Ultrasonic cleaners have been around for over 6 decades, yet they’ve really only been used to clean fishing reels in the past 20 years or so.  The technology was initially limited to aero-space, medical, electronic and manufacturing processes due to high costs and limited supply. But that all changed with the introduction of smaller bench-top models, and anglers and reel techs began to incorporate them after prices finally stabilized.

So, maybe you’ve seen the hype about cleaning your reels with an ultrasonic on a few forums or were intrigued when you watched a reel tech use one, and finally decided to get your own? Next, you went on the web and searched around – and eventually became overwhelmed with the choices, taken-aback on the high cost of some models, and/or just don’t know which one to choose because of the technical jargon and options!  Not surprising; since ultrasonic cleaners are very popular right now, and manufacturers in just about every export country seem to be offering them like there’s no tomorrow! They come in all shapes and sizes, the sales literature makes all sorts of claims, and they run the whole gambit in quality/construction/prices/etc. It’s no wonder that many never get one, even after deciding they would.

Trust me when I say selecting the right model can be tricky. Get the wrong one and you won’t be happy with the results, may eventually stop using it, and wished you had put the money toward a new rod or reel.  Get the right one and you’ll wonder how you could ever have enjoyed life without it, you’ll likely clean your reels more often because it takes considerably less time and effort, and will be elated with your decision! 

So the purpose of this blog is to help untangle some of the jargon, provide my experience and a few tips, and hopefully get you going down the right track!  But first we need to cover a little background information on how an ultrasonic cleaner works, theory, etc. [You didn't think I'd skip that part, did ya?]

Background Info

A bench-top ultrasonic cleaner consists of a tank, transducer, power supply, and control board which are mounted in an enclosure. The transducer is bonded to the outside-bottom of the tank, and the inside of the tank holds the cleaning fluid and components that need to be cleaned.  Heat from the transducer is removed by the cleaning fluid during operation, but the tank may also be equipped with an electric heater that raises and maintains the temperature of the fluid.

Cleaning takes place when high frequency bursts of ultrasonic energy are applied to the cleaning solution that surrounds the parts. The energy produces waves of alternating positive and negative pressure as they pass through the liquid. The alternating pressure:

• Creates millions of microscopic bubbles during periods of negative pressure,
• Implodes the bubbles during periods of positive pressure, and
• The process gets repeated over and over again; related to the frequency (KHz) the unit is operating at.

The formation and collapse of bubbles is a phenomenon known as “cavitation.”  In a properly sized ultrasonic (e.g. adequate power, ideal frequency and correctly designed), bubbles will cavitate on/near the surface of the parts; and soil, debris, lubricants, etc. will be removed in the process.  When the bubble implodes it creates a jet of plasma that hits the object being cleaned.  It’s important to note that the bubbles are so small that you can’t see them with a naked eye while cleaning; but you can see the debris being removed and maybe even a little turbulence around the parts or on the surface of the cleaning solution.

The amount of cleaning that occurs in an ultrasonic is directly related to the cavitation that occurs on the parts, and characteristics of the solution itself.  So, the power of the unit, density of the waves passing through the fluid, fluid chemical properties and even the temperature of the fluid itself can all influence the cleaning process. [I'll have more on this later, when I discuss selecting a unit.]

Conceptional sketch of cavitation used in ultrasonic cleaning.

There are two different types of transducers which produce the ultrasonic energy required for cavitation: a ferrous core that vibrates in a magnetic field at lower frequencies; and a piezo-ceramic crystal which oscillates at much higher frequencies. In general, lower frequencies are used to remove heavy and larger particles, while higher frequencies are used for removing smaller particles or when a delicate surface finish needs to be protected.

The amount of ultrasonic energy that is transmitted from a transducer to the liquid in the tank is measured in watts, and is referred to as ultrasonic power [average ultrasonic power].  The relationship between ultrasonic power to the size of the tank, tank level and the mass of the parts being cleaned is critical. If the unit does not provide sufficient ultrasonic power:

• Cavitation may not occur in all regions of the tank,
• Cavitation may not occur on all surfaces of the components being cleaned, and
• Cleaning takes longer than it should or does not properly occur. [This might also imply that you'll need to operate the unit for longer periods, than it may have been designed for!]

The efficiency of just about any cleaning solution can be improved by using an ultrasonic.  Not only will it save time and take less effort, but it will also do a better job at cleaning.  Ultrasonic cavitation will usually occur inside cracks, blind holes, at joints, and inside screw holes; that otherwise might not have gotten clean.  In addition, you won’t need to use an aggressive chemical to get the surface “metal clean” in an ultrasonic, if properly-sized, operated at the correct temperature, ideal solution, etc.  The picture at the left shows an Alphas Ito aluminum frame that just came out of the cleaner; it’s as bright and shiny as the first day I got it (even though it’s been cleaned 6 times and used for over 600 hours on the water).

An aside: Bench-top Ultrasonic cleaners are ideal for cleaning metal, hard plastic, anodized metals, glass, ceramic, crystal and other hard-surface components.  Ultrasonic cleaning is not very good for cleaning rubber, cloth, soft plastic, wood or other soft-surface items.  Never use an ultrasonic to clean cork, magnets, or other items you suspect may get damaged by the solution or by cavitation. Lastly, one might think that having jets of plasma hitting the finish on an expensive reel would really mess things up, but that’s very seldom ever the case – and the cleaning solution you use might have more of an effect.

Now that you’ve got a little theory under your belt, it’s time to go about selecting a bench-top unit.  The basics will help when you get ready to pull the trigger….

Selecting A Bench-top Ultrasonic

I’ve been through a few ultrasonic cleaners that I used for cleaning my reels over the years, and I’ve learned a few things along the way.  Granted I haven’t tried every model that’s out there; but I’ve drawn some general conclusions based on my experience.  [I even got so frustrated at one point, that I stopped using an ultrasonic for a while!] So here are my thoughts, preferences, and a few tips that may help when you go to buy one. [By the way, preferences are tailored by one's experience, expectations and needs -- 'one size fits all' seldom applies.]

I’ve listed the important features that you might consider when purchasing a bench-top unit.  Hopefully you won’t repeat my painful trip down “Ultrasonic Lane!”

General Info: Branson and Crest produce very popular bench-top models; and L&R/Quantrex, Fisher Scientific, Naytech, VWR Aquasonic and Mettler units are also used in many laboratories and production facilities. (I’ve also seen SharperTek ¾ gallon and larger models in use at a couple local reel service shops.) Yet, you still need to be careful even when selecting a model from one of these manufacturers; because power, basket size, duty cycle, construction, etc. are important factors that need to be considered for reel cleaning. [I'll have more on this later.]

Like a lot of other products, the growth of the internet has resulted in a barrage of vaguely advertised and lower-quality ultrasonic cleaners.  As a result, some sellers have been quick to adopt words that imply their cleaner is ideal for just about any and all service you can imagine. You’ll frequently see words like commercial, medical or laboratory service scattered throughout a listing; or product brands that sound remarkably similar to those you may already be familiar with. So you need to carefully read ads, do your homework, check available feedback, and use your judgment before making a purchase.

Loaded basket of Daiwa Pixy components just starting to clean. Cloudy patches are debris and old lubricant being removed.

An Aside: I’ve had terrible luck with lower priced models over the years, and the last one I got failed to even make it through its first annual clean, inspect and re-lube on my reels.  Although it took a couple of “thumps”, I eventually learned my lesson. [The painful part wasn't the time/money that I had wasted; but rather the frustration I went through, since I had seen ultrasonics successfully used in labs and assembly-maintenance facilities ...and believed in the technology!] By the way, if you’ve had good success with a lower priced model from the internet/auction sites – good for you! I wasn’t so lucky.

Personally, I wouldn’t even consider buying a new unit now unless the seller is a manufacturer-authorized dealer, provides warranty or service information, and offers a money back guarantee.  If he lists a phone number that you can call to ask questions or is a manufacturer representative; so much the better!  Let’s face it, a good ultrasonic is a tool; and like many tools you get what you pay for. So don’t get lulled into thinking that one of the well-known ultrasonic manufacturers is dumping their inventory for $49.95 – and the one offered in a listing can universally meet all medical or industrial needs! NOT!

Ultrasonic Power: Read the power specification carefully, since the power provided in the description may not be the ultrasonic power rating if the unit has a heater.  In some cases you’ll see total power listed for the unit, and ultrasonic power won’t be specifically provided (total power is the heater power plus ultrasonic power ratings).  Also be careful if you see ultrasonic power listed as Peak Power or Peak Envelop Power(PEP); since average power (or just power and not PEP), is what is typically used for comparing units today.  [Like audio equipment, Peak Power will be much higher than actual power - not than anyone would try to pass a lower powered unit off as a higher one; would they?]

Some lower-priced manufacturers deliberately oversize the heater side and undersize the ultrasonic side of a bench-top unit, in order to reduce cost and/or sell what appears to be higher-powered units at bargain prices.  It’s unfortunate that most users wouldn’t recognize the difference during use; as more cleaning is actually done by the cleaning solution, rather than by ultrasonic cavitation.  In many ways this may be fine for cleaning coins, jewelry, combs, lens, CDs, false teeth, etc.; but can be disappointing if you intend to clean reels.

The previous picture shows the Daiwa Pixy handle plate after it was cleaned in the ultrasonic.  The roller bearing mounted in the plate was spotless when I examined it under magnification!

A Tip: If the unit you are considering has a heater and the ultrasonic power is not specifically listed, then you should ask – and if the seller can’t tell you what it is, this can be a warning sign that the unit may not be adequate for cleaning reel parts. So the next step is to go on-line to the manufacturer’s website and get the information yourself.  [You can often find detailed specifications for a unit and the operating manual on a good website.] If you can’t find the ultrasonic power rating or even a website – that’s not a good sign.

The total power of a bench-top unit will typically increase with the size of the tank.  Not only will the power of the heater need to increase (if so equipped), but the ultrasonic power needed to clean more parts in the bigger tank will also usually increase. However, the relationship between ultrasonic power is not always directly related to tank size; since more than one transducer may be added, the unit may have more efficient piezo-ceramic transducers instead of magneto transducers, or incorporate a totally different power scheme to drive the transducers in higher-end models. The overriding effect is that it will generally take longer to clean reel components as the unit ultrasonic power is reduced; which may not be a problem for some applications, but if reduced too low how do you know the chemical properties of the solution itself isn’t doing the vast majority of the cleaning, instead of being optimized with cavitation?

So where does that leave us for cleaning our reels? As a minimum, I don’t think I’d consider a ½ gallon unit unless it had at least ~50 watt ultrasonic power rating, a ¾ gallon unit with at least ~80 watt rating, or a 1-1/2 a gallon unit with at least ~130 watt rating.  [The wide range of component sizes, special lubricants and assorted debris found in our reels do present some unique challenges.]

As points of reference, it usually will take up to 15 minutes to clean a reel frame in my 135 watt ¾ gallon Crest, and 20 minutes in my 55 watt ½ gallon Branson. [O.K., I admit that I'm very picky when I clean my reels and probably tend to go overboard in this regard.] By contrast, a handle plate (with anti-reverse bearing still installed), usually takes 20 minutes and 25 minutes respectively. In addition I’ve also cleaned a few reels that had obviously been neglected for several years (got them at bargain prices); they were caked inside with hardened grease, a lot of dirt, and dried algae – it too about 60 minutes to get the frames and handle plates clean in my Crest!

Frequency: Ultrasonic frequencies in the range of 35 to 45 KHz work well for cleaning debris, grease, etc. from reels. Fortunately, most mid and higher-end bench top models generally fall within this range [~40Khz].  However, lower-end units can operate anywhere across the ultrasonic spectrum you can imagine, so look carefully!

Some models have controls that allow the frequency to be manually set or to automatically sweep a band of frequencies; to improve removal of specific debris, compensate for the geometry of parts, etc.  However, none of my the units have/had these features, and I did just fine without them.

It’s easy to arrange parts in a rectangular-shaped basket.

Basket Size and Construction: Basket and tank size will likely have more of an influence on selecting a bench-top ultrasonic, than you might initially think! If the basket is too small you won’t be able to clean all components at the same time, and will have to resort to cleaning in batches.  This significantly extends the time required to clean a reel and negates one of the main reasons for getting it in the first place!

As a minimum, you need a basket (or shelf) that is big enough to hold the largest reel frame you intend to clean, plus space for the side plate and other components.  In addition, the tank depth needs to be sufficient to cover the top of the frame when it’s in the basket (or on the shelf), plus ½” or so for evaporation loss.  So there is an important correlation between basket and tank size, when selecting a model for cleaning reels.

In general, I’ve found that a basket that is 5″x3-1/2″x3″ (length x width x depth), is about as small a size necessary for most low profile reels. This roughly equates to a 1 liter model, and in all likelihood you’d probably wish you had gone to the next larger size if you had to do it over again.  [If you think you'll ever do bigger round or non-low profile reels you'll definitely want to go larger!] In addition, I don’t suggest getting a unit that doesn’t have a rectangular shaped tank if you can help it.  An odd shape (e.g. oval, exaggerated corners, gradual sloping sides), can cause the parts to eventually move and bunch-up against each other while the unit is in operation, and can be difficult to arrange all components in the basket (unless it is very large).

A Tip: Based on what I know today, I don’t think I’d consider buying a unit that was less than a ½ gallon (even if it was rated at more than 50 watts ultrasonic power), unless I saw it at a yard sale or auction and could get it for next to nothing.  If the tank size is too small, it can become a major bottleneck when you clean your reels, and you might eventually stop using it!

A stainless steel tank is a must – don’t consider anything else. If I had my choice I’d also want the housing, basket or shelf to also be made from stainless steel, but that’s just my preference. I’ve found stainless is so much easier to keep clean and it doesn’t discolor or crack with use. The stainless steel enclosed units I’ve tried also seem to run a little cooler than the plastic enclosed models, which has to be better for the electronic components.  [The picture at the left shows a typical basket, tray and shelf for an ultrasonic cleaner.]

Another Tip: Do yourself a favor and make sure the unit you get comes with a cover. It will not only reduce evaporation losses, but can also reduce the humidity in your work area!  In addition, you’ll also want a basket, tray or shelf for your parts, to keep them off the bottom.  (In a pinch you might be able to make something out of stiff wire or other “odds-and-ends”, but you can usually buy a basket for a fairly reasonable price with the unit.)  I prefer a stainless basket to plastic, even though it is a little more expensive. [The last low-end unit I got had a plastic basket and it cracked the second time I used it. I suspect the heat made it brittle, and it took several attempts to glue it back together again.]

Operating Cycle Time: As a minimum, I wouldn’t select a unit that had less than a 30 minute operating cycle [or timer], and would prefer one that was rated at least 1 hour if given the choice.  Some low-end or smaller units have a very short operating cycle (up to 8 minutes or less), since it doesn’t take long to clean a diamond ring, contact lens, or coins; and the manufacturer may not have designed the unit for longer operation in order to reduce cost. [And I wouldn't be surprised to learn that they probably didn't worry about overheating or the long-term effects from continuous operation in their design.]

A Tip: The size of the timer and operating cycle time may provide insight on the durability of the transducer(s), power supply, and overall quality of the unit. If you don’t see the operating cycle time listed, ask the seller about it.  I previously provided the typical time it takes to clean a frame and handle plate in my current units. So let me give you another perspective on operating cycle: If having to stop what you are doing so you can reset the unit is inconvenient; then having to stop to let the unit cool down will be a major pain in the rear!

A bench-top unit that truly operates at its rated ultrasonic power will develop considerable heat inside the enclosure and in the tank (even it doesn’t have a heater).  I’m convinced that the last low-end model I tried eventually failed because of heat degradation – and a “post-mortem” revealed the ultrasonic power rating wasn’t even listed on the nameplate or on the transducer!  Uhhhh, what’s up with that ???&!#!

Many mid and higher-end models are rated for continuous operation, and some will have a setting that allows you to run it that way! Like any good tool, you don’t want to be concerned with how long you can use it.

Clean Pixy frame right out of the cleaner!

Heater: I’ve already touched on the heater in previous discussion, but here’s a little more information. The primary purpose of the unit heater is to raise and maintain the temperature of the cleaning solution. The tremendous amount of energy released by cavitation will generate the localized heat required for cleaning.

It’s possible to buy mid and higher-end bench-top units without a heater.  However, unless you use hot tap water to make your solution right before you use it, you’ll have to run the unit for a while to warm the solution before you clean parts. This may be fine for a time, but it does put extra run-time on the unit; and if it isn’t designed for long periods of operation it can eventually fail. Having a heater allows the fluid to be warmed ahead of time, and you don’t need to mix new solution nearly as often.

The temperature of the fluid will have an effect on the cleaning produced by the unit.  The characteristics of the cleaning fluid, debris being removed and the parts being cleaned can all be affected by solution temperature – since cavitation density and bubble formation is affected by temperature.  [I'm still surprised at the difference 5°C can have, on the rate that debris gets removed while cleaning.]

Cleaned, re-lubed and reassembled Alphas Ito ready to fish.

So, if you can afford it get a unit with a heater.  It not only makes operation that much easier, it also eliminates one of the variables that affect the actual cleaning, and you can optimize temperature for your specific cleaning needs.  Most mid-and high-end models that have heaters use automatic controls to accurately maintain the temperature.

Degas Cycle: I never had a unit that had a degas cycle, until I got my Crest.  Most of the time I’d have to run the unit anyway because they also didn’t have a heater, in order to raise the temperature of the solution before cleaning – and the solution would also degas during this time.

However, when I got my first unit with a heater I noticed that cleaning slowly improved during the first 10 minutes of operation and eventually “evened-out”.  I hadn’t seen that before, because I ran the ultrasonic to raise temperature; and figured out the fluid was actually degassing during the first 10 minutes of use!

Many liquids will hold air and non-condensable gasses – and water-based ultrasonic cleaning solution that has just been added (or has been sitting in the tank for a while), is no exception.  Unfortunately, gasses in the fluid can affect the transmission of the pressure waves, and best cavitation occurs after the gasses have been driven out of solution.  Ergo “degassing”; which is the initial removal of gases present in the solution.

Digital control panel is easy to keep clean and operate. They are sealed from water and essentially have no moving parts.

Some bench-top units come with an optional degassing cycle that will prepare the solution for use.  You just turn it on and the unit will automatically operate in a mode that drives gases from solution.  You can go about tearing the down the reel and getting other things done in the mean time.

Do you need a degas feature in an ultrasonic? No, you can degas the solution as I previously described.  A degas cycle will definitely add to the cost of a unit, but it also makes operation a little more convenient and isn’t as hard on the unit.

Drain, Timer and Digital Controls: A drain, automatic timer and digital controls aren’t really required for cleaning a reel, and they add to the cost of a bench-top unit.  However, I’ll be the first to admit that they may lend to improved reliability and convenient operation.

For example, instead of pouring spent cleaning solution in a bucket, you can drain the tank into a gallon jug if the unit has a drain line.  Since, some high-end models can get quite heavy and awkward to lift; a manual drain may be something you want to consider on a larger model.  [Just don't drain the unit until after the solution has cooled!]

Mechanical timer and switches are fine; as long as you don’t get careless with getting things wet and keep the housing clean.  However, if you clean a lot of reels, purchasing a unit with digital timer and controls may be worth the additional investment.  Most are sealed and don’t have any moving parts which can easily fail.

Warranty and Service: The inside of a bench-top ultrasonic seldom has any user-serviceable components, so service and support can be important, because you’ll need to send it in for any repair. [Let's face it, oftentimes you are paying for the manufacturer's warranty and service when you purchase a mid or higher-end model anyway. Many carry at least a 2 year parts and labor guarantee, and a lifetime warranty on the heater.]  So, a good manufacturer likely has a network of repair centers and/or website where you can request information or help.  By the way, an ultrasonic cleaner is like many other electronic devices; if it is going to fail, it typically happens during the first few days or weeks of service.

Precautions and Operating Tips

I would be remiss if I didn’t cover some of the more common precautions and operating tips.  However, always read the manual when you get your unit!

• For obvious reasons, resist the urge to put your hands or fingers in an operating ultrasonic cleaner.  Always use a small stick if you need to move a part or a tweezers/forceps if you need to remove it. (I can personally verify that discomfort can occur if you stick your fingers in an operating ultrasonic!)

• Never use strong acids or caustics, flammable liquids, bleach or bleach by-products, or solutions with a low flash point for a solution in the tank. Avoid the use of dishwasher detergents, since many contain hard abrasives for removing food particles, which can damage the finish on reel components and painted surfaces.

• Solutions should be replenished when a noticeable decrease in cleaning action occurs, or when the solution looks spent (visibly very dirty or discolored). A fresh batch of solution at each cleaning session is usually not required (unless you elect to mix new solution because your unit doesn’t have a heater); but there’s no need to stretch things to extremes before you replace it.  [I can usually clean 2 to 3 reels in my ½ gallon unit or 3 to 4 in my ¾ gallon unit before I need to replace the fluid.]

• Components being cleaned should never be placed directly on the bottom of the tank. The tank or components could get damaged or transducers that bond to the bottom may overheat. Always use a basket, tray, hanger or shelf to hold parts.

• Always allow the solution to cool before draining the tank– even if your unit is not equipped with a heater.  The transducer can get damaged or the bond with the tank could be adversely affected, if there is no solution to slowly dissipate heat – even with the unit turned off!

• Evaporation will result in a loss of fluid, so monitor level while in operation and keep it above the minimum specified in your manual. The ultrasonic is tuned so that it operates best at a specific level, and running it above or below this level can reduce cleaning or even damage the transducer.  Never run the unit with the tank drained or leave it unattended while in operation!

• Always flush components with fresh water after they have been cleaned in the unit. Trace amounts of some cleaning solutions can discolor certain metals over time, prevent lubricants from adhering properly or cause operational problems when they get re-wetted.

Cleaning Solutions

In theory, distilled water might work as the cleaning solution for reels in an ultrasonic cleaner.  However, I’ve tried it a few times on some old frames and handle plates, and the results were not very good.  Not only did it take significantly longer to clean the components, but I never felt they were as clean as they could have been by using an actual cleaning solution. The surfaces didn’t look “metal clean” and felt like they still had trace amounts of oil on them (a waxy look and feel).  I even tried increasing the temperature of the bath up to 75° C and still wasn’t happy with the results.  [But I had to give it a try!!!]

An Aside: When I thought about it afterward, my distilled water attempt was really an exercise in futility and never had much chance for success.  In many ways, the characteristics of reel lubricants and the physics related to cavitation were working against me: 1.) Many reel lubricant manufacturers deliberately put additives in their products to reduce harmful effects while fishing. It’s not uncommon for additives that improve adhesion, resist breakdown, and limit affects of water to be included in oils and grease; and 2.) The surface tension of pure water is fairly high – which actually reduces the amount of cavitation that occurs; surface tension of pure water needs to be reduced for best cavitation.

Most ultrasonic manufacturers usually recommend a water-based solution for general cleaning, like for our reels.  Commercial aqueous solutions typically contain detergents, wetting agents (reduces surface tension of the water), and other additives that specifically improve the cleaning process.  It’s no wonder that there are so many different types of ultrasonic cleaning solutions on the market, when you consider that the best composition is actually dependent upon the type of debris being removed and characteristics of the item(s) being cleaned.  Most solutions are also intended to be used from ~45 to 65°C., which is the optimum range for cavitation to occur in water (but always make sure you read the container instructions beforehand).  If the temperature gets too high the bubbles don’t implode anymore, but boil instead!

A large variety of excellent commercial ultrasonic fluid formulations are available for specific applications. I’ve used a few general purpose ones and found they work quite well, but are fairly expensive when compared to other options.  Sometimes you get a supply when you buy a new bench-top unit; just be sure to test it before you put your reel parts in it, because some fluids can discolor certain metals like aluminum or brass.

I’ve also made my own solutions over the past few years.  My mainstay is a solution of Simple Green diluted in water; 10 parts tap water to 1 part Simple Green. But I’ve also had good results with a weaker solution; 20 parts tap water to 1 part Simple Green – and it makes rinsing easier. If there is any downside to some Simple Green mixtures, I’d have to say that it can tarnish aluminum alloys if you make it too strong (e.g. stronger than ~10:1). I usually set my tank temperature at about 45°C when I use dilute Simple Green.

Another solution that I recently started using is 2 Tablespoons of Dawn Concentrated Dish Detergent in 1 gallon of water; which comes out to an amazing 128:1 mixture!  I stir it slowly with a spoon so it doesn’t create a lot of bubbles and gradually pour it into the tank.  It also does a good job, makes my aluminum Alphas Ito’s frame and handle plates shine like new, and is much easier to rinse-off. I set my tank temperature at 50°C when I use the Dawn solution.

A Tip: Regardless of what solution you use, always rinse the parts with a liberal amount of fresh water when you are done cleaning them.  Trace amounts of detergent can prevent grease or oil from adhering to metal surfaces that need lubrication, or might even cause an anti-reverse bearing to slip and not lock onto the handle shaft like it should. Did I mention you should always rinse your parts after you clean them in the ultrasonic?

Hopefully I’ve helped unravel some of the detail and pitfalls involved in selecting an ultrasonic for reel cleaning.  I admit that I still don’t have all of the “in’s and out’s” nailed down when it comes to operation; but maybe my tips and experience will be of benefit – and you can share yours.  [By the way, I'm in no way associated with any of the manufacturers or products covered in this blog; nor do I want to be.... I'm just a content ultrasonic user who happened to need a few attempts to finally get things right.]

Good shopping!

-dModder

Tags: bait casters, cleaning, Daiwa, ultrasonic

This entry was posted on Sunday, August 9th, 2009 at 6:57 pm and is filed under Maintenance, Reels. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.