Supertuning Section of the Tackle Tour Forum or in the Bearings 201 Article in the Review Archives.  I’ll also assume your bearings have been lubricated with your favorite spool oil.

1. Back-off Spool Tension: Reduce spool tension until force from the pinion under the tension knob no longer acts on the palm plate. This is an important habit to establish when ever you remove the palm plate on a Daiwa reel – since you can damage the palm plate.

Tabs on the inside of the palm plate prevent the magnet set plate from moving when the palm plate is rotated from the frame. If a lot of force from spool tension acts on the plate these tabs can get broken – and then you won’t be able to remove the palm plate! [This seems to occur more on the Lexan Aphas Ito palm plate, than any of the other low profile models.] So, never try to remove a palm plate while excessive spool tension is placed on the spool. See my previous Inside the Daiwa Palm Plate blog for details.

2. Break the Plate Screw Loose: Loosen the large screw located in the center of the magnetic brake adjustment knob.  Sometimes on a new reel you need to use a Daiwa tool (you get it with some reels), or a 3/8″ flat-blade screwdriver to initially break it free.

A Tip: I’ve found that I don’t need to re-tighten the screw with a tool, since it puts a lot of stress on the underside of the plate where it meets the frame; and you can eventually damage the palm plate in the process of repeatedly removing and reinstalling it.  So, most of the time I tighten mine down with a thumb nail, and only need to apply a little pressure on the screw with my thumb or thumb nail to loosen it later.  [You'll find a picture later in the blog; which shows the area that could get damaged on the palmplate.]

3. Unscrew the Plate Screw: Use a finger tip or thumb tip to unscrew the large screw the rest of the way.  The screw should turn easily even though it is spring loaded and it should turn smoothly as you unscrew it. It is is retained with the rest of the brake knob components in the palm plate, so you only need to unscrew it until it clears the threads in the frame.

If the screw happens to feel rough as you unscrew it, clean off the threads with a small brush after you remove the plate and put a very light film of reel oil or grease on them before you reinstall the plate.  A Tip: You’d wish you had done this step if you’ve ever had a palm plate screw jam in a reel frame! It’s more likely that this will occur on an aluminum framed reel (e.g. Alphas ito), but can also happen with some magnesium alloy frames.  Look up the word “fretting” on Google.

4. Rotate and Remove the Palm Plate: Once the screw is completely loosened, the plate can be pivoted about 1/8 of a turn to disengage the tabs from the frame and it can be removed. Rotate the front of the palm plate as shown in the picture.

Sometimes the spool will come out of the frame when the palm plate is removed, because of the fit between the spool tip and the bearing located in the plate.  However, just slide the spool out of the frame, if it doesn’t.

Tips: Occasionally, the spool pin may hang-up in the pinion gear, so it may help to disengage the spool with the release bar.  In addition, when you remove the spool you are actually pulling the spool side clutch bearing from the bearing socket in the frame, and the fit may be a little snug on a new reel.

5. Inspect the Spool and Palm Plate: Inspect the spool and ring magnets for excess oil, debris, or corrosion and clean as necessary.  Resist the urge to blow off any debris or oil on the magnets with a can of compressed air.

Also inspect ring magnets for damaged paint or coating, since you can have problems later as the condition degrades with reel use and time.  You’ll find more information on servicing the ring magnets in my previous blogs.

Lastly set the spool aside in a safe location.  You don’t want it to roll off the work bench or let the cat bat it around your workshop.  [I'm ashamed to admit that the later actually happened to one of my Sol spools! Oh yeah, the cat didn't offer to pay for the replacement....]

6. Remove the Bearing Retainer Clip: I suspect just about anyone who has disassembled a reel has lost more than one bearing retainer. Those small clips seem to have a mind of their own; frequently getting launched into the infinite vacuum of space by the spring force that keeps them mounted! So trust me; if you’ve never removed one before, you want to take action so you don’t loose the clip.  They are so small that they are almost impossible to find.

I like to put a finger or thumb over part of the clip to restrain it, as I push a small screwdriver or pick on one side of the clip to work the retainer out of its groove. [Just don't accidentally pry on the side of the bearing or one of its races!]  Some perform this step with the side plate in a clear plastic bag in case the retainer clip flies out; and still others may use a pair of tweezers to grab, hold and remove it. Do whatever you are comfortable with, but just make sure you do something to keep from loosing the clip!

Try not to scratch the anodized metal on the bearing socket or coating on the magnets when removing the clip!  Damaged paint on the magnets can be a problem later (see my previous Inside the Daiwa Palm Plate blog).

7. Grab the Clip: Grab the clip when it is free of the groove in the bearing socket.

Sometimes the clip will be attracted to the braking magnets, so carefully remove it to prevent damaging the paint and set it aside so it doesn’t get lost.

A Tip: If the clip gets lost resist the urge to use the reel until you install a new one. The reel may initially cast fine, but the bearing will slowly works its way out of the bottom of the socket while cranking, until it finally makes contact with the machined edge that holds the braking components to the spool shaft. The net result is that noise and vibration will increase while cranking, and the bearing will quickly wear because it does not track properly.

8. Remove the bearing – Once the clip is removed the bearing is free to come out of its socket.  However, sometimes the bearing will tilt and become stuck in the socket.  If this occurs, just very-lightly press around the top of the outer race to re-level the bearing and then pull it out.  In addition, stray static magnetic force can hold the bearing in the socket as it begins to clear the top of the inner ring. So, gently grab it with a pair of tweezers, bent paper clip or a small pick to get it the rest of the way out.  A Tip: I do not suggest tapping the palm plate on an open palm to remove the bearing, because the bearing can “catapult” out of the socket when no longer affected by magnetic force from the magnets.  If it hits a hard surface it can be damaged!

9. Insert the New Bearing – Insert the new bearing in the bearing socket.  The new bearing should go in with out much force. However, if it gets titled it can stick and not want to move; just lightly press the edges of the outer race to re-align it.  In addition, stray magnetic force from the inner magnet ring may keep it from going all the way into the bottom of the socket, so you’ll have to push it down as you install the bearing retainer clip in the next step. [I elected to leave the seals on my Boca Orange Seals, but that's just my preference. Others may choose to remove one or both seals.]

Note: If installing the bearing with one of the seals removed, put the seal toward the top of the bearing socket; where excess oil expelled from the bearing will not get on braking components, and there is less potential for debris or water to get in the bearing.

10. Install the Bearing Retainer Clip: Be careful when reinstalling the bearing retainer; it can fly out of the bearing socket and get lost just as easily as when you removed it.  I cover part of the retainer with a finger/thumb after I put 2 sides of the retainer in its mounting groove; and then use a small screwdriver or pick to push the last side into the groove.

A Tip: Inspect the clip again when you think you have it installed, because sometimes the last side you inserted will not be all the way into its groove. Nudge it downward into the groove if necessary, since it might come all the way out when making a cast.  When it does come out you can expect a major bird nest, as the clip gets jammed against the spool inductor and inner magnet!

11. Prepare the pin for removal: The spool pin will need to be removed in order to replace the gear side spool bearing. I always put a partial drop of WD-40 or good reel oil on both sides of a pin, and let it set for a bit before attempting to press out the pin.

The small amount of oil will lubricate the pin and may help break-down corrosion between the pin and spool shaft.

A Tip: I don’t recommend WD-40 be used in a reel very often, but this is one case where I do.  However, after using it you’ll want to locally clean the spool shaft. I’ll have more on this later.

12. Press Out the Spool Pin: [Remember some non-Daiwa spools might have a tapered pin, so they can only be removed from one direction.] Position the spool pin pliers so one side of the pin is in the hole and the other side is in the dimple of the other bill.  Press firmly with the handles while lightly supporting the rest of the spool – just make sure the pliers don’t contact the edge of the spool or the bearing!

A Tip: Check as often as necessary to ensure the pliers don’t contact the edge of the spool or bearing whenever pressure will be applied with the handles.

Note: If you apply a lot of force on the pin you run the risk that it will bend or even break-off.  However, this seldom happens with pin pliers, because they essentially press perpendicular to the spool shaft and in-line with the hole. But you may find that you’ve knurled the end of the pin over, which will make it impossible to get it through the hole.  In this case, you’ll need to re-dress the end of the pin with a small file, similar to the way you remove a burr at the hole on the spool shaft (in Step 14).

13. Pull the Pin Out: Push the pin out to the point that it is flush with the side of the spool shaft (about half of the pin will be pushed through the other side of the hole). Then grasp it with a pair of long nose or duck bill pliers and gently remove it the rest of the way.  Just make sure you don’t contact the side of the spool, spool edge or bearing when pulling it out the rest of the way!

A Special Note and Tip: Most owners, who have damaged their spool or bearing, reported that it occurred while pulling the pin the rest of the way out of the spool shaft!  The pin will be slippery because of the oil, so grasping and pulling it can be difficult.  If you intend to replace the pin, you might use a pair of long nose pliers that have serrated tips for a better grip.  Alternately, you can wipe off excess oil, or even clean the exposed part of the pin with a rag dampened in lighter fluid (or other solvent).

Once you get the pin out check it for obvious damage if you intend to re-use it. Knock down any knurled edges on the end, burrs, etc. with a small file or emery board (just try not to get carried away when doing this). Put it in a safe location so it doesn’t get lost. Trust me when I say it can roll away on its own!

14. Remove the Bearing: Once the pin is removed the old bearing is free to come off the spool shaft.  I usually tip the bearing over on its end and allow the bearing to fall into my open palm. But sometimes you’ll need to grab the bearing between a finger and thumb to gently slide it off the shaft.

Occasionally,  a small burr on the edge of the pin hole will prevent the bearing from coming all the way off, especially on a spool where the pin has been repeatedly pulled and reinstalled.  You can use a small file or emery board to remove a burr at the hole, just make sure you don’t contact the bearing or the area on the spool shaft where the center race normally fits with the bearing.  Also try to prevent filings from getting inside the bearing; by putting a piece of masking tape over the shield and races.  When the burr has been removed, then try to remove the bearing again.

A Tip: If the bearing gets hung up on a burr at the pin hole resist the urge to force it off.  You can quickly damage a miniature bearing by putting excess axial force across the balls and races.  In addition, there’s a high probability that you’ll score the shaft as you force it off, since the burr from the hole typically gets dragged between the center race and spool shaft – and the bearing can get stuck!  Do it right and remove the burr beforehand!

15. Lubricate the Spool Shaft and Tip: You’ve probably affected any lubrication that was on the spool shaft when you handled the spool. So it will need to be restored before mounting the new bearing; but we need to do a little cleaning first.  We need to remove the WD-40 that we used on the spool pin and any debris or metal filings we generated from pulling the pin.

[Side Note: I've always found it best if residual WD-40 is removed before applying reel lubricants; because it can prevent them from adhering properly. In addition, the light oil and water displacement properties of the WD-40 doesn't last very long in an environment like our fishing reels, when compared to good reel oils.]

First, use a lint free rag dipped in a little lighter fluid (or other solvent), and wipe the areas between the red-X’s shown in the preceding picture. Be sure to wipe the entire circumference of these areas. Next take the toothpick and dip it in the lighter fluid and clean out the hole that the spool pin fits into.  There’s no need to get carried away with the lighter fluid, but let the surfaces dry before proceeding. (Also exercise appropriate precautions when using the lighter fluid; it is flammable, an irritant, etc.)  Then put a partial drop of light reel oil on a clean finger tip, and lightly rub it across the spool tip and around the circumference of the spool shaft marked with the red-X’s. Remember, less is better – you only want to establish an extremely- light film; so spool tension works properly and so the center race of the bearing won’t hang-up on the spool shaft (when reinserted in the frame and during spool tension adjustment)! Lastly, put a very small amount of reel oil on the other end of the tooth pick and lightly-coat the inside of the spool pin hole with the tooth pick.

[Side Note: The bottle of oil shown in the left picture is Oust Met Oil. I have been using it on all of my Abec 7 bearings for 'uber' performance.  You can get it from smoothdrag.com....]

16. Mount the New Bearing: The new bearing should slide all the way to the machined edge inside the spool. So verify that there is sufficient clearance between the hole for the spool pin and edge of the bearing; if not then something is causing the bearing to hang-up.

I elected to leave the seals on my Boca Orange Seals, but that’s just my preference. Others may elect to remove one or both seals.

Note: If installing the bearing with one of the seals removed, put the seal toward the inside of the spool, so there is less potential for debris or water to get in the bearing and it may be easier to clean the bearing without removing it.

17. Insert One Side of the Spool Pin: Insert one side of the spool pin to the point that the dimple is touching the side of the spool shaft. I like to orient the dimple on the pin as shown in the picture; it seems to always go in a little easier this way. However, if the pin has serrated edges running down the outside of its circumference, you may have to align it so it mates with any serrated edges inside the hole. Just rotate and slide it in until the serrations mate in this case.
A Tip: There is probably sufficient oil at the hole to lubricate the pin when you press it back in (if you performed Step 15). [It's obvious, but I thought I should mention that if the pin is tapered it will only fit one way.]

18. Press-In the Pin: Position the spool pin pliers so the end of the pin you press is in the dimple of the bill, and the other side of the bill with the hole is aligned over the hole in the spool shaft.  Press slowly with the handles while lightly supporting the rest of the spool – just make sure the pliers don’t contact the edge of the spool or the bearing!

Take your time and be careful so the pliers do not contact the side of the spool or new bearing. Try to push the pin in so it is centered on the spool shaft.

It should not take as much force on the handles to reinstall the pin, as it did to remove it. If it does then something is wrong. Either you did not remove any knurled edges on the pin, or did not clean and lubricate the hole before hand.

19. Center the Pin: It is important that the spool pin be centered on the spool shaft.  Move the pin as necessary with the pin pliers, so an equal length of pin ends up on each side of the spool shaft.

A Tip: If the pin is not centered it can contact the bearing socket inside the frame (or even the center race of the large pinion gear bearing on some frames). You usually have about .5 mm clearance on a side before this occurs, and can look at the pin to see when it is properly centered. Sometimes I look straight down at the spool tip, and use the shield/seal on the side of the bearing as a way to determine when the pin is properly centered.

(By the way, the pin in the picture is centered. It may not look like it due to the tilt of the spool.)

20. Reinstall the spool and side plate: Reinstall the spool, side plate and lock it in place with the plate screw. (Reversing the process described in Steps 1 thru 4.)

Note: There is no need to excessively tighten the screw, since you can damage the palm plate; only tighten it enough so you don’t loose the plate on the water!

21: Reset Spool Tension and Braking: Lastly, don’t forget to re-tighten spool tension and set the brake adjustment knob when you are done.

You need to do this before you make your first cast!  Trust me, you’ll wish you had if you didn’t!

Download Available!

Hopefully you’ve been able to follow along and complete the upgrade without any problem.  I’m sure you’ve learned a lot in the process, and the next time it will even be smoother!

I’ve included a copy of this blog in Word format, since you may want to have the instructions while doing the upgrade at your bench! You can download the .doc file to your hard drive with the link at the bottom of the blog, and print it out later

Completed Alphas-F, ready to make a few practice casts!

[Side Note: The Alphas-F used in this blog had previously been supertuned.  It has an Alphas ito spool, TD-Z 4-bearing handle, level-wind and Carbontex drag washer upgrades, and specifically polished components for improved performance.]

[CLICK HERE] for Word copy of this blog.

- dModder