I seldom break-down an entire palm plate like I do the rest of a reel during an annual clean, inspect and re-lube.  In fact, most of my reels have never had the palm plate disassembled, even though I’ve owned some for over 15 years.  I admit that I keep my reels covered when not in use, usually store them in a controlled environment and seldom fish in extreme conditions where I have to worry about salt, debris build-up, corrosion, etc. But someone who routinely kayaks in salt lagoons, shore fishes, or even angles in brackish water may need to periodically disassemble and service the palm side of their reel. In addition, if you are preparing to paint the reel or need to change-out a few brake adjustment components, then the following blog may come in handy.

So, let’s take a look at the inside of a TD-Z103HL +R palm plate while disassembling its components.  Although we’ll be working on a TD-Z, the arrangement and parts are similar to other low profile models like the Steez, Zillion, Alphas/Sol, Fuego, Viento, and Pixy. However, the arrangement of the TD-Advantage, TD-S103Hi, TD-1HI-T and related reels are not.  [In some ways the palm plates on these models are actually easier to work on because the configuration of the large adjustment knob and geared magnet holder are not as complex.]

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Preparation

There are some things to consider before beginning:

• The configuration of set plates and magnet holds will vary on some reel models; and alignment, tolerances and force from the magnets may cause components to slightly bind. Resist the urge to force components.
• Palm plate tabs that keep the set plate from moving when the palm plate is rotated can easily break (especially the Lexan alphas ito palm plate). Never not try to remove a palm plate while excessive spool tension is placed on the spool.  In addition, do not rotate the set plate while disassembling the palm plate, with the tabs are still engaged in the set plate mounting holes.
• Screw hole(s) in the palm plate can strip or break due to over-tightening or repeated insertion/removal of the set plate screw(s).  Ensure you have the correct sized screw driver and only snug the screws when tightening them. Do not use a thread sealant on these screws and do not attempt to use larger screws!
• If the set plate (which holds the inner magnet ring), is to be separated from the magnet holder (which holds the outer magnet ring), there is the potential for the glue to crack.  This can allow a ring to turn as the brake knob is adjusted – which will affect magnetic braking.  In addition, do not remove a magnet ring from its mounting unless it is absolutely necessary; some rings are very brittle and can crack or chip. (See my previous blog on the Daiwa magnet rings.)
• Small parts can easily be lost. So make sure you take appropriate precautions, have a suitable work area, adequate lighting, etc.

Make sure you have the schematic for your reel so you can follow along while taking apart the palm plate. I won’t go a lot into reassembly, since it is just a matter of reversing the process used to take apart the palm plate. So having the schematic will help insure you get components in the correct orientation later. You can also refer to the part names when required.

Tools and consumables you need include: 1/16″  flat-bladed screw driver or small pick, 3/16″ flat-bladed screw driver. #0 and 00 Phillips screw drivers,very small dab of your favorite reel grease, and reel spool oil

Reduce spool tension until force from the pinion under the tension knob no longer acts on the palm plate. Unscrew the set plate screw in the center of the magnetic brake adjustment knob, and rotate the palm plate ~30 degrees to disengage the tabs and remove it.

Make sure the magnetic brake adjustment knob is set at 10 or “Max”. This will reduce any magnetic force from the rings on the adjustment knob gear.  The magnets will stay in this position since opposite magnetic poles are aligned with each other, and the set plate and the magnet holder can usually be removed together as one unit.

Note: The picture at the left shows the inside of the TD-Z +R palm plate.  Most recent Daiwa low profile palm plates are of similar layout,but they will only have one set plate screw to attach the magnets to the palm plate (which is located beneath the spool bearing).  However, a few models will have an additional screw as circled in the picture.

Some models that have 2 screws include a few of the early LH Vientos, TD-Z103HL and TD-Z105HL.

Note: Daiwa magnet holders and set plates are typically made from anodized or coated metal.  They are finely machined, and made for a precision fit and smooth operation. There should never be a need to pry or use excessive force to get them apart!

Disassembling the Plate

1. Remove the bearing retainer – I suspect just about anyone who has disassembled a reel has lost more than one bearing retainer. Those small clips seem to have a mind of their own; frequently getting launched into the infinite vacuum of space by the spring force that keeps them mounted! So trust me; if you’ve never removed one before, you want to take action so you don’t loose the clip.  They are so small that they are almost impossible to find.

I like to put a finger or thumb over part of the clip to restrain it, as I push a small screwdriver or pick on one side of the clip to work the retainer out of its groove.  Some perform this step with the side plate in a clear plastic bag in case the retainer clip flies out; and still others may use a pair of tweezers to grab, hold and remove it. Do whatever you are comfortable with, but just make sure you do something to keep from loosing the clip!

2. Remove the bearing – Once the clip is removed the bearing is free to come out of its socket.  However, sometimes the bearing will tilt and become stuck in the socket.  If this occurs, just lightly tap around the top of the outer race to reposition the bearing and then pull it out.  In addition, stray static magnetic force can hold the bearing in the socket as it begins to clear the top of the inner ring. So, gently grab it with a pair of tweezers or a small pick to get it the rest of the way out.  I do not suggest tapping the palm plate on an open palm, because the bearing can fly out of the socket.  If it hits a hard surface it can be damaged.

3. Remove the felt washer (Spacer B or C) – Remove the felt washer with the tip of a small screwdriver, pick or even a tooth pick.  Be careful so it doesn’t tear, since it can sometimes get lodged between the side of the ceramic plate that is beneath it and the bearing socket.  Lay it flat on a paper towel and press down on it to adsorb any excess oil.  Inspect it for tears, thinning, soiling, etc. and replace if necessary.

The felt washer absorbs excess oil and oil mist expelled by the bearing during use, and keeps the ceramic plate beneath it lubricated.  If the felt is torn or soiled it should be replaced.

Note: The configuration of the components in the bearing socket can be a problem if you frequently over-oil the palm plate spool bearing.  Excess oil can essentially pool within the bearing socket and the net effect is that the bearing will end-up sitting in an oil bath.  This will result in poor casting performance, loss of casting distance, and increased noise.  The oil might even eventually drain from the socket onto the braking magnets, and splatter on the inductor and side of the spool.

4. Remove the ceramic plate – The ceramic plate sits loosely in the bearing socket. So, use a small pick or screwdriver to move it out while the palm plate is tipped on its side. I typically catch enough of it so I can flip it on a side and grab it; but exercise care, because it can be scratched, chipped or even crack if you try to pry it out.  (You might even damage the coating on the metal bearing socket if you try to pry the plate out.) Sometimes oil will cause the shim beneath it to adhere to the plate, so just remove both together if this is the case.

Note: The palm side of the spool tip contacts the center of the ceramic plate for spool tension.  Spool tension will not work properly if the plate gets damaged – it can crack in two if the reel is dropped so that it lands on its palm plate. (I’ve had that happen to a TD-Z when I dropped it on the deck of the boat while changing rods.) In addition, the plate can dry out and need lubricant if the reel and spool bearings haven’t been lubricated or used for an extended period. Excess vibration or a low-pitched squeal often results during a cast if the plate needs a drop of oil.

The ceramic plate typically shows little wear with reel use.  However, it may need to be periodically cleaned depending on the water you fish, how the reel is stored, environmental factors, etc.  I typically clean mine in a dilute solution of Simple Green, rinse it thoroughly with fresh water, and pat it dry with a clean towel.  After it is clean I shine a light on the surfaces to inspect for signs of cracks, chips, etc.

5. Remove the remaining shim(s) - The brass shim sits loosely on top of the screw in the bearing socket. Sometimes the shim will be copper or there may even be a couple stainless steel shims like on some of the early TD-Xs – so consult your schematic for your exact arrangement! If you tilt the palm plate over the shim(s) will usually fall out of the bearing socket, just don’t loose  or bend them.

The purpose of the shim(s) is to provide a firm foundation for the ceramic plate.  On some reel designs it can also protect the ceramic plate from the screw at the bottom of the bearing socket, level the ceramic plate on top of the screw, and ensure the ceramic plate sits at the correct height for proper spool tension adjustment. Most Daiwa reels will develop little or no spool tension if the shim(s) are not reinstalled, and if they do, the adjustment range will be extremely narrow.

Modder Note: I have made some replacement shims from other materials over the years, when I didn’t have any replacement stock shims.  I’ve used brass, copper, nickle-copper, stainless and even teflon sheet material.  Just use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the old one, and cut the new shim to same dimensions/shape.  I can’t honestly say the new shims in the palm plate worked any better or worse then the stock shims that came in the reel — but admit that I don’t fish in extreme conditions where corrosion is a factor.

6. Remove the Set Plate Screw(s) – Use a screwdriver to remove the set plate screws.  Some screws will require a Philips head screwdriver and others may require a flat blade, depending on the reel.

Note: Just make sure you don’t inadvertently try to tighten the screw because it can damage the palm plate itself. Remember the rule “left to loose and right to tight.”

Inspect the head of the screw that you remove from the bearing socket. Knock off any burrs caused by the screw driver with a small file.  Burrs can prevent the shim(s) from sitting directly on top of the screw head on some Daiwa designs and may even cause noise during a cast — just don’t get carried away with any filing (sometimes I’ll just use a dull knife)!  [Some designs actually have a small ledge machined into the bottom of the set plate for the shim to sit on.]

7. Remove the magnet holder retainer - This step may not be required, depending on the condition of the magnet set plate and magnet holder. A reel that has seen a lot of braking adjustment may be loose enough that the set plate and holder will easily disengage from the gear teeth in the knob, and they can be removed together with the retainer in place. If you are unsure about the condition of your set plate/holder, then it’s probably best to just remove the retainer – the magnets will typically stay in position because unlike poles are opposite each other. [You'll notice in the picture below that the polarization marks haven't moved and are still aligned with each other.]

Note: Make sure you don’t damage the coating on the magnet rings when you remove/reinstall the retainer. A scratch or chip can result in problems later!  (See my previous blog on the Daiwa rings for more information.)

8. Remove the set plate & magnet holder - The magnet holder has gear teeth on one side, that engage with the gear teeth on the bottom of the adjustment knob. Usually it will just lift off the palm plate, but sometimes you need to slightly-tilt the set plate/magnet holder so the teeth disengage. Resist any urge to rotate the set plate/magnet holder to remove them; the set plate is still engaged in 2 tabs beneath it!  These tabs prevent rotation of the set plate while the palm plate is being removed from the reel, and they can easily crack on some palm plate material.  The tabs can bind on some reels, so just take your time and don’t force anything.

The magnet holder can be removed from the set plate once both are removed from the palm plate.  Machined edges and magnetic force from the rings will usually keep the two pieces together. However, unless you need to work on the magnets or replace something, I would just leave them together.  [The magnets are fairly protected when both pieces are left together.]  If you do separate both pieces remember that you will be fighting force from the magnet rings and their separate poles – which can be quite impressive!

Note: Be aware that the rings can pick-up stray magnetic debris — so I keep them in a small plastic bag unless I need to clean them. See my previous blog on magnets for a good way to clean the magnets – do not attempt to blow off debris with air!

Note: The picture to the left shows the exposed palm plate.  The curved arrows identify where the screws thread into the palm plate. Although the excess material around the screw holes seems robust, the material can still be stripped or even crack!

Never use a thread sealant on these screw holes.  Chances are you’ll regret it the next time the magnet holder/set plate needs to be removed!

The bigger arrows identify the tabs that engage in the holes on the bottom of the set plate. These are the tabs that can be sheared if the palm plate is removed with excess spool tension applied on the spool – so always back-off spool tension before removing the palm plate! [Once these tabs shear-off you probably won't be able to remove the palm plate without resorting to extraordinary means.  I've heard of a few cases where this has happened on the Lexan Alpha-ito palm plate, which is almost impossible to replace!]

9. Remove the brake knob retainer – The brake knob retainer is held in place by the small post that is molded on the palm plate, which fits into the hole in the retainer.  To remove it, just slide the end of a thin screwdriver under the edge that faces away from the knob.

Note: There should be no need to force the retainer off the post because it is a friction fit.  The magnet set plate actually keeps it in place when it is reinstalled.

10. Remove the brake adjustment knob - Most of the time the brake knob will fall out once the knob retainer is removed.  You might find a small loose washer on the screw [brake dial washer], so ensure it doesn’t get lost – consult your schematic. [The washer sets between the palm plate and the bottom of the knob on some models, on the palm plate screw itself.]

The individual components mounted on the knob can be disassembled, but is seldom ever required. Consult your schematic if you need to disassemble the knob.

Reassembling the Plate

Hopefully you’ve followed disassembling the palm plate with your schematic; and have become familiar with parts, arrangement and specific differences of your reel.  Therefore, I won’t go into a lot of detail for reassembling the palm plate, since it is really only a matter  of performing the previous steps in reverse order.  Besides, I’ve already covered some the important stuff you’ll need for reassembly. However, here are a few other notes and tips:

• Before reinstalling the braking knob in the palm plate, work a very tiny dab of grease or a bit of oil over its gear teeth. No need to get carried away with the grease/oil!
• Make sure the brake adjustment knob is set at “Max” when you mesh the gear teeth between the adjustment knob and magnet holder.  This will ensure that the polarization marks on the magnet rings are aligned properly for the full range of adjustment (maximum to minimum braking), when the gears are meshed.  [If the brake adjustment knob does not have full range of travel then this was the cause.]
• Put a partial drop of oil where the screw in the center of the adjustment knob passes through the bottom of the palm plate. The oil will help insure the brake dial washer is properly lubricated and the adjustment knob won’t bind. However, there is no need to get carried away with the oil!
• Snug down the screw(s) that hold the set plate to the palm plate. Do not over tighten these screws! Make sure a screw is aligned vertical and threads are initially engaged before attempting to tighten it — you don’t want to cut another set of threads in the palm plate material.
• You may have noticed that there is a shiny-smooth side and a rough looking side on the ceramic plate.  The picture below shows both sides.  When reinstalling the ceramic plate, you’ll probably have better performance when the plate is replaced with the rough side facing toward the bottom of the bearing socket, and the smooth side faces toward the bearing. If it is reversed, you may eventually notice more noise when making a cast, and it will need to be lubricated much more frequently. [Excess oil from the felt seems to  readily disperse across the entire smooth surface to lubricate the spool tip that contacts the plate, but won't on the rough surface.] It’s worth a try!

Note: Ceramic plates have changed slightly throughout the years, and I’ve gotten recent reels with the plate installed in either orientation.  Some have worked well, and others worked until the plate finally dried out and needed additional oil lubrication, and vibration resulted during a cast.  In this case, try turning the plate over after completing the previously described steps.

• Before you reinstall the ceramic plate in the bearing socket, coat both sides with a very thin and light film of your favorite spool oil. This will insure palm plate spool tension components are properly lubricated during reassembly. Do not get carried away with the oil!
• Be careful when reinstalling the bearing retainer, it can fly out of the bearing socket and get lost just as easily as when you removed it.  I cover part of the retainer with a finger/thumb after I put 2 sides of the retainer in its mounting groove; and then use a small screwdriver or pick to push the last side into the groove.
• Lastly, don’t forget to re-tighten spool tension and set the brake adjustment knob when you are done – and before you make your first cast!

Now I need to seriously get ready for my annual migration to Paradise, …Oh Canada . I’ll be out of touch for the next few weeks.

-dModder

Tags: bait casters, Canada, Daiwa, magnetic braking

This entry was posted on Wednesday, May 27th, 2009 at 10:29 am and is filed under Maintenance, Reels. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.