I thought I’d spend a little time looking at the fundamentals behind the drag on our reels.  Yep, you got it; the stuff beneath the drag star on your bait caster or the knob on your spinning rig.  Along the way we’ll look at friction, what causes it, and how it relates to fishing and reels. I’ll also touch on a few things not related to drags; primarily to provide a little broader perspective on friction — we put a lot of effort into reducing friction, …but it’s not always bad!

In many ways the information will establish a foundation that I’ll build on later, when I get into actual drag hardware, maintenance, modding and other topics.  But for now, think of it as Drag 101 if you like.

Unlike my previous blogs, I won’t get into specific hardware in this one.  So, you won’t find many pictures of reels or components, junk box cast-offs, testimonials, etc.  Instead, I’ll have some diagrams and graphics that help in discussing the theory and basics underlying a reel drag.

A Blog Note: I’ll take the liberty of generalizing and simplifying some of the theory and principles, so we don’t get too bogged down in details or things that aren’t related to fishing.  I know that theory isn’t necessarily everyone’s bag, so I’ll start off slowly and keep things simple, while also limiting the length of this blog.  However, one of the risks in doing this is that it can introduce some inaccuracy – but it should be fine for our purposes.

Now there’s no way you can discuss reel drags, unless you cover friction. Think of the next few sections as a refresher on the basics!

Friction

Everyone on the planet has been exposed to friction; we studied it in school, deal with it every day and probably don’t always recognize it, might even take it for granted, or simply not care. But just like “the force” in the Star Wars movies… it surrounds us. An Aside: Sometimes I wonder, how many can still explain what it is and what causes it, and how it relates to our reels or even fishing; based on comments I’ve read on some forums over the years.

Friction is a force that opposes the motion of an object, and it is commonly referred to as a resistive force in physics or mechanics.  Friction occurs to some degree in just about all situations that involve physical objects.  In many cases it hinders a process, like when casting a lure or walking in water while wading.  But friction can also be useful – the spool tension control on your reel, pulling your boat out of the water at the ramp, backlash control on a friction braked reel, and the blade rotation from a favorite spinner bait wouldn’t be possible without it.

Friction helps convert one form of motion into another. For example, the friction between a rotating propeller and the water is converted into motion of your boat; and when the propeller is no longer turning, the friction between the hull and the water allows the boat to stop. Without friction, the line guide on your reel would not travel smoothly across the face of a spool while cranking, and the line would not rest evenly on top of itself.

While friction allows for the conversion of one motion to another, it also converts some energy into heat, vibration and wear.  Losing energy to these effects might not only create undesirable conditions, it will also reduce the efficiency of a process and equipment.  For example:

• Level wind components will gradually wear due to friction, and may eventually need to be replaced.
• The contact of a line with itself while tying a knot may create sufficient localized friction to alter the chemical and physical properties of the line, and it can weaken and fail later.  The movement of line through a line guide on your rod can make a distinct audible noise while casting or cranking a reel; and I suppose some would describe the vibration as soothing, while others just call it irritating!
• Friction resulting from dry or dirty spool bearings can result in reduced casting distance; it is often accompanied by increased noise and vibration during the cast, and accelerated wear of internal bearing components.
• Excess frictional heat can damage a boat engine without sufficient coolant flow. In addition, the efficiency of the engine in converting the energy from the fuel to mechanical motion is directly related to frictional affects on components.

However, the heat, wear, vibration, etc. produced by friction is useful for some aspects of our hobby.  For example, if you’ve sharpened your hooks or polished a few components while super-tuning your reel, you’ve used sliding friction to remove material and alter the surface.  Your favorite crank bait wouldn’t dive, wobble and vibrate as it is being pulled through the water without fluid friction.  I’m sure we’ve all rubbed our hands together to warm them – the dynamic friction with our skin provides temporary relief while fishing “the opener.”

The 3 most common types of friction we encounter while fishing are sliding friction, rolling friction and fluid friction. I’ll spend most of my effort on sliding friction, since this blog is primarily about drags, and will just touch on the other two. A Note: There are other types of friction that I won’t get into in this blog.

Sliding Friction

There are two general forms of friction:

• Static friction is the friction acting on an object when not in motion, but when a force is still applied upon it. The frame screws in your reel are a good example of static friction; the force applied on the threads securely fastens other components.
• Kinetic friction is the friction acting on an object when it is moving. It is frequently referred to as dynamic friction. Energy is always lost with kinetic friction, which is not the case with static friction.

A Note: The state between static friction and dynamic friction is an important condition, and is called limiting friction.  Limiting friction is the friction on an object just before it starts moving; and the force required to get it moving is often called the break-away or start-up force. [If you are taking about rotational force, it will be called break-away or start-up torque.  Many will casually refer to the state itself as “start-up” or “shear”, essentially describing the transition from a static to dynamic condition.] I’ll have more about this later in the blog; it can be important in the performance of a drag.

Dynamic sliding friction is probably the most common type of friction encountered in our reels.  It occurs when the surfaces of two objects are forced together, and they slide against each other (e.g. there is a relative motion between them). Spool drag, tension and friction backlash braking wouldn’t work without the proper amount of sliding friction. It even occurs between level wind components and gears.  Unfortunately, dynamic sliding friction is a double-edged sword – it’s responsible for wear of reel components!

The amount of sliding friction that occurs between two objects is a result of two important factors – the nature of the surfaces in contact and the amount of force that holds them together:

1. Simply put, the nature of a surface is influenced by the material it is made from, chemical and molecular properties, and its surface finish.

2. The force that pushes the surfaces together can be caused by gravity; but in a reel it typically is a result of an adjustment control, the design configuration of the reel itself, and/or conditions that occur during use.  An Aside: The force is actually called Normal Force; and for friction, is the force perpendicular to the plane of contact.

In the case of a reel drag, the compression provided by an adjustable drag star will vary the force between metal discs and friction washers in the drive gear. Loosen the drag star and you have less force between the sliding surfaces, so the force required to pull line from the spool is less.  Tighten the star and the opposite occurs. A Teaser: Unfortunately, a lot can happen in either case when it comes to our reels, and the actual results you get might not always be what you want or expect. I’ll have more on this in a future blog, when I get into drag troubleshooting, maintenance and the hardware itself.

Friction occurs in part because surfaces tend to catch on one another as they slide.  Even surfaces that appear extremely smooth will be rough at a microscopic level, like in the previous picture. Notice the ridges, grooves, gouges and pits still on the polished surface; some may have even been caused by the polishing process itself!  As the blemishes on one surface contact with those on the other, it creates a type of bond between them.

The diagram shows two surfaces in contact.  Sliding
friction partly occurs due to the surface finish.

Two surfaces in contact will attract and interact with one another at a molecular level, forming different types of chemical or electromagnetic bonds in the process.  Without getting into any of the details; let’s just say that the bonds can prevent one surface from moving across another, even when a force is applied.  Furthermore, if one of the surfaces is in motion the bonds will repetitively form and release; and energy will be lost in the process. [A Note: Yes, I used the words 'chemical or molecular bonds,' …and maybe you thought some lubricant manufacturers were making this stuff up? The specifics get a lot of attention in Tribology, which is the specialized study of friction, lubrication and wear.  You can Google 'Tribology' for more information if you don't believe it! However, I will admit that the marketing hype is getting excessive, and just about everyone is now 'touting' what has been an accepted principle for many years! But I guess it sells stuff....]

The mechanical and chemical properties of a material determines how you can finish its surface, how it behaves under compression and sliding force, how strong the molecular forces are on the surface, etc.  So, the material that the surfaces are made from will have an influence on sliding friction. A Note: Maybe you’ve wondered why Teflon or Dulron  is often used in place of bearings or even for gears which don’t carry much load? Both don’t produce hardly any friction when in contact with another material; because of their surface, mechanical and chemical properties.

Plot of Friction vs. Force for two surfaces in contact. No movement occurs until sufficient force is applied to overcome static friction.

When two materials are in contact with each other under a constant force, you can plot the applied force it takes to get them to move relative to each other.  When you do this, you’ll typically get a plot similar to the one shown in the previous picture. Notice the region of static friction on the plot; there is no motion until the applied force finally increases to the point that it overcomes the frictional force, and movement occurs.  But once you overcome the frictional force, the amount of force it takes to continue movement drops to a lower value, like in the region of kinetic friction.

A Big Note: By the way, the peak between the two regions is where the limiting friction occurs. This is typical for most cases involving sliding friction; the kinetic friction is usually smaller than the limiting friction.  Some anglers will measure or judge the effectiveness of a reel drag, by comparing the limiting force to the running force, required to pull line under drag. They might even call it “drag start-up” or “break-away drag.”

You can describe this situation a number of different ways, but a few ways you may have heard before include:

• Start-up force is usually higher than the running force with sliding friction, 

• It will usually take more force to get two surfaces to break-away [shear] and slide against each other, than it does to keep them sliding, or

• Drag start-up pull will be higher than running pull, due to the sliding friction.

Another Note: Limiting friction can also occur with rolling or fluid friction, but sometimes another type of friction might actually be involved or occur first. Confused? A Hint: The bearings in your reel are a good example of the later case, where the balls may initially slide on a race before they actually begin to roll!  The design of the bearing and how it is lubricated are just two factors that can influence this; but load the bearing carries and roundness of the balls are also important.

If you divide the frictional force between two surfaces by the applied force acting on one of them to cause it to move, you’ll get a number that can be useful in comparing the sliding friction of one material pair to another.  The number is called the Coefficient of Friction (COF) for the two materials, and there are two values; one for the static region of friction and the other for the kinetic region.  (If the surfaces are lightly greased (wet), there will even be two more values, again one for each region. I’ll get into this more when I talk about wet drag systems and drag lubricants in a future blog.)

COF will generally range in value from .02 to 1 for most common material pairs.  For instance, the COF for rubber sliding on concrete is .8 (a relatively high value), while the value for Teflon sliding on steel is .04 (a very low value).  I suppose that’s why tires aren’t coated with Teflon and roads aren’t made from steel plate, eh?! Today, most material pairs used in bait cast drags have COFs that typically range from .1 to .6 or so, but can be significantly different in other parts of our reel.

For example, some approximate dry COFs for other material pairs can be found in the following table.

Sliding Coefficients of Friction (COF) for common configurations found in a bait caster. Values are only shown for comparison.

The previous Coefficient of Friction Table is for illustration only, since exact values for sliding friction will depend on many different factors. Note 1. Notice the values for aluminum and aluminum, the kinetic COF is actually greater than 1, and is higher than its static COF. Aluminum oxide on the surface of the material can have a significant affect on kinetic friction; the surfaces will quickly oxidize and affect sliding surfaces. This can result in accelerated wear if not controlled; but if the force of compression gets extremely high the materials will eventually fuse together. By comparison, the greased COF (wet) for aluminum and aluminum is .3 static and .25 kinetic, the surface oxides are not much of a factor in this case! A big reason for keeping your level wind components lubricated, eh? It’s also why some manufacturers are now anodizing aluminum level wind components! Note 2. The COF for dry woven graphite and steel will vary across a range, dependent on the weave and fill density of the woven graphite, when all other things are considered. Note 3. The COF for dry cork and steel will also vary across a range (similar to leather and other materials), dependant on the quality, fill and density of the cork. These materials can also significantly compress, which can affect COF.

Rolling Friction

Rolling friction occurs when one object rolls on the surface of another. The Coefficient of Friction between the surfaces plays heavily in the energy lost to friction, and in some ways it’s similar to sliding friction, just usually much-much less. But compression and distortion of the surface(s) also needs to be considered, since both can have a big influence on things.  For instance, if you’ve ever driven your vehicle in the sand on the beach you know what I’m talking about; it’s totally different when compared to a hard roadway!

The miniature rolling ball bearings in our reels experience both rolling and sliding friction – although you might think that only rolling friction would be involved.  The difference between the circumference of the inner and outer races causes the balls to periodically slide on them (slip), as they roll inside the bearing!

Trivia: One might think that the COF is very low on a Teflon bushing that supports a stainless steel shaft; it’s on the order of .o4 (as shown in the previous table). However, the equivalent frictional coefficient for a properly lubricated bearing will be at least 10 times lower than that (<.004)!!! No wonder many anglers upgrade the bushings in their reel to bearings, eh?

Fluid Friction

Objects moving in a fluid or gas experience fluid friction, and it is called drag. (Drag is also referred to as air resistance when it acts between an object and gas, and fluid resistance  when it acts between an object and fluid, to hinder motion.)  Some good examples related to fishing include the flight of your lure in the air while making a cast and the way water affects your lure during a retrieve.  That should give you something to think about the next time you’re hammering a hot shoreline with your favorite crank!

Drag is much more difficult to calculate, when compared to many other types of friction.  The amount of drag that occurs is influenced by things like: the viscosity of the fluid; adhesion; turbulence; and shape, speed and material of the object in the fluid.

Viscosity is a measure of a fluid’s resistance to flow, and it results from the friction that occurs between the fluid’s molecules. The viscosity of a fluid can change significantly with temperature, and many reel oils (and greases), are classic examples where this can occur:

• As temperatures increase, viscosity will decrease, and the less affect it has on fluid friction.
• As temperatures fall, viscosity will increase and the more affect it has.

Looking Forward

Although I’ll eventually get into the drag system on a Daiwa low profile in future blogs, the general configuration is similar to other bass reels.  (The arrangement is straight-forward, but you should review your schematic for details.) A drag star attached to the drive shaft controls the compression between metal discs and one or more friction washers that set in the drive gear.  Since the drive gear is not directly connected to its shaft, it will turn backwards when line is pulled from the spool, and the force required to pull the line is directly related to the sliding friction between the discs and washer(s).  Line will even pull from the spool while you crank the reel (like while fighting a fish), since the amount of friction between the gear and shaft is dependant on the compression from the drag star. By the way, an arrangement of this type is technically referred to as a drag friction brake or clutch; anglers simply call it a drag.

-dModder

In some ways,  the level wind on your bait cast reel is like the brakes on your car. Most of the time they work great and do exactly what they were intended for – it’s easy to take them for granted while enjoying care-free performance.  However, sooner or later they’ll need to be serviced; and that new noise, different feel or way it performs might be a subtle hint that it’s time for some maintenance.  You can have bigger problems later if you ignore or don’t recognize the signs, just like the brakes on your car!

So let’s spend a little blog time looking at level wind hardware, operation and maintenance.  I’ll cover some of the fundamentals, performance problems and tips along the way. There’s even a little Show n’ Tell toward the end of the blog, compliments of my junk box. Although I’ll focus primarily on Daiwas, the information will be useful for other bait cast models.

A Blog Note: Unfortunately, level winds are about as exciting as drags …which can be a drag (pun intended). So, don’t expect any new or revolutionary discoveries, tools that I’ve developed (like from my Inside the Daiwa Spool Blog), or earth-shattering concepts.  It’s just some meat n’ potatoes blogging – intended primarily for those just getting into maintaining and using their bait casters.

The Mechanics

The design and configuration of Daiwa bait cast level winds really hasn’t changed much over the past 30 years or so.  Sure, a few models may utilize idler gears in rotating the worm shaft or even a drive plate to move the line guide, but almost all recent Daiwas essentially share the same arrangement.  Subsequently, level wind components tend to look the same, although they may not be the same size.

Note about other reels: There are just too many other reel manufacturers with different models to cover a lot of detail in one blog, especially since each will have their own hardware and arrangement.  However, most level winds do share some commonality; the worm shaft, pawl and pawl cap tend to look and perform similar across the vast majority of designs.  So, although I’ll spend most of this blog covering Daiwa reels, the information may still be of benefit when dealing with other manufacturer level winds.

The schematic below shows most of the level wind components found on a typical Daiwa low profile bait caster.  Other manufacturer reels will have components that serve similar functions, however they will be labeled differently.  For example, a pawl cap may be called a keeper, the worm holder may be called a bushing, the worm shaft could be called a level wind screw, and the guide washer may be called a shim.

Typical Daiwa bait cast level wind configuration.

Almost all level wind schemes employ a pawl that rides in the groove of a gear driven worm shaft, to move the line guide across the face of the spool.  In the case of Daiwa low profiles, the worm shaft is powered by a gear mounted on the handle shaft, which turns as the reel is cranked.  However, that may or may not be the case on other models, especially big round bait casters – where the worm shaft could be driven from the spool or the drive gear itself. A Note: I won’t go into much detail on any of these designs because they are fairly straightforward; just look at your reel schematic to identify the method(s) employed.

There are two general types of level wind systems found on bait casters:

• The synchronized level wind does not disengage when the reel clutch is disengaged for a cast; so the line guide will move during a cast, retrieve and when line is being pulled under drag.  Some may refer to it as a/an synchronous, non-disengaging, engaged or engaging level wind.On the positive side, a synchronized level wind will tend to reduce the friction of line rubbing against itself as it comes off the spool; which would especially be of benefit with braid, since braid has a tendency to “dig” into the layers beneath it. A synchronized level wind will also reduce the angle of the line being pulled from the spool to the line guide; so there is less friction at the guide, making it ideal for casting with wider spools and less line wear.
  .
  On the negative side, a synchronized level wind will use energy from the cast to move the line guide back and forth across the face of the spool – making it best with spools that have higher mass or for heavy-weighted presentations. [More momentum is generally available in this case.]
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  Synchronized level winds are typically found on wide lower profiled reels like the new Revo Toro or the bigger rounds like some of the Abu 5600/6500/6600C’s.
• A non-synchronized level wind disengages when the reel clutch is disengaged for a cast; so the line guide will not move during a cast. [However, the line guide may or may not move as line is pulled from the spool under drag (dependent on the design of the reel).] Some may refer to it as a non-synchronous, disengaging or disengaged level wind.
  .
  On the positive side, a non-synchronized level wind will not use any energy from the cast like its synchronized counterpart – making it ideal for lighter spools and/or lighter weight presentations. [Where less momentum is available from the cast.]
  .
  On the negative side, a non-synchronized level wind may result in the line guide being positioned all the way over on the other side of the spool, as line is pulled form the spool while making a cast. This could be a problem for a very wide spool, since the angle to the line guide would be quite large, and energy from the cast gets lost to increased friction at the guide.
  .
  A Note: Even so, most low profile reels have non-synchronized level winds – especially those that employ a “free-spool” design. The spool on a low profile reel is generally much narrower and the guide is further from the spool, so the angle between the point where line comes off the spool and the line guide never gets very extreme.

An Observation: I’ve found a synchronized level wind reel will generally require a little more maintenance than a non-synchronized reel – when all things are considered.  This is a result of the level wind moving twice as often, and usually with heavier-weighted lures and higher spool speeds. Even so, cleanliness, lubrication and wear of level wind components will still affect performance of either type, and periodic maintenance will be required. But we need to cover some of the specific components before I get into the maintenance.

The Hardware

Although there are usually a dozen or more components associated with a level wind, I’ll only focus on a few of what I consider the more important ones.  These are the components that can typically develop problems; a direct result of the conditions you encounter while fishing, how you maintain and use your reel, and reel design.  Fortunately, bass bait cast level winds have improved over the years, and they don’t cause nearly the difficulties that they once did.

Pawl and Worm Shaft
Contact between the crescent and crescent tips on the end of the pawl and the groove on the worm shaft, is probably the most critical factor in correct level wind performance.  The design employs what I call an ‘optimal mate’ [for lack of better terms].  On one hand the fit is sufficiently loose so the pawl tip is free to move and seldom binds as it travels within the groove. On the other hand, the fit is precise, so the pawl accurately tracks and even switches directions at each end of the worm. A Side Note: In many ways the mate is a design compromise between two extremes, which will only degrade with time. Cleanliness, corrosion, lubrication, environmental factors and use will all affect wear of the two components!

New Daiwa pawl shows shape of crescent and crescent
tips critical to proper level wind performance.

The picture above shows a new Daiwa pawl.  Note the shape of the crescent tips and the crescent itself, each has a specific role in level wind operation:

Crescent Tips: The crescent tips cause the pawl to switch directions on each end of the worm shaft; as they steer the crescent through the reversing [and crossing] tapers of the groove.  The relationship between the pawl tip width and cut of the groove are both critical to the switching action – the switching may not occur should either adversely change from wear or damage.

Crescent: The crescent maintains contact with the walls and bottom of the groove, so shaft rotation results in smooth lateral movement of the line guide.  An axial thrust develops on the worm shaft, as rotation is converted to movement of the line guide.

Unfortunately, the line guide may not lay line uniformly back onto the spool or might even stop traveling if:

• The pawl tips or crescent gets worn, fouled, or damaged,
• The worm shaft groove needs lubricant, gets worn or fouled, or alignment becomes affected,
• The pawl cap does not keep the pawl in the groove or does not maintain proper alignment so the pawl changes direction at each end of the worm, or
• The worm shaft no longer rotates smoothly.

An Observation: Some pawls have a smooth finish on the body, while others have more of a matte finish; something that I’ve casually noticed over the years from various manufacturers.  Regardless, it is not uncommon for the outside of a pawl to slowly and gradually wear with normal use.

Daiwa worm shaft has dual tapered groove that the pawl
tracks in.  The taper switches at each end of the groove.

The previous picture shows a Daiwa TD-X worm shaft with gear that has seen 14 seasons of moderate use.  Like most Daiwas, the gear and the shaft are made from a hard aluminum alloy.  If you look closely you can see light wear marks from the pawl, where it traveled in the taper – pretty much normal for a worm that has seen this much service.  I would also expect to get a couple more seasons of use from it, before it needs to be replaced.  A Tip: Keeping the worm and pawl lubricated and clean are fundamental to continued performance.

Pawls and worms have been made from various materials over the years.  Stainless steel, brass and bronze alloys, nickel and chrome plated metals and others have all been used throughout that time.  Unfortunately, some materials wore quickly while others were susceptible to corrosion – and if you fished from shore or in brackish/salt water you may have felt lucky if you got through a season of fishing before you needed to replace them.  That is still the case with a few reels today, but for the most part, manufacturers have generally adopted harder and more resilient materials in recent years. But if you have one of the older rounds or a low-end reel, it would be prudent to look for signs of corrosion, since it can quickly result in damage and wear.

Harder aluminum alloys generally seem to be the most popular material currently being used for low profile pawls and worm shafts today.  Some higher-end models also use anodized aluminum or special coatings to improve resistance to wear and corrosion.  Hey, if you are a modder you might even be able to get ceramic pawls for your round Abu!

An Observation: There have been discussions on some forums, about pawls wearing faster than the worm shaft they track in.  I would have to say that some manufacturer pawls were (are) made from softer material than their worms, but that isn’t always the case today.  Regardless, I would still expect pawls to wear a bit faster than worms even when made from the same material, since the wear in the groove is spread across a much larger surface area, when compared to the pawl tip. A Tip: When you work on your reel devote more attention to the wear and condition of the pawl tip. In general, it will likely need to be replaced long before the worm in most common situations, especially if you routinely maintain your reel. Another Observation: A pawl typically runs $2 to $4, while a worm shaft can cost $12 to $20. I guess that’s a good reason for wanting the pawl to wear first!

Pawl Cap and Guide Washer
The pawl cap and guide washer fit over the flat end of the pawl.  They ensure the pawl is correctly aligned and positioned onto the worm shaft, in allowing the pawl to move as it follows the groove.  Caps are typically made from metal, plastic, Delrin or other material, and can crack or strip threads if over-tightened.  Lastly, the level wind may operate erratically if the cap becomes loose or if the guide washer beneath it gets excessively worn.  A Tip: Although the cap may be made from metal, only snug it down when you reinstall it.  It can crack or even fail later if it is over-tightened! A Personal Note: I used to carry extra pawls and caps for my round Abu’s.  Occasionally I’d need to replace a pawl while shore fishing, and would invariably drop something in the sand! Grrrrrrr!

The guide washer provides the correct clearance on the pawl, so the pawl makes adequate contact and tracks with the bottom of the groove, and also allows the pawl to move back-and-forth without wearing or loosening the cap.  It is usually made from a softer brass, copper, bronze or other material that may or may not corrode in brackish or saltwater.  An Observation: It seemed like some guide washers would always corrode on some reels – eventually affecting pawl movement, and maybe even causing the cap to work loose. However, that doesn’t seem to be much of a problem with low profile reels today, even if used in salt or brackish water.  An Aside: Unfortunately, the cleanliness and lubrication of the washer, guide and pawl can still affect performance of a level wind.  A Tip: The pawl and washer may need to be lubricated should you find that the pawl cap has come loose.

Worm Bushings
Some Daiwa low profile reels have a worm bushing (Part No. 40 in the previous Alphas schematic), and a holder that supports the ends of the worm shaft.  Yet, others have a bearing and small collar under the gear on that side of the worm, like in the TD-Z’s, TD-ito’s, Steez’s, and other flagship models. Hey, selling reels is very competitive, and I suppose the former arrangement might provide a slightly better “price point” in the bigger scheme of things….

Fortunately, it’s possible to replace the gear bushing on most Daiwa low profiles, with a 4×8x2.5 mm bearing and a 5×6x2 mm bushing collar to improve level wind performance.  More Information: The bushing under the worm shaft gear can be upgraded on the Pixy, Presso, Alphas, Fuego, Viento, etc.  You’ll need ball bearing (part 39) F05-5601 from the TD-Z103H/105H and worm shaft collar (part 40) G01-0701 from the TD-Z 103 to complete the modification.  More information is provided in the Pixy Sticky Post at the top of the Maintenance Section and archives of the Tackle Tour Forum:

√ Preliminary Report

√ Final Report

Level wind bearings allow the worm shaft to rotate smoother and with less frictional losses, especially when under heavier load (e.g. fighting a large fish or when retrieving bulky cranks).  You’ll appreciate this if you are a tournament angler, or one who spends a lot of time on the water using the reel. However, level wind performance can be significantly impacted should the bearings get worn, damaged or fouled, or need lubrication. A Tip: There are kits you can buy to convert some of the round Abu’s over to bearing supported worms.  Check out Hatteras Outfitters for some Abu Eye Candy – lots of level wind and other goodies for Abu modders. [Special thanks to a TT Forum member for providing the link.]

Level Wind Guard
The Daiwa level wind guard has several functions:

• The guard eliminates any transient axial force from the line acting on the line guide, so it always keeps the pawl perpendicular to the worm.  This helps prevent the pawl from binding and allows the guide to moves smoothly across the face of the spool. A Tip: If you notice the line guide makes a scraping noise or almost appears to chatter when you crank the reel, try cleaning the guard or even put a small drop of spray car wax on it. However, the guard might be worn to the point that it should be replaced.
• Just as important as the previous point, the guard also reduces the potential for dirt and foreign material from getting into exposed level wind components and helps retain lubricant.  This reduces fouling/wear of the worm and pawl. A Note: This was a major problem on some of the earlier bait cast reels produced by other manufacturers; not having a guard created the need for constant maintenance!
• It prevents the line from inadvertently getting caught between the pawl and worm shaft.

Guards are typically made from plastic on the Daiwa low profile reels. However, they can be made from plastics, brass, bronze, resins or plated metals on other manufacturer reels. Although they don’t usually require much maintenance they can wear, causing the line guide to get a little jerky or wobbly on other manufacturer reels.  However, most anglers probably wouldn’t think to look for it.  A Note: Some of the metal guards would also corrode when exposed to salt/brackish water, and wouldn’t look very good. This isn’t much of a problem lately on most reels, but might be on a very low end “blister packaged” bait caster. A Side Note: One of my nephews took a low priced Walmart bait caster to a local phosphate pit we fish in late summer.  Although we thoroughly washed all reels when we got back, the plating started to flake off his guard a couple days later.  The only thing we could do was to brush off the remaining plating and keep it coated with a film of grease from that point on.

Cleaning and Lubrication

Nothing will affect the condition of the pawl and the worm shaft more, than the cleanliness and condition of both components. So it is important to keep them free of foreign debris and well-lubricated, while also looking for problems and resolving them when they begin to occur. It is not uncommon for original level wind components to last the life of a reel; with a little care, cognizance and normal operation.

[An Aside: You’ll probably get tired of hearing me repeat this over and over again …but it’s a fact! Do yourself a favor and get “anal retentive” about keeping exposed level wind components clean and lubricated! They are just too easy to forget about or neglect, until it's too late....]

Some types of debris can present unique problems:

• Sand is likely the most detrimental; it can be carried by the water you fish in, silt, or the wind – and will often adhere to lubricated components.  It presents a unique problem if you surf cast, shore fish, fish from a kayak, etc., since wear and damage can quickly occur.  Sand particles or fines may result in scratches, pits, gouges and accelerated wear of metal surfaces. Some Tips: Never set the reel down on the sand if you can avoid it. Keep a small brush in your tackle box so you can remove any sand while fishing.  Always check exposed level wind components after shore fishing, and clean as necessary.

• Algae and other organic material can result in two types of problems. Not only can it directly foul the worm and pawl when dry, but worse, it can also damage certain metals or metal coatings.  Stress cracks, pitting and blemishes can occur if the reel is stored while still wet, or if algae repetitively dries and gets whetted.  Tannic acids released by leaf and shrub debris can also stain and blemish some aluminum alloys. Tips: Keeping your reels covered while walking through brush, scrubbing and rinsing the outside of the reel after fishing algae laden water, and making sure your reel is dry before storing it are always good practices!
• The coating from some braided lines can foul the worm, causing the pawl to not track smoothly or properly in the groove.  In extreme cases it can even bind up the reel so cranking will be difficult. A Note: Unfortunately, some anglers don’t notice a flaked coating initially coming off a new line, so it ends up forming a hard deposit on the inside wall of the groove. The reel may crank a bit harder as a result of increased friction between the worm and pawl.
• Old lubricant (especially expended grease), that has picked up wear products from the pawl and/or worm shaft, can also be very abrasive.  Most of the time it will turn very dark in color, consisting of a mixture of: foreign debris; metalic oxides, scale, and wear particles; oxidized lubricant and expended additives; and other material.  So, if the grease gets darkly discolored (like in the picture to the right), or you notice a buildup of soft debris beginning to form on the worm shaft and groove, it needs to be cleaned and re-lubricated. A Note: The buildup can still occur if you lubricate your worm and pawl with oil, especially if the components are never cleaned before adding new lubricant! A Tip: Don’t expect new oil to wash away old debris! An Aside: The picture above shows factory grease removed from a pawl and worm on a Daiwa reel. I bought the reel used on the auction site; it  needed some TLC!
• Corrosion and rust can be especially troublesome for some stainless steel or plated pawls and worms. The problem tends to occur more often when the reel has been used in salt or brackish water, but can also happen with freshwater.  Keeping the components clean and re-lubricated is a good line of defense. Accelerated wear and surface pitting, and periodic “rough spots” that you feel coming from the level wind, are a result of corroded or rusted components.  A Tip: Using grease on the worm shaft and pawl may be an option in this case; just remember that they may also pick-up more debris! Corrosion-X or ReelX might be lower viscosity alternatives.  [There is more information on this in the next few paragraphs.]

Cleaning Disassembled Components
I typically clean disassembled metal level wind components in a small jar of solvent, it takes less time and effort than using cleaning solutions.  Naphtha and acetone are my favorite, but occasionally I clean with a spray solvent.  You can blow the components dry with a small can of compressed computer keyboard air, to make sure the parts are completely dry before lubricating them.

I clean disassembled non-metal or plastic level wind components in a diluted mixture of Simple Green.  I prefer Simple Green diluted 10:1 to 20:1; because it is readily available, does a good job, is environmentally friendly and disposal is not an issue. Others use their favorite dish soap, a citrus cleaner or solutions made specifically for cleaning reels. Most of the time I’ll use my ultrasonic cleaner, but I have cleaned them in a plastic container using a tooth brush.  Just be sure to rinse the parts thoroughly with fresh water afterward.

Mid-season Cleaning of Level Wind Components
Lately I remove the pawl cap, guide washer and pawl to clean them while other components are still installed on the reel, like during a mid-season clean and inspect.  On some reels this may require that you remove the front plate, which is usually held to the frame with the line guide stabilizing bar or screw. (You can typically remove the stabilizing bar from the palm plate side of the reel.) A Tip: It is a lot easier cleaning the worm, pawl cap, washer and pawl if the front plate is removed on Daiwa low profiles. Re-installation is a lot easier too! Another Tip: When you reinstall the pawl, make sure its tips are in the worm groove. Some pawl caps can be put back on with the pawl not in the groove, and it can damage the pawl and/or worm if you crank the reel!

I clean the worm while it’s still mounted on the reel with the corner of a rag that has been dipped in a little Naphtha. Just try not to get the solvent on painted or plastic surfaces, and move the line guide to one side and then the other to clean the entire worm shaft. [The guide will move easily, since the pawl is no longer installed.] Alternately, I’ve used a tooth brush or stiff-bristled acid brush dipped in a dilute Simple Green solution to clean the worm and grooves, thoroughly rinsing it with fresh water afterward.  I also wipe the level wind guard off with a q-tip or small corner of a rag dipped in the Simple Green solution.

An Important Tip: I do not suggest blowing the worm, pawl or guard off with any compressed air while they are mounted on the reel, since it can blow debris into the bearing(s) or bushings located on the inside of the frame. Some reels don’t provide a very tight fit between a worm shaft, frame and side of the bearing; trust me when I say debris can find a way into the bearing! A Tip: That is also why I don’t suggest using a spray solvent to clean mounted components, it can get into the bearing and break down any grease or oil that was used to lubricate the bearing!  The residue can even pool inside the handle plate and affect other components.

You’ll find more cleaning information in my Tool Time blog, including some of the more important safety precautions for solvents. In addition, you’ll want to consult the schematic diagram for your specific reel, to determine the best method for cleaning and disassembling the reel.

Lubrication
The lubrication of the worm shaft, pawl and pawl washer is important to correct level wind performance and minimizing wear, as previously described. However, the type of lubricant that you select should be carefully considered for your situation; since the wrong one might result in problems.  Although most reels leave the factory with grease on components, that may not be the ideal lubricant for your situation.

If I had to guess, I would say that over 50% of the anglers use oil to lubricate exposed level wind components; while the others use grease. So let’s get to the factors that should be considered when selecting a lubricant, because the choice is ultimately yours!

Oil: Oil is easy to apply, has lower viscosity and doesn’t pick-up nearly as much debris as grease when applied on exposed components.  So, it may be better choice for a shore or surf angler, who is more concerned with sand or other foreign material fouling components during use.  However, it may not be a good choice for some presentations that put heavy loads on the pawl or worm shaft, since increased wear can result.  Although it will need to be applied much more frequently than grease, this is usually not an issue, because the components are likely cleaned more often anyway.

Grease: Grease does not need to be replenished nearly as often, but it does tend to attract/hold more debris when compared to oil.  However, the inherent properties of the filler in grease will help minimize wear under extremely high loads — like when pulling very bulky baits, repetitively-ripping lures through weeds or during a presentation, or fighting very large fish.  It may be a better choice for a boat angler who is not exposed to the sand or debris that a shore angler would see, and who keeps his reels covered or stored in a relatively clean environment.  Lastly, grease is much more difficult to remove when the components need to be cleaned, and it will have a higher viscosity than oil.

I usually apply grease on the worm with a child-sized tooth brush; I work it into the grooves and onto the outer circumference of the shaft, by moving the brush as shown by the blue arrows in the picture to the right. A Tip: If the reel has been disassembled, I’ll usually apply the grease after I’ve installed the bushing/bearing under the shaft gear, and before re-installing the components back in the frame. The grease won’t get scraped off the circumference of the worm when you install the bearing/bushing.

You can apply grease on the pawl and washer by putting a small dab between a finger and thumb as shown in the picture below; working it over their surfaces. A Tip: There’s no need to get carried with the oil or grease when lubricating the exposed level wind components, a small amount will go a long way!  You should monitor the condition of the lubricant anyway (no mater what you use), and replenish it when required. Of course you’ll clean the old off beforehand!

A Tip: I do not suggest cleaning and lubricating any level wind components with WD-40.  The light oil and water displacement property of the oil that is left behind, doesn’t last very long in the environment our fishing reels see, when compared to typical reel lubricants. Unfortunately, the light oil can also prevent reel lubricants from adhering properly – so it will need to be cleaned off anyway!

It usually isn’t necessary to lubricate non-metal idler or drive gears. They typically don’t experience a lot of wear, and are often made from a Delrin like resin or plastic, which won’t retain lubricant anyway. A Tip: If you do lubricate non-metal drive or idler gears with grease, you may end up with a subtle crackling sound whenever the worm shaft moves.  Tiny air bubbles can form in the grease with gear rotation, because it doesn’t adhere very well, and they will ‘pop’ with tooth contact.  The noise will eventually stop as the grease gets displaced from the teeth.

I never lubricated my bait cast non-disengaging level wind components with grease.  The increased lubricant friction from the higher apparent viscosity grease would significantly affect casting performance! Corrosion-X or Reel X may be a better option in salt or brackish water.

Putting It All Together

QUESTION: O.K. coach, I’ve got the specifics, but what about a big picture perspective on level wind performance?  Give it to me straight and don’t sugar-coat anything; tell me what I need to do [besides keeping things clean and lubricated]!

ANSWER: Unless the reel is subjected to extreme situations or what I’d consider abnormal use, most level wind problems will only gradually degrade with use. However, the maintenance you perform on the reel during the process can reduce the severity of problems and lengthen the replacement interval.  For instance, it is not uncommon for a level wind system to perform flawlessly for decades with routine cleaning and lubrication, required maintenance when problems are identified, and normal use.  However, it is also not uncommon for a level wind system to quickly degrade, if the reel is used in severe situations and/or not maintained. [There’s nothing “earth-shattering” in this regard; all mechanical systems usually perform similar.] Unfortunately, some anglers will neglect their reel and the level wind system fails (in the later case), resulting in more significant repairs.

It may help by thinking of things this way: Nipping small issues early will prevent them from degrading into larger problems.  So, doing the annual maintenance on a reel will work to a degree (i.e. many situations). But it would be better if you did something after noticing that subtle difference in the way the line looks on the spool; the new noise coming from the worm; or when the reel feels a bit harder to crank.  So, it will be best if you resolve a small problem sooner than later!

Troubleshoot Plans

Here’s a mini-troubleshooting plan you can use when you first begin to notice the line guide is no longer moving across the face of the spool. The steps are listed in order of most likely cause for this problem:

1. Check the pawl cap to see if it is loose. Make sure the pawl is in the worm groove and re-tighten the cap as previously described. While your at it, check the pawl and level wind to see if they need to be lubricated.
2. If the reel has a plastic gear on the worm shaft, check it to see if the gear is stripped. A Note: Not all reels use metal gears on the worm, and some of the round Abu’s have been noted for this problem.
3. Check to see if the gear is tightly mounted to the worm. Some reels use a screw to mount the gear to the worm.
4. Check to see that other gears that drive the worm are rotating properly, are not stripped, etc.
5. Inspect the worm and worm shaft for damage or wear. Replace as required.

An Example: I loosened a cap on an Alphas reel about 3 to 4 turns, and cranked in about 100 feet of line that was under moderate pull.  The left side of the picture below shows how the line normally lays on the spool. [Albeit,with a pawl that has seen moderate use, but with a tight cap].  The right side shows the same pawl with the loose cap.  If you look closely you’ll see how the line lays more uniformly on the left when compared to the right.  Also notice how the line lays at the top of the spool in the right side of the picture — it appears that the pawl would occasionally have difficulty switching taper with the loosened cap. A Note: I don’t necessarily suggest that you try this on your own reel, since you can inadvertently damage the pawl and/or worm shaft. The pawl tip might come out of the groove and end up scraping along the side of the shaft!

Comparison between fairly normal lay of line on an Alphas spool (left), and the same spool that had a loose pawl cap (right).

So, here’s another plan you can use when you first begin to notice: that line is no longer laying properly on the spool; the feel or noise from level wind components has changed; or if cranking becomes slightly different/harder and you suspect it’s due to the level wind.  The steps are listed in order of most likely cause for this problem:

1. Check the pawl cap to see if it is loose. Re-tighten the cap as previously described. Determine of the pawl needs to be lubricated.
2. Check the cleanliness of the worm shaft; see if debris has fouled the grooves or if it needs lubrication.
3. Unscrew the cap and check the condition of the guide washer and pawl. Specifically observe the condition of the crescent tips and crescent itself. Clean and re-lubricate, or replace as necessary. (See the first Tip in the next step for more information.)
4. Clean and check the condition of the worm. If the grooves are gouged or burred, the bottom is scored or badly worn, or edges of the groove have started to knurl over the outer circumference, then the worm should be replaced. Also consider replacing the pawl at the same time in this instance. A Tip: It may be O.K. to replace a pawl and not replace the worm if the worm is in decent condition; but should you need to replace a worm, do yourself a favor and also replace the pawl. [Based on my old Abu round bait cast experience.] Another Tip: It may be difficult to get the bearing/bushing under the drive gear off the worm shaft, should the edge of the groove start to knurl over. Do not try and force the bearing/bushing off the worm, since it can get stuck and you run the risk of damaging the bearing/bushing.  [Excess axial force across the balls (between the center race and outer race), can damage a miniature bearing.  In addition, the knurl will sometimes get torn and the burr can get dragged between the center race of the bearing and worm circumference, and they will jam hard!  Alternately, the knurl could deform or damage the inside of a bushing in this case.]  Put some tape over the side of the bearing to prevent debris from entering it, and file off or sand the knurled edge until the bearing will slide off. Replace the worm if it has knurled and determine what you’ve been doing to cause it!
5. Check the condition of the line guide and guard, to see if it is dirty or worn.
6. If the reel has a plastic gear on the worm shaft, check it to see if gear teeth are missing or damaged. A Note: Not all reels use metal gears on the worm, and some older reels have been noted for this problem.
7. Check to see if the worm shaft gear is still tightly mounted to the worm. Some reels use a screw to mount the gear to the worm, and it can work loose; allowing the worm to periodically slip on the shaft.
8. Check to see that other gears that drive the worm are rotating properly, and any bearings that support the worm shaft or idler gears are clean and properly lubricated.

Junkbox Time!

I scrounged through my junk box and came up with some interesting level wind parts that I’ve accumulated over the past few of seasons.  Although, I don’t have the history on some of these cases, I do have “suspicions.” Think of this section as a mini-Show N’ Tell if you like – for a few Extreme Case Histories!

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The picture to the left shows a blowup of a damaged TD-X worm; a nephew was cat fishing and used the reel body with the reel engaged, to pull a snag free while spooled with 60# braided line. Unfortunately, the pawl must have just started to enter that part of the groove where it begins to switch tapers (e.g. with the level wind guide positioned to the far side of the frame).  When he pulled the reel, the pointed area between the tapers was torn — and the bottom of the pawl contacted the groove wall on the other side. [The lower part of the point is almost totally gone, and the rip extended to the outer circumference of the worm.] The arrow shows the direction that the pawl took in causing the damage. Notice how the adjacent point between the grooves was also deformed, when the pawl contacted it after the first point broke. A lot of potential energy can be stored within the structure of taut braided line!

Unfortunately, I couldn’t find the pawl when I took this picture, but we found the broken tip jammed between what was left of the pawl and the second point. A Tip: Never use the reel to pull a snag free, especially with braided or very heavy line! Level wind components, gears, anti-reverse bearing and other parts can get damaged in the process. A Note: I enhanced the picture with a little post-processing to better show the damaged areas. Unfortunately, it also created a few more shadows than there otherwise would have been, on the rest of the worm and groove.  A Side Note: When we disassembled the reel the gears, anti-reverse bearing and other level wind components were not damaged; although the line guide was also cracked. Lucky, I suspect… Oh yeah, I have no idea where he came up with the 60# braided line!

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The picture at the left shows a guide washer sitting on one of my finger; I removed it from a scrap reel that I got with several others from a local tackle shop.  Note the two distinct blemishes caused by the flat part of the pawl – the washer is noticeably thinner in these two areas due to corrosion and repetitive pawl movement. (In fact, the whole washer was about half the thickness of a new one! YIKES!) The edges of the blemishes are also raised; the washer should have been replaced (or at least flipped over so the other side contacted the pawl), long before it got to this state. Periodic cleaning and lubrication would have also helped. [I even cleaned it up a little Naphtha before taking the picture.] A Tip: Although the washer on a Daiwa will start-off in the center of the pawl and pawl cap, it can move off-center should it need lubrication. This is due to the alternating movement of the pawl, and increased friction with the pawl and cap – causing it to become off-center. In this situation, the washer no longer protects the pawl cap from wear, as it eventually starts to move under the cap. As the picture shows, this probably occurred on two different occasions!

When you cranked the reel with the washer in this condition, you could feel the distinct scraping of the pawl as it rubbed under the pawl cap (by putting a finger on the pawl cap); and occasional ticking as the tip frequently lost contact with the bottom of the worm groove.  I was a little surprised; although the  guide moved erratically, the way the line laid didn’t seem to be affected nearly as much as I thought it would have been. The picture to the right shows the inside of the cap, if you look closely you can see that it has been significantly worn.

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The picture to the left shows a worn TD-X pawl, I took it out of a reel that was given to me for scrap parts.  Notice that the crescent tips and crescent itself has been badly worn. When I tested the reel the line guide would hang up on the palm plate side of the frame, and would not switch tapers unless I put significant pull on the line while cranking.  The lateral force on the guide from the line pull would eventually cause the pawl to switch tapers. [Go back up the page and look at a new pawl!]

The length of the pawl was also significantly reduced due to wear of the crescent itself. I suspect this contributed to the crescent also wearing shallower, than it normally would be on a new pawl – possibly over rotating inside the line guide as one of the crescent tips eventually made contact with a wall of the groove.  The pawl had obviously been used for a long time without proper lubrication or cleaning; the slight taper on the end of the tip is almost gone. A Note: I wish I had taken an as-found picture of the pawl when I removed it from the reel. However, that was long ago, and I cleaned it in Naphtha before tossing it in my junk box. The factory grease(?) was impregnated with aluminum wear products from the pawl and worm, and other debris.  I suspect it was used this way for a long-long-long time!

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The picture to the left shows a worm shaft from an early TD-S. The reel wouldn’t crank; the level wind was jammed tight!

When I disassembled the reel I found that the pawl tip was bent and was wedged on the side of the worm.  I suspect it fell victim to a loose pawl cap and worn guide washer; but cant’ really say what caused the pawl to finally come out of the groove, to end up where it did. The pawl itself was moderately worn, but it probably had a few more seasons in it — if it hadn’t met an untimely demise.

The level wind was in the worst shape, but the pinion gear was also damaged, probably due to the previous owner attempting to crank the reel with the pawl jammed hard.

As Usual: I’m not associated with any retailers or manufacturers mentioned in this blog.

...by the way:

-dModder

I’ve been tinkering with Daiwa spool braking components for the past few years.  Fooling with things like inductors, tabs, springs and other parts found on the low profiled bait casters.  Unfortunately, I don’t think Daiwa really intended for anyone to work on them; it can be a challenge that requires patience, skill and dexterity. But if you are spool modder you have no choice….

So let’s spend some time exploring Magforce spool components. I’ll introduce the three different Magforce designs, explain how to disassemble and reassemble a Magforce V and Z spool, and show you a couple of tools that will help. Lastly, this blog will provide a foundation for the spool mechanics underlying the braking designs, which I’ll build upon later.

Beware The Other Darkside…

I’m going to cover some more-advanced bench activities in this blog, when I get into disassembling a spool.  Trust me, it is not my intent to get everyone who reads it, to go out and start tearing theirs apart.  In fact, it can be frustrating and isn’t as easy as it looks – and you can quickly ruin a spool just by simply loosing or damaging the wrong part.

Unfortunately, the chipped TD-Z +R spool at the left serves as a good example for what can happen if you venture into spool modding [yep,  The Other Dark Side].  It slipped out of my hands as I was taking pictures for this blog!

If your spool’s magnetic braking system isn’t working properly, try cleaning and exercising the components as described in the Polishing the Sol Article; no dis-assembly is required.  If that doesn’t solve the problem, then you might want to seriously consider sending the reel to a good service tech, or just get another spool. If it sounds like I’m trying to get you to think twice about disassembling your spool …I am.

Even though I’ll show you the best methods and tools I’ve found so far, I would be remiss if I didn’t point out that there are risks that should be considered beforehand. It’s easy to damage a spool; and it can happen in less time than it took you to read this sentence!  “Beware the Other Dark Side …and Tread Carefully!” [familiar quote borrowed from a TT Admin, …and modded by –dModder]

Now I need to cover a little background information. So let’s start with the spools and Magforce design.

Magforce Spool Basics

Daiwa employs three different braking configurations on their spools; the Magforce, Magforce V and Magforce Z braking systems.  The difference in the Magforce designs is primarily related to the spool braking components and what occurs as the spool rotates.  There is a close correlation between the  braking system selected in design, and the applications the reel is intended for. All three designs will be found on bait cast reels being sold today.

Magforce

In the Magforce design, the spool inductor is fixed to the spool (and really can’t be removed), so braking torque developed during a cast or pitch is directly related to spool speed.  Simply put; more speed, then more braking torque; less speed, then less braking torque. [Check out the Exploring Magnetic Brakes Blog if you want more  information on the theory.]

The Presso, Big Bait Special, TD-X 100HSD and Viento are some examples of recent reels that use a simple Magforce design. The previous picture shows the fixed inductor on a Viento spool and the picture below shows a BBS and early TD-X inductor.

Fixed Magforce spool inductors on the Big Bait Special (left) and early TD-X (right).

Magforce V

Daiwa introduced the Magforce V braking system after the simple Magforce braking system. Magforce V features a design that doesn’t have a fixed inductor; instead the inductor is designed to move axially on the spool shaft. Centrifugal force acting on tabs that slide on the inside wall of a tapered spool, causes the braking inductor to slowly move further into the braking magnets. The net effect is that more braking torque not only gets developed by increased spool speed, but now, even more torque is developed the further the inductor moves into the magnets.  As you may recall from my first magnetic braking blog, braking torque also increases when more of the inductor surface is exposed to magnetic flux. It’s no wonder that many referred to Magforce V as a more advanced design when it was introduced; since it provides additional braking torque when backlash is most likely to occur. Technically, it is a centrifugal-variable eddy current braking design.

The spring loaded inductor moves back out of the magnets as spool speed decreases toward the end of the cast (centrifugal force acting on the tabs falls off). So braking torque not only drops due to reduced spool speed, but also, because less inductor surface is exposed to magnetic flux.

The Magforce V braking system is found on the Steez 103H/100SHA/103SHA, TD-Z 103/105s, TD-X 103HSDF, Pixy, Alphas, Sol and many other reels today.

Exercising a Sol Magforce V braking system.

Magforce Z

Daiwa released their Magforce Z braking system a few years later. In many ways it is similar to the Magforce V design, but the tabs don’t slide on the wall of a tapered spool. Instead they run on a special tapered ring that is integral with the spool or a machine-tapered collar within the spool.  So, the new design allows the use of the advanced braking design on deep-bottomed spools that have flat sides.  But wait, there’s more! The angle of the tab ring, mass of the tabs and design of the other braking components can be selected to provide even more braking during the highest spool velocities, and a much-less braking above and below that.

The net effect is that higher spool speeds might be achieved with Magforce Z braking, since most of the additional braking torque is heavily applied only during the most critical part of a cast (when backlash would begin to occur) – making it best suited for higher speed casting and/or with heavier weighted lures. [Check out the Backlash, Magnetic Braking and Spool Tension Blog for more information.] It’s no wonder, that some view it as a more efficient design for higher speed presentations.

The Magforce Z braking system is found on the Steez 100H/SH, Zillions, Fuego, TD-A 153HST/HSTA and other reels.

Steez 100H Magforce Z spool.

Remember when I said there was a close correlation between the  braking system selected in a reels design, and the applications the reel is intended for?  I know it’s dangerous to generalize, but in many ways it becomes most apparent when you look at tuning, which is the next step in the evolution of the Magforce design!  A Note: I’ve provided a 10,000 foot level explanation of the Magforce braking designs, and left out much of the detail. Stay tuned for future blogs.

The Mechanics

I don’t recall ever seeing a Daiwa schematic that identified individual Magforce V or Z spool Part Numbers. Heck, I don’t remember ever seeing a schematic with Part Names, even though Key Numbers are assigned to them. So, I’ve taken the liberty to provide my own names for this blog, and you can refer to them in the picture below. The majority of the parts I’ll discuss are identified in red.

A Steez 103H Magforce V spool schematic.

Removing the c-clip on the spool shaft is what makes disassembling  a Magforce V and Z spool so challenging.  (Yep, that’s that little devil in the center of the picture at the top of this blog; Part No. 18 in the schematic above.) It snaps into a collar on the spool shaft and keeps the clip washer, brake spring, insulator/inductor and braking tabs mounted on the spool shaft.

So coach, what’s so bad about the c-clip anyway? It doesn’t look like removing it is that complicated. What am I missing? An Aside: -dModder takes a deep breath, pauses and finally admits; “That’s what I thought the first few times I tried”. Here’s some more information; it provides detail, insight and tips:

• The c-clip is mounted on the inside of the spool inductor, and the inductor is ~5/8” inside diameter. There is about ¼” open radius around the outside of the clip, so you can work on it.
• Unlike an e-clip, there are no slots on the back side of the c-clip that you can get a screwdriver or knife tip into, to slide it from its mount. So the two angled tips are the only parts of the clip that are readily accessible.  In addition, the clip itself has some moderate internal spring force, so it’s going to take some effort and the right tools to remove it.
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  The picture to the left compares the size and profile of the c-clip (left), to a typical frame e-clip (right). A Tip: Save your XACTO knife blades and don’t try to use one to pry into the backside of the clip. The fit is too close, approach angle is too steep and clip internal spring force is just too high. Trust me when I say it will be difficult getting the broken knife tip back out of the groove! Another Tip: If you loose the c-clip, don’t try to substitute an e-clip unless you find one that is the exact same inside diameter. A Daiwa frame e-clip will ripple and jam inside in the groove if you try to force it in. [Good luck trying to find an e-clip!]
• The clip is also mounted up to ¼” below the outside edge of the inductor on most spools, so you essentially have to go inside the inductor to get at it. That rules out many of the typical tools you might have otherwise been able to use. Unfortunately, if the spool is equipped with Magforce Z braking, it can be up to ½” below the outside edge of the inductor. A Tip: If you are going to attempt to disassemble and reassemble a spool for the first time, go with a Magforce V spool!
• The clip is under slight compression force from the spring and clip washer below it. So, catching both tips at the same time with a tool is tricky, and you can damage the washer and spring if not careful. But it can be done, as long as you aren’t concerned about the attempt-to-success ratio!  A Hint: Moving the washer and spring out of the way will help. I realized the advantage of doing this very early on, but struggled finding “just the right things” that also still allowed full access to the clip….
• The inductor needs to move freely into/from the braking magnets as spool speed changes. So you need to be very careful not to blemish surfaces that affect movement.  [Side of the spool, braking tabs, spool shaft, etc.] Also make sure you don’t blemish the tip of the spool that fits inside the palm plate, it can result in erratic performance and noise under various spool tension settings. Any scratches or gouges will need to be dressed-up before reassembly. A Tip: A head-worn magnifying visor sure comes in handy when working on the clip or inspecting for blemishes!
• While fumbling around with various tools, you also need to keep the spool steady, and position it in front of a light so you can try and see what’s going on.  You’ll have to put some ‘odd’ forces on the spool shaft and tips of the clip during removal, which also means, it might need to be periodically repositioned. A Testimonial: My wife still “reminds” me about the first few attempts she “helped” me with. It seems like yesterday every time she still brings it up! [I quickly realized that I needed to get the process to the point that I didn’t need a couple extra hands!] A Tip: A small hobby vice will hold the bearing end of the spool if you want to compromise; just don’t use one with metal jaws, and remove the pin and bearing beforehand. Also, don’t crush the side of the spool or scratch the tip of the shaft! A Teaser: But if you use the spool tools I’ll describe later, you won’t need a vice.
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• Lastly, when you get the clip part of the way out of the collar – stand by….  The clip internal spring force can cause it to “pop-out” and escape all the tools you have crammed inside the inductor! Yep, you guessed it; getting lost amongst the rest of the junk circling the plant! A Big Tip: Unfortunately, you can’t let that happen since it is a key component needed for reassembly; and is not easily replaced. A Note: Although the internal spring force of the c-clip isn’t quite as high as most e-clips in the frame of a Daiwa reel, you will still want to take action to prevent it from getting launched.

After reading the previous bullets you’ve probably sensed how awkward and delicate it can be to remove the clip. However it can be done; but use the wrong tools and you’ll spend more time and effort ‘slipping off the clip’, instead of getting it removed. A Confession: I’ll be the first one to admit that disassembling a spool was something I didn’t like to do for a long time. Hey, I like to be in control of things, and getting the clip out was clearly one case where I felt I was not! So I began trying different tools and techniques to improve the success-to-attempt ratio. I was on a mission; secretly driven by the need to find an easier and better way; I was traveling The Other Dark Side! A Note: I’ve periodically exchanged email and PMs with a few other active spool modders, and their experience is remarkably similar to mine.

In general, I’ve found that the best way to disassemble a Magforce V and Z spool is to use a 2-step process:

1. Compress the clip washer and brake spring to get them out of the way, and then
2. Use a tool to spread the c-clip tips apart while also pushing the clip from its groove.

The tools I cover in the next two sections focus on each step.  Keeping things simple works the best!

Spool Compression Tool

I’ve used all sorts of things to compress the washer and spring over the years. Stuff like tiny wire zip-ties, locking plastic tweezers, super-miniature alligator clips, modified surgical clamps, carefully bent wires, and even some things that I don’t care or want to remember.  (They all worked to a degree, just not as well as I wanted.) I eventually made a tool that I’ve been using for the past few months; it’s gone through a couple re-designs, so I’ll show you how to make my latest version. Relax! It is actually quite simple to make, I call it a spool compression tool.

Starting to make another spool compression tool….

Using the compression tool is simple, straight forward and a time-saver. (In fact I just disassembled a Sol spool in about 30 seconds as I was writing this blog.)  It can be used with one-hand (leaving the other hand free to remove the clip), and if used properly can reduce the potential for loosing the c-clip. Lastly, it still leaves plenty of room in the inductor, so you can get at the clip! My success-to-attempt ratio took a nice improvement after I started using it.  [An Aside: Hmmmm, this paragraph does sound like a Billy Mays infomercial, doesn’t it? That wasn’t my intent; so don’t ask; I won’t make one for anyone else. Hey, even a Jedi Knight has to make his own light saber!]

The compression tool is made from a strip of sheet aluminum that is 0.6 mm thick. (If you don’t have any scrap aluminum, you might find it in a hobby shop or hardware store. [0.6 mm = ~.024”]) The strip is 9 mm x 60 mm in size and I’ve provided a cutting and bending template below.

Note that the two ends of the strip are different. One end has a “Crow Foot,” where extra material has been removed, so it fits over the spool shaft and contacts the top of the spring washer inside the inductor.  The other end is for an “Edge Catch,” that lightly hooks over the edge on the other side of the spool, to keep it aligned and in position.  The light blue dashed lines show the location of the ~90º bends you make to shape the tool. (If you add up the distances between the various ends and bend locations, it will come out to 60 mm.) A Note: There is nothing critical about any of the dimensions, so no need to get your caliper out, as long as you are reasonably close– but bending the strip will be (as described later).

Spool compression tool cutting and bending template.

Use a pair of tin snips to cut the strip to the size and shape shown in the template.  Then use a fine file to knock down any sharp edges, burrs, etc. Finish by lightly polishing the edges with some 600 wet-and-dry sand paper or a dremel wheel and a little buffing compound. A Tip: It’s a lot easier if you dress-up and polish the edges before you bend the strip into shape, instead of doing it afterward!  In addition, there’s no need to get carried away with the filing and polishing, you only want to reduce the possibility of scratching the spool and other components during installation and use.

Spool compression tool made from a strip of  aluminum sheet.

Next, use a square to draw the bend marks on the strip as shown in the template, and bend it into the shape shown above.  You can use a pair of long nose pliers to make the bends, just make sure the pliers edge you bend against runs perpendicular to the side of the strip, before you bend. A Note: The tool will be lopsided and won’t work as well if the bends are not perpendicular. […how would I know that?] A Tip: Try to make a bend only once, because the thin aluminum will weaken the more times you bend it. This can allow the corner to flex instead of the pieces on each side of it as you use the tool, and it can eventually fail at the corner.

Lightly polish the edges at the corners after making the bends, to catch any burrs or bulges created while bending. Some Thoughts: I used to put a length of tape on the inside surface of the tool, the first few that I made.  But I stopped doing it because of problems.  On one hand I felt I needed the tape to protect the spool and inductor from getting scratched or blemished. On the other hand, it made installation of the crow foot between the c-clip and washer more difficult, the tape would eventually start to peel off, and it occasionally left adhesive on spool components.  I’ve probably used a tool 50 different times without tape now, and haven’t had any problems, but I’ll let you decide for yourself…. Some Tips (if you go with the tape): A single layer of tape is all you’ll need, and you can trim-off any extra from the edges.  (Excess or loose tape can interfere with using the tool.)  Lastly, a single-continuous strip of tape is less likely to hang-up when using the tool and it doesn’t tend to peel off as easily, when compared to separate pieces. A Blog Note: I didn’t use any tape on the tools used for the pictures in this blog.

Checking fit of completed compression tool on a TD-S spool.

Once you have the tool made, you are ready to install and check it on a spool.  The easiest way to install the tool is to start inserting the crow foot between the bottom of the c-clip and top of the washer first, and then compress the washer as you move the catch onto the edge at the other side of the spool.  With the edge catch in position, the crow foot should compress the washer and spring about half-way through their travel, as shown below. (Although this is usually not far enough for removing the c-clip, it will be fine for now.)

Detailed view of the compression tool mounted on spool.

The tool should also remain in this position when you reorient the spool and lay it on its side. (You’ll want to be able to do this right before you grab your clip tool and get ready to remove the clip.) If not, then carefully bow the sides slightly, to get the correct orientation.  Lastly, press on the top part of the tool and verify that the crow foot stays in contact with the top of the washer as the crow foot compresses the spring the rest of the way, and the other side of the tool moves down the side of the spool. A Tip: If it doesn’t stay in contact with the washer as you compress the top of the tool, then you’ve made the width of the opening in the crow foot too big, or one or more of the bends is not perpendicular to the side of the tool. Unfortunately, you’ll probably need to start over with a new strip.

To remove the compression tool from the spool, press on the top of the tool and move the catch away from the edge of the spool, then slowly release the pressure on the washer from the crow foot as you remove the tool from the inductor. A Note: You can see how much room is available for getting at the clip with the tool installed in the previous picture. If you look closely, you can also see the spool shaft below the c-clip, to gain a perspective of its relative size compared to the clip. Only about .3 mm on each side of the clip hangs over the side of the spool shaft. Another Note: You can remove the c-clip by catching the over-hang on each side of a tip while moving it horizontally out of the groove. However, it requires a lot more force to do it because you are not only moving the clip, but also overcoming the internal spring force of the clip in the same motion. I did that for a while, before I finally came up with better clip removal methods and tools.

Clip Tools

I’ve also slowly changed the tools used to remove the c-clip over the years. Screwdrivers, modified screwdrivers, fine tipped pliers, surgical tweezers, homemade jigs and some really weird things (that I’ll get to later), were all put to test.  Some worked better than others, some didn’t work at all, and still others even caused minor damage.  I won’t go into these tools, so I can get to what I’m currently using.

The light eventually went off, in the process of trying various tools, devices and methods to remove the clip! I found that I had best success putting more effort into relaxing the internal spring force of the clip, while also putting less effort into pushing it out of the groove.  In other words, “brute force” would work; but you don’t need to use nearly as much, if you also relaxed the c-clip at the same time!

The picture to the left shows the forces applied as you remove the clip using various tools. The top inset is what I call the Brute Force Method; it works, but is hard to control and can cause minor surface damage near the groove and on the edges of the clip. The middle inset shows what occurs if you relax the internal spring force in the clip; but that’s about all it does, and it doesn’t remove the clip.  The bottom inset shows the best approach; it combines the forces from the previous two cases. The problem is finding or making a tool that will do both; while still catching the clip and not causing damage.

Now this is going to get weird, so bear with me….  I eventually found a great tool in my wife’s cosmetic cabinet! [Hey, I left no stone un-turned when searching for the right tool!] They are called by different names in the beauty trade – but I just simply call them an “Eyebrow Plucker.”  Yep, ladies use them to “dress-up” their eyebrows, and they kind of look like a cross between a tweezers and a pair of small scissors that have flat and tapered tips on the ends. The last set that my wife picked up for me cost $1.29 at Walmart. [Whew! I feel a lot better, now that that’s out in the open!]

A cheap eyebrow plucker works great for removing the c-clip!

The plucker ends are fairly sharp, so you can catch the inside of the tips on the clip without much effort, and they are made from a softer metal that won’t readily damage the harder stainless steel components. They have handles on them that you use with a finger and thumb (on your free hand); which gives you more control while sliding the clip out of the groove, and allows you to open them ever-so-slightly to relax the internal spring force of the clip. My success-to-attempt ratio is ~8:10 (80%) right now, and most times I’ll nail a clip on the first try! It’s no wonder that I finally started to enjoy disassembling a spool….

There are even some subtle advantages to the cheaply made ‘pluckers. Here are some that I’ve realized since I started using them: They are easy to find; not that expensive to replace; you can bend the handle openings so your finger and thumb will fit inside a little easier (they seem to be made for a lady with a small hand?); the tapered ends allow the tips of the clip to slide a bit as you slightly open them during use; and the tips can be dressed-up with a file. [An Aside: Yeah I know, …another infomercial.]

Disassembly

Now that you have the right tools, I’ll explain my procedure for removing the clip and disassembling the spool:

1. With the compression tool installed on the spool, carefully rotate the clip in its groove with a screwdriver tip. (You’ll need to hold the edge of the spool so it won’t turn with the clip, while mounted in the compression tool.)  This will ensure that the clip is free to move, and will loosen any corrosion or debris at the connection.  A Tip: The spool clip could be partly corroded into the groove, since it’s probably never been removed before. I had this happen on a scrap Alphas ito spool that a forum member gave me. I suspect the spool had been used in salt water. Another Tip: If you have a lot of corrosion or debris, it might be wise to clean things up a bit before proceeding. I’ve only had one clip get totally stuck during removal, and I thought I’d never get it out – but destroyed the clip in the process. Thinking about it later, I wished that I had sprayed some Reel Magic or put a drop of WD-40 on it beforehand. A Note: If there is no visible corrosion and the tip turns freely at the connection, then I don’t necessarily recommend cleaning [or lubricating] the components. I’ve found the c-clip will tend to “pop-off” further, if you do this!
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2. Rotate the clip so the open tips are lined up with the opening at the end of the crow foot, and with both facing away from the part of the tool that comes out of the inductor. [You’ll want to orient it this way, so the force you apply to move the clip presses against your thumb, as described in the next step.] The picture to the left shows the compression tool mounted on an Alphas spool, notice the relationship between the clip tips and the crow foot. A Note: You can position the clip by either rotating it in the groove, or carefully turning the whole spool in the compression tool. But the tool might fit more tightly on some spools, so that’s why I had you rotate the clip instead. A Tip: Leave the spool orientated so the inductor is generally facing upward, as you complete the remaining steps. Not only will you be able to see better, it will prevent the clip and parts on the spool shaft from spilling out and getting lost, after the clip is removed! [Again, don’t ask me how I know this.]
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3. Use your thumb on the hand holding the spool, to also press down on the top of the compression tool, so the washer and spring are fully compressed. (No need to go overboard with the pressing, you just want to establish plenty of room between the top washer and the clip.) As you do this, try to cover the area between the inside of the inductor and side of the spool tip with the bottom of your thumb, and allow your thumb tip to rest against the side of the spool shaft. A Note: It’s a little difficult explaining how to position your thumb, so I provided the picture at the left. (The clip tips are barely visible in the picture, but are still oriented the same direction from Step 2.) The bottom of the spool is supported by the fingers of your hand and your thumb, so the spool is firmly grasped. A Tip: Covering this area with your thumb will help prevent loosing the clip if it pops-out of the groove.  If it does, most of the time it will hit the vertical face of the tool and bottom of your thumb, and will come to rest on the insulator under the crow foot. In addition, you’ll be able to control the force you apply on the spool a little better, if your thumb tip also contacts the side of the spool shaft (as you move the clip toward it). Lastly, having your thumb on the backside of the spool shaft will limit any damage should your clip tool slip, because the tool tips will contact the front sides of your thumb and will straddle the spool shaft! By The Way: Although you’ve taken some steps to prevent loosing the clip, it still could get lost – there are just too many variables involved. I don’t think I’ve ever lost a clip since I started using both tools and procedure I’ve outlined, but there is always the potential for a “first time.”  So, you need to keep that in mind and take action as you deem necessary. A Thought: I initially thought about putting a very small wad of  lint-free fabric, loosely in the inductor area under my thumb and where the clip will move to while sliding it out. However, I haven’t needed to as yet; but it should stop that little devil from flying around — and catch it if it did!
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4. Start the end of the plucker into the inductor. While keeping the plucker parallel with the spool shaft, slightly open it, so the top on each plucker tip contacts a tip on the clip.
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5. Apply force toward your thumb with the plucker to maintain contact with the clip tips, and then begin to barely open the plucker with your finger and thumb.  As you gradually open the plucker also increase the force on the plucker with your thumb tip that is on the spool shaft (the  hand holding the compression tool); the clip should slide out of the groove.  A Note: It is harder explaining this, than it is doing it. But once you actually see what’s going on, you’ll understand what you need to do. In essence, you’ll overcome the clips internal spring force as you simultaneously move the clip out of the groove – all in one fluid motion. It may seem a little unnatural the first couple times you do it, but you’ll eventually get better at it.
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6. Make sure you locate the c-clip before removing the compression tool. Sometimes it can end up sitting on part of the crow foot, and might get lost when you remove the compression tool.
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7. Retrieve the clip and put it in a safe location before proceeding. A Note: I was actually completing this step when I damaged the TD-Z +R spool. I had relaxed my grip on the spool, and then realized the clip was still on the insulator. The spool slipped out of my hand and fell ~18″ onto the hard surface of the workbench, when I went to retrieve the clip.
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8. Braking components are free to come off the spool shaft once the clip has been removed. So refer to the schematic for your reel, to get familiar with the individual components, configuration and orientation as you remove them.
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   A Note: You’ll need to know how things go back together, since I won’t provide much detail for reassembly. There are just too many reel models with different configurations!
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   Another Note: The configuration of braking systems can be subtly different. Some may include an extra washer beneath the insulator/inductor, and others won’t even have one.  Some Magforce Z spools can even have a tapered collar. So make sure you have the exact schematic for your reel model and follow along!
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9. I use tweezers when I remove the braking components from the spool. My crippled old fingers just don’t work as well as they once did – and some parts are very small and too easy to drop.
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   Put each braking component in a safe location as you remove it. The spring is so light that it can easily roll off a workbench with a light wisp of air;  and a braking tab can easily be crushed if you happen to step on it.
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   A Tip: The braking tabs will come out of the spool along with the inductor/insulator. They will fall out of their grooves in the insulator if you tip them on their side, and they can easily get lost.
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The picture below shows: the top of the insulator/inductor; back of the insulator; back side of a braking tab (yes, it’s hollow inside); and all TD-S spool components together. I’ll have more about all of them in future blogs!

Disassembled Magforce V TD-S spool components.

Reassembly

Reassembling the spool is not very difficult, so I won’t go into much detail. Instead, I’ll provide a few notes and tips that will help keep you out of trouble:

• Check the spool shaft, groove and other hardware for evidence of scratches, gouges or other blemishes that may cause the braking components to hang-up. Dress them very lightly with a small piece of very-fine wet-and-dry sand paper, only if required. A Tip: Just don’t get carried away with dressing things up and make sure you remove any debris that you create. You can clean components in a mixture of dilute Simple Green, just be sure to rinse them well afterward.
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• Use the schematic for your reel to reinstall braking components back onto the spool, it is fairly straight-forward.
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  Be sure the tapered sides of the spool tabs are oriented in the insulator, so they make proper contact with the side of the spool or tapered ring. [The picture to the left shows how the tabs mount in the insulator, in case you have a doubt.] You can reinstall braking components on some spools, with these tabs upside down, and the braking system won’t work at all!
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  The groove in the back side of the insulator will fit over the pin that is on the spools shaft. The pin keeps the inductor from rotating on the spool shaft, while also allowing the insulator to travel into and from the magnets in the palm plate.
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  A Tip: Leave the spool orientated so the inductor is generally facing upward, as you reinstall the braking components.
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• Install the compression tool to partially compress the washer and spring, after you get all components back on the spool shaft.  You’ll eventually want sufficient clearance, so you can press the clip back in the groove.
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• Although reinstalling the c-clip is not nearly as difficult as removing it, the process does require a steady hand and a little dexterity. So, I use tweezers or long nose pliers to place the clip tips into the groove before pressing it in. There should be plenty of room to do this with the compression tool installed on the spool.
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  Unfortunately, the c-clip will want to slide out of the groove and fall onto the insulator with the slightest movement. Most of the time this seems to happen just before you get ready to press it back onto the spool shaft.  So, the longer you fumble with the clip, the more chances you have to loose it. By The Way: The clip can spring out of the groove, if you should happen to not get it all the way in!
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  A Tip: Rub/lay the clip on a NIB magnet for a few minutes, so it becomes slightly magnetized.  The tips of the clip will remain in the groove and the clip won’t roll off the spool shaft nearly as easily. Another Tip: Resist the urge to use a tiny dab of grease, drop of oil, adhesive, etc. to restrain the clip. It could be difficult to clean-off and just may migrate down the spool shaft, and affect the proper movement of the insulator/inductor. A drop of water placed on the groove with a fingertip will work better than nothing; as long as you don’t drink a lot of caffeine that morning!
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• I use a pair of flat-nosed pliers to push the clip back into its groove. A Tip: I do not suggest using a pair of serrated tipped pliers; no need to risk blemishing the back side of the groove.
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• After you get the clip back in, exercise braking components to ensure they don’t hang-up, the tabs are free to move, etc.  You’ll find more info at the end of the Sol article, should you need it. Then put the spool back in the reel and make a few practice casts. Link: http://www.tackletour.com/reviewtdsolpolishingpg2.html

Wrap-Up

If you’re content using other tools, methods, etc. to disassemble your Daiwa spool, far be it from me to get you to change.  I know there are other ways to get it done (been there and done most), and that’s great!  I admit I still haven’t found “The Holy Grail” when it comes to spool tools; but I think I’m getting closer!
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An Aside: Spool modders are a secretive lot – keeping most things to themselves. They hardly ever write much about how they work on their spools, or even what they’ve been up to….  I have to admit it is difficult explaining some of the more delicate steps, discoveries that others can build on, personal thoughts, etc.; and maybe that’s why?

Pitching Note (for spool modders): If you only feather your thumb while using your Daiwa pitching reel; you might give it a try without any braking components installed on the spool. Even though you probably turn the magnets off while pitching, there will still be a slight amount of magnetic flux that finds its way to the inductor. In addition, the reduction in spool mass can also make a noticeable difference in pitching performance. For example, the mass of the TD-S spool shown in the pictures without any braking components is ~84% of the mass with braking components! A ported or other lighter spool might be even better; since braking components do add considerable incremental mass.[Just be extremely careful trying to cast without any braking components on the spool!]

A Reflection: I still remember the first time I successfully disassembled and reassembled a spool. In many ways, I felt like a young boy who just got his first kiss [from a girl other than his mom].  The elation wasn’t so much about what had happened; but what might happen later! I had visions of +R tuned Pixillas and TD-Zs with Pixy inductors dancing in my head (in the recent case)!  Little did I know, it was actually The Other Dark Side calling…. spool modding!

By the way, I’m not associated with any beauty product or retailer mentioned in this blog (nor do I want to be). I’m just a happy spool modder who finally doesn’t mind disassembling his Magforce spools …and doesn’t pluck his eyebrows in case you were wondering!

Once you get the hang of working on the spool, things do get easier. Unfortunately, that’s also the most likely time you can become too casual or complacent about things, and get careless – just like I did with the +R spool. I’m also sure over-confidence, distractions and poor judgment were contributing factors.

The Other Dark Side is littered with potholes….

-dModder

I’ve used grease in my bait caster frame bearings; as far back as I can remember. I initially packed them by hand when shields couldn’t be removed, and later removed a shield and filled them with grease when they could. Unfortunately, both methods can be agonizingly slow, frustrating and messy processes with miniature bearings! I eventually made my own greasers, so they could be filled with the shields still installed. However, I was never really happy with them; they seemed awkward to use, wasted grease and required at least two or three different versions to cover the bearing sizes for my reels. But I believed strongly in greasing my frame bearings, so I “made do” and muddled along …until I found “The Greaser”.

I stumbled upon “The Greaser” on a hobby website about 4 years ago; it was listed for greasing helicopter and other RC bearings.  I did some homework and got one, tried it out with my favorite reel grease, and have never looked back. It is quick, simple to use and does an excellent job in filling a wide-range of shielded bearings. I’ve somehow managed to collect 4 of them now!

I initially mentioned “The Greaser” in my Reel Bearings 201 Article.  I suspect there are a lot of Tackle Tour “greasers” out there, based on the PMs and email I’ve received since that time. There are also several posts in the Maintenance Section of the Tackle Tour forum about it. So, I’ll use a little blog space to provide an update, a lot more information, and a few tips based on my experience. If you’re a “greaser”, this blog is for you!

Background

A Definition: I’ve defined frame bearings in this blog, as those directly mounted on the reel frame itself.  So, spool or handle knob bearings (if your knobs have bearings), are not included in my definition of frame bearings.  However, pinion gear, level wind, drive shaft, drive gear and other bearings that don’t rotate during a cast would. [I’ll have more information on knob bearings later.]

There has been an age old debate between grease vs. oil for reel frame bearings, ever since the beginning of time. Just like a lot of things in life, there are upsides and downsides to each. Although I won’t get into much detail about the pros or cons of either in this blog (if you’re a “greaser” you’ve already made your decision and enjoy the advantages of grease) – I’ll just casually touch on them from a very high level.  Simply put, you use grease in your frame bearings or you use something else, and the choice is totally yours.

In many ways that’s one of the neat things about our hobby, we can do pretty much as we please when it comes to our equipment. Although many manufacturers grease frame bearings at the factory; that may or may not change due to personal preference, or specific needs and conditions encountered ‘on the water.’ It’s actually very similar to the rods, reels and line we select – and it’s great having options and choices!

The oil vs. grease topic comes up periodically on some forums, and members identify what they use in posts that ask for advice. Unfortunately, many responders seldom provide the basis for their choice, why they selected it, and details on their specific fishing situation – which can be a problem for someone in an entirely different situation, and who doesn’t know it. Just remember that “one size fit’s all” doesn’t necessarily apply to our reels, and even manufacturers don’t always know what exact conditions a reel will be used in. (So, maybe many manufacturers assume worse case, when they grease their frame bearings at the factory?)

Just Wondering Out Loud: It costs more to use greased bearings in a factory.  But with reel manufacturers trying to “eek” out every penny they can, you’d think they’d switch to oiled frame bearings.  Maybe they felt there would be fewer problems with greased bearings during the warranty period? What about later?

Some factors you may want to think about when it comes to grease vs. oil for your frame bearings include:

• The type of water your fish,
• The conditions you encounter while fishing,
• How often the reel is used,
• How the reel is stored when not in use,
• How and how often the reel is serviced, whether you do the service yourself or have someone else do it, and value you place on your reel.
• Characteristics of the lubricant that you use,
• Warranty requirements (if that is of concern),
• Personal preference and expectations, and
• Concern about bearing wear or effect of a bearing failure.

“The Greaser” ready for use.

The Reel Bearings 201 article provides more information about using grease vs. oil in bearings.  It also discusses potential problems like mixing lubricants or adding oil to a greased bearing, and how to clean your bearings. (By the way, the instant you add oil to a frame bearing, you’ve essentially made a commitment to service it much more often.) Maybe it won’t be as often as the oiled bearings on the spool, but it will be more often.

“The Greaser”

Precision RC Products manufactures “The Greaser” and it is sold on their website. You may also find it in a local RC hobby shop, or can use Google to search for it on the net.

“The Greaser” is actually made from 3 separate components:

1. The main body: The main body is made from 6061-T6 Aluminum Alloy and is ~2-1/4” dia. x 2-1/2” tall. It serves as a reservoir for new grease and the base for “The Greaser” when in use.
   .
   The body is finely finished and easy to wipe clean if required. It comfortably holds two 1 oz. tubes of Hot Sauce or Reel Butter grease – which is about right for greasing frame bearings in 35 to 45 reels. However, you don’t need to completely fill the reservoir to grease only a handful of bearings, but you will need to have at least .1 to .2 oz to initially fill the hole that runs through the plunger.
   .
   Trivia: 6061-T6 is the same alloy used in many automobile, aircraft and boat components. It is has good corrosion resistance, wear characteristics and weight-strength ratio. Many camera lens mounts, fishing reel gears and shafts, hydraulic fittings and boat engine components are made from that alloy.
   .
   The picture shows a reservoir partly filled with Reel Butter grease.
2. The plunger: The plunger is made from Delrin and is ~2″ dia. x 2″ tall.  It fits inside the body, and is used to compress the grease and hold the bearing while adding grease. A hole through the center of the plunger allows compressed grease to flow from the reservoir into the bearing.
   .
   The plunger has a funnel machined in its top to accommodate bearings with an outside diameter of ~5 mm to over 25 mm.  A groove is also machined near the top, so the plunger can be removed from the body when new grease needs to be added to the reservoir.  (The reservoir will be empty when the bottom of the groove gets at the top of the body, so you can track reservoir level as you grease your bearings.) Another groove near the bottom of the plunger accommodates a ~1/8” o-ring, which tightly seals the plunger to the body.
   .
   More Trivia: Delrin is made from acetal resin; it resists breakdown from most solvents and lubricants, and is non-porous and easy to clean with a dry rag.  It is also fairly durable, can be easily machined and has a low coefficient of friction. (It is often used as a bearing-replacement in corrosive environments where a metal roller or ball bearing would be impractical.)  Delrin or similar material is often used for bushings, spacers, level wind gears and yokes in bait cast reels.
   .
   The picture shows a plunger that has previously been used with Hot Sauce, Reel Butter and Cal’s Grease. If you want to switch to different grease, just remove the old grease from the reservoir (save it for later).  Then wipe the reservoir and plunger with a clean rag before filling it with the new grease, and clear the hole in the plunger with a q-tip.
3. The probe-cap: The probe is used to seal the inner race of the bearing, so grease forced from the hole in the plunger, flows into the small opening between the bearing shield and outside of the inner race. Grease fills the bearing and eventually expels through the other opening on the opposite side of the bearing. [Grease would bypass the bearing and flow out the center race instead of into the bearing, without the probe.]
   .
   The probe itself is made from 6061-T6 and the tapered tip is also made from Delrin.  The tip can seal bearings up to 15 mm inside diameter.
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   The cap fits snugly on the base; which protects the grease in the reservoir and plunger from picking up dirt and debris when not being used. A Note: I’ve had some Super Lube grease in one of my “Greasers” for a couple years now; and haven’t had any problems with cleanliness, breakdown or moisture. I periodically use it to grease the small bearings in my wife’s sewing machines, some power tools and other equipment in my workshop!

Using “The Greaser”

I’ve received a number or questions about “The Greaser”, ever since I wrote about it in my article.  In general, most wanted to know how grease actually gets into a shielded bearing and how to use it. You can refer to the diagram below, as I walk you through the steps:

1. Place the bearing on the bottom of the funnel in the plunger.
2. Put the tip of the probe in the center race of the bearing.
3. Press the plunger with one hand to get grease to flow from the reservoir, while also pressing the tip with the other hand to prevent grease from flowing out of the center race. A Note: Both should be pressed at the same time and with the same force – i.e. all in one motion.
4. Grease flows through the hole in the plunger to the bottom side of the bearing.
5. Grease enters the small opening on the bottom side of the bearing; between the shield and outside of the center race. (There is a picture showing the side of a bearing below.)
6. Grease fills the bearing.
7. When the bearing gets full, grease exits from the small opening on the top of the bearing; between the shield and outside of the center race.
8. The bearing is removed from the funnel and any excess grease on the outside of the bearing gets removed.
9. The process is repeated for the next bearing.

Diagram showing how the greaser fills a miniature bearing.

It really doesn’t take much time or effort to fill a bearing once you get proficient with “The Greaser”. I usually grease the frame bearings for a reel in a batch, after cleaning and checking them all for damage and wear. (It saves a little time doing it this way, since the bearings are ready to support reassembling the reel and you don’t have to continually switch back and forth between the reel frame and using “The Greaser”.)

I’ve never checked any of my reel bearings to determine exactly how full they were after being greased. I just haven’t felt the need to. Primarily because I can use my reels the entire 9 or 10 months of a fishing season without having to do anything to frame bearings, and there is still plenty of grease in them when I complete the winter clean/inspect!  Test In Progress: I’ve got one reel that sees moderate use during a season (~185 total reel hours in a season), and I haven’t done anything to the frame bearings for 3 seasons now.  I do touch-up the gears and other friction points at the end of a season; and visually check the bearings to see if they are still filled with grease, what condition the grease is in, cleanliness, etc. I won’t know if the reel can go for another season or not, until I check in December. However, it still performs like it always has over the past 3 years. [FYI: The TD-X frame bearings were greased with Hot Sauce in 2006 and the reel is only used in freshwater with large spinner baits. I keep it stored with a reel cover in a boat locker during the season and in my workshop closet during the winter. It's been dunked a few times; I just shake out the excess water and make sure it has had the opportunity to dry out on the boat deck, before putting it away. (I'd probably open the reel, dry it out and re-lube the frame bearings if they were oiled and the reel got dunked)]

The previous picture shows a bearing that had been filled with Hot Sauce Grease using “The Greaser”. If you look closely, you can see the grease in the small opening between the shield and center race, with a little extra on the shield. [Most of the excess grease had been scraped from the shield area on both sides of the bearing, inside the center race, and outside of the outer race.]  My Experience: After a season of use, I would expect to see a bit more grease at the opening between the center race and outside of the shield; it will get pushed out of the bearing during initial rotation — and any debris will stay outside the bearing (instead of getting inside), throughout the season!

Top of plunger (left) and bottom of plunger (right).

A Note: The Precision RC Products FAQ page discusses the possibility of using “The Greaser” to “push-out” old grease and debris, with new grease – without cleaning the bearings.  I’ve never tried it, since I always clean my bearings with a solvent to remove old grease/oil. I clean my bearings so I can check them for wear, proper rotation, damage, etc. and to ensure the new lubricant has the best opportunity to adhere.  The Bearings 301 Article found in the Tackle Tour Review Archive tells you how to check your bearings for wear, rotation and damage. By the way, I’d be interested in hearing if you use your “Greaser” to do this.

The amount of force you need to apply on the plunger (and center race of the bearing to seal it with the probe), is related to a few different factors:

• The apparent viscosity of the grease that you are using. Higher viscosity grease will require more force, when compared to lower viscosity grease.

• The temperature of the grease. Since viscosity is related to temperature, the colder the grease the more force that will be required. A Note: I typically keep my greasers in my workshop, which is kept at a fairly constant 75 to 80°F, and I’ve never had a problem. However, this might be a concern for someone who stores theirs in an unheated environment during the winter, and you may want to allow the grease to warm before using it.
• The size of the small opening between the outside of the shields and the center races of the bearing. I’ve never had a problem greasing stock or after-market shielded frame bearings. However, it might be a problem with some sealed bearings; especially in light of the previous two factors, seal design, and how they are held in place.  A Tip: Since most seals are relatively easy to remove and reinstall, it may be faster to just remove the seals before greasing, and to reinstall them afterward. I grease a lot of bearings using “The Greaser” that don’t have shields, and it works great.

I’ve used my greasers with Hot Sauce, Reel Butter, Moly-Lube TS-726, Cal’s, Abu Silicon-PTFE and Penn Precision reel greases.  [I’ve also used Super Lube Synthetic and REESE Teflon general purpose greases – for applications other than my reels.]  All the reel greases worked well in the greaser, although Reel Butter, Cals and TS-726 required more force be put on the plunger to get the grease to flow. Super Lube and Teflon general purpose greases required a lot more force to be placed on the plunger — and I wondered if the shield on the top of the bearings might “pop out”, but they didn’t.

Some “Greaser” Tips

Here are a few tips that may help when using “The Greaser” on your frame bearings:

• Stop filling the bearing the instant you see grease on the side of the probe or coming out of the bearing. It will limit the amount of grease that you’ll need to remove from the outside of the bearing before you install it in your reel. By the way, colored greases like Hot Sauce, Cal’s or TD-726 are a lot easier to see, when compared to clear or cloudy greases. In addition, it will be more difficult to see when grease exits the bearing on smaller bearings, when compared to larger ones — so you’ll need to look closely!
  A Note: I’ll bet the first time you use “The Greaser”, you’ll swear the grease isn’t going into the bearing, and the probe is allowing grease to escape through the center race. But trust me; it’s going in and back out the small space between the center races and shields. [The instruction sheet you get with “The Greaser” talks about this, but many have asked me about it the first time they used theirs.]
• As you fill the bearing slowly rotate the center race to the left and then to the right ~90 degrees with the probe. This will help distribute the grease within the bearing and it will fill quicker.
• When you use “The Greaser”, press down on both the plunger and probe at the same time (and same rate). Try not to put extra axial force on the center race of the bearing if you don’t need to.
• Use the excess grease that ends up in the plunger or on the side of your bearings to fill your tooth brush (for lubricating gears), for dabs of grease on friction points, to coat parts, etc. You won’t end up with a lot of grease in the plunger unless you do very large bearings. However, you can scrape off what’s there (and on the outside of freshly greased bearings), and put it on the side in the funnel so you can use it.
• Remove excess grease from the sides and center race of the bearing with the Delrin stick that comes with the greaser. You can scrap the stick off on the side of the funnel as previously described. [I’ve also used a Popsicle stick, tongue depressor, small wooden dowel, piece of an old credit card, and tooth picks to remove excess grease.  My favorite is a strip from an old credit card; one end can be cut with a tab that will fit inside the center race of a bearing!]
• I’ve gotten in the habit of greasing smallest bearings first, then go up to the next larger size, and so on – and finish with the largest sizes. That way, you don’t end up with nearly as much excess grease from the reservoir in the bottom of the plunger funnel.
• The greaser works great for handle knob bearings, should you want a smooth-buttery feel while cranking.  These bearings are very small and will fill quickly, so I suggest you grease them before any of the frame bearings. It will be much faster if you don’t have to remove excess grease from them, as previously described.
• If you happen to use your greaser with higher viscosity greases, do yourself a favor and make sure you fill the reservoir before it gets completely empty.  There will be a  moderate hydraulic-lock between the reservoir, plunger and the grease running though the plunger; and grasping-pulling the plunger will be more difficult when empty.
• Always store the greaser with the cap installed on the base. The grease that is in the funnel won’t pick up any debris, lint, etc. and you can still use it as previously described.
• I’ve always stored my greasers vertically and out of the way. That way they won’t accidentally get tipped-over, and there’s no chance for them to roll off my bench onto the concrete floor.
• If you are using a tube of grease like Hot Sauce or Reel Butter, you can extract almost the entire contents into the reservoir.  Just grasp the sealed end of the tube with a pair of very long needle pliers, and twist it on itself all the way up to the tip of the tube. Then push sideways on the tip to extract the last little bit of grease from the end. [It's a lot harder explaining it, than it really is; but you are going to roll the tube on itself like a tube of tooth paste.]
• A plastic prescription pill bottle works well for saving old grease, if you are going to switch to different grease in your reservoir.  (You know, one of those orange semi-clear ones, with the white snap or child-proof cap.) The plastic resists the affects of most oils found in common greases, and the lid provides a decent air-tight seal on the bottle.  Just wash it with warm-soapy water to remove any trace residue and make sure it is completely dry before filling with grease. CAUTION: Don’t try to use them for holding solvent! By The Way: Many pharmacies will sell you new plastic pill bottles with lids, and they come in various sizes.  I also use them for holding hooks, sinkers, jig heads, small screws/nuts/bolts, split rings, swivels, and snaps. My wife said she paid $2 for 2 dozen the last time she got me some at the local Walmart pharmacy.  [I have also kept reel grease in 35 mm film containers (the gray or black ones with the snap lid).]
• You can get individual replacement parts from the RC Precision Products parts page should you need them. However I’ve used the heck out of a couple of my greasers and they don’t show any sign of wear!
• An Important Point: The key to using grease is to make sure the first time you apply it, that the component is “metal clean”. It really won’t matter what grease you use in your reels, if the component isn’t “metal clean”, then the grease, protectants and other additives might not adhere properly. I’ve gotten a few PM’s from Tackle Tour forum members who felt a new grease they switched to didn’t want to adhere on gears, bearings, etc.; but when I asked them about cleaning beforehand, they said they just wiped the old grease off and didn’t do any real cleaning. I’m afraid that just won’t cut it with most reel greases! (The easiest way to achieve metal clean on a metal non-painted component, especially bearings and gears, is to use a solvent.) My previous Tool Time blog goes into using the various types of solvents, safety precautions, containers, etc.
• Lastly, The Greaser can’t be used to lubricate an anti-reverse bearing.  Use the information provided in the Reel Bearings 301 Article for anti-reverse bearings. You might even want to use oil, depending on your reel — some reel designs and bearings are very prone to anti-reverse bearing problems and the way they are lubricated!

I’m not associated with RC Precision Products, any reel manufacturer, or a hobby retailer. I’m just a very satisfied greaser….

A Note: I need to spend some time getting ready for winter. So I’ll be backing off the blogging a bit, as I winterize the place at the lake, eventually the boats, etc.  The snow will be flying pretty soon, and that’s when I service most of my reels….

-dModder

Ultrasonic cleaners have been around for over 6 decades, yet they’ve really only been used to clean fishing reels in the past 20 years or so.  The technology was initially limited to aero-space, medical, electronic and manufacturing processes due to high costs and limited supply. But that all changed with the introduction of smaller bench-top models, and anglers and reel techs began to incorporate them after prices finally stabilized.

So, maybe you’ve seen the hype about cleaning your reels with an ultrasonic on a few forums or were intrigued when you watched a reel tech use one, and finally decided to get your own? Next, you went on the web and searched around – and eventually became overwhelmed with the choices, taken-aback on the high cost of some models, and/or just don’t know which one to choose because of the technical jargon and options!  Not surprising; since ultrasonic cleaners are very popular right now, and manufacturers in just about every export country seem to be offering them like there’s no tomorrow! They come in all shapes and sizes, the sales literature makes all sorts of claims, and they run the whole gambit in quality/construction/prices/etc. It’s no wonder that many never get one, even after deciding they would.

Trust me when I say selecting the right model can be tricky. Get the wrong one and you won’t be happy with the results, may eventually stop using it, and wished you had put the money toward a new rod or reel.  Get the right one and you’ll wonder how you could ever have enjoyed life without it, you’ll likely clean your reels more often because it takes considerably less time and effort, and will be elated with your decision! 

So the purpose of this blog is to help untangle some of the jargon, provide my experience and a few tips, and hopefully get you going down the right track!  But first we need to cover a little background information on how an ultrasonic cleaner works, theory, etc. [You didn't think I'd skip that part, did ya?]

Background Info

A bench-top ultrasonic cleaner consists of a tank, transducer, power supply, and control board which are mounted in an enclosure. The transducer is bonded to the outside-bottom of the tank, and the inside of the tank holds the cleaning fluid and components that need to be cleaned.  Heat from the transducer is removed by the cleaning fluid during operation, but the tank may also be equipped with an electric heater that raises and maintains the temperature of the fluid.

Cleaning takes place when high frequency bursts of ultrasonic energy are applied to the cleaning solution that surrounds the parts. The energy produces waves of alternating positive and negative pressure as they pass through the liquid. The alternating pressure:

• Creates millions of microscopic bubbles during periods of negative pressure,
• Implodes the bubbles during periods of positive pressure, and
• The process gets repeated over and over again; related to the frequency (KHz) the unit is operating at.

The formation and collapse of bubbles is a phenomenon known as “cavitation.”  In a properly sized ultrasonic (e.g. adequate power, ideal frequency and correctly designed), bubbles will cavitate on/near the surface of the parts; and soil, debris, lubricants, etc. will be removed in the process.  When the bubble implodes it creates a jet of plasma that hits the object being cleaned.  It’s important to note that the bubbles are so small that you can’t see them with a naked eye while cleaning; but you can see the debris being removed and maybe even a little turbulence around the parts or on the surface of the cleaning solution.

The amount of cleaning that occurs in an ultrasonic is directly related to the cavitation that occurs on the parts, and characteristics of the solution itself.  So, the power of the unit, density of the waves passing through the fluid, fluid chemical properties and even the temperature of the fluid itself can all influence the cleaning process. [I'll have more on this later, when I discuss selecting a unit.]

Conceptional sketch of cavitation used in ultrasonic cleaning.

There are two different types of transducers which produce the ultrasonic energy required for cavitation: a ferrous core that vibrates in a magnetic field at lower frequencies; and a piezo-ceramic crystal which oscillates at much higher frequencies. In general, lower frequencies are used to remove heavy and larger particles, while higher frequencies are used for removing smaller particles or when a delicate surface finish needs to be protected.

The amount of ultrasonic energy that is transmitted from a transducer to the liquid in the tank is measured in watts, and is referred to as ultrasonic power [average ultrasonic power].  The relationship between ultrasonic power to the size of the tank, tank level and the mass of the parts being cleaned is critical. If the unit does not provide sufficient ultrasonic power:

• Cavitation may not occur in all regions of the tank,
• Cavitation may not occur on all surfaces of the components being cleaned, and
• Cleaning takes longer than it should or does not properly occur. [This might also imply that you'll need to operate the unit for longer periods, than it may have been designed for!]

The efficiency of just about any cleaning solution can be improved by using an ultrasonic.  Not only will it save time and take less effort, but it will also do a better job at cleaning.  Ultrasonic cavitation will usually occur inside cracks, blind holes, at joints, and inside screw holes; that otherwise might not have gotten clean.  In addition, you won’t need to use an aggressive chemical to get the surface “metal clean” in an ultrasonic, if properly-sized, operated at the correct temperature, ideal solution, etc.  The picture at the left shows an Alphas Ito aluminum frame that just came out of the cleaner; it’s as bright and shiny as the first day I got it (even though it’s been cleaned 6 times and used for over 600 hours on the water).

An aside: Bench-top Ultrasonic cleaners are ideal for cleaning metal, hard plastic, anodized metals, glass, ceramic, crystal and other hard-surface components.  Ultrasonic cleaning is not very good for cleaning rubber, cloth, soft plastic, wood or other soft-surface items.  Never use an ultrasonic to clean cork, magnets, or other items you suspect may get damaged by the solution or by cavitation. Lastly, one might think that having jets of plasma hitting the finish on an expensive reel would really mess things up, but that’s very seldom ever the case – and the cleaning solution you use might have more of an effect.

Now that you’ve got a little theory under your belt, it’s time to go about selecting a bench-top unit.  The basics will help when you get ready to pull the trigger….

Selecting A Bench-top Ultrasonic

I’ve been through a few ultrasonic cleaners that I used for cleaning my reels over the years, and I’ve learned a few things along the way.  Granted I haven’t tried every model that’s out there; but I’ve drawn some general conclusions based on my experience.  [I even got so frustrated at one point, that I stopped using an ultrasonic for a while!] So here are my thoughts, preferences, and a few tips that may help when you go to buy one. [By the way, preferences are tailored by one's experience, expectations and needs -- 'one size fits all' seldom applies.]

I’ve listed the important features that you might consider when purchasing a bench-top unit.  Hopefully you won’t repeat my painful trip down “Ultrasonic Lane!”

General Info: Branson and Crest produce very popular bench-top models; and L&R/Quantrex, Fisher Scientific, Naytech, VWR Aquasonic and Mettler units are also used in many laboratories and production facilities. (I’ve also seen SharperTek ¾ gallon and larger models in use at a couple local reel service shops.) Yet, you still need to be careful even when selecting a model from one of these manufacturers; because power, basket size, duty cycle, construction, etc. are important factors that need to be considered for reel cleaning. [I'll have more on this later.]

Like a lot of other products, the growth of the internet has resulted in a barrage of vaguely advertised and lower-quality ultrasonic cleaners.  As a result, some sellers have been quick to adopt words that imply their cleaner is ideal for just about any and all service you can imagine. You’ll frequently see words like commercial, medical or laboratory service scattered throughout a listing; or product brands that sound remarkably similar to those you may already be familiar with. So you need to carefully read ads, do your homework, check available feedback, and use your judgment before making a purchase.

Loaded basket of Daiwa Pixy components just starting to clean. Cloudy patches are debris and old lubricant being removed.

An Aside: I’ve had terrible luck with lower priced models over the years, and the last one I got failed to even make it through its first annual clean, inspect and re-lube on my reels.  Although it took a couple of “thumps”, I eventually learned my lesson. [The painful part wasn't the time/money that I had wasted; but rather the frustration I went through, since I had seen ultrasonics successfully used in labs and assembly-maintenance facilities ...and believed in the technology!] By the way, if you’ve had good success with a lower priced model from the internet/auction sites – good for you! I wasn’t so lucky.

Personally, I wouldn’t even consider buying a new unit now unless the seller is a manufacturer-authorized dealer, provides warranty or service information, and offers a money back guarantee.  If he lists a phone number that you can call to ask questions or is a manufacturer representative; so much the better!  Let’s face it, a good ultrasonic is a tool; and like many tools you get what you pay for. So don’t get lulled into thinking that one of the well-known ultrasonic manufacturers is dumping their inventory for $49.95 – and the one offered in a listing can universally meet all medical or industrial needs! NOT!

Ultrasonic Power: Read the power specification carefully, since the power provided in the description may not be the ultrasonic power rating if the unit has a heater.  In some cases you’ll see total power listed for the unit, and ultrasonic power won’t be specifically provided (total power is the heater power plus ultrasonic power ratings).  Also be careful if you see ultrasonic power listed as Peak Power or Peak Envelop Power(PEP); since average power (or just power and not PEP), is what is typically used for comparing units today.  [Like audio equipment, Peak Power will be much higher than actual power - not than anyone would try to pass a lower powered unit off as a higher one; would they?]

Some lower-priced manufacturers deliberately oversize the heater side and undersize the ultrasonic side of a bench-top unit, in order to reduce cost and/or sell what appears to be higher-powered units at bargain prices.  It’s unfortunate that most users wouldn’t recognize the difference during use; as more cleaning is actually done by the cleaning solution, rather than by ultrasonic cavitation.  In many ways this may be fine for cleaning coins, jewelry, combs, lens, CDs, false teeth, etc.; but can be disappointing if you intend to clean reels.

The previous picture shows the Daiwa Pixy handle plate after it was cleaned in the ultrasonic.  The roller bearing mounted in the plate was spotless when I examined it under magnification!

A Tip: If the unit you are considering has a heater and the ultrasonic power is not specifically listed, then you should ask – and if the seller can’t tell you what it is, this can be a warning sign that the unit may not be adequate for cleaning reel parts. So the next step is to go on-line to the manufacturer’s website and get the information yourself.  [You can often find detailed specifications for a unit and the operating manual on a good website.] If you can’t find the ultrasonic power rating or even a website – that’s not a good sign.

The total power of a bench-top unit will typically increase with the size of the tank.  Not only will the power of the heater need to increase (if so equipped), but the ultrasonic power needed to clean more parts in the bigger tank will also usually increase. However, the relationship between ultrasonic power is not always directly related to tank size; since more than one transducer may be added, the unit may have more efficient piezo-ceramic transducers instead of magneto transducers, or incorporate a totally different power scheme to drive the transducers in higher-end models. The overriding effect is that it will generally take longer to clean reel components as the unit ultrasonic power is reduced; which may not be a problem for some applications, but if reduced too low how do you know the chemical properties of the solution itself isn’t doing the vast majority of the cleaning, instead of being optimized with cavitation?

So where does that leave us for cleaning our reels? As a minimum, I don’t think I’d consider a ½ gallon unit unless it had at least ~50 watt ultrasonic power rating, a ¾ gallon unit with at least ~80 watt rating, or a 1-1/2 a gallon unit with at least ~130 watt rating.  [The wide range of component sizes, special lubricants and assorted debris found in our reels do present some unique challenges.]

As points of reference, it usually will take up to 15 minutes to clean a reel frame in my 135 watt ¾ gallon Crest, and 20 minutes in my 55 watt ½ gallon Branson. [O.K., I admit that I'm very picky when I clean my reels and probably tend to go overboard in this regard.] By contrast, a handle plate (with anti-reverse bearing still installed), usually takes 20 minutes and 25 minutes respectively. In addition I’ve also cleaned a few reels that had obviously been neglected for several years (got them at bargain prices); they were caked inside with hardened grease, a lot of dirt, and dried algae – it too about 60 minutes to get the frames and handle plates clean in my Crest!

Frequency: Ultrasonic frequencies in the range of 35 to 45 KHz work well for cleaning debris, grease, etc. from reels. Fortunately, most mid and higher-end bench top models generally fall within this range [~40Khz].  However, lower-end units can operate anywhere across the ultrasonic spectrum you can imagine, so look carefully!

Some models have controls that allow the frequency to be manually set or to automatically sweep a band of frequencies; to improve removal of specific debris, compensate for the geometry of parts, etc.  However, none of my the units have/had these features, and I did just fine without them.

It’s easy to arrange parts in a rectangular-shaped basket.

Basket Size and Construction: Basket and tank size will likely have more of an influence on selecting a bench-top ultrasonic, than you might initially think! If the basket is too small you won’t be able to clean all components at the same time, and will have to resort to cleaning in batches.  This significantly extends the time required to clean a reel and negates one of the main reasons for getting it in the first place!

As a minimum, you need a basket (or shelf) that is big enough to hold the largest reel frame you intend to clean, plus space for the side plate and other components.  In addition, the tank depth needs to be sufficient to cover the top of the frame when it’s in the basket (or on the shelf), plus ½” or so for evaporation loss.  So there is an important correlation between basket and tank size, when selecting a model for cleaning reels.

In general, I’ve found that a basket that is 5″x3-1/2″x3″ (length x width x depth), is about as small a size necessary for most low profile reels. This roughly equates to a 1 liter model, and in all likelihood you’d probably wish you had gone to the next larger size if you had to do it over again.  [If you think you'll ever do bigger round or non-low profile reels you'll definitely want to go larger!] In addition, I don’t suggest getting a unit that doesn’t have a rectangular shaped tank if you can help it.  An odd shape (e.g. oval, exaggerated corners, gradual sloping sides), can cause the parts to eventually move and bunch-up against each other while the unit is in operation, and can be difficult to arrange all components in the basket (unless it is very large).

A Tip: Based on what I know today, I don’t think I’d consider buying a unit that was less than a ½ gallon (even if it was rated at more than 50 watts ultrasonic power), unless I saw it at a yard sale or auction and could get it for next to nothing.  If the tank size is too small, it can become a major bottleneck when you clean your reels, and you might eventually stop using it!

A stainless steel tank is a must – don’t consider anything else. If I had my choice I’d also want the housing, basket or shelf to also be made from stainless steel, but that’s just my preference. I’ve found stainless is so much easier to keep clean and it doesn’t discolor or crack with use. The stainless steel enclosed units I’ve tried also seem to run a little cooler than the plastic enclosed models, which has to be better for the electronic components.  [The picture at the left shows a typical basket, tray and shelf for an ultrasonic cleaner.]

Another Tip: Do yourself a favor and make sure the unit you get comes with a cover. It will not only reduce evaporation losses, but can also reduce the humidity in your work area!  In addition, you’ll also want a basket, tray or shelf for your parts, to keep them off the bottom.  (In a pinch you might be able to make something out of stiff wire or other “odds-and-ends”, but you can usually buy a basket for a fairly reasonable price with the unit.)  I prefer a stainless basket to plastic, even though it is a little more expensive. [The last low-end unit I got had a plastic basket and it cracked the second time I used it. I suspect the heat made it brittle, and it took several attempts to glue it back together again.]

Operating Cycle Time: As a minimum, I wouldn’t select a unit that had less than a 30 minute operating cycle [or timer], and would prefer one that was rated at least 1 hour if given the choice.  Some low-end or smaller units have a very short operating cycle (up to 8 minutes or less), since it doesn’t take long to clean a diamond ring, contact lens, or coins; and the manufacturer may not have designed the unit for longer operation in order to reduce cost. [And I wouldn't be surprised to learn that they probably didn't worry about overheating or the long-term effects from continuous operation in their design.]

A Tip: The size of the timer and operating cycle time may provide insight on the durability of the transducer(s), power supply, and overall quality of the unit. If you don’t see the operating cycle time listed, ask the seller about it.  I previously provided the typical time it takes to clean a frame and handle plate in my current units. So let me give you another perspective on operating cycle: If having to stop what you are doing so you can reset the unit is inconvenient; then having to stop to let the unit cool down will be a major pain in the rear!

A bench-top unit that truly operates at its rated ultrasonic power will develop considerable heat inside the enclosure and in the tank (even it doesn’t have a heater).  I’m convinced that the last low-end model I tried eventually failed because of heat degradation – and a “post-mortem” revealed the ultrasonic power rating wasn’t even listed on the nameplate or on the transducer!  Uhhhh, what’s up with that ???&!#!

Many mid and higher-end models are rated for continuous operation, and some will have a setting that allows you to run it that way! Like any good tool, you don’t want to be concerned with how long you can use it.

Clean Pixy frame right out of the cleaner!

Heater: I’ve already touched on the heater in previous discussion, but here’s a little more information. The primary purpose of the unit heater is to raise and maintain the temperature of the cleaning solution. The tremendous amount of energy released by cavitation will generate the localized heat required for cleaning.

It’s possible to buy mid and higher-end bench-top units without a heater.  However, unless you use hot tap water to make your solution right before you use it, you’ll have to run the unit for a while to warm the solution before you clean parts. This may be fine for a time, but it does put extra run-time on the unit; and if it isn’t designed for long periods of operation it can eventually fail. Having a heater allows the fluid to be warmed ahead of time, and you don’t need to mix new solution nearly as often.

The temperature of the fluid will have an effect on the cleaning produced by the unit.  The characteristics of the cleaning fluid, debris being removed and the parts being cleaned can all be affected by solution temperature – since cavitation density and bubble formation is affected by temperature.  [I'm still surprised at the difference 5°C can have, on the rate that debris gets removed while cleaning.]

Cleaned, re-lubed and reassembled Alphas Ito ready to fish.

So, if you can afford it get a unit with a heater.  It not only makes operation that much easier, it also eliminates one of the variables that affect the actual cleaning, and you can optimize temperature for your specific cleaning needs.  Most mid-and high-end models that have heaters use automatic controls to accurately maintain the temperature.

Degas Cycle: I never had a unit that had a degas cycle, until I got my Crest.  Most of the time I’d have to run the unit anyway because they also didn’t have a heater, in order to raise the temperature of the solution before cleaning – and the solution would also degas during this time.

However, when I got my first unit with a heater I noticed that cleaning slowly improved during the first 10 minutes of operation and eventually “evened-out”.  I hadn’t seen that before, because I ran the ultrasonic to raise temperature; and figured out the fluid was actually degassing during the first 10 minutes of use!

Many liquids will hold air and non-condensable gasses – and water-based ultrasonic cleaning solution that has just been added (or has been sitting in the tank for a while), is no exception.  Unfortunately, gasses in the fluid can affect the transmission of the pressure waves, and best cavitation occurs after the gasses have been driven out of solution.  Ergo “degassing”; which is the initial removal of gases present in the solution.

Digital control panel is easy to keep clean and operate. They are sealed from water and essentially have no moving parts.

Some bench-top units come with an optional degassing cycle that will prepare the solution for use.  You just turn it on and the unit will automatically operate in a mode that drives gases from solution.  You can go about tearing the down the reel and getting other things done in the mean time.

Do you need a degas feature in an ultrasonic? No, you can degas the solution as I previously described.  A degas cycle will definitely add to the cost of a unit, but it also makes operation a little more convenient and isn’t as hard on the unit.

Drain, Timer and Digital Controls: A drain, automatic timer and digital controls aren’t really required for cleaning a reel, and they add to the cost of a bench-top unit.  However, I’ll be the first to admit that they may lend to improved reliability and convenient operation.

For example, instead of pouring spent cleaning solution in a bucket, you can drain the tank into a gallon jug if the unit has a drain line.  Since, some high-end models can get quite heavy and awkward to lift; a manual drain may be something you want to consider on a larger model.  [Just don't drain the unit until after the solution has cooled!]

Mechanical timer and switches are fine; as long as you don’t get careless with getting things wet and keep the housing clean.  However, if you clean a lot of reels, purchasing a unit with digital timer and controls may be worth the additional investment.  Most are sealed and don’t have any moving parts which can easily fail.

Warranty and Service: The inside of a bench-top ultrasonic seldom has any user-serviceable components, so service and support can be important, because you’ll need to send it in for any repair. [Let's face it, oftentimes you are paying for the manufacturer's warranty and service when you purchase a mid or higher-end model anyway. Many carry at least a 2 year parts and labor guarantee, and a lifetime warranty on the heater.]  So, a good manufacturer likely has a network of repair centers and/or website where you can request information or help.  By the way, an ultrasonic cleaner is like many other electronic devices; if it is going to fail, it typically happens during the first few days or weeks of service.

Precautions and Operating Tips

I would be remiss if I didn’t cover some of the more common precautions and operating tips.  However, always read the manual when you get your unit!

• For obvious reasons, resist the urge to put your hands or fingers in an operating ultrasonic cleaner.  Always use a small stick if you need to move a part or a tweezers/forceps if you need to remove it. (I can personally verify that discomfort can occur if you stick your fingers in an operating ultrasonic!)

• Never use strong acids or caustics, flammable liquids, bleach or bleach by-products, or solutions with a low flash point for a solution in the tank. Avoid the use of dishwasher detergents, since many contain hard abrasives for removing food particles, which can damage the finish on reel components and painted surfaces.

• Solutions should be replenished when a noticeable decrease in cleaning action occurs, or when the solution looks spent (visibly very dirty or discolored). A fresh batch of solution at each cleaning session is usually not required (unless you elect to mix new solution because your unit doesn’t have a heater); but there’s no need to stretch things to extremes before you replace it.  [I can usually clean 2 to 3 reels in my ½ gallon unit or 3 to 4 in my ¾ gallon unit before I need to replace the fluid.]

• Components being cleaned should never be placed directly on the bottom of the tank. The tank or components could get damaged or transducers that bond to the bottom may overheat. Always use a basket, tray, hanger or shelf to hold parts.

• Always allow the solution to cool before draining the tank– even if your unit is not equipped with a heater.  The transducer can get damaged or the bond with the tank could be adversely affected, if there is no solution to slowly dissipate heat – even with the unit turned off!

• Evaporation will result in a loss of fluid, so monitor level while in operation and keep it above the minimum specified in your manual. The ultrasonic is tuned so that it operates best at a specific level, and running it above or below this level can reduce cleaning or even damage the transducer.  Never run the unit with the tank drained or leave it unattended while in operation!

• Always flush components with fresh water after they have been cleaned in the unit. Trace amounts of some cleaning solutions can discolor certain metals over time, prevent lubricants from adhering properly or cause operational problems when they get re-wetted.

Cleaning Solutions

In theory, distilled water might work as the cleaning solution for reels in an ultrasonic cleaner.  However, I’ve tried it a few times on some old frames and handle plates, and the results were not very good.  Not only did it take significantly longer to clean the components, but I never felt they were as clean as they could have been by using an actual cleaning solution. The surfaces didn’t look “metal clean” and felt like they still had trace amounts of oil on them (a waxy look and feel).  I even tried increasing the temperature of the bath up to 75° C and still wasn’t happy with the results.  [But I had to give it a try!!!]

An Aside: When I thought about it afterward, my distilled water attempt was really an exercise in futility and never had much chance for success.  In many ways, the characteristics of reel lubricants and the physics related to cavitation were working against me: 1.) Many reel lubricant manufacturers deliberately put additives in their products to reduce harmful effects while fishing. It’s not uncommon for additives that improve adhesion, resist breakdown, and limit affects of water to be included in oils and grease; and 2.) The surface tension of pure water is fairly high – which actually reduces the amount of cavitation that occurs; surface tension of pure water needs to be reduced for best cavitation.

Most ultrasonic manufacturers usually recommend a water-based solution for general cleaning, like for our reels.  Commercial aqueous solutions typically contain detergents, wetting agents (reduces surface tension of the water), and other additives that specifically improve the cleaning process.  It’s no wonder that there are so many different types of ultrasonic cleaning solutions on the market, when you consider that the best composition is actually dependent upon the type of debris being removed and characteristics of the item(s) being cleaned.  Most solutions are also intended to be used from ~45 to 65°C., which is the optimum range for cavitation to occur in water (but always make sure you read the container instructions beforehand).  If the temperature gets too high the bubbles don’t implode anymore, but boil instead!

A large variety of excellent commercial ultrasonic fluid formulations are available for specific applications. I’ve used a few general purpose ones and found they work quite well, but are fairly expensive when compared to other options.  Sometimes you get a supply when you buy a new bench-top unit; just be sure to test it before you put your reel parts in it, because some fluids can discolor certain metals like aluminum or brass.

I’ve also made my own solutions over the past few years.  My mainstay is a solution of Simple Green diluted in water; 10 parts tap water to 1 part Simple Green. But I’ve also had good results with a weaker solution; 20 parts tap water to 1 part Simple Green – and it makes rinsing easier. If there is any downside to some Simple Green mixtures, I’d have to say that it can tarnish aluminum alloys if you make it too strong (e.g. stronger than ~10:1). I usually set my tank temperature at about 45°C when I use dilute Simple Green.

Another solution that I recently started using is 2 Tablespoons of Dawn Concentrated Dish Detergent in 1 gallon of water; which comes out to an amazing 128:1 mixture!  I stir it slowly with a spoon so it doesn’t create a lot of bubbles and gradually pour it into the tank.  It also does a good job, makes my aluminum Alphas Ito’s frame and handle plates shine like new, and is much easier to rinse-off. I set my tank temperature at 50°C when I use the Dawn solution.

A Tip: Regardless of what solution you use, always rinse the parts with a liberal amount of fresh water when you are done cleaning them.  Trace amounts of detergent can prevent grease or oil from adhering to metal surfaces that need lubrication, or might even cause an anti-reverse bearing to slip and not lock onto the handle shaft like it should. Did I mention you should always rinse your parts after you clean them in the ultrasonic?

Hopefully I’ve helped unravel some of the detail and pitfalls involved in selecting an ultrasonic for reel cleaning.  I admit that I still don’t have all of the “in’s and out’s” nailed down when it comes to operation; but maybe my tips and experience will be of benefit – and you can share yours.  [By the way, I'm in no way associated with any of the manufacturers or products covered in this blog; nor do I want to be.... I'm just a content ultrasonic user who happened to need a few attempts to finally get things right.]

Good shopping!

-dModder