If you work on many reels, it won’t take long before you realize that the tools you use can have a direct influence on the final outcome.  Simply put, wrong tools can result in damaged parts, lost time and frustration. Right tools can result in a reel that’s in much better condition than before, minimal effort and satisfaction from completing a professional job! No secret here; it’s a fundamental view shared by many reel techs, and the topic gets plenty of focus at most industrial assembly and maintenance-repair facilities.

So, let’s spend a little blog time looking at the tools used to work on bait cast reels. I’ll share some of my experience, thoughts and a few tips along the way. I know the information will be helpful to those just starting (based on the PM’s and email I get), and might provide some new ideas for others.

A Side Note: I’ve tried to cover the typical items you’ll need for your bait cast reels, but am sure I forgot a few.  So, don’t be afraid to contribute or provide comments about anything I may have missed – it will help those just getting started!  On the other hand, I suppose some might feel I’ve included a few items that aren’t really necessary; and that’s fine, I tried to identify them in the blog.  However, I’m retired now and like to make things easy ‘while at the bench’, and so do my fishing buddies who use my workshop! Lastly, I’m not associated with any of the manufacturers or retailers discussed in this blog.

Screwdrivers

A good set of smaller-sized screwdrivers is probably the most important tools you’ll need for you bait cast reels, and I suggest you get them before any others. You’ll need a set that covers a range of sizes and tip styles for your reels. They should be durable, easy to use, and finely finished so they grasp correctly.  [In an emergency while on the water, you might be able to get by with that 50-in-1 multi-tool, but the workbench is no place for compromise!]

Frame screws can be especially difficult to remove, primarily due to their small size, fine threads and close proximity to other components.  In addition, many reel manufacturers use thread sealant on them during assembly to reduce the possibility of coming loose, which can result in galled and corroded threads. So they can be extremely difficult to remove, especially if they’ve never been removed before! It’s important to note that a stripped head, damaged threads or a break-off in the frame can occur very quickly, should you use the wrong screw driver or get carried away!  Trust me when I say drilling and extracting a screw is no fun and takes a lot of courage – especially when it might not have been damaged in the first place, if the proper screwdriver was used!

Side plate screws present a little different problem.  Although the threads seldom have sealant on them, they are still small and have fine threads.  In addition, they are often finely finished and in very close proximity to painted or anodized components on the outside of the reel.  So, you run the risk of cosmetic damage if your screw driver slips because it was the wrong size or in poor condition, – which can be a subtle “I told you so” every time you see that scratched paint, chip or gouge on your reel.

Tips on Wiha screwdrivers still look almost new after a couple years of hard use! Notice the precision machining and satin finish still on the tips!

I’ve been using Wiha precision screwdrivers for a couple years now and I can honestly say they are the best I’ve ever used.  Mine still look new even though they’ve seen a lot of use. Yes they are a little pricey, but trust me when I say you get what you pay for and they are worth it. More specifically:

• They are made from hardened German machine steel and have tips which won’t wear or knurl during use.
• Are finely machined for an exact fit.
• The satin finish on the tip keeps them from slipping, yet it’s easy to keep the ends free of grease or debris.
• The profile is just the right size for your palm.
• The finger cap on the top of the handle makes them quick and easy to use.
• Edges are hard and sharp; so you can use them to slide an e-clip from its groove or push the side of a bearing clip from its mounting ring.
• They can be magnetized if desired. (Some reel techs like magnetized drivers for installing screws, picking up small loose springs/clips, etc. Sears, Wiha and many hardware stores sell a small tool magnetizer and de-magnetizer.)

You can buy Wiha’s individually at many hobby shops or a kit of typical sizes and blade styles from their website. They will occasionally go on sale at reduced prices every few months, so watch the Wiha website.

What set do you need for most reels? I recommend Kit #26199 – Slotted & Phillips Tools; 8 Piece Precision Set. It includes slotted blades in 1, 2, 3, & 4mm and Phillips tips in #000, #00, #0 & #1. I have a set for the workshop, place down at the lake, and my line-reel bag that I take on trips.

You might also need a ¼” and 3/8” slot blade screwdriver for some reels.  However, the screws you’ll us them on are not nearly as critical or as difficult to remove, so standard harder-tipped screwdrivers should be fine. I happen to use Stanley or Cobalt screwdrivers that I got at Menards, there’s nothing special about them.

Some Tips: Here are some tips related to your precision screwdrivers. Most are common sense, yet are worth noting:

• Store them in a designated location, and put them back when you are done using them.  Trust me when I say: “If the specific one you need isn’t handy, chances are you won’t use it!”, and “If you can’t find the one you need, you definitely won’t use it!” [–dModder quotes from his experience over the years!]
• Resist the urge to use screwdrivers for other applications.  Your Wiha’s aren’t made to scribe metal, countersink nails, stir liquids, scrap off rust or paint, etc. In fact, don’t use them for anything but your reels!
• Don’t pry with them; although the tips may be very hard, they might break if abused.
• Keep them clean and free of any grease, oil, or corrosion. Store them separately from other tools that can rust.

I spent a lot of blog space on screwdrivers, but did I mention that a good set of smaller-sized screwdrivers is probably the most important tools you’ll need for you bait cast reels?

Pliers

All of the pliers that I use for reels are mini-sized (5” size). Not only do they fit my hands better, they don’t seem to be as bulky or awkward to use around a bass reel frame, when compared to larger pliers. But I admit that’s just my preference, and you’ll want to go with whatever size you are comfortable with! So, if all of your reels are “big rounds” or if you have very large-sized hands, you may want to go with standard or larger sized pliers.

I’ve previously discussed my spool pin pliers in the Upgrading Daiwa Spool Bearings blog. They were also made from a pair of mini-sized duck bill pliers, and I strongly suggest you make your own!

Almost all of my pliers also have smooth or satin finished inside tips, which allow you to firmly grasp a part or component, while reducing the potential for surface blemishes or other damage.  In fact, I try to minimize the use of serrated tipped pliers at my workbench, whenever I can.

Craftsman sells a 5 piece set that includes a pair of smooth long nose, bent nose and needle nose pliers.  The set also comes with a small diagonal cutter and end cutter that I use while spooling line.  The grips make them comfortable to use, and they frequently go on sale at Sears or you can search Amazon.

Spinner and Socket

Most of the handle nuts or outer handle screws on bass reels are 10mm in size. I’ve found that a six-point 10mm deep-well socket mounted on a ¼” spinner handle works well for most situations. A 4-1/2” or 6” spinner handle (screwdriver style handle), will be more than adequate.  They sometimes come in a larger ¼” socket set, but you can get them at any hardware store if you don’t have one. [A 10mm socket won’t work on a TD-Sol, some Pixies, Presso or other reels that have different handle nuts.]

Some Tips: Resist the urge to use a pair of pliers or an adjustable crescent wrench on handle nuts, because they are usually recessed in a cast handle and are made from a softer metal! Brush a very small amount of grease on the first few threads at the end of the handle shaft before putting the nut on, it will lubricate the threads as you turn it down.  Lastly, you only need to snug-down the handle nut, since you can damage the handle, shaft or other components if you over-tighten it.

Miscellaneous Tools And Items

You’ll need some miscellaneous tools and other items when you clean and inspect your reels. So here’s a good start; but don’t be afraid to change, add or try a few different things on your own:

• An old toothbrush works great for applying grease on gears.  No need to get fancy here; just make sure the bristles are firm, straight and not deformed.  I prefer to use a child’s size toothbrush because it’s not as wide as an adult brush, which makes it a little easier to use on pinion gears.  (Over the years I’ve also used stiff-bristled acid, flux and small glue brushes.)  Just work the brush into the bottom of the gear teeth and cover the entire circumference of the gear.
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  A Note: There is no need to get carried away with the grease, since a light coat is all you need for most applications. A small and infrequent dab of grease on the brush will go a long way! Some Tips: Although the base of a helical gear seldom contacts other reel gears, it is still important to make sure it gets coated with grease.  In some ways, the extra grease at the base between each tooth acts as a reservoir that will wick and replenish the oil consumed on the rest of the gear, and you won’t need to lubricate it as often. To coat the base of a tooth, work/move the toothbrush parallel to the teeth and be sure to cover the entire width of a gear pair.  Also make sure you also brush the ends of pinion gears which laterally move through the center race of support bearings; it will help improve the ‘crispness’ as the reel engages/disengages.
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  An Important Note: Over-lubricating a set of high-precision reel gears can result in increased noise, rough feel while cranking under load, and grease getting into the drag stack. [Yikes, the wrong type of grease!] Although the gear set will probably quiet with use; the effects of getting gear grease in places you don’t want it, may require you to disassemble and clean the reel sooner than if you hadn’t over-lubricated the gears.

• Craftsman has a 6 piece Needle File set that comes in handy for knocking down a burr, dressing up the knurled end of a pin, smoothing a sharp edge, etc. The set occasionally goes on sale at Sears and includes #0 needle cut, flat, round, half-round, 3-square and square files(Craftsman #06757). However, I’ve also seen similar files on Amazon, in Home Depot and some  hobby shops for a little less.  They look almost the same as the Craftsman, but also come in other styles and larger sizes.
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  I still suggest you stay with files that are 6” or so in size. Primarily because they are easier to use without handles, are a good size for a bass bait caster, and they have finer or smaller edges than larger files. In addition, the basic styles that I previously mentioned work well for most situations, so there should be no need to get something really exotic.

• Tweezers come in handy for grasping and mounting the end of smaller springs and clips, positioning components in difficult locations, and removing parts from your solvent or cleaning solution. You want a set with a tip that is small enough to get into tighter locations, yet is sturdy enough to grasp and hold the end of a spring as you attach it. [For stronger or heavier springs you’ll probably use a pair of bent or needle nose pliers.]
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  I use a pair of Swiss made Dumont 6-½” stainless steel diamond tweezers, it has fine serrated points that aren’t overly-sharp (Dumont #101.72). It also has a locking tab that comes in handy for retaining the end of a small spring. You can find them or similar ones on the web.

• You’ll need some reel oil and grease; which can be a blog topic of its own. I suggest you search the Maintenance Section of the Tackle Tour forum for typical oil and grease that member’s use.  The topic comes up quite often and members post their preference. Also don’t forget drag grease if you have wet drags or drags that have been upgraded with Carbontex!
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  A Hint: You’ll eventually develop your own preference in a reel oil and grease.  In the mean time, don’t be surprised to find that anglers are as opinionated and emotional about their reel lubricants, as they are about rods, reels and fishing line!
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  A Suggestion: Stay with lubricants that are made for reels; they are relatively inexpensive and often contain additives selected for a fishing environment.
• If you fish in salt or brackish water, you may also want to use corrosion inhibitors like Beoshield, Reel-X or CorrosionX.  In fact, the lubricants that you may want to use and how you use them may be entirely different for salt/brackish water, when compared to fresh water.
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  The need to rinse and dry your reels after using them in salt or brackish water has the potential to wash-out some lubricants and corrosion inhibitors as you remove salt buildup.  In addition, sand and other debris from shore fishing may require you clean your reel more often, when compared to freshwater fishing from a boat.
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  A Note: Alan Tani has several excellent posts in the Maintenance Section of the Tackle Tour forum, specifically about saltwater reel maintenance.
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• Although not necessarily required when first starting, you probably will eventually need a caliper, especially if you do a lot of modding or troubleshooting.  A caliper can be used to measure the size of bearings, diameter of washers, height of a drag stack, etc.
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  I’ve been using a 6” plastic one that I got for reloading rifle cartridges over 30 years ago and it has worked fine. However, when I’m not wearing my reading glasses I’ve wished it had an electronic digital readout (e.g. digital vernier caliper). You can get calipers on line, just use Google to search.
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  Here’s a link to a .pdf file, in case you don’t know the 4 basic ways to use a calipers. Although the type shown in the file is a digital vernier caliper, the information still applies to other types: Using A Caliper

• At one time I could see the leg hairs on a horse-fly at 100 yards, but alas, that’s not the case anymore.  So, I find myself wearing magnifying glasses or a jeweler’s head visor more often, than in the past.  Although not required, I admit that they can make life easy at times.
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  Some Tips: A head visor can come in handy while removing the seals or shields on bearings, inspecting gears, and examining the threads on screws.  You can get one on eBay or at Home Depot, Lowes, Hobby Lobby, etc.  I prefer the type that are hinged and can be “flipped-up”, it’s an Optivisor with a 3.5x lens and 4” focal point.

Cleaning Supplies

You need to be careful when it comes to cleaning your reels and exercise good judgment.  Components are made from exotic metal alloys, carbon fiber, plastics, resins, ceramic, brass, bronze, rubber, stainless, etc. and can be adversely affected by the cleaning methods that you employ.  In addition, surfaces may be polished, painted, coated, anodized or production finished and can be adversely affected by the cleaners you use.  So here are some general cleaners, methods and tips for reel components:

• You may want to use a solvent for cleaning bare-metal components, like gears, bearings, springs, etc.  Solvents work quickly at breaking down the fillers in grease, lubricant chains in oils, and releasing debris from component surfaces. Good solvents include naphtha, acetone, Shellite, white gas, white spirits, Stoddards, paint thinner, mineral spirits, Coleman fluid, or even lighter fluid (which is primarily naphtha).  Just remember that solvents are an irritant, toxic and flammable; so exercise appropriate safety caution when using them. [Plenty of ventilation, safety glasses, safe storage, avoid contact with the skin, no sparks or flames, etc.]
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  I prefer naphtha and acetone; I get them by the gallon at Home Depot or Lowes.  Some Tips: Don’t use beauty shop alcohol or acetone, because they may contain a fragrance or perfume which can permanently discolor certain bronzes or yellow metals.  Never pore spent solvent down a drain, and never use dry-cleaning fluid, benzene or toluene (methylbenze or toluol); they are extremely toxic and rapidly build-up in the environment.  Also avoid getting solvents on painted surfaces or plastics until you are absolutely sure they won’t cause damage. Lastly, you should never need to rinse a component with water after cleaning in a solvent – just let them dry before adding lubricant!

• Naphtha also works great for cleaning Carbontex and metal drag washers.  It quickly penetrates and breaks down Cal’s and Shimano drag grease, and frees debris and wear products from the fiber.  Just swirl them around in a sealed jelly jar and let them completely dry before adding a light coat of drag grease.

• Some prefer spray solvents for cleaning bare-metal reel components; brake cleaner, electrical contact cleaner, carburetor cleaner, ether starting fluid, and circuit board cleaner are examples of what some Tackle Tour forum members use.  Although they are more expensive than liquid solvents, the spray action is very effective at removing debris.  However, I suggest that you spray outside since it can get quite messy, and be sure to wear safety glasses and avoid inhaling any vapors. Like any solvent, don’t allow it to get on painted or plastic surfaces until you are sure it won’t cause damage, and be sure to read the can!

• For cleaning non-metal, plastic or painted components you’ll probably want to use a good cleaning solution.  I prefer Simple Green diluted 10:1 to 20:1; because it is readily available, does a good job, is environmentally friendly and disposal is not an issue.  Others use their favorite dish soap, a citrus cleaner, aqueous degreasers, or solutions made specifically for cleaning reels.  Some Tips: Never use a cleaning solution that contains ammonia, disinfectants or bleach, since they can crack or corrode certain metal alloys.  In addition, there is no need to use harsh or abrasive cleaners for reel components; so stay away from acidic or caustic cleaners, pumice containing powders, or dishwasher machine detergents! [Someday I might share my dishwasher experiment, in a future blog.]
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  More Tips: Some cleaning solutions work best when they are warmer; grease/oil breaks down faster and debris is more readily removed with less effort.  So, when mixing your dilute Simple Green, try to use hotter water (e.g. up to 150 degrees or so), and do most of your toothbrush-scrubbing before the solution cools.  Also, don’t shake the dilute Simple Green solution to mix it, stir it instead; the suds don’t do anything for cleaning and will make it harder to see the components you want to clean!  Lastly, Simple Green can tarnish some aluminum alloys if it is diluted less that 10:1 and left in contact with the metal for a long time.  I always try to rinse components as soon as possible, after cleaning them with Simple Green. Follow the instructions provided on the container, for whatever cleaning solution you use.

• For solvents, you’ll want some small glass jars that have sealed lids to minimize evaporation losses and vapors.  Periodically swirling the components in the sealed jar also reduces the time required for cleaning. Jelly jars work great, and you can even get them in miniature sizes for smaller parts like bearings. Just dispose of them if the seal leaks or gets damaged. A Tip: Change the solvent whenever it becomes discolored or cloudy to the point that you can’t see your parts in the jar, and always try to finish cleaning in a jar of clear solvent.
  ,
  The small lab vial in the picture to the right is the ideal size for cleaning a pair of bearings. The cap is made from a solvent resistant material that seals tightly on the glass vial. I got a box of them on eBay. The small black topped jar is actually a honey jar that I found in a Mariott Inn breakfast bar; it has a very heavy rubber seal on the lid and is great or cleaning several sets of bearings.  The gold topped jars are Knot’s Jelly Jars, and there is a set of spool bearings soaking in the Naphtha on the right. (I have also used canning jars in the past, they come in various sizes. However I don’t anymore, since the seals don’t seem to last as well as they used to.  Maybe it’s my imagination, but the seals and lids don’t seem to be as thick or as heavy as they once were?)

• For cleaning solutions you’ll want some plastic trays or small buckets that you can soak and scrub parts in. You’ll also need another tray or bucket for rinsing the components later. I’ve used white trays from frozen Lasagna, ice cream buckets, empty cottage cheese containers, and old Tupperware over the years. By the way, a white container makes it easier to see the parts while cleaning. Some Tips: Always rinse the components thoroughly with fresh water, after cleaning them in a cleaning solution.  Trace amounts of soap or wetting agents can cause problems when wet later, and may prevent additives and corrosion inhibitors contained in some reel oils, grease and anti-corrosive sprays from adhering.  An old stiff-bristled toothbrush works great for scrubbing small components in your cleaning solution; but I don’t suggest you use one with solvents – the bristles can splash and throw solvent droplets all over the place as you scrub!

• You’ll also need some rags while you clean your reels to wipe off debris, grease, oil, etc. I prefer white terry-cloth rags, just because they are relatively lint free and it’s easy to see any small parts that accidentally get stuck to them.  However, others use general purpose shop rags, paper towels, old dish cloths or even q-Tips.

Supertuning Extras

If you plan to also do some actual reel supertuning, you’ll probably need a few extras:

• Dremel Drill – I prefer an AC operated Dremel instead of a battery model, because the battery models I’ve had never seemed to achieve nearly as high a speed or were as powerful as a plug-in model.  In addition, it always seemed like the batteries never lasted as long as I needed them to. A Tip: Keep your eye open at the local garage sales for an old sewing machine foot pedal. You want the type that has an AC outlet for the machine to plug into.  It’s so much easier using your Dremel while both hands are free, and having the ability to control the speed with your foot is an added benefit. Just put the control on your AC powered Dremel at high speed and plug it into the pedal!

• You’ll also need a set of small buffing wheels and mandrels; some Dremel packages include them, along with extra collets, brushes, etc. But, you can always get replacements at Home Depot or Lowes.  A Tip: Don’t forget the safety glasses!

• I prefer Fabulustre for a polishing compound; it is actually a jeweler’s rouge that also removes light scratches, yet puts a very fine polish on most metals.  It’s practically grease-free so cleanup is quick and easy, and a ¼ pound tube is very reasonable and will last for years. You will usually find it in a good hobby shop, or can search the web for a source.
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  Others use a fine buffing compound like Brown Tripoli or White Rouge, and finish with Red Rouge.  A Tip: A solvent like naphtha is good for removing the residue from polishing compound or rouge. Here’s a link with more information on polishing compounds and rouge:
  http://www.hobbytool.com/jewelers-rouge.aspx

• Lighter-weight spool oil – there are several that work well. Search the Maintenance Section of the Tackle Tour forum for oils that members use.

Putting It All Together

Before You Ask: Sorry, I don’t work on other peoples reels. I’ve grown too accustomed to my freedom after retiring – and don’t want or need the responsibility for someone else’s reels, timetables, commitments, etc.

Picture showing about 2/3 of my latest reel bench.

A Note: I’d guess that my workbench sees about 100 to 125 reels a year now, and most are worked on during the winter.  (A few of my fishing buddies still use my bench to service their own reels.) Although that’s not nearly as many as it was in the past, it is more than a typical owner would do. In addition, the vast majority are bass bait casters and only a handful are spinnning or fly reels.  The only reason I bring it up is to provide insight and a perspective on my bench size, preferences, tool selection, etc. Your situation will likely be different.

I like to keep the majority of the small hand tools that I frequently use, stored on top of the bench itself – accessible, somewhat organized and not totally spread out. (I’m sure you’ll develop your own ‘bench demeanor’ with time.) Over the years I’ve used trays, drawers, Styrofoam blocks and foam bricks; but was never really happy with them. [For example: Trays took up too much bench space; you had to rummage through drawers to find the exact tool you needed; and foam wasn’t very durable or always wanted to tip over!]

I eventually settled on an ice cube tray made by Ice Tubes, Inc., which is used to make long and cylindrical ice cubes for water bottles.  It has a small and stable foot print (10”x4”x4”), is easy to identify and select the tool you need, and can be moved should you want to use the bench for something besides reels. You can even run it though the dish washer when it needs to be cleaned! I got it at Walmart, but I’ve also seen them for ~$6 at Target and on Amazon. I keep frequently used screw drivers on one side, pliers on the other, and remaining tools in the middle. (The key is to put the tools back in the same location when you are done using them.)

Ice Tray, Inc tray used to hold frequently used tools.

Infrequently used tools and parts are kept on shelves, in drawers, or other “out of the way” locations. [No need to clutter the bench with stuff that just gets in the way.] Especially since I typically cover my work area with a white terry cloth towel; I find it’s easier to see the parts, and the loop weave keeps them from rolling away or getting lost.

I usually just lay my parts out on the towel as I work on a reel, since I won’t have it disassembled that long anyway, and my workshop is my “Man Cave” [e.g. it’s off limits and doesn’t get disturbed]. However, I typically put the parts in a white ice cube tray and set it aside, if I do need to leave one disassembled for a while. Some Tips: White ice cube trays allow you to see the smaller parts better under typical lighting, when compared to colored trays. It’s also easier to remove small clips, screws and springs from trays that have rounded bottoms for each ice cube.  You can number the slots on the tray and sequentially put each part in a slot while disassembling the reel; and work your way backwards when re-assembling the reel.  Lastly, you might be able to use the bottom of a cardboard or Styrofoam egg carton to hold your components, although I’ve found they aren’t very durable and are easy to flip over.

Don’t forget that you’ll need the schematic for your reel(s). Many reels come with one or you may be able to find it on the net. I put them in vinyl sleeves that fit in a 3-ring binder, so I don’t need to look for them the next time I work on a reel.

I offer a few last thoughts for those who are new to servicing their bait caster (don’t worry, there’s no theory in this blog). Look for a place that has decent lighting and ventilation, plenty of space, a good work surface, comfort and few distractions.

Remember these points, they can keep you out of trouble:

• Small-shiny reel parts and strange smelling liquids naturally attract young children and pets,
• Wives won’t understand or like it, when you forbid anyone from entering the kitchen,
• The living room carpet has a reputation for digesting reel screws, springs and clips,
• The finish on the dining room table will probably be permanently damaged if you get solvent on it,
• Sitting “hunched over” a bench for a couple hours can cause your L4-L5 or L5-S1 to flare up, and
• Maybe the garage or basement isn’t so bad after all? [Christmas isn't that far away and reel tools make great gifts.  No need to press your luck!]

By The Way: How could you have a workbench without Ms Casey and friends being there to help keep track of important dates and to brighten things up? I have my 2010 Tackle Tour Calendar on the  bench and already look forward to the coming new year!

Good Luck!

-dModder

Tags: bait casters, Daiwa, Drag, Maintenance, Reels

This entry was posted on Tuesday, October 6th, 2009 at 2:25 am and is filed under Bass Fishing, Fishing, Maintenance, Reels. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.