Spool bearing upgrades are probably the most common modification that Tackle Tour baitcast owners make on their reels, and it’s a frequent topic on the forum.  That shouldn’t be surprising, since bearing upgrades have become a quick way to achieve a little better casting performance (although some make them for other reasons).  One thing for sure, hardly a day goes by when you don’t see someone mention bearing upgrades in the Maintenance, Show & Tell, Reels or Enthusiast Sections of the forum!

So, you’ve followed the posts and they’ve “sparked” your interest? Or maybe you’ve been intrigued in the chatter about the ‘latest’ bearings, and have the itch to try a set for yourself? However you hesitate and have doubt — because you haven’t done an upgrade before, don’t know where to begin or even what you’ll need? Maybe you’re concerned with “messing something up, but just don’t know what?….

I’ll do my best to get you started in this blog, as I walk you through an Alphas-F upgrade.  I’ll point out the more obvious problem areas, provide some insights and tips, and lay the ground work should you want to do your own bearing mod.

[An Aside: Some experienced modders may even think I've gone a bit overboard in explaining and pointing out things; but this blog really isn't for them! ...or is it? I'm sure there are probably some steps that can be omitted without much consequence; but feel it's important to help the inexperienced as much as I can.]

Background

The Daiwa Alphas-F is a great reel right out of the box.  Not only is it light and just the right size for palming, mine is also one of the smoothest cranking reels that I own.  It can be used for many different presentations and does a decent job of casting lighter weight lures. However, like most reels, casting performance can be improved by upgrading the spool bearings.

The arrangement and layout of the Alphas-F is similar to most of the other magnetic-braked Daiwas, manufactured since the mid-1990s.  Although there may be minor differences in specific components, the information and steps provided in this blog can be used for just about every Daiwa model.

General Note About Other Reel Brands: There are just too many other reel manufacturers with various models to cover a lot of detail in one blog, since each will have their own design and construction.  Although I’ll spend most of this blog covering a Daiwa, the steps and discussion may still be of benefit when upgrading the bearings on other reels.  The general approach will be the same, but you’ll still want to search Google for more information before you begin.

All of the magnetic-braked Daiwa’s employ what is known as a free spool system, where the spool is completely disengaged from the pinion gear while making a cast. (However, that may not be the case with other manufacturers, especially their older models.)  So, you only need to upgrade 2 spool bearings for improved casting performance on the Daiwas.

Some bearing suppliers do a great job of identifying the bearings you’ll need  for the upgrade in their listings. For example, Boca Bearings and smoothdrag.com have the information conveniently arranged by reel manufacturer and model. However, you’ll need to know the bearing size for some other suppliers.

The size of a bearing is usually listed as the [id] x [od] x [thickness (or width)], and for the majority of reels, it will be measured in millimeters (mm). If you don’t know the size of a bearing you can always measure it with a caliper.

Most recent Daiwa models since the earliest TD-X’s and S’s use spool bearings that are the same size. They use (1) 3×8x4 in the center of the palm plate, and (1) 5×11x4 bearing that is pinned to the spool shaft and fits into the reel frame. So the Pixy, Sol, Alphas, Fuego, TD-Z, Viento and Zillion all take the same 2 bearings for an upgrade. [However, The Steez's and Advantages use (1) 3x10x4 and (1) 5x11x4, and the Presso uses (2) 3x8x4 bearings. The Presso also uses a bearing adapter to fit in the frame, as shown in the picture.]

Tools and Preparation

You’ll need a few tools and consumables to do the job correctly:

• 3/8″ flat-blade screw driver (or Daiwa reel tool),

• Small pick or 1/16″ flat-blade screw driver,

• Spool pin pliers,

• Long-nose pliers (preferably with smooth tips),

• Lint-free rag, terry-cloth rag for covering work space, and favorite reel oil, and
• Other contingency tools/consumables mentioned in the blog include a toothpick, lighter fluid (or similar solvent), and fine file or emery board.

Spool Pins and Pin Pliers

Sometimes a spool pin will be harder to get out (when compared to most others), depending on several factors.  Some factors include the spool configuration, design of the pin, how long it’s been there, if it’s been removed before, reel use, corrosion and whether it was previously bent or knurled. Spool pins are also usually located near other components which can be easily damaged if you get careless, slip or use the wrong tool. For example:

• You can damage the bearing while removing or reinstalling the pin, should you inadvertently contact or apply axial force on its outer race.

• The side of a spool can be dimpled or crushed if you don’t ensure there is sufficient clearance beforehand and contact it with the pin pliers. You always need to be aware of what is occurring!

• The spool tip or area on the spool shaft adjacent to the pin can get scored or burred. (Reports indicate that there is a higher likelihood for this to occur if you try to use a standard pair of long-nose pliers to remove the pin; which can slip as you apply pressure with the handles.) A scored spool tip can cause the spool pinion to vibrate while cranking/casting or wear at an accelerated rate, and a raised blemish can make it difficult to slide the bearing on/off the spool shaft.

• Some spool shafts are made from aluminum or other soft alloy to reduce the weight of the spool.  Others may be a smaller diameter like on the Presso. So they are especially prone to damage from serrated pliers and/or can be easily bent or deformed.

An Important Tip: If you try to grasp the pin to pull and twist it out with a pair of pliers there is a high likelihood you won’t be successful – and may cause irreparable damage in the process! So, I simply suggest you resist the urge!!!  Having a spool pin get stuck can be a frustrating experience – but having a pin that is broken-off or bent in the spool shaft can be humbling!

Some pins only have a dimple in their center to keep them in place; while others have small ridges that run the entire length around their circumference; so twisting them out is not a good option. Other non-Daiwa pins can be tapered and only can be removed or reinstalled from one direction (Abu Revos are the latest example), so always be alert for a tapered spool pin and check each side with a micrometer if you are unsure.

Another Important Tip: Don’t trust your eyesight when trying to determine if a spool pin is tapered; the difference in diameter is usually too small to accurately discern! [Many new Revo owners were totally caught off-guard when they did their bearing upgrade!]

The pins on some Daiwa spools are noted for being extremely difficulty to remove the first time it is done. The Steez’s, some aftermarket spools, and reels which are no longer in production and have been sitting on a store shelf are recent examples.

Side Note: I didn’t ’sugarcoat’ any of the previous points, since you need to be aware of the obvious risks, pitfalls and potential problems involved in removing the spool pin. (Be assured that it was not an attempt to scare you away from replacing your own bearings.) In fact, the vast majority of ‘first timers’ do extremely well –  if they have the right tools, take their time, and seek advice when they have a problem or question.  [However, there are many good reel techs available to do the work should you find you don't have the resources, mechanical skills, inclination or patience; and there's nothing wrong with that!]  Lastly, if you find you are getting in trouble the best suggestion I can give is to stop – since things can go down-hill quickly!

The best tool I can recommend for removing and reinstalling the spool pin is a set of pin pliers that you make yourself.  (The topic comes up quite often in the Maintenance & Supertuning Section of the Tackle Tour forum.) The pliers minimize the potential for an accidental slip, will press the pin perpendicular to the spool shaft (if made correctly), won’t gall the shaft, or contact the spool bearing if made/used carefully.  Here’s a few links that will get you started, they are not that hard to make:

http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=22551
http://www.tackletour.net/TTForums/viewtopic.php?=41219
http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=9097
http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=13038
http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=18778

[A Big Side Note: Before you ask; no, I don't sell or make them for others....  However, if someone was thinking about starting a side business, this might be a good product to begin with! There has been a lot of demand for pin pliers over the years.]

Spool pin pliers with holes for removing the pin.  The small peg is used after the pin has been pushed flush with the spool shaft, to push it the rest of the way out. [There is no need to use pliers to pull the last part of the pin out!]

[Small Side Note: Another method for removing a pin involves a small punch, semi-hard mallet, and support blocks. However, it takes a lot of dexterity, coordination and care when using them - and can't always be used due to the location of the pin.  So, I won't go into any more detail.]

A few others have made their pin pliers by grinding or filing away part of the side of a bill, on a pair of pliers. They work O.K. but I don’t suggest you use pliers that have serrations on the tips, for reasons that I previously described.

A Tip: No matter what pliers you use to make your pin pliers, I suggest you carefully remove any sharp edges, corners, burrs or ridges with a small file; and lightly polish these areas to remove any blemishes. You’ll also want to keep them in good working order, clean and free of rust. Lastly, resist the urge to use them for anything but spool pins!

Some members have also reported good success in using a pair of coil crimping pliers as shown in the adjacent picture.   The groove on one tip will accept the pin, as it is pushed flush with the side of the spool, by the other tip.  However I never have used a pair myself, so can’t offer any specific guidance, suggestions, or information on where to even get them.

However, it’s reported that they are available on the net and aren’t that expensive; and I only provide the information as a another possible option.  Just remember if you go this route, to make sure the side of the pliers has sufficient clearance so they won’t inadvertently contact the edge of the spool or the bearing when pressing the pin, and don’t allow them to slip off the pin.

General Precautions

Here are a few general precautions you’ll want to be aware of when working on your reel:

• Do not drop a spool on a hard surface, since a fall from 1′ onto  workbench can dimple an edge of a light spool, and a 3′ drop onto a hard floor can permanently damage braking components.

• The spool pin and bearing retainer clip can be easily become lost if they fall off the bench or get stuck to something.

• You can damage the cage or dimple a race inside a bearing, if it happens to fall onto a hard surface!

• Always support the opposite side where the pin exits the spool shaft, when you push a spool pin out of its hole, and never allow significant force to be applied directly on the spool itself during the process.  You can warp a lighter spool (e.g. out of round, bent side), or adversely affect the joint between the spool and spool shaft if you do. A Tip: Use spool pin pliers to remove the spool pin; it makes things so much easier. You can lightly hold the spool with one hand, and support the spool shaft while using the pliers with the other.

• Exercise appropriate precautions when dealing with solvents. They are flammable, toxic, irritants, etc.

Another Tip: Do yourself a favor and cover your workspace with an old terrycloth towel to help mitigate the potential for loss, damage or parts rolling off the workbench.  Also make sure you have plenty of light and space.

Procedure

Note: I’ll assume that the bearings you are going to install have already been cleaned.  [It's a good practice to always clean new bearings, even if you order them dry. Some 'dry' bearings may have packaging lubricant or a light preservative on them that may not be compatible with some reel oils.] You’ll find more information on how to clean your bearings in the Maintenance & Supertuning Section of the Tackle Tour Forum or in the Bearings 201 Article in the Review Archives.  I’ll also assume your bearings have been lubricated with your favorite spool oil.

1. Back-off Spool Tension: Reduce spool tension until force from the pinion under the tension knob no longer acts on the palm plate. This is an important habit to establish when ever you remove the palm plate on a Daiwa reel – since you can damage the palm plate.

Tabs on the inside of the palm plate prevent the magnet set plate from moving when the palm plate is rotated from the frame. If a lot of force from spool tension acts on the plate these tabs can get broken – and then you won’t be able to remove the palm plate! [This seems to occur more on the Lexan Aphas Ito palm plate, than any of the other low profile models.] So, never try to remove a palm plate while excessive spool tension is placed on the spool. See my previous Inside the Daiwa Palm Plate blog for details.

2. Break the Plate Screw Loose: Loosen the large screw located in the center of the magnetic brake adjustment knob.  Sometimes on a new reel you need to use a Daiwa tool (you get it with some reels), or a 3/8″ flat-blade screwdriver to initially break it free.

A Tip: I’ve found that I don’t need to re-tighten the screw with a tool, since it puts a lot of stress on the underside of the plate where it meets the frame; and you can eventually damage the palm plate in the process of repeatedly removing and reinstalling it.  So, most of the time I tighten mine down with a thumb nail, and only need to apply a little pressure on the screw with my thumb or thumb nail to loosen it later.  [You'll find a picture later in the blog; which shows the area that could get damaged on the palmplate.]

3. Unscrew the Plate Screw: Use a finger tip or thumb tip to unscrew the large screw the rest of the way.  The screw should turn easily even though it is spring loaded and it should turn smoothly as you unscrew it. It is is retained with the rest of the brake knob components in the palm plate, so you only need to unscrew it until it clears the threads in the frame.

If the screw happens to feel rough as you unscrew it, clean off the threads with a small brush after you remove the plate and put a very light film of reel oil or grease on them before you reinstall the plate.  A Tip: You’d wish you had done this step if you’ve ever had a palm plate screw jam in a reel frame! It’s more likely that this will occur on an aluminum framed reel (e.g. Alphas ito), but can also happen with some magnesium alloy frames.  Look up the word “fretting” on Google.

4. Rotate and Remove the Palm Plate: Once the screw is completely loosened, the plate can be pivoted about 1/8 of a turn to disengage the tabs from the frame and it can be removed. Rotate the front of the palm plate as shown in the picture.

Sometimes the spool will come out of the frame when the palm plate is removed, because of the fit between the spool tip and the bearing located in the plate.  However, just slide the spool out of the frame, if it doesn’t.

Tips: Occasionally, the spool pin may hang-up in the pinion gear, so it may help to disengage the spool with the release bar.  In addition, when you remove the spool you are actually pulling the spool side clutch bearing from the bearing socket in the frame, and the fit may be a little snug on a new reel.

5. Inspect the Spool and Palm Plate: Inspect the spool and ring magnets for excess oil, debris, or corrosion and clean as necessary.  Resist the urge to blow off any debris or oil on the magnets with a can of compressed air.

Also inspect ring magnets for damaged paint or coating, since you can have problems later as the condition degrades with reel use and time.  You’ll find more information on servicing the ring magnets in my previous blogs.

Lastly set the spool aside in a safe location.  You don’t want it to roll off the work bench or let the cat bat it around your workshop.  [I'm ashamed to admit that the later actually happened to one of my Sol spools! Oh yeah, the cat didn't offer to pay for the replacement....]

6. Remove the Bearing Retainer Clip: I suspect just about anyone who has disassembled a reel has lost more than one bearing retainer. Those small clips seem to have a mind of their own; frequently getting launched into the infinite vacuum of space by the spring force that keeps them mounted! So trust me; if you’ve never removed one before, you want to take action so you don’t loose the clip.  They are so small that they are almost impossible to find.

I like to put a finger or thumb over part of the clip to restrain it, as I push a small screwdriver or pick on one side of the clip to work the retainer out of its groove. [Just don't accidentally pry on the side of the bearing or one of its races!]  Some perform this step with the side plate in a clear plastic bag in case the retainer clip flies out; and still others may use a pair of tweezers to grab, hold and remove it. Do whatever you are comfortable with, but just make sure you do something to keep from loosing the clip!

Try not to scratch the anodized metal on the bearing socket or coating on the magnets when removing the clip!  Damaged paint on the magnets can be a problem later (see my previous Inside the Daiwa Palm Plate blog).

7. Grab the Clip: Grab the clip when it is free of the groove in the bearing socket.

Sometimes the clip will be attracted to the braking magnets, so carefully remove it to prevent damaging the paint and set it aside so it doesn’t get lost.

A Tip: If the clip gets lost resist the urge to use the reel until you install a new one. The reel may initially cast fine, but the bearing will slowly works its way out of the bottom of the socket while cranking, until it finally makes contact with the machined edge that holds the braking components to the spool shaft. The net result is that noise and vibration will increase while cranking, and the bearing will quickly wear because it does not track properly.

8. Remove the bearing – Once the clip is removed the bearing is free to come out of its socket.  However, sometimes the bearing will tilt and become stuck in the socket.  If this occurs, just very-lightly press around the top of the outer race to re-level the bearing and then pull it out.  In addition, stray static magnetic force can hold the bearing in the socket as it begins to clear the top of the inner ring. So, gently grab it with a pair of tweezers, bent paper clip or a small pick to get it the rest of the way out.  A Tip: I do not suggest tapping the palm plate on an open palm to remove the bearing, because the bearing can “catapult” out of the socket when no longer affected by magnetic force from the magnets.  If it hits a hard surface it can be damaged!

9. Insert the New Bearing – Insert the new bearing in the bearing socket.  The new bearing should go in with out much force. However, if it gets titled it can stick and not want to move; just lightly press the edges of the outer race to re-align it.  In addition, stray magnetic force from the inner magnet ring may keep it from going all the way into the bottom of the socket, so you’ll have to push it down as you install the bearing retainer clip in the next step. [I elected to leave the seals on my Boca Orange Seals, but that's just my preference. Others may choose to remove one or both seals.]

Note: If installing the bearing with one of the seals removed, put the seal toward the top of the bearing socket; where excess oil expelled from the bearing will not get on braking components, and there is less potential for debris or water to get in the bearing.

10. Install the Bearing Retainer Clip: Be careful when reinstalling the bearing retainer; it can fly out of the bearing socket and get lost just as easily as when you removed it.  I cover part of the retainer with a finger/thumb after I put 2 sides of the retainer in its mounting groove; and then use a small screwdriver or pick to push the last side into the groove.

A Tip: Inspect the clip again when you think you have it installed, because sometimes the last side you inserted will not be all the way into its groove. Nudge it downward into the groove if necessary, since it might come all the way out when making a cast.  When it does come out you can expect a major bird nest, as the clip gets jammed against the spool inductor and inner magnet!

11. Prepare the pin for removal: The spool pin will need to be removed in order to replace the gear side spool bearing. I always put a partial drop of WD-40 or good reel oil on both sides of a pin, and let it set for a bit before attempting to press out the pin.

The small amount of oil will lubricate the pin and may help break-down corrosion between the pin and spool shaft.

A Tip: I don’t recommend WD-40 be used in a reel very often, but this is one case where I do.  However, after using it you’ll want to locally clean the spool shaft. I’ll have more on this later.

12. Press Out the Spool Pin: [Remember some non-Daiwa spools might have a tapered pin, so they can only be removed from one direction.] Position the spool pin pliers so one side of the pin is in the hole and the other side is in the dimple of the other bill.  Press firmly with the handles while lightly supporting the rest of the spool – just make sure the pliers don’t contact the edge of the spool or the bearing!

A Tip: Check as often as necessary to ensure the pliers don’t contact the edge of the spool or bearing whenever pressure will be applied with the handles.

Note: If you apply a lot of force on the pin you run the risk that it will bend or even break-off.  However, this seldom happens with pin pliers, because they essentially press perpendicular to the spool shaft and in-line with the hole. But you may find that you’ve knurled the end of the pin over, which will make it impossible to get it through the hole.  In this case, you’ll need to re-dress the end of the pin with a small file, similar to the way you remove a burr at the hole on the spool shaft (in Step 14).

13. Pull the Pin Out: Push the pin out to the point that it is flush with the side of the spool shaft (about half of the pin will be pushed through the other side of the hole). Then grasp it with a pair of long nose or duck bill pliers and gently remove it the rest of the way.  Just make sure you don’t contact the side of the spool, spool edge or bearing when pulling it out the rest of the way!

A Special Note and Tip: Most owners, who have damaged their spool or bearing, reported that it occurred while pulling the pin the rest of the way out of the spool shaft!  The pin will be slippery because of the oil, so grasping and pulling it can be difficult.  If you intend to replace the pin, you might use a pair of long nose pliers that have serrated tips for a better grip.  Alternately, you can wipe off excess oil, or even clean the exposed part of the pin with a rag dampened in lighter fluid (or other solvent).

Once you get the pin out check it for obvious damage if you intend to re-use it. Knock down any knurled edges on the end, burrs, etc. with a small file or emery board (just try not to get carried away when doing this). Put it in a safe location so it doesn’t get lost. Trust me when I say it can roll away on its own!

14. Remove the Bearing: Once the pin is removed the old bearing is free to come off the spool shaft.  I usually tip the bearing over on its end and allow the bearing to fall into my open palm. But sometimes you’ll need to grab the bearing between a finger and thumb to gently slide it off the shaft.

Occasionally,  a small burr on the edge of the pin hole will prevent the bearing from coming all the way off, especially on a spool where the pin has been repeatedly pulled and reinstalled.  You can use a small file or emery board to remove a burr at the hole, just make sure you don’t contact the bearing or the area on the spool shaft where the center race normally fits with the bearing.  Also try to prevent filings from getting inside the bearing; by putting a piece of masking tape over the shield and races.  When the burr has been removed, then try to remove the bearing again.

A Tip: If the bearing gets hung up on a burr at the pin hole resist the urge to force it off.  You can quickly damage a miniature bearing by putting excess axial force across the balls and races.  In addition, there’s a high probability that you’ll score the shaft as you force it off, since the burr from the hole typically gets dragged between the center race and spool shaft – and the bearing can get stuck!  Do it right and remove the burr beforehand!

15. Lubricate the Spool Shaft and Tip: You’ve probably affected any lubrication that was on the spool shaft when you handled the spool. So it will need to be restored before mounting the new bearing; but we need to do a little cleaning first.  We need to remove the WD-40 that we used on the spool pin and any debris or metal filings we generated from pulling the pin.

[Side Note: I've always found it best if residual WD-40 is removed before applying reel lubricants; because it can prevent them from adhering properly. In addition, the light oil and water displacement properties of the WD-40 doesn't last very long in an environment like our fishing reels, when compared to good reel oils.]

First, use a lint free rag dipped in a little lighter fluid (or other solvent), and wipe the areas between the red-X’s shown in the preceding picture. Be sure to wipe the entire circumference of these areas. Next take the toothpick and dip it in the lighter fluid and clean out the hole that the spool pin fits into.  There’s no need to get carried away with the lighter fluid, but let the surfaces dry before proceeding. (Also exercise appropriate precautions when using the lighter fluid; it is flammable, an irritant, etc.)  Then put a partial drop of light reel oil on a clean finger tip, and lightly rub it across the spool tip and around the circumference of the spool shaft marked with the red-X’s. Remember, less is better – you only want to establish an extremely- light film; so spool tension works properly and so the center race of the bearing won’t hang-up on the spool shaft (when reinserted in the frame and during spool tension adjustment)! Lastly, put a very small amount of reel oil on the other end of the tooth pick and lightly-coat the inside of the spool pin hole with the tooth pick.

[Side Note: The bottle of oil shown in the left picture is Oust Met Oil. I have been using it on all of my Abec 7 bearings for 'uber' performance.  You can get it from smoothdrag.com....]

16. Mount the New Bearing: The new bearing should slide all the way to the machined edge inside the spool. So verify that there is sufficient clearance between the hole for the spool pin and edge of the bearing; if not then something is causing the bearing to hang-up.

I elected to leave the seals on my Boca Orange Seals, but that’s just my preference. Others may elect to remove one or both seals.

Note: If installing the bearing with one of the seals removed, put the seal toward the inside of the spool, so there is less potential for debris or water to get in the bearing and it may be easier to clean the bearing without removing it.

17. Insert One Side of the Spool Pin: Insert one side of the spool pin to the point that the dimple is touching the side of the spool shaft. I like to orient the dimple on the pin as shown in the picture; it seems to always go in a little easier this way. However, if the pin has serrated edges running down the outside of its circumference, you may have to align it so it mates with any serrated edges inside the hole. Just rotate and slide it in until the serrations mate in this case.
A Tip: There is probably sufficient oil at the hole to lubricate the pin when you press it back in (if you performed Step 15). [It's obvious, but I thought I should mention that if the pin is tapered it will only fit one way.]

18. Press-In the Pin: Position the spool pin pliers so the end of the pin you press is in the dimple of the bill, and the other side of the bill with the hole is aligned over the hole in the spool shaft.  Press slowly with the handles while lightly supporting the rest of the spool – just make sure the pliers don’t contact the edge of the spool or the bearing!

Take your time and be careful so the pliers do not contact the side of the spool or new bearing. Try to push the pin in so it is centered on the spool shaft.

It should not take as much force on the handles to reinstall the pin, as it did to remove it. If it does then something is wrong. Either you did not remove any knurled edges on the pin, or did not clean and lubricate the hole before hand.

19. Center the Pin: It is important that the spool pin be centered on the spool shaft.  Move the pin as necessary with the pin pliers, so an equal length of pin ends up on each side of the spool shaft.

A Tip: If the pin is not centered it can contact the bearing socket inside the frame (or even the center race of the large pinion gear bearing on some frames). You usually have about .5 mm clearance on a side before this occurs, and can look at the pin to see when it is properly centered. Sometimes I look straight down at the spool tip, and use the shield/seal on the side of the bearing as a way to determine when the pin is properly centered.

(By the way, the pin in the picture is centered. It may not look like it due to the tilt of the spool.)

20. Reinstall the spool and side plate: Reinstall the spool, side plate and lock it in place with the plate screw. (Reversing the process described in Steps 1 thru 4.)

Note: There is no need to excessively tighten the screw, since you can damage the palm plate; only tighten it enough so you don’t loose the plate on the water!

21: Reset Spool Tension and Braking: Lastly, don’t forget to re-tighten spool tension and set the brake adjustment knob when you are done.

You need to do this before you make your first cast!  Trust me, you’ll wish you had if you didn’t!

Download Available!

Hopefully you’ve been able to follow along and complete the upgrade without any problem.  I’m sure you’ve learned a lot in the process, and the next time it will even be smoother!

I’ve included a copy of this blog in Word format, since you may want to have the instructions while doing the upgrade at your bench! You can download the .doc file to your hard drive with the link at the bottom of the blog, and print it out later

Completed Alphas-F, ready to make a few practice casts!

[Side Note: The Alphas-F used in this blog had previously been supertuned.  It has an Alphas ito spool, TD-Z 4-bearing handle, level-wind and Carbontex drag washer upgrades, and specifically polished components for improved performance.]

[CLICK HERE] for Word copy of this blog.

- dModder

Tags: bait casters, braking, Daiwa, Maintenance, modifications, Reels

This entry was posted on Monday, August 17th, 2009 at 3:49 pm and is filed under Maintenance, Reels. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.