I thought I’d describe the method that I use to add oil to my spool bearings in this blog, for the benefit of those recently introduced to bait casters.  I’m sure some more experienced “b-caster” owners and reel techs are scratching their heads about now — but let me point out that most “newbs” are often left to their own ingenuity when it comes to adding spool oil; and based on the questions I’ve got, they need  a little help getting started.  So, the method that I’ll describe is what I’ve been using for the past couple decades; even though it isn’t a revolutionary approach, it’s probably just as good a place as any for a new reel owner to begin. I’ll also cover a few tips, insights and potential problems along the way.  However, I don’t really intend on getting into actually determining when you need to add oil, I’ll save that for a future blog. [But realistically, it would be based on how much time is spent actually using the reel, type of presentations you make, how the reel is stored when not in use, cleanliness, environment, what you observe while using and maintaining the reel, and properties of the oil.] In the meantime, you can review posts in the Maintenance Section or Bearing Articles in the Review Archive at Tackle Tour.

When you think about it, it’s no wonder that a new reel owner has questions on how to actually go about adding oil.  Even though they may have gotten instructions with their reel, the process is seldom described in any detail (if even addressed at all), and the sketches that are included often leave a lot to be desired. Add in the fact that some instruction sheets are written in a language the user can’t read, and the stage is set for plenty of questions!  Lastly, I don’t believe I’ve ever seen any instructions that caution about over lubricating the bearings – and worse yet, some may even tell you to add spool oil before each and every use!

Let me start-off by saying that there are many different ways to go about the process, and maybe the method you’ve been using has worked well over the years.  Far be it from me to even suggest you change what you’ve been doing – especially if you’re happy with the results you’re getting.  Chances are you’ve gone through the trials and tribulations of tweaking “your method” and finally have it down to just the way you like it…  and that’s O.K!  Besides, I’m convinced that the techniques an angler develops at the workbench are just as varied as those you see on the water.

Background

Over the years I’ve found that being consistent when adding oil to spool bearings, is one of the keys to ensuring they perform with just the right amount of lubrication.  So when questioned about how much oil to add, my typical response gets around to recommending only one well placed drop per bearing.

I guess myself and others have adopted the description of “one drop” to reflect a finite and measured quantity – in hopes of dispelling one’s desire to ’squirt it in’ or ‘hose it down’, and to discourage the thinking that if a drop is good then more has to be better! Even so, I sometimes get a follow-up question about a casting problem stemming from over lubrication, especially when dealing with ceramic hybrid spool bearings.  [I'll get to the 'well placed drop' part a little later in the blog.]

You can add too much oil to a spool bearing, either by applying way too much whenever you put it in or by re-adding it way too often during use.  In either case, the initial result will likely be:

• Casting performance is usually affected especially with lighter weight lures, as distance and accuracy is reduced by increased lubricant friction from the excess oil.  [Imagine running in water up to your waist.] This can be much worse in the case of ceramic ball bearings (e.g. ceramic hybrid or full ceramic bearings), since the lighter balls will loose relative momentum at a much faster rate, when compared to heavier stainless steel balls. [Now imagine running in water up to your neck.] Lighter ceramic balls are always affected more by fouling – and that not only results from debris or foreign material!]

• Noise will also increase, and oftentimes you’ll hear a subtle ‘flubbing’ sound and/or feel a light vibration during the cast.  An inexperienced angler will often describe these conditions as “Casting just isn’t the same”; but when questioned about it, the effects can be difficult for them to explain.

The good news is that excess oil will usually be expelled from the bearing by centrifugal force, as you make a few casts. [Most of the oil escapes from the small opening between the outside of the inner race and the outer circumference of the shield, if your bearings have shields.]  The bad news is that in severe cases a lot of oil can end up in places that aren’t very desirable – and reel performance may actually de-grade with subsequent use; as excess oil eventually finds its way to braking, spool tension and drag components.  In extreme cases, excess spool oil might even adversely affect paint or magnet coatings, wash grease from gears, and even pool inside the reel to dribble-out later. Cranking might begin to feel rougher, the wife gets upset with the stains on your clothes, and the material condition of the reel can be affected in the later case.

Trivia: Just about all reel techs will get around to telling you some good stories about the reels they’ve worked on over the years, and many’ll eventually describe “the reel that was dripping with oil when they opened the box!” It really does happen!

An Aside: The same situation can also develop if you go overboard with adding lubricant inside the frame of the reel. In many ways, it would be much better to go sparingly with the oil and add it much too often; than to add too much at once and have to totally strip-down, clean and re-lubricate the reel that much sooner!

I typically lubricate my spool bearings with Hot Sauce oil, but use Oust Met Oil on my upgraded ABEC 7 ceramic hybrid bearings. Both bottles have a thin metal applicator tube, just like Reel Butter and a few other common spool oils. The drop that forms and is allowed to fall into the bearing when the bottle is lightly squeezed, is fairly consistent in providing a convenient amount of oil; and nothing more!  …and that leads me to a little theory, before getting into my actual method.

Drop Theory

Size of droplets ready to fall from bottle applicators.  Notice how the slightly heavier Hot Sauce Oil droplet is a little larger than the lighter Oust Met Oil Droplet.

From a theoretical standpoint there are lots of variables involved in the mass or size of a droplet that will form and free-fall from an opening. Even if the same dropper, dropper orientation, and squeeze rate were utilized all the time; there would still be a difference between droplets of one brand of oil to another. This is because surface tension, density, additives and other characteristics of the various oils are typically very different – and the differences can have a significant influence on the formation of a droplet. [In fact, the size/mass of the droplets of some very special lubricants is routinely measured in a laboratory, as a quick way to verify that 'unique additives' have not been affected during manufacturing, packaging or storage.] Subsequently, when you compare the droplets of the same oil that form and fall from the same oil applicator; the size/mass is very similar.

Another Aside: One of the neat things I’ve noticed about modern reel oils is that the diameter of the applicator tube or it’s opening is often smaller for the lightest viscosity oils, and get proportionally larger as the oil gets heavier (more viscous).  In many ways this is out of necessity, since heavier oils are harder to move through an applicator tube opening when compared to lighter oils; yet it’s reassuring to note that the majority of today’s reel oil manufacturers got it right – and they didn’t put fire hoses on the end of their bottles! [Now if they could only do something about the reel oil that's in those aerosol containers!]

…More Background Info

Like I said before, there are a lot of different ways to add a specific amount of oil to a bearing.  I’ve even seen instrument technicians use a special dipstick or an accurately measured droplet from a pipette for some miniature bearings.  One of the reasons for adding a consistent amount each time is to eliminate at least one of the variables, should it be determined that you’ve been over lubricating the spool bearings later!

Most of today’s reels require that you remove the spool in order to replenish oil, and that’s a good time to check for signs of excess oil. Small pooled pockets of oil in bearing socket(s) or along the edges where other components meet the frame, and oil that has coated braking components or the side of the spool are just some examples of what to look for.  The bottom line is that a very fine mist of oil that is difficult to see in areas adjacent to the bearing sockets is usually O.K., but a heavy solid film or small pools usually indicate that too much oil has been added along the way – and maybe oil should be added less frequently.  Oh yeah, while you’re at it; also look for signs of corrosion, condition of coated/painted surfaces, the cleanliness, etc.

It usually isn’t necessary to remove a bearing from the spool if all you are going to do is add oil – so spool bearings are typically only removed when you need to clean them.  In addition, oil applied to the side of a shielded bearing will usually find its way into the bearing, assuming certain conditions are met (which I’ll get to later).  However, that is not the case with sealed bearings; you often need to remove the seals to add oil and reinstall them afterward.  (Sealed bearings usually have a plastic, rubber or other flexible cover on the side of the bearing that limits the loss of lubricant and fouling. In general, sealed bearings won’t usually need to be cleaned or re-lubricated nearly as often, when compared to unshielded or even shielded bearings.)

Most factory reels come with shielded spool bearings, and only a few have unshielded or sealed bearings.  However from an after-market perspective, Boca Bearings and a few other bearing houses, now sell sealed ceramic hybrid bearings that are popular with some of the modders looking to upgrade stock spool bearings.  The seals on these bearings can be removed and carefully reinstalled when they need to be cleaned or lubricated; you can go to their website for more information.

Talking about lubrication, in some rare instances spool bearings might need to be lubricated with a heavier oil or even grease (instead of lighter oil), because of the braking system or intended use of the reel. In fact, some older reels didn’t even have a braking system, and the type of lubricant used in the spool bearings/bushings and spool tension, were the only ways to control backlash.  So, consult the instructions that came with the reel or ask others what they use for that model reel if you are unsure.

Always make sure the outside of your bearing is clean, before adding any lubricant.  If not, you could transfer debris or foreign material from the surface into the bearing. If you have a doubt about the internal cleanliness of your bearings, it might be a good time to just “bite the bullet” and clean them ahead of time.  [I won't get into the details on how to do this, but you'll find more information in the Tackle Tour Review Archives or Maintenance Section of the forum.]  Lastly, there is more potential for bearings to be internally fouled (dirty), if you fish in salt or brackish water, fish in water that contains a lot of suspended solids or algae, from the shore, etc.

I don’t ever recommend mixing lubricants when you add oil or grease to your reel. There are just too many variables involved (despite what a lubricant manufacturer may claim), and in the end you just might end up with worse performance, or maybe decent performance that only lasts for a very short time.  Mixing lubricants that contain different adherents, neutralizers, stabilizers, protectants and other additives can yield unpredictable results.  In the case of grease, it can result in the oil running out of the grease (bleeding), fillers can curd (glob), and/or additives can become neutralized.  So, when I switch to a different lubricant, I always clean my bearings beforehand!

My Method

When I add oil to a spool bearing I hold the bottle vertically so the tip of the applicator is about ½ to ¾” above the horizontal surface on the side of the bearing (e.g. a shield). I slowly squeeze the bottle so a full drop slowly begins to form and eventually free-falls onto the side of the bearing on its own (over a 5 to 10 second period or so). I try to aim the drop so it falls in the small opening between the outside of the center race and the outer edge of the shield, but invariably some oil will end up on the shield and disperse around it. However, the vast majority of the oil enters the bearing because it is so light, and capillary action will usually draw most of the excess from the shield.

Special Note: The temperature of the oil and bearing can be a factor in how readily the oil will disperse, so remember that if you blow your bearings dry with canned air after cleaning them.  In addition, if the bearing or bearing surface is dirty or you are mixing lubricants; then capillary forces may not be as great and more oil will likely just pool on the surface of the shield – more reasons for ensuring that the surface is clean ahead of time and not mixing reel lubricants!  [I color enhanced the picture at the left a bit, so it's easier to see how the Hot Sauce Oil distributed across the side of the bearing (e.g. shield, side of the race), and pooled around the shield retainer ring.]

I let the bearing sit for a bit and then slowly spin the center race on a pointed dowel to disperse the oil inside the bearing and coat internal components. Tilting the bearing while doing this may also help in dispersing the oil.

Over the years, I’ve found that adding spool oil this way to a clean bearing is sufficient for good performance. If not, then my aim was probably bad and most oil likely ran down the wrong side of a race; I didn’t let the drop fall on its own and accidently touched the bearing as it was forming; or capillary action was affected and it didn’t enter the bearing as it should.

Once all spool bearings are lubricated you’re ready to reinstall the spool and make a few casts.  During the first few casts you might even notice the extra lubricant friction from the oil you just added (as I previously described).  No need for concern right now; the small amount that gets expelled from the bearings usually only results in a very light misting of areas adjacent to the bearings, if at all.  In fact, the slight mist is needed in some reels, to lubricate spool tension and other components with just the right amount of oil. [See my previous "Inside the Daiwa Palm Plate" blog for more details.]

Hopefully I’ve given a few new baitcast reel owners a place to start and some insights about re-lubricating spool bearings.  I really haven’t described any secret technique; just a simple way to consistently ‘get it done.’ With time, you’ll likely develop your own techniques based on what you’ve experienced along the way – and there’s nothing wrong with that!

-dModder

Tags: bait casters, braking, modifications

This entry was posted on Wednesday, July 22nd, 2009 at 11:58 am and is filed under Maintenance, Reels. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.