I’ve been tinkering with Daiwa spool braking components for the past few years.  Fooling with things like inductors, tabs, springs and other parts found on the low profiled bait casters.  Unfortunately, I don’t think Daiwa really intended for anyone to work on them; it can be a challenge that requires patience, skill and dexterity. But if you are spool modder you have no choice….

So let’s spend some time exploring Magforce spool components. I’ll introduce the three different Magforce designs, explain how to disassemble and reassemble a Magforce V and Z spool, and show you a couple of tools that will help. Lastly, this blog will provide a foundation for the spool mechanics underlying the braking designs, which I’ll build upon later.

Beware The Other Darkside…

I’m going to cover some more-advanced bench activities in this blog, when I get into disassembling a spool.  Trust me, it is not my intent to get everyone who reads it, to go out and start tearing theirs apart.  In fact, it can be frustrating and isn’t as easy as it looks – and you can quickly ruin a spool just by simply loosing or damaging the wrong part.

Unfortunately, the chipped TD-Z +R spool at the left serves as a good example for what can happen if you venture into spool modding [yep,  The Other Dark Side].  It slipped out of my hands as I was taking pictures for this blog!

If your spool’s magnetic braking system isn’t working properly, try cleaning and exercising the components as described in the Polishing the Sol Article; no dis-assembly is required.  If that doesn’t solve the problem, then you might want to seriously consider sending the reel to a good service tech, or just get another spool. If it sounds like I’m trying to get you to think twice about disassembling your spool …I am.

Even though I’ll show you the best methods and tools I’ve found so far, I would be remiss if I didn’t point out that there are risks that should be considered beforehand. It’s easy to damage a spool; and it can happen in less time than it took you to read this sentence!  “Beware the Other Dark Side …and Tread Carefully!” [familiar quote borrowed from a TT Admin, …and modded by –dModder]

Now I need to cover a little background information. So let’s start with the spools and Magforce design.

Magforce Spool Basics

Daiwa employs three different braking configurations on their spools; the Magforce, Magforce V and Magforce Z braking systems.  The difference in the Magforce designs is primarily related to the spool braking components and what occurs as the spool rotates.  There is a close correlation between the  braking system selected in design, and the applications the reel is intended for. All three designs will be found on bait cast reels being sold today.

Magforce

In the Magforce design, the spool inductor is fixed to the spool (and really can’t be removed), so braking torque developed during a cast or pitch is directly related to spool speed.  Simply put; more speed, then more braking torque; less speed, then less braking torque. [Check out the Exploring Magnetic Brakes Blog if you want more  information on the theory.]

The Presso, Big Bait Special, TD-X 100HSD and Viento are some examples of recent reels that use a simple Magforce design. The previous picture shows the fixed inductor on a Viento spool and the picture below shows a BBS and early TD-X inductor.

Fixed Magforce spool inductors on the Big Bait Special (left) and early TD-X (right).

Magforce V

Daiwa introduced the Magforce V braking system after the simple Magforce braking system. Magforce V features a design that doesn’t have a fixed inductor; instead the inductor is designed to move axially on the spool shaft. Centrifugal force acting on tabs that slide on the inside wall of a tapered spool, causes the braking inductor to slowly move further into the braking magnets. The net effect is that more braking torque not only gets developed by increased spool speed, but now, even more torque is developed the further the inductor moves into the magnets.  As you may recall from my first magnetic braking blog, braking torque also increases when more of the inductor surface is exposed to magnetic flux. It’s no wonder that many referred to Magforce V as a more advanced design when it was introduced; since it provides additional braking torque when backlash is most likely to occur. Technically, it is a centrifugal-variable eddy current braking design.

The spring loaded inductor moves back out of the magnets as spool speed decreases toward the end of the cast (centrifugal force acting on the tabs falls off). So braking torque not only drops due to reduced spool speed, but also, because less inductor surface is exposed to magnetic flux.

The Magforce V braking system is found on the Steez 103H/100SHA/103SHA, TD-Z 103/105s, TD-X 103HSDF, Pixy, Alphas, Sol and many other reels today.

Exercising a Sol Magforce V braking system.

Magforce Z

Daiwa released their Magforce Z braking system a few years later. In many ways it is similar to the Magforce V design, but the tabs don’t slide on the wall of a tapered spool. Instead they run on a special tapered ring that is integral with the spool or a machine-tapered collar within the spool.  So, the new design allows the use of the advanced braking design on deep-bottomed spools that have flat sides.  But wait, there’s more! The angle of the tab ring, mass of the tabs and design of the other braking components can be selected to provide even more braking during the highest spool velocities, and a much-less braking above and below that.

The net effect is that higher spool speeds might be achieved with Magforce Z braking, since most of the additional braking torque is heavily applied only during the most critical part of a cast (when backlash would begin to occur) – making it best suited for higher speed casting and/or with heavier weighted lures. [Check out the Backlash, Magnetic Braking and Spool Tension Blog for more information.] It’s no wonder, that some view it as a more efficient design for higher speed presentations.

The Magforce Z braking system is found on the Steez 100H/SH, Zillions, Fuego, TD-A 153HST/HSTA and other reels.

Steez 100H Magforce Z spool.

Remember when I said there was a close correlation between the  braking system selected in a reels design, and the applications the reel is intended for?  I know it’s dangerous to generalize, but in many ways it becomes most apparent when you look at tuning, which is the next step in the evolution of the Magforce design!  A Note: I’ve provided a 10,000 foot level explanation of the Magforce braking designs, and left out much of the detail. Stay tuned for future blogs.

The Mechanics

I don’t recall ever seeing a Daiwa schematic that identified individual Magforce V or Z spool Part Numbers. Heck, I don’t remember ever seeing a schematic with Part Names, even though Key Numbers are assigned to them. So, I’ve taken the liberty to provide my own names for this blog, and you can refer to them in the picture below. The majority of the parts I’ll discuss are identified in red.

A Steez 103H Magforce V spool schematic.

Removing the c-clip on the spool shaft is what makes disassembling  a Magforce V and Z spool so challenging.  (Yep, that’s that little devil in the center of the picture at the top of this blog; Part No. 18 in the schematic above.) It snaps into a collar on the spool shaft and keeps the clip washer, brake spring, insulator/inductor and braking tabs mounted on the spool shaft.

So coach, what’s so bad about the c-clip anyway? It doesn’t look like removing it is that complicated. What am I missing? An Aside: -dModder takes a deep breath, pauses and finally admits; “That’s what I thought the first few times I tried”. Here’s some more information; it provides detail, insight and tips:

• The c-clip is mounted on the inside of the spool inductor, and the inductor is ~5/8” inside diameter. There is about ¼” open radius around the outside of the clip, so you can work on it.
• Unlike an e-clip, there are no slots on the back side of the c-clip that you can get a screwdriver or knife tip into, to slide it from its mount. So the two angled tips are the only parts of the clip that are readily accessible.  In addition, the clip itself has some moderate internal spring force, so it’s going to take some effort and the right tools to remove it.
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  The picture to the left compares the size and profile of the c-clip (left), to a typical frame e-clip (right). A Tip: Save your XACTO knife blades and don’t try to use one to pry into the backside of the clip. The fit is too close, approach angle is too steep and clip internal spring force is just too high. Trust me when I say it will be difficult getting the broken knife tip back out of the groove! Another Tip: If you loose the c-clip, don’t try to substitute an e-clip unless you find one that is the exact same inside diameter. A Daiwa frame e-clip will ripple and jam inside in the groove if you try to force it in. [Good luck trying to find an e-clip!]
• The clip is also mounted up to ¼” below the outside edge of the inductor on most spools, so you essentially have to go inside the inductor to get at it. That rules out many of the typical tools you might have otherwise been able to use. Unfortunately, if the spool is equipped with Magforce Z braking, it can be up to ½” below the outside edge of the inductor. A Tip: If you are going to attempt to disassemble and reassemble a spool for the first time, go with a Magforce V spool!
• The clip is under slight compression force from the spring and clip washer below it. So, catching both tips at the same time with a tool is tricky, and you can damage the washer and spring if not careful. But it can be done, as long as you aren’t concerned about the attempt-to-success ratio!  A Hint: Moving the washer and spring out of the way will help. I realized the advantage of doing this very early on, but struggled finding “just the right things” that also still allowed full access to the clip….
• The inductor needs to move freely into/from the braking magnets as spool speed changes. So you need to be very careful not to blemish surfaces that affect movement.  [Side of the spool, braking tabs, spool shaft, etc.] Also make sure you don’t blemish the tip of the spool that fits inside the palm plate, it can result in erratic performance and noise under various spool tension settings. Any scratches or gouges will need to be dressed-up before reassembly. A Tip: A head-worn magnifying visor sure comes in handy when working on the clip or inspecting for blemishes!
• While fumbling around with various tools, you also need to keep the spool steady, and position it in front of a light so you can try and see what’s going on.  You’ll have to put some ‘odd’ forces on the spool shaft and tips of the clip during removal, which also means, it might need to be periodically repositioned. A Testimonial: My wife still “reminds” me about the first few attempts she “helped” me with. It seems like yesterday every time she still brings it up! [I quickly realized that I needed to get the process to the point that I didn’t need a couple extra hands!] A Tip: A small hobby vice will hold the bearing end of the spool if you want to compromise; just don’t use one with metal jaws, and remove the pin and bearing beforehand. Also, don’t crush the side of the spool or scratch the tip of the shaft! A Teaser: But if you use the spool tools I’ll describe later, you won’t need a vice.
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• Lastly, when you get the clip part of the way out of the collar – stand by….  The clip internal spring force can cause it to “pop-out” and escape all the tools you have crammed inside the inductor! Yep, you guessed it; getting lost amongst the rest of the junk circling the plant! A Big Tip: Unfortunately, you can’t let that happen since it is a key component needed for reassembly; and is not easily replaced. A Note: Although the internal spring force of the c-clip isn’t quite as high as most e-clips in the frame of a Daiwa reel, you will still want to take action to prevent it from getting launched.

After reading the previous bullets you’ve probably sensed how awkward and delicate it can be to remove the clip. However it can be done; but use the wrong tools and you’ll spend more time and effort ‘slipping off the clip’, instead of getting it removed. A Confession: I’ll be the first one to admit that disassembling a spool was something I didn’t like to do for a long time. Hey, I like to be in control of things, and getting the clip out was clearly one case where I felt I was not! So I began trying different tools and techniques to improve the success-to-attempt ratio. I was on a mission; secretly driven by the need to find an easier and better way; I was traveling The Other Dark Side! A Note: I’ve periodically exchanged email and PMs with a few other active spool modders, and their experience is remarkably similar to mine.

In general, I’ve found that the best way to disassemble a Magforce V and Z spool is to use a 2-step process:

1. Compress the clip washer and brake spring to get them out of the way, and then
2. Use a tool to spread the c-clip tips apart while also pushing the clip from its groove.

The tools I cover in the next two sections focus on each step.  Keeping things simple works the best!

Spool Compression Tool

I’ve used all sorts of things to compress the washer and spring over the years. Stuff like tiny wire zip-ties, locking plastic tweezers, super-miniature alligator clips, modified surgical clamps, carefully bent wires, and even some things that I don’t care or want to remember.  (They all worked to a degree, just not as well as I wanted.) I eventually made a tool that I’ve been using for the past few months; it’s gone through a couple re-designs, so I’ll show you how to make my latest version. Relax! It is actually quite simple to make, I call it a spool compression tool.

Starting to make another spool compression tool….

Using the compression tool is simple, straight forward and a time-saver. (In fact I just disassembled a Sol spool in about 30 seconds as I was writing this blog.)  It can be used with one-hand (leaving the other hand free to remove the clip), and if used properly can reduce the potential for loosing the c-clip. Lastly, it still leaves plenty of room in the inductor, so you can get at the clip! My success-to-attempt ratio took a nice improvement after I started using it.  [An Aside: Hmmmm, this paragraph does sound like a Billy Mays infomercial, doesn’t it? That wasn’t my intent; so don’t ask; I won’t make one for anyone else. Hey, even a Jedi Knight has to make his own light saber!]

The compression tool is made from a strip of sheet aluminum that is 0.6 mm thick. (If you don’t have any scrap aluminum, you might find it in a hobby shop or hardware store. [0.6 mm = ~.024”]) The strip is 9 mm x 60 mm in size and I’ve provided a cutting and bending template below.

Note that the two ends of the strip are different. One end has a “Crow Foot,” where extra material has been removed, so it fits over the spool shaft and contacts the top of the spring washer inside the inductor.  The other end is for an “Edge Catch,” that lightly hooks over the edge on the other side of the spool, to keep it aligned and in position.  The light blue dashed lines show the location of the ~90º bends you make to shape the tool. (If you add up the distances between the various ends and bend locations, it will come out to 60 mm.) A Note: There is nothing critical about any of the dimensions, so no need to get your caliper out, as long as you are reasonably close– but bending the strip will be (as described later).

Spool compression tool cutting and bending template.

Use a pair of tin snips to cut the strip to the size and shape shown in the template.  Then use a fine file to knock down any sharp edges, burrs, etc. Finish by lightly polishing the edges with some 600 wet-and-dry sand paper or a dremel wheel and a little buffing compound. A Tip: It’s a lot easier if you dress-up and polish the edges before you bend the strip into shape, instead of doing it afterward!  In addition, there’s no need to get carried away with the filing and polishing, you only want to reduce the possibility of scratching the spool and other components during installation and use.

Spool compression tool made from a strip of  aluminum sheet.

Next, use a square to draw the bend marks on the strip as shown in the template, and bend it into the shape shown above.  You can use a pair of long nose pliers to make the bends, just make sure the pliers edge you bend against runs perpendicular to the side of the strip, before you bend. A Note: The tool will be lopsided and won’t work as well if the bends are not perpendicular. […how would I know that?] A Tip: Try to make a bend only once, because the thin aluminum will weaken the more times you bend it. This can allow the corner to flex instead of the pieces on each side of it as you use the tool, and it can eventually fail at the corner.

Lightly polish the edges at the corners after making the bends, to catch any burrs or bulges created while bending. Some Thoughts: I used to put a length of tape on the inside surface of the tool, the first few that I made.  But I stopped doing it because of problems.  On one hand I felt I needed the tape to protect the spool and inductor from getting scratched or blemished. On the other hand, it made installation of the crow foot between the c-clip and washer more difficult, the tape would eventually start to peel off, and it occasionally left adhesive on spool components.  I’ve probably used a tool 50 different times without tape now, and haven’t had any problems, but I’ll let you decide for yourself…. Some Tips (if you go with the tape): A single layer of tape is all you’ll need, and you can trim-off any extra from the edges.  (Excess or loose tape can interfere with using the tool.)  Lastly, a single-continuous strip of tape is less likely to hang-up when using the tool and it doesn’t tend to peel off as easily, when compared to separate pieces. A Blog Note: I didn’t use any tape on the tools used for the pictures in this blog.

Checking fit of completed compression tool on a TD-S spool.

Once you have the tool made, you are ready to install and check it on a spool.  The easiest way to install the tool is to start inserting the crow foot between the bottom of the c-clip and top of the washer first, and then compress the washer as you move the catch onto the edge at the other side of the spool.  With the edge catch in position, the crow foot should compress the washer and spring about half-way through their travel, as shown below. (Although this is usually not far enough for removing the c-clip, it will be fine for now.)

Detailed view of the compression tool mounted on spool.

The tool should also remain in this position when you reorient the spool and lay it on its side. (You’ll want to be able to do this right before you grab your clip tool and get ready to remove the clip.) If not, then carefully bow the sides slightly, to get the correct orientation.  Lastly, press on the top part of the tool and verify that the crow foot stays in contact with the top of the washer as the crow foot compresses the spring the rest of the way, and the other side of the tool moves down the side of the spool. A Tip: If it doesn’t stay in contact with the washer as you compress the top of the tool, then you’ve made the width of the opening in the crow foot too big, or one or more of the bends is not perpendicular to the side of the tool. Unfortunately, you’ll probably need to start over with a new strip.

To remove the compression tool from the spool, press on the top of the tool and move the catch away from the edge of the spool, then slowly release the pressure on the washer from the crow foot as you remove the tool from the inductor. A Note: You can see how much room is available for getting at the clip with the tool installed in the previous picture. If you look closely, you can also see the spool shaft below the c-clip, to gain a perspective of its relative size compared to the clip. Only about .3 mm on each side of the clip hangs over the side of the spool shaft. Another Note: You can remove the c-clip by catching the over-hang on each side of a tip while moving it horizontally out of the groove. However, it requires a lot more force to do it because you are not only moving the clip, but also overcoming the internal spring force of the clip in the same motion. I did that for a while, before I finally came up with better clip removal methods and tools.

Clip Tools

I’ve also slowly changed the tools used to remove the c-clip over the years. Screwdrivers, modified screwdrivers, fine tipped pliers, surgical tweezers, homemade jigs and some really weird things (that I’ll get to later), were all put to test.  Some worked better than others, some didn’t work at all, and still others even caused minor damage.  I won’t go into these tools, so I can get to what I’m currently using.

The light eventually went off, in the process of trying various tools, devices and methods to remove the clip! I found that I had best success putting more effort into relaxing the internal spring force of the clip, while also putting less effort into pushing it out of the groove.  In other words, “brute force” would work; but you don’t need to use nearly as much, if you also relaxed the c-clip at the same time!

The picture to the left shows the forces applied as you remove the clip using various tools. The top inset is what I call the Brute Force Method; it works, but is hard to control and can cause minor surface damage near the groove and on the edges of the clip. The middle inset shows what occurs if you relax the internal spring force in the clip; but that’s about all it does, and it doesn’t remove the clip.  The bottom inset shows the best approach; it combines the forces from the previous two cases. The problem is finding or making a tool that will do both; while still catching the clip and not causing damage.

Now this is going to get weird, so bear with me….  I eventually found a great tool in my wife’s cosmetic cabinet! [Hey, I left no stone un-turned when searching for the right tool!] They are called by different names in the beauty trade – but I just simply call them an “Eyebrow Plucker.”  Yep, ladies use them to “dress-up” their eyebrows, and they kind of look like a cross between a tweezers and a pair of small scissors that have flat and tapered tips on the ends. The last set that my wife picked up for me cost $1.29 at Walmart. [Whew! I feel a lot better, now that that’s out in the open!]

A cheap eyebrow plucker works great for removing the c-clip!

The plucker ends are fairly sharp, so you can catch the inside of the tips on the clip without much effort, and they are made from a softer metal that won’t readily damage the harder stainless steel components. They have handles on them that you use with a finger and thumb (on your free hand); which gives you more control while sliding the clip out of the groove, and allows you to open them ever-so-slightly to relax the internal spring force of the clip. My success-to-attempt ratio is ~8:10 (80%) right now, and most times I’ll nail a clip on the first try! It’s no wonder that I finally started to enjoy disassembling a spool….

There are even some subtle advantages to the cheaply made ‘pluckers. Here are some that I’ve realized since I started using them: They are easy to find; not that expensive to replace; you can bend the handle openings so your finger and thumb will fit inside a little easier (they seem to be made for a lady with a small hand?); the tapered ends allow the tips of the clip to slide a bit as you slightly open them during use; and the tips can be dressed-up with a file. [An Aside: Yeah I know, …another infomercial.]

Disassembly

Now that you have the right tools, I’ll explain my procedure for removing the clip and disassembling the spool:

1. With the compression tool installed on the spool, carefully rotate the clip in its groove with a screwdriver tip. (You’ll need to hold the edge of the spool so it won’t turn with the clip, while mounted in the compression tool.)  This will ensure that the clip is free to move, and will loosen any corrosion or debris at the connection.  A Tip: The spool clip could be partly corroded into the groove, since it’s probably never been removed before. I had this happen on a scrap Alphas ito spool that a forum member gave me. I suspect the spool had been used in salt water. Another Tip: If you have a lot of corrosion or debris, it might be wise to clean things up a bit before proceeding. I’ve only had one clip get totally stuck during removal, and I thought I’d never get it out – but destroyed the clip in the process. Thinking about it later, I wished that I had sprayed some Reel Magic or put a drop of WD-40 on it beforehand. A Note: If there is no visible corrosion and the tip turns freely at the connection, then I don’t necessarily recommend cleaning [or lubricating] the components. I’ve found the c-clip will tend to “pop-off” further, if you do this!
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2. Rotate the clip so the open tips are lined up with the opening at the end of the crow foot, and with both facing away from the part of the tool that comes out of the inductor. [You’ll want to orient it this way, so the force you apply to move the clip presses against your thumb, as described in the next step.] The picture to the left shows the compression tool mounted on an Alphas spool, notice the relationship between the clip tips and the crow foot. A Note: You can position the clip by either rotating it in the groove, or carefully turning the whole spool in the compression tool. But the tool might fit more tightly on some spools, so that’s why I had you rotate the clip instead. A Tip: Leave the spool orientated so the inductor is generally facing upward, as you complete the remaining steps. Not only will you be able to see better, it will prevent the clip and parts on the spool shaft from spilling out and getting lost, after the clip is removed! [Again, don’t ask me how I know this.]
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3. Use your thumb on the hand holding the spool, to also press down on the top of the compression tool, so the washer and spring are fully compressed. (No need to go overboard with the pressing, you just want to establish plenty of room between the top washer and the clip.) As you do this, try to cover the area between the inside of the inductor and side of the spool tip with the bottom of your thumb, and allow your thumb tip to rest against the side of the spool shaft. A Note: It’s a little difficult explaining how to position your thumb, so I provided the picture at the left. (The clip tips are barely visible in the picture, but are still oriented the same direction from Step 2.) The bottom of the spool is supported by the fingers of your hand and your thumb, so the spool is firmly grasped. A Tip: Covering this area with your thumb will help prevent loosing the clip if it pops-out of the groove.  If it does, most of the time it will hit the vertical face of the tool and bottom of your thumb, and will come to rest on the insulator under the crow foot. In addition, you’ll be able to control the force you apply on the spool a little better, if your thumb tip also contacts the side of the spool shaft (as you move the clip toward it). Lastly, having your thumb on the backside of the spool shaft will limit any damage should your clip tool slip, because the tool tips will contact the front sides of your thumb and will straddle the spool shaft! By The Way: Although you’ve taken some steps to prevent loosing the clip, it still could get lost – there are just too many variables involved. I don’t think I’ve ever lost a clip since I started using both tools and procedure I’ve outlined, but there is always the potential for a “first time.”  So, you need to keep that in mind and take action as you deem necessary. A Thought: I initially thought about putting a very small wad of  lint-free fabric, loosely in the inductor area under my thumb and where the clip will move to while sliding it out. However, I haven’t needed to as yet; but it should stop that little devil from flying around — and catch it if it did!
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4. Start the end of the plucker into the inductor. While keeping the plucker parallel with the spool shaft, slightly open it, so the top on each plucker tip contacts a tip on the clip.
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5. Apply force toward your thumb with the plucker to maintain contact with the clip tips, and then begin to barely open the plucker with your finger and thumb.  As you gradually open the plucker also increase the force on the plucker with your thumb tip that is on the spool shaft (the  hand holding the compression tool); the clip should slide out of the groove.  A Note: It is harder explaining this, than it is doing it. But once you actually see what’s going on, you’ll understand what you need to do. In essence, you’ll overcome the clips internal spring force as you simultaneously move the clip out of the groove – all in one fluid motion. It may seem a little unnatural the first couple times you do it, but you’ll eventually get better at it.
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6. Make sure you locate the c-clip before removing the compression tool. Sometimes it can end up sitting on part of the crow foot, and might get lost when you remove the compression tool.
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7. Retrieve the clip and put it in a safe location before proceeding. A Note: I was actually completing this step when I damaged the TD-Z +R spool. I had relaxed my grip on the spool, and then realized the clip was still on the insulator. The spool slipped out of my hand and fell ~18″ onto the hard surface of the workbench, when I went to retrieve the clip.
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8. Braking components are free to come off the spool shaft once the clip has been removed. So refer to the schematic for your reel, to get familiar with the individual components, configuration and orientation as you remove them.
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   A Note: You’ll need to know how things go back together, since I won’t provide much detail for reassembly. There are just too many reel models with different configurations!
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   Another Note: The configuration of braking systems can be subtly different. Some may include an extra washer beneath the insulator/inductor, and others won’t even have one.  Some Magforce Z spools can even have a tapered collar. So make sure you have the exact schematic for your reel model and follow along!
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9. I use tweezers when I remove the braking components from the spool. My crippled old fingers just don’t work as well as they once did – and some parts are very small and too easy to drop.
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   Put each braking component in a safe location as you remove it. The spring is so light that it can easily roll off a workbench with a light wisp of air;  and a braking tab can easily be crushed if you happen to step on it.
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   A Tip: The braking tabs will come out of the spool along with the inductor/insulator. They will fall out of their grooves in the insulator if you tip them on their side, and they can easily get lost.
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The picture below shows: the top of the insulator/inductor; back of the insulator; back side of a braking tab (yes, it’s hollow inside); and all TD-S spool components together. I’ll have more about all of them in future blogs!

Disassembled Magforce V TD-S spool components.

Reassembly

Reassembling the spool is not very difficult, so I won’t go into much detail. Instead, I’ll provide a few notes and tips that will help keep you out of trouble:

• Check the spool shaft, groove and other hardware for evidence of scratches, gouges or other blemishes that may cause the braking components to hang-up. Dress them very lightly with a small piece of very-fine wet-and-dry sand paper, only if required. A Tip: Just don’t get carried away with dressing things up and make sure you remove any debris that you create. You can clean components in a mixture of dilute Simple Green, just be sure to rinse them well afterward.
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• Use the schematic for your reel to reinstall braking components back onto the spool, it is fairly straight-forward.
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  Be sure the tapered sides of the spool tabs are oriented in the insulator, so they make proper contact with the side of the spool or tapered ring. [The picture to the left shows how the tabs mount in the insulator, in case you have a doubt.] You can reinstall braking components on some spools, with these tabs upside down, and the braking system won’t work at all!
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  The groove in the back side of the insulator will fit over the pin that is on the spools shaft. The pin keeps the inductor from rotating on the spool shaft, while also allowing the insulator to travel into and from the magnets in the palm plate.
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  A Tip: Leave the spool orientated so the inductor is generally facing upward, as you reinstall the braking components.
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• Install the compression tool to partially compress the washer and spring, after you get all components back on the spool shaft.  You’ll eventually want sufficient clearance, so you can press the clip back in the groove.
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• Although reinstalling the c-clip is not nearly as difficult as removing it, the process does require a steady hand and a little dexterity. So, I use tweezers or long nose pliers to place the clip tips into the groove before pressing it in. There should be plenty of room to do this with the compression tool installed on the spool.
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  Unfortunately, the c-clip will want to slide out of the groove and fall onto the insulator with the slightest movement. Most of the time this seems to happen just before you get ready to press it back onto the spool shaft.  So, the longer you fumble with the clip, the more chances you have to loose it. By The Way: The clip can spring out of the groove, if you should happen to not get it all the way in!
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  A Tip: Rub/lay the clip on a NIB magnet for a few minutes, so it becomes slightly magnetized.  The tips of the clip will remain in the groove and the clip won’t roll off the spool shaft nearly as easily. Another Tip: Resist the urge to use a tiny dab of grease, drop of oil, adhesive, etc. to restrain the clip. It could be difficult to clean-off and just may migrate down the spool shaft, and affect the proper movement of the insulator/inductor. A drop of water placed on the groove with a fingertip will work better than nothing; as long as you don’t drink a lot of caffeine that morning!
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• I use a pair of flat-nosed pliers to push the clip back into its groove. A Tip: I do not suggest using a pair of serrated tipped pliers; no need to risk blemishing the back side of the groove.
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• After you get the clip back in, exercise braking components to ensure they don’t hang-up, the tabs are free to move, etc.  You’ll find more info at the end of the Sol article, should you need it. Then put the spool back in the reel and make a few practice casts. Link: http://www.tackletour.com/reviewtdsolpolishingpg2.html

Wrap-Up

If you’re content using other tools, methods, etc. to disassemble your Daiwa spool, far be it from me to get you to change.  I know there are other ways to get it done (been there and done most), and that’s great!  I admit I still haven’t found “The Holy Grail” when it comes to spool tools; but I think I’m getting closer!
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An Aside: Spool modders are a secretive lot – keeping most things to themselves. They hardly ever write much about how they work on their spools, or even what they’ve been up to….  I have to admit it is difficult explaining some of the more delicate steps, discoveries that others can build on, personal thoughts, etc.; and maybe that’s why?

Pitching Note (for spool modders): If you only feather your thumb while using your Daiwa pitching reel; you might give it a try without any braking components installed on the spool. Even though you probably turn the magnets off while pitching, there will still be a slight amount of magnetic flux that finds its way to the inductor. In addition, the reduction in spool mass can also make a noticeable difference in pitching performance. For example, the mass of the TD-S spool shown in the pictures without any braking components is ~84% of the mass with braking components! A ported or other lighter spool might be even better; since braking components do add considerable incremental mass.[Just be extremely careful trying to cast without any braking components on the spool!]

A Reflection: I still remember the first time I successfully disassembled and reassembled a spool. In many ways, I felt like a young boy who just got his first kiss [from a girl other than his mom].  The elation wasn’t so much about what had happened; but what might happen later! I had visions of +R tuned Pixillas and TD-Zs with Pixy inductors dancing in my head (in the recent case)!  Little did I know, it was actually The Other Dark Side calling…. spool modding!

By the way, I’m not associated with any beauty product or retailer mentioned in this blog (nor do I want to be). I’m just a happy spool modder who finally doesn’t mind disassembling his Magforce spools …and doesn’t pluck his eyebrows in case you were wondering!

Once you get the hang of working on the spool, things do get easier. Unfortunately, that’s also the most likely time you can become too casual or complacent about things, and get careless – just like I did with the +R spool. I’m also sure over-confidence, distractions and poor judgment were contributing factors.

The Other Dark Side is littered with potholes….

-dModder

Tags: bait casters, cleaning, Daiwa, magnetic braking, Maintenance, modifications

This entry was posted on Friday, November 13th, 2009 at 2:58 am and is filed under Bass Fishing, Maintenance, Reels. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.