In some ways,  the level wind on your bait cast reel is like the brakes on your car. Most of the time they work great and do exactly what they were intended for – it’s easy to take them for granted while enjoying care-free performance.  However, sooner or later they’ll need to be serviced; and that new noise, different feel or way it performs might be a subtle hint that it’s time for some maintenance.  You can have bigger problems later if you ignore or don’t recognize the signs, just like the brakes on your car!

So let’s spend a little blog time looking at level wind hardware, operation and maintenance.  I’ll cover some of the fundamentals, performance problems and tips along the way. There’s even a little Show n’ Tell toward the end of the blog, compliments of my junk box. Although I’ll focus primarily on Daiwas, the information will be useful for other bait cast models.

A Blog Note: Unfortunately, level winds are about as exciting as drags …which can be a drag (pun intended). So, don’t expect any new or revolutionary discoveries, tools that I’ve developed (like from my Inside the Daiwa Spool Blog), or earth-shattering concepts.  It’s just some meat n’ potatoes blogging – intended primarily for those just getting into maintaining and using their bait casters.

The Mechanics

The design and configuration of Daiwa bait cast level winds really hasn’t changed much over the past 30 years or so.  Sure, a few models may utilize idler gears in rotating the worm shaft or even a drive plate to move the line guide, but almost all recent Daiwas essentially share the same arrangement.  Subsequently, level wind components tend to look the same, although they may not be the same size.

Note about other reels: There are just too many other reel manufacturers with different models to cover a lot of detail in one blog, especially since each will have their own hardware and arrangement.  However, most level winds do share some commonality; the worm shaft, pawl and pawl cap tend to look and perform similar across the vast majority of designs.  So, although I’ll spend most of this blog covering Daiwa reels, the information may still be of benefit when dealing with other manufacturer level winds.

The schematic below shows most of the level wind components found on a typical Daiwa low profile bait caster.  Other manufacturer reels will have components that serve similar functions, however they will be labeled differently.  For example, a pawl cap may be called a keeper, the worm holder may be called a bushing, the worm shaft could be called a level wind screw, and the guide washer may be called a shim.

Typical Daiwa bait cast level wind configuration.

Almost all level wind schemes employ a pawl that rides in the groove of a gear driven worm shaft, to move the line guide across the face of the spool.  In the case of Daiwa low profiles, the worm shaft is powered by a gear mounted on the handle shaft, which turns as the reel is cranked.  However, that may or may not be the case on other models, especially big round bait casters – where the worm shaft could be driven from the spool or the drive gear itself. A Note: I won’t go into much detail on any of these designs because they are fairly straightforward; just look at your reel schematic to identify the method(s) employed.

There are two general types of level wind systems found on bait casters:

• The synchronized level wind does not disengage when the reel clutch is disengaged for a cast; so the line guide will move during a cast, retrieve and when line is being pulled under drag.  Some may refer to it as a/an synchronous, non-disengaging, engaged or engaging level wind.On the positive side, a synchronized level wind will tend to reduce the friction of line rubbing against itself as it comes off the spool; which would especially be of benefit with braid, since braid has a tendency to “dig” into the layers beneath it. A synchronized level wind will also reduce the angle of the line being pulled from the spool to the line guide; so there is less friction at the guide, making it ideal for casting with wider spools and less line wear.
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  On the negative side, a synchronized level wind will use energy from the cast to move the line guide back and forth across the face of the spool – making it best with spools that have higher mass or for heavy-weighted presentations. [More momentum is generally available in this case.]
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  Synchronized level winds are typically found on wide lower profiled reels like the new Revo Toro or the bigger rounds like some of the Abu 5600/6500/6600C’s.
• A non-synchronized level wind disengages when the reel clutch is disengaged for a cast; so the line guide will not move during a cast. [However, the line guide may or may not move as line is pulled from the spool under drag (dependent on the design of the reel).] Some may refer to it as a non-synchronous, disengaging or disengaged level wind.
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  On the positive side, a non-synchronized level wind will not use any energy from the cast like its synchronized counterpart – making it ideal for lighter spools and/or lighter weight presentations. [Where less momentum is available from the cast.]
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  On the negative side, a non-synchronized level wind may result in the line guide being positioned all the way over on the other side of the spool, as line is pulled form the spool while making a cast. This could be a problem for a very wide spool, since the angle to the line guide would be quite large, and energy from the cast gets lost to increased friction at the guide.
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  A Note: Even so, most low profile reels have non-synchronized level winds – especially those that employ a “free-spool” design. The spool on a low profile reel is generally much narrower and the guide is further from the spool, so the angle between the point where line comes off the spool and the line guide never gets very extreme.

An Observation: I’ve found a synchronized level wind reel will generally require a little more maintenance than a non-synchronized reel – when all things are considered.  This is a result of the level wind moving twice as often, and usually with heavier-weighted lures and higher spool speeds. Even so, cleanliness, lubrication and wear of level wind components will still affect performance of either type, and periodic maintenance will be required. But we need to cover some of the specific components before I get into the maintenance.

The Hardware

Although there are usually a dozen or more components associated with a level wind, I’ll only focus on a few of what I consider the more important ones.  These are the components that can typically develop problems; a direct result of the conditions you encounter while fishing, how you maintain and use your reel, and reel design.  Fortunately, bass bait cast level winds have improved over the years, and they don’t cause nearly the difficulties that they once did.

Pawl and Worm Shaft
Contact between the crescent and crescent tips on the end of the pawl and the groove on the worm shaft, is probably the most critical factor in correct level wind performance.  The design employs what I call an ‘optimal mate’ [for lack of better terms].  On one hand the fit is sufficiently loose so the pawl tip is free to move and seldom binds as it travels within the groove. On the other hand, the fit is precise, so the pawl accurately tracks and even switches directions at each end of the worm. A Side Note: In many ways the mate is a design compromise between two extremes, which will only degrade with time. Cleanliness, corrosion, lubrication, environmental factors and use will all affect wear of the two components!

New Daiwa pawl shows shape of crescent and crescent
tips critical to proper level wind performance.

The picture above shows a new Daiwa pawl.  Note the shape of the crescent tips and the crescent itself, each has a specific role in level wind operation:

Crescent Tips: The crescent tips cause the pawl to switch directions on each end of the worm shaft; as they steer the crescent through the reversing [and crossing] tapers of the groove.  The relationship between the pawl tip width and cut of the groove are both critical to the switching action – the switching may not occur should either adversely change from wear or damage.

Crescent: The crescent maintains contact with the walls and bottom of the groove, so shaft rotation results in smooth lateral movement of the line guide.  An axial thrust develops on the worm shaft, as rotation is converted to movement of the line guide.

Unfortunately, the line guide may not lay line uniformly back onto the spool or might even stop traveling if:

• The pawl tips or crescent gets worn, fouled, or damaged,
• The worm shaft groove needs lubricant, gets worn or fouled, or alignment becomes affected,
• The pawl cap does not keep the pawl in the groove or does not maintain proper alignment so the pawl changes direction at each end of the worm, or
• The worm shaft no longer rotates smoothly.

An Observation: Some pawls have a smooth finish on the body, while others have more of a matte finish; something that I’ve casually noticed over the years from various manufacturers.  Regardless, it is not uncommon for the outside of a pawl to slowly and gradually wear with normal use.

Daiwa worm shaft has dual tapered groove that the pawl
tracks in.  The taper switches at each end of the groove.

The previous picture shows a Daiwa TD-X worm shaft with gear that has seen 14 seasons of moderate use.  Like most Daiwas, the gear and the shaft are made from a hard aluminum alloy.  If you look closely you can see light wear marks from the pawl, where it traveled in the taper – pretty much normal for a worm that has seen this much service.  I would also expect to get a couple more seasons of use from it, before it needs to be replaced.  A Tip: Keeping the worm and pawl lubricated and clean are fundamental to continued performance.

Pawls and worms have been made from various materials over the years.  Stainless steel, brass and bronze alloys, nickel and chrome plated metals and others have all been used throughout that time.  Unfortunately, some materials wore quickly while others were susceptible to corrosion – and if you fished from shore or in brackish/salt water you may have felt lucky if you got through a season of fishing before you needed to replace them.  That is still the case with a few reels today, but for the most part, manufacturers have generally adopted harder and more resilient materials in recent years. But if you have one of the older rounds or a low-end reel, it would be prudent to look for signs of corrosion, since it can quickly result in damage and wear.

Harder aluminum alloys generally seem to be the most popular material currently being used for low profile pawls and worm shafts today.  Some higher-end models also use anodized aluminum or special coatings to improve resistance to wear and corrosion.  Hey, if you are a modder you might even be able to get ceramic pawls for your round Abu!

An Observation: There have been discussions on some forums, about pawls wearing faster than the worm shaft they track in.  I would have to say that some manufacturer pawls were (are) made from softer material than their worms, but that isn’t always the case today.  Regardless, I would still expect pawls to wear a bit faster than worms even when made from the same material, since the wear in the groove is spread across a much larger surface area, when compared to the pawl tip. A Tip: When you work on your reel devote more attention to the wear and condition of the pawl tip. In general, it will likely need to be replaced long before the worm in most common situations, especially if you routinely maintain your reel. Another Observation: A pawl typically runs $2 to $4, while a worm shaft can cost $12 to $20. I guess that’s a good reason for wanting the pawl to wear first!

Pawl Cap and Guide Washer
The pawl cap and guide washer fit over the flat end of the pawl.  They ensure the pawl is correctly aligned and positioned onto the worm shaft, in allowing the pawl to move as it follows the groove.  Caps are typically made from metal, plastic, Delrin or other material, and can crack or strip threads if over-tightened.  Lastly, the level wind may operate erratically if the cap becomes loose or if the guide washer beneath it gets excessively worn.  A Tip: Although the cap may be made from metal, only snug it down when you reinstall it.  It can crack or even fail later if it is over-tightened! A Personal Note: I used to carry extra pawls and caps for my round Abu’s.  Occasionally I’d need to replace a pawl while shore fishing, and would invariably drop something in the sand! Grrrrrrr!

The guide washer provides the correct clearance on the pawl, so the pawl makes adequate contact and tracks with the bottom of the groove, and also allows the pawl to move back-and-forth without wearing or loosening the cap.  It is usually made from a softer brass, copper, bronze or other material that may or may not corrode in brackish or saltwater.  An Observation: It seemed like some guide washers would always corrode on some reels – eventually affecting pawl movement, and maybe even causing the cap to work loose. However, that doesn’t seem to be much of a problem with low profile reels today, even if used in salt or brackish water.  An Aside: Unfortunately, the cleanliness and lubrication of the washer, guide and pawl can still affect performance of a level wind.  A Tip: The pawl and washer may need to be lubricated should you find that the pawl cap has come loose.

Worm Bushings
Some Daiwa low profile reels have a worm bushing (Part No. 40 in the previous Alphas schematic), and a holder that supports the ends of the worm shaft.  Yet, others have a bearing and small collar under the gear on that side of the worm, like in the TD-Z’s, TD-ito’s, Steez’s, and other flagship models. Hey, selling reels is very competitive, and I suppose the former arrangement might provide a slightly better “price point” in the bigger scheme of things….

Fortunately, it’s possible to replace the gear bushing on most Daiwa low profiles, with a 4×8x2.5 mm bearing and a 5×6x2 mm bushing collar to improve level wind performance.  More Information: The bushing under the worm shaft gear can be upgraded on the Pixy, Presso, Alphas, Fuego, Viento, etc.  You’ll need ball bearing (part 39) F05-5601 from the TD-Z103H/105H and worm shaft collar (part 40) G01-0701 from the TD-Z 103 to complete the modification.  More information is provided in the Pixy Sticky Post at the top of the Maintenance Section and archives of the Tackle Tour Forum:

√ Preliminary Report

√ Final Report

Level wind bearings allow the worm shaft to rotate smoother and with less frictional losses, especially when under heavier load (e.g. fighting a large fish or when retrieving bulky cranks).  You’ll appreciate this if you are a tournament angler, or one who spends a lot of time on the water using the reel. However, level wind performance can be significantly impacted should the bearings get worn, damaged or fouled, or need lubrication. A Tip: There are kits you can buy to convert some of the round Abu’s over to bearing supported worms.  Check out Hatteras Outfitters for some Abu Eye Candy – lots of level wind and other goodies for Abu modders. [Special thanks to a TT Forum member for providing the link.]

Level Wind Guard
The Daiwa level wind guard has several functions:

• The guard eliminates any transient axial force from the line acting on the line guide, so it always keeps the pawl perpendicular to the worm.  This helps prevent the pawl from binding and allows the guide to moves smoothly across the face of the spool. A Tip: If you notice the line guide makes a scraping noise or almost appears to chatter when you crank the reel, try cleaning the guard or even put a small drop of spray car wax on it. However, the guard might be worn to the point that it should be replaced.
• Just as important as the previous point, the guard also reduces the potential for dirt and foreign material from getting into exposed level wind components and helps retain lubricant.  This reduces fouling/wear of the worm and pawl. A Note: This was a major problem on some of the earlier bait cast reels produced by other manufacturers; not having a guard created the need for constant maintenance!
• It prevents the line from inadvertently getting caught between the pawl and worm shaft.

Guards are typically made from plastic on the Daiwa low profile reels. However, they can be made from plastics, brass, bronze, resins or plated metals on other manufacturer reels. Although they don’t usually require much maintenance they can wear, causing the line guide to get a little jerky or wobbly on other manufacturer reels.  However, most anglers probably wouldn’t think to look for it.  A Note: Some of the metal guards would also corrode when exposed to salt/brackish water, and wouldn’t look very good. This isn’t much of a problem lately on most reels, but might be on a very low end “blister packaged” bait caster. A Side Note: One of my nephews took a low priced Walmart bait caster to a local phosphate pit we fish in late summer.  Although we thoroughly washed all reels when we got back, the plating started to flake off his guard a couple days later.  The only thing we could do was to brush off the remaining plating and keep it coated with a film of grease from that point on.

Cleaning and Lubrication

Nothing will affect the condition of the pawl and the worm shaft more, than the cleanliness and condition of both components. So it is important to keep them free of foreign debris and well-lubricated, while also looking for problems and resolving them when they begin to occur. It is not uncommon for original level wind components to last the life of a reel; with a little care, cognizance and normal operation.

[An Aside: You’ll probably get tired of hearing me repeat this over and over again …but it’s a fact! Do yourself a favor and get “anal retentive” about keeping exposed level wind components clean and lubricated! They are just too easy to forget about or neglect, until it's too late....]

Some types of debris can present unique problems:

• Sand is likely the most detrimental; it can be carried by the water you fish in, silt, or the wind – and will often adhere to lubricated components.  It presents a unique problem if you surf cast, shore fish, fish from a kayak, etc., since wear and damage can quickly occur.  Sand particles or fines may result in scratches, pits, gouges and accelerated wear of metal surfaces. Some Tips: Never set the reel down on the sand if you can avoid it. Keep a small brush in your tackle box so you can remove any sand while fishing.  Always check exposed level wind components after shore fishing, and clean as necessary.

• Algae and other organic material can result in two types of problems. Not only can it directly foul the worm and pawl when dry, but worse, it can also damage certain metals or metal coatings.  Stress cracks, pitting and blemishes can occur if the reel is stored while still wet, or if algae repetitively dries and gets whetted.  Tannic acids released by leaf and shrub debris can also stain and blemish some aluminum alloys. Tips: Keeping your reels covered while walking through brush, scrubbing and rinsing the outside of the reel after fishing algae laden water, and making sure your reel is dry before storing it are always good practices!
• The coating from some braided lines can foul the worm, causing the pawl to not track smoothly or properly in the groove.  In extreme cases it can even bind up the reel so cranking will be difficult. A Note: Unfortunately, some anglers don’t notice a flaked coating initially coming off a new line, so it ends up forming a hard deposit on the inside wall of the groove. The reel may crank a bit harder as a result of increased friction between the worm and pawl.
• Old lubricant (especially expended grease), that has picked up wear products from the pawl and/or worm shaft, can also be very abrasive.  Most of the time it will turn very dark in color, consisting of a mixture of: foreign debris; metalic oxides, scale, and wear particles; oxidized lubricant and expended additives; and other material.  So, if the grease gets darkly discolored (like in the picture to the right), or you notice a buildup of soft debris beginning to form on the worm shaft and groove, it needs to be cleaned and re-lubricated. A Note: The buildup can still occur if you lubricate your worm and pawl with oil, especially if the components are never cleaned before adding new lubricant! A Tip: Don’t expect new oil to wash away old debris! An Aside: The picture above shows factory grease removed from a pawl and worm on a Daiwa reel. I bought the reel used on the auction site; it  needed some TLC!
• Corrosion and rust can be especially troublesome for some stainless steel or plated pawls and worms. The problem tends to occur more often when the reel has been used in salt or brackish water, but can also happen with freshwater.  Keeping the components clean and re-lubricated is a good line of defense. Accelerated wear and surface pitting, and periodic “rough spots” that you feel coming from the level wind, are a result of corroded or rusted components.  A Tip: Using grease on the worm shaft and pawl may be an option in this case; just remember that they may also pick-up more debris! Corrosion-X or ReelX might be lower viscosity alternatives.  [There is more information on this in the next few paragraphs.]

Cleaning Disassembled Components
I typically clean disassembled metal level wind components in a small jar of solvent, it takes less time and effort than using cleaning solutions.  Naphtha and acetone are my favorite, but occasionally I clean with a spray solvent.  You can blow the components dry with a small can of compressed computer keyboard air, to make sure the parts are completely dry before lubricating them.

I clean disassembled non-metal or plastic level wind components in a diluted mixture of Simple Green.  I prefer Simple Green diluted 10:1 to 20:1; because it is readily available, does a good job, is environmentally friendly and disposal is not an issue. Others use their favorite dish soap, a citrus cleaner or solutions made specifically for cleaning reels. Most of the time I’ll use my ultrasonic cleaner, but I have cleaned them in a plastic container using a tooth brush.  Just be sure to rinse the parts thoroughly with fresh water afterward.

Mid-season Cleaning of Level Wind Components
Lately I remove the pawl cap, guide washer and pawl to clean them while other components are still installed on the reel, like during a mid-season clean and inspect.  On some reels this may require that you remove the front plate, which is usually held to the frame with the line guide stabilizing bar or screw. (You can typically remove the stabilizing bar from the palm plate side of the reel.) A Tip: It is a lot easier cleaning the worm, pawl cap, washer and pawl if the front plate is removed on Daiwa low profiles. Re-installation is a lot easier too! Another Tip: When you reinstall the pawl, make sure its tips are in the worm groove. Some pawl caps can be put back on with the pawl not in the groove, and it can damage the pawl and/or worm if you crank the reel!

I clean the worm while it’s still mounted on the reel with the corner of a rag that has been dipped in a little Naphtha. Just try not to get the solvent on painted or plastic surfaces, and move the line guide to one side and then the other to clean the entire worm shaft. [The guide will move easily, since the pawl is no longer installed.] Alternately, I’ve used a tooth brush or stiff-bristled acid brush dipped in a dilute Simple Green solution to clean the worm and grooves, thoroughly rinsing it with fresh water afterward.  I also wipe the level wind guard off with a q-tip or small corner of a rag dipped in the Simple Green solution.

An Important Tip: I do not suggest blowing the worm, pawl or guard off with any compressed air while they are mounted on the reel, since it can blow debris into the bearing(s) or bushings located on the inside of the frame. Some reels don’t provide a very tight fit between a worm shaft, frame and side of the bearing; trust me when I say debris can find a way into the bearing! A Tip: That is also why I don’t suggest using a spray solvent to clean mounted components, it can get into the bearing and break down any grease or oil that was used to lubricate the bearing!  The residue can even pool inside the handle plate and affect other components.

You’ll find more cleaning information in my Tool Time blog, including some of the more important safety precautions for solvents. In addition, you’ll want to consult the schematic diagram for your specific reel, to determine the best method for cleaning and disassembling the reel.

Lubrication
The lubrication of the worm shaft, pawl and pawl washer is important to correct level wind performance and minimizing wear, as previously described. However, the type of lubricant that you select should be carefully considered for your situation; since the wrong one might result in problems.  Although most reels leave the factory with grease on components, that may not be the ideal lubricant for your situation.

If I had to guess, I would say that over 50% of the anglers use oil to lubricate exposed level wind components; while the others use grease. So let’s get to the factors that should be considered when selecting a lubricant, because the choice is ultimately yours!

Oil: Oil is easy to apply, has lower viscosity and doesn’t pick-up nearly as much debris as grease when applied on exposed components.  So, it may be better choice for a shore or surf angler, who is more concerned with sand or other foreign material fouling components during use.  However, it may not be a good choice for some presentations that put heavy loads on the pawl or worm shaft, since increased wear can result.  Although it will need to be applied much more frequently than grease, this is usually not an issue, because the components are likely cleaned more often anyway.

Grease: Grease does not need to be replenished nearly as often, but it does tend to attract/hold more debris when compared to oil.  However, the inherent properties of the filler in grease will help minimize wear under extremely high loads — like when pulling very bulky baits, repetitively-ripping lures through weeds or during a presentation, or fighting very large fish.  It may be a better choice for a boat angler who is not exposed to the sand or debris that a shore angler would see, and who keeps his reels covered or stored in a relatively clean environment.  Lastly, grease is much more difficult to remove when the components need to be cleaned, and it will have a higher viscosity than oil.

I usually apply grease on the worm with a child-sized tooth brush; I work it into the grooves and onto the outer circumference of the shaft, by moving the brush as shown by the blue arrows in the picture to the right. A Tip: If the reel has been disassembled, I’ll usually apply the grease after I’ve installed the bushing/bearing under the shaft gear, and before re-installing the components back in the frame. The grease won’t get scraped off the circumference of the worm when you install the bearing/bushing.

You can apply grease on the pawl and washer by putting a small dab between a finger and thumb as shown in the picture below; working it over their surfaces. A Tip: There’s no need to get carried with the oil or grease when lubricating the exposed level wind components, a small amount will go a long way!  You should monitor the condition of the lubricant anyway (no mater what you use), and replenish it when required. Of course you’ll clean the old off beforehand!

A Tip: I do not suggest cleaning and lubricating any level wind components with WD-40.  The light oil and water displacement property of the oil that is left behind, doesn’t last very long in the environment our fishing reels see, when compared to typical reel lubricants. Unfortunately, the light oil can also prevent reel lubricants from adhering properly – so it will need to be cleaned off anyway!

It usually isn’t necessary to lubricate non-metal idler or drive gears. They typically don’t experience a lot of wear, and are often made from a Delrin like resin or plastic, which won’t retain lubricant anyway. A Tip: If you do lubricate non-metal drive or idler gears with grease, you may end up with a subtle crackling sound whenever the worm shaft moves.  Tiny air bubbles can form in the grease with gear rotation, because it doesn’t adhere very well, and they will ‘pop’ with tooth contact.  The noise will eventually stop as the grease gets displaced from the teeth.

I never lubricated my bait cast non-disengaging level wind components with grease.  The increased lubricant friction from the higher apparent viscosity grease would significantly affect casting performance! Corrosion-X or Reel X may be a better option in salt or brackish water.

Putting It All Together

QUESTION: O.K. coach, I’ve got the specifics, but what about a big picture perspective on level wind performance?  Give it to me straight and don’t sugar-coat anything; tell me what I need to do [besides keeping things clean and lubricated]!

ANSWER: Unless the reel is subjected to extreme situations or what I’d consider abnormal use, most level wind problems will only gradually degrade with use. However, the maintenance you perform on the reel during the process can reduce the severity of problems and lengthen the replacement interval.  For instance, it is not uncommon for a level wind system to perform flawlessly for decades with routine cleaning and lubrication, required maintenance when problems are identified, and normal use.  However, it is also not uncommon for a level wind system to quickly degrade, if the reel is used in severe situations and/or not maintained. [There’s nothing “earth-shattering” in this regard; all mechanical systems usually perform similar.] Unfortunately, some anglers will neglect their reel and the level wind system fails (in the later case), resulting in more significant repairs.

It may help by thinking of things this way: Nipping small issues early will prevent them from degrading into larger problems.  So, doing the annual maintenance on a reel will work to a degree (i.e. many situations). But it would be better if you did something after noticing that subtle difference in the way the line looks on the spool; the new noise coming from the worm; or when the reel feels a bit harder to crank.  So, it will be best if you resolve a small problem sooner than later!

Troubleshoot Plans

Here’s a mini-troubleshooting plan you can use when you first begin to notice the line guide is no longer moving across the face of the spool. The steps are listed in order of most likely cause for this problem:

1. Check the pawl cap to see if it is loose. Make sure the pawl is in the worm groove and re-tighten the cap as previously described. While your at it, check the pawl and level wind to see if they need to be lubricated.
2. If the reel has a plastic gear on the worm shaft, check it to see if the gear is stripped. A Note: Not all reels use metal gears on the worm, and some of the round Abu’s have been noted for this problem.
3. Check to see if the gear is tightly mounted to the worm. Some reels use a screw to mount the gear to the worm.
4. Check to see that other gears that drive the worm are rotating properly, are not stripped, etc.
5. Inspect the worm and worm shaft for damage or wear. Replace as required.

An Example: I loosened a cap on an Alphas reel about 3 to 4 turns, and cranked in about 100 feet of line that was under moderate pull.  The left side of the picture below shows how the line normally lays on the spool. [Albeit,with a pawl that has seen moderate use, but with a tight cap].  The right side shows the same pawl with the loose cap.  If you look closely you’ll see how the line lays more uniformly on the left when compared to the right.  Also notice how the line lays at the top of the spool in the right side of the picture — it appears that the pawl would occasionally have difficulty switching taper with the loosened cap. A Note: I don’t necessarily suggest that you try this on your own reel, since you can inadvertently damage the pawl and/or worm shaft. The pawl tip might come out of the groove and end up scraping along the side of the shaft!

Comparison between fairly normal lay of line on an Alphas spool (left), and the same spool that had a loose pawl cap (right).

So, here’s another plan you can use when you first begin to notice: that line is no longer laying properly on the spool; the feel or noise from level wind components has changed; or if cranking becomes slightly different/harder and you suspect it’s due to the level wind.  The steps are listed in order of most likely cause for this problem:

1. Check the pawl cap to see if it is loose. Re-tighten the cap as previously described. Determine of the pawl needs to be lubricated.
2. Check the cleanliness of the worm shaft; see if debris has fouled the grooves or if it needs lubrication.
3. Unscrew the cap and check the condition of the guide washer and pawl. Specifically observe the condition of the crescent tips and crescent itself. Clean and re-lubricate, or replace as necessary. (See the first Tip in the next step for more information.)
4. Clean and check the condition of the worm. If the grooves are gouged or burred, the bottom is scored or badly worn, or edges of the groove have started to knurl over the outer circumference, then the worm should be replaced. Also consider replacing the pawl at the same time in this instance. A Tip: It may be O.K. to replace a pawl and not replace the worm if the worm is in decent condition; but should you need to replace a worm, do yourself a favor and also replace the pawl. [Based on my old Abu round bait cast experience.] Another Tip: It may be difficult to get the bearing/bushing under the drive gear off the worm shaft, should the edge of the groove start to knurl over. Do not try and force the bearing/bushing off the worm, since it can get stuck and you run the risk of damaging the bearing/bushing.  [Excess axial force across the balls (between the center race and outer race), can damage a miniature bearing.  In addition, the knurl will sometimes get torn and the burr can get dragged between the center race of the bearing and worm circumference, and they will jam hard!  Alternately, the knurl could deform or damage the inside of a bushing in this case.]  Put some tape over the side of the bearing to prevent debris from entering it, and file off or sand the knurled edge until the bearing will slide off. Replace the worm if it has knurled and determine what you’ve been doing to cause it!
5. Check the condition of the line guide and guard, to see if it is dirty or worn.
6. If the reel has a plastic gear on the worm shaft, check it to see if gear teeth are missing or damaged. A Note: Not all reels use metal gears on the worm, and some older reels have been noted for this problem.
7. Check to see if the worm shaft gear is still tightly mounted to the worm. Some reels use a screw to mount the gear to the worm, and it can work loose; allowing the worm to periodically slip on the shaft.
8. Check to see that other gears that drive the worm are rotating properly, and any bearings that support the worm shaft or idler gears are clean and properly lubricated.

Junkbox Time!

I scrounged through my junk box and came up with some interesting level wind parts that I’ve accumulated over the past few of seasons.  Although, I don’t have the history on some of these cases, I do have “suspicions.” Think of this section as a mini-Show N’ Tell if you like – for a few Extreme Case Histories!

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The picture to the left shows a blowup of a damaged TD-X worm; a nephew was cat fishing and used the reel body with the reel engaged, to pull a snag free while spooled with 60# braided line. Unfortunately, the pawl must have just started to enter that part of the groove where it begins to switch tapers (e.g. with the level wind guide positioned to the far side of the frame).  When he pulled the reel, the pointed area between the tapers was torn — and the bottom of the pawl contacted the groove wall on the other side. [The lower part of the point is almost totally gone, and the rip extended to the outer circumference of the worm.] The arrow shows the direction that the pawl took in causing the damage. Notice how the adjacent point between the grooves was also deformed, when the pawl contacted it after the first point broke. A lot of potential energy can be stored within the structure of taut braided line!

Unfortunately, I couldn’t find the pawl when I took this picture, but we found the broken tip jammed between what was left of the pawl and the second point. A Tip: Never use the reel to pull a snag free, especially with braided or very heavy line! Level wind components, gears, anti-reverse bearing and other parts can get damaged in the process. A Note: I enhanced the picture with a little post-processing to better show the damaged areas. Unfortunately, it also created a few more shadows than there otherwise would have been, on the rest of the worm and groove.  A Side Note: When we disassembled the reel the gears, anti-reverse bearing and other level wind components were not damaged; although the line guide was also cracked. Lucky, I suspect… Oh yeah, I have no idea where he came up with the 60# braided line!

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The picture at the left shows a guide washer sitting on one of my finger; I removed it from a scrap reel that I got with several others from a local tackle shop.  Note the two distinct blemishes caused by the flat part of the pawl – the washer is noticeably thinner in these two areas due to corrosion and repetitive pawl movement. (In fact, the whole washer was about half the thickness of a new one! YIKES!) The edges of the blemishes are also raised; the washer should have been replaced (or at least flipped over so the other side contacted the pawl), long before it got to this state. Periodic cleaning and lubrication would have also helped. [I even cleaned it up a little Naphtha before taking the picture.] A Tip: Although the washer on a Daiwa will start-off in the center of the pawl and pawl cap, it can move off-center should it need lubrication. This is due to the alternating movement of the pawl, and increased friction with the pawl and cap – causing it to become off-center. In this situation, the washer no longer protects the pawl cap from wear, as it eventually starts to move under the cap. As the picture shows, this probably occurred on two different occasions!

When you cranked the reel with the washer in this condition, you could feel the distinct scraping of the pawl as it rubbed under the pawl cap (by putting a finger on the pawl cap); and occasional ticking as the tip frequently lost contact with the bottom of the worm groove.  I was a little surprised; although the  guide moved erratically, the way the line laid didn’t seem to be affected nearly as much as I thought it would have been. The picture to the right shows the inside of the cap, if you look closely you can see that it has been significantly worn.

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The picture to the left shows a worn TD-X pawl, I took it out of a reel that was given to me for scrap parts.  Notice that the crescent tips and crescent itself has been badly worn. When I tested the reel the line guide would hang up on the palm plate side of the frame, and would not switch tapers unless I put significant pull on the line while cranking.  The lateral force on the guide from the line pull would eventually cause the pawl to switch tapers. [Go back up the page and look at a new pawl!]

The length of the pawl was also significantly reduced due to wear of the crescent itself. I suspect this contributed to the crescent also wearing shallower, than it normally would be on a new pawl – possibly over rotating inside the line guide as one of the crescent tips eventually made contact with a wall of the groove.  The pawl had obviously been used for a long time without proper lubrication or cleaning; the slight taper on the end of the tip is almost gone. A Note: I wish I had taken an as-found picture of the pawl when I removed it from the reel. However, that was long ago, and I cleaned it in Naphtha before tossing it in my junk box. The factory grease(?) was impregnated with aluminum wear products from the pawl and worm, and other debris.  I suspect it was used this way for a long-long-long time!

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The picture to the left shows a worm shaft from an early TD-S. The reel wouldn’t crank; the level wind was jammed tight!

When I disassembled the reel I found that the pawl tip was bent and was wedged on the side of the worm.  I suspect it fell victim to a loose pawl cap and worn guide washer; but cant’ really say what caused the pawl to finally come out of the groove, to end up where it did. The pawl itself was moderately worn, but it probably had a few more seasons in it — if it hadn’t met an untimely demise.

The level wind was in the worst shape, but the pinion gear was also damaged, probably due to the previous owner attempting to crank the reel with the pawl jammed hard.

As Usual: I’m not associated with any retailers or manufacturers mentioned in this blog.

...by the way:

-dModder

Tags: bait casters, cleaning, Daiwa, level wind, Maintenance, modifications

This entry was posted on Tuesday, December 15th, 2009 at 1:42 am and is filed under Bass Fishing, Fishing, Maintenance, Reels. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.