ICAST is the vehicle for participating manufacturers to release news and information regarding planned products for the upcoming year. Many of the representatives of these manufacturers are also affiliated with other companies who have something in the works but weren’t quite ready in time to participate in the big event.
Many of these individuals have befriended us and can’t wait to see us at this or any other show so that they can give us a peak at what’s in the works. 90% of these peaks are off the record so we can’t share them with all of you until it is safe for the manufacturer in question to release said information.
This past year, we got a peak at a couple of items that we are free to share…
Coming soon from Bass Patrol - a swiveling hook jighead
This head will be released in multiple colors
Progress is quick with this new Bass Patrol offering. Just days before ICAST, we received a spy-cam image of the prototype for this jighead – unfinished and with a generic brand hook. At ICAST we were shown these intricate, finished colors and the heads featured what looked to be hooks by Gamakatsu. The last detail is still under negotiations, but that’s how quickly things are progressing. There’s no official release date but at this rate, we expect to see this product very soon on tackle store shelves and pegboards…. stay tuned.
For this next item, all we are allowed to share is the photo… no explanation of what to expect, and no explanation of when. Just look and develop your own conclusions:
what makes this product exciting? we know, but we can't tell you.
Stay tuned as we sift through more photos in an effort to bring you the unofficial word from this year’s ICAST.
We’re buys downloading images and working up the first few articles to go up tonight. In the meantime, here are my impressions from Day 1 at ICAST 2010…
Micros … Just about every rodnmanufacturer is jumping on the Micro guide bandwagon and many of them seem to be doing itnpurely out of peer pressure… When we explain to them our personal experience on the water hope is restored in their eyes.
Daiwa … My biggest personal disappointment… No zaion inspired Zillion, no PX68, and no Z2020 … Instead Daiwa USA concentrated on saltwater again this year and while their new offerings are worthwhile, I think neglecting the hungry freshwater reel market is a mistake especially with the strides made by Quantum and Pinnacle this year.
Shimano … The Scorpion 1000/1001 XT is coming to the US branded as the Curado 50/51 but even more exciting is the new Stella!!
Evergreen International… FINALLY!? Or maybe not …. They have a full blown pro staff team and they had an i impressive booth at the show, but they are still carefully calculating just how to enter the US market….
Quantum… One word, Smoke … Stay t uned for our writeup… It’ll be worth the wait… Quantum is ready for prime time!
Pinaccle … This Korean based rod and reel manufacturer is poised to make so me noise especially with their rods…
G.Loomis … We posted this on Facebook… Anyone who had given up on the G.Loomis brand had better take a second look… Price not withstanding, the NRX rods have a fantastic feel to them.
Kistler Custom Rods… Zbone is taking over the brand and Kistler will be bu ilsing several stock line of rods u under the Zbone monicker all on North Fork Composite Blanks AND with an over the counter warranty!
Skeet Reese … Skeet has made the move to Wright and McGiill for his new line of bait casting and Spinning reels but the real news may be. In his new combo for kids!
That’s all for now… Time to get back to our full articles and photos… Hang onas we’re almost ready to. Post our first article!
TackleTour is in full ICAST mode as we are set to depart in just four short days to Las Vegas where we’ll be be pounding the showroom floor and our keyboards enroute to bringing you the best coverage we possibly can. Even with North America’s biggest tackle show of the year less than a week away, product continues to appear at TT headquarters as manufacturers compete for our time and attention.
Less than a month ago, we brought you our review of Paycheck Bait’s versatile Punch Skirt and just this morning, we received a box of new product from this aggressive young company, but are any of these items as exciting as their debut product?
Repo Man: It’s no secret that PayCheck Baits has garnered the rights to most all of the former Reaction Innovations non-soft bait products. First it was the flipping hook, now it’s the topwater bait. That’s right, the Vixen is back, but it’s undergone a gender change and is now known as the Repo Man. Packed with VMC hooks and available in six different colors, the Repo Man is shipping to retailers now with an MSRP of $16.99.
Baby Blue
Dead Man Walking
Blow Up
Sweaty Betty
Bone Crusher
Drag Stripper
Punch Stop: Finally, the punch stops are ready. These stops are larger than those Bub Tosh showed us during our on the water introduction to his product last July, and they appear significant enough to where you will not need to double stop your tungsten weight. If it ever warms up enough here in Northern California, we’ll be sure to verify, but it looks like the production version of the Punch Stop can handle stopping duties solo. The Punch Stop is shipping to stores immediately and retails for $3.99 per pack of 10 individual stops.
The Punch Stops Are Ready
And will retail for 3.99 per pack
Rubber Skirts: The answer to our first question of whether or not there was anything in the box as exciting as their debut product can be answered with a “yes!”. Although technically this last item is merely an enhancement of the original Punch Skirt, the fact that the Punch Skirt is now available in living rubber is pretty exciting. There are two colors, Nasty Nate (black), and Dirty Money (brown) and right out of the package, these skirts flare much more actively than their silicone counterparts -- a prelude to the same added bulk and pulsing action jigs made out of this same material have over the same silicone skirt counterparts. The new Round Rubber Punch Skirts are also shipping to stores now and will sell for $3.99 per two pack.
Rubber Punch Skirts!
These are a lot livelier than the silicone version
And just a tad larger too
But hang on, there is “One” more bait coming… Bub promises to show us this bait at ICAST. In fact, when we announced our “Search For One” theme this year, Bub must have been paying attention because this new bait is appropriately named “The One”. Any guesses as to what it might be? Well, if you paid attention to last year’s preview, you’ll remember there was one prototype bait Zander was throwing and got mugged with. Do you remember? Well, here’s a reminder:
With ICAST fast approaching, the TT Crew is focused more on catching news than it is on catching fish. It’s a 24×7 job now making appointments, collecting information, readying our gear, and making sure we know where to go, who to see, what questions to ask, etc.. all in an effort to bring you the best coverage of ICAST 2010 that we possibly can.
Of course, with that job comes the duty of speculation. What would we like to see, and what do we think we’ll see at ICAST 2010. I’ve already shared my speculation that the Daiwa Pixy is coming to US shores as the PX68. I think the same can be said of the new Daiwa Z 2020H only I personally won’t pay much attention to that reel until Daiwa produces the left hand version. Get serious. Aside from the Megabass collaborations and the special edition reels, we’re seeing Daiwa homogenize product offerings between the US and Japanese market more and more. These two reels feel very Americanized.
But what about Shimano? In recent years, Shimano America Corp has gotten the jump on Shimano Japan with regards to product announcements and introductions made here before they appear in Japan. The handful of products that were announced early in the year over in Japan never made it to the US Market.. think, Cardiff DC, Metanium MG DC, and the new generation Conquest DC’s introduced last year.
One reel that is by no means a stretch to imagine them bringing over to the US Market is the new Scorpion 1000/1001 XT. The previous incarnation of this reel was responsible for the beginning of many an enthusiast tackle buffs’ journey to the dark side. Can the new “XT” version inspire the same madness and will it show up on US Shores as its predecessor did (the Curado 100b)? To the latter question, I’d say this is even more of a certainty than the Daiwa speculation. Afterall, this is simply an aluminum framed Core 50/51mg. What they eventually call this reel, should it make its way to the US Market is anyone’s guess.
To the former question, that all depends on the price point. The older Scorpion 1000/1001 used to sell for right around $155 before shipping – a very comfortable entry level price point. Naturally the Curado 100b was even less. Nevertheless they were not viewed as the same reel. This current generation Scorpion 1000/1001 “XT” retails for $100 more. Inflation and a poor exchange rate have really taken its toll.
What are the differences you ask? Seeing as how this reel is still a candidate for a full blown review, I’ll just leave you with some comparison photographs so you can develop your own speculation… enjoy
Since the introduction of the Maxx-Rev Hard Body Frog lure in 2007, anglers from all walks of life have looked to Revere Maxx-Fishing, LLC, for the latest in innovative designs and commitment to quality to build the best hard body frog lures on the market. With the introduction of the Maxx-Rev lure, it gave anglers a new way to fish. And the rest of the Revere Maxx-Fishing line-up fell in place.
2009 gave way to the Maxx-Pop Hard Body Frog Surface Popper with the action of a struggling frog attempting to make its way to shore. Twitch the Popper and it projects sound waves through the water like a frog’s feet striking the surface. The Rex-Rip Hard Body Weedless sinking frog can be fished at any depth of the water column for those suspending fish or can just be dragged across the bottom to simulate the action of an actual frog digging.
Now for 2010, Revere Maxx-Fishing brings an amazing line-up to the angler with six of the most innovative Hard Body Frog lures:
First, the Rock Star Frog with a buzz bait-sounding prop.
Second, the Rex-Rip FW Hard Body Floating Weedless with the same 4/0 independent hooks for maximum penetration like the sinking model.
Third, the Maxx-Pop JP, a version of the original Popper but with jointed legs to guide it though the water.
Fourth, the Maxx-Rev DT, a diving frog that while trolling can reach 24-28-feet under the water.
Fifth, the Fat-Maxx Prop with a fatter body which means BIGGER fish.
Sixth, the Fat-Maxx Tri Prop, a Hard Body Frog with a triple propeller with the most action you’ll ever see on top of the water.
These frogs are truly the most realistic frog lures on the market with a price that any angler can afford.
You’ve seen the latest Pflueger spinning reels and now here’s the latest from Abu Garcia. The Revo Premier spinning reel uses the NanoShield Technology. Look for the preview article coming very soon on TackleTour.com
The more exotic, high end reels I handle, the more de-synthesized I become and the harder it is for me to get excited over something new. Add to that the price gap we are now experiencing between the USDM and JDM counterpart reels and it’s just difficult to want to spend the dollars to import a new reel.
Imagine my surprise on the latest visit to my local tackle store, Hi’s Tackle Box where I was quickly shuttled to the back room to be shown a cache of JDM product.
The shining beacon in this collection? A left handed Ryoga 1016HL.
The Pluton is easily one of my favorite reels from Daiwa’s lineup and this new smaller size version may have won my “Search For One” this year. There’s just something about the purity of round reels that I love.
With ICAST fast approaching, one can only speculate whether Daiwa will be bringing this reel to the US. I imagine they will. But for those who cannot wait for ICAST or our eventual review, grab one now before they are too hard to get!
Meantime, I’m on the lookout for a rod on which to mount this little beast of a reel. I’m expecting good things from this mini-Ryoga. Hopefully it doesn’t disappoint.
Preview of the Patriarch and Supreme XT spinning reels will be on TackleTour.com very soon but here’s a sneak peek at these stunning magnesium reels… Available September 2010.
Check out this new company called Colt Rod. They say that they have this innovative technology but… check out the review on the same that we did way back.
The Colt Rod Company, a new fishing rod manufacturer headquartered and with full operations in the United States, will unveil its first product line—utilizing its revolutionary Hextreme® technology—at this year’s ICAST in Las Vegas. After millions of dollars invested in extensive research and development over the past 15 years, Colt is set to make its mark with the first true rod design advancement in over four decades.
“We’re here to change the game,” says Peter Lombardi, CEO of Colt Rod Company, “Our rods offer a level of performance and durability never before achievable in the world of fishing. Not only are they the most sensitive and accurate of any fishing rod in the world, but our hexagonal rod design (Hextreme® Technology) also incorporates an internal I-BEAM framework, which makes them virtually indestructible.
“With Colt, gone are the days of sacrificing performance for durability. In fact, we’re so confident about the performance and durability of our rods that they are backed by our Colt Unlimited Lifetime Warranty.”
To appreciate the Colt fishing rod difference, it’s important to understand how tubular rods are made: Traditional tubular rods are made by wrapping a sheet of carbon fiber around a metal mandrel. This process causes the carbon fibers to spiral in a barber pole effect along the length of the rod. The spiraling creates what is known as a spine. The spine in a tubular rod often times creates inaccuracies in performance and strength, and is something the industry has been trying to resolve for years.
The hexagonal design of a Colt rod features an internal I-BEAM structure that incorporates multiple types of high and low compression composite materials. The I-BEAMS are constructed with true unidirectional carbon fiber, which creates an intentionally Engineered Spine®. The result is a rod that is ultra sensitive in feel and exceedingly accurate for casting. The hexagonal I-BEAM design also makes the rods immensely powerful and more durable than any other rod on the market today.
“There’s a lot of hype in the fishing rod industry. Many companies like to boast about offering revolutionary breakthroughs in rod technology, but we’re the only ones who have really done it. It’s definitely a new day in fishing rod design,” says Lombardi.
Juggling two themes at once (2009’s Crankbait Rod Wars & 2010’s The Search For One) can get a bit confusing, but what helps to clear the fog are products that excite that enthusiast spirit in us all. Though I’m still fishing some domestic flavored product for the sake of TackleTour, I’ve more or less rededicated myself to what brought me here and that’s the tackle products from other markets. In any other industry, these are referred to simply as grey market items but here on TackleTour, it’s all about enthusiasm and that special niche of tackle that inspires an inexplicable excitement – or – enthusiasm.
Earlier this year, we previewed some items from just across our northern border.. Rapala Canada’s new line of bass rods. I’ve since had a chance to fish some of these sticks and initial impressions are all very good. Of particular note are the R-Type sticks… In our January preview, we were only able to share their musky sticks from this lineup, but I’ve since acquired a couple of their split grip bass rods including a two-piece travel stick and boy, for right around $100 Canadian, these are some fun sticks to fish! And don’t forget, even the top end Shift rods are only $179 Canadian.
These might not have quite the same aura and back story as the sticks from Japan, but when our reviews on these two sticks are done, I predict there will be a fair number of tackle junkies ready to drive across the border to import these value driven, enthusiasm inspiring sticks. Oh Canada!!
Naturally we have a review already in the works on the new Velvick 3D by Rago Baits, but with the buzz surrounding Velvick’s Golden State Shootout Win on Clear Lake yesterday, I thought I’d put up some sneak peak looks at this bait designed especially for Clear Lake by both Jerry Rago and Byron Velvick. They’ve been at this for several years and finally all their hard work paid off. This bait features a line through design with an exposed treble, but when rigged correctly is virtually weedless. Here’s a closer look at the bait together with a closer look of the very bait Velvick was throwing during the tournament.
Looks like the swimbait revolution just received some serious reinforcements as it does every year when a big organization like BASSMASTERS comes out west. Who said swimbaits have to be a trout? Match the hatch with large baitfish in your area and you could very well experience some of the same success as Byron Velvick.
Better yet, want to get your hands on some? Try here:
At about 4:15pm Pacific Daylight Time, a little over six hours ago, what most people anywhere near Clear Lake already knew became official: Byron Velvick had won the 2010 Golden State Shootout on Clear Lake. The California Native brought the trophy home in exciting wire-to-wire fashion. Of course, what our readers care about most may not necessarily be the fact that Velvick took home the prize, but rather, what new and yet to be released tackle was he using?
Already reported last night on TackleTour.com was the bait Velvick was using to build on his lead, the brand new Rago BV (Byron Velvick) 3D hitch bait designed specifically for Clear Lake by Velvick and Jerry Rago. In fact, we previewed this bait back in October of 2009: http://www.tackletour.com/previewragobassjam.html
Today, we caught up with Velvick after he signed his last autograph and the crowds had cleared for an up close look at his new rods, the Duckett Fishing Micro Magic sticks. Here now is an exclusive first peak at what’s brewing over at Duckett Fishing!
Introducing Duckett Fishing's Micro Magic Sticks
Each stick will feature an exposed blank reel seat, no foregrip, and split rear grip
Speculation was for a split reel seat similar to Duckett's former rod sponsor, e21, but instead, Duckett's new sticks will feature a standard, exposed blank seat
Cork is the material of choice for the split rear grip
Custom accent rings adorn the rod as well
But of course the big news comes in a very small package ...
Micro Guides
Congratulations Byron Velvick on an incredible job swinging for the fences and delivering!
The talk of the weigh-in by all the pros was the swimbait bite, but what will interest our readers the most is what we just showed you, Velvick’s new magic wand built by Boyd Duckett and Ken Whiting, founders of Duckett Fishing. He may not have been using these sticks exclusively, afterall, the new Micro Magic swimbait sticks are still in prototype stages, but Velvick tells us the rods are very close to completion.
Prior to 2006 Abu Garcia had no say in the low profile reel market and I have to say, what they were offering before really sucked, and I bet the Abu reel team agrees. Then all of the sudden out of no where they introduced the Revo reels at the 2006 ICAST. It was Abu’s REVOlution, making a huge dent in the freshwater low profile reel market and even had the guys at Shimano running scared.
So when is Abu Garcia’s Next REVOlution and where are they headed?
Here are my thoughts on where they are going…
1) Abu Garcia rods – They started out with the low cost yet attractive and decent performing Vengeance and Vendetta rods. And recently the Veritas white bass rod that we previewed and also seen on our TackleTour Forum. Just last ICAST we also gave a sneak peek at the new lightweight rod but haven’t seen much of it lately except that it’s in the works. It will be called Verdict and will be super-lightweight and well-balanced. It’s time they introduce higher end rods in the Abu Garcia brand, though Jim at Abu did tell us at ICAST they want to introduce high-performing, JDM looking rods at affordable prices, and of course widely available and easy to buy, with a warranty.
2) The REVO lowprofile baitcast reels, they already have a great product here and only minor changes can be made if any. Nothing will probably happen here for this year’s ICAST unless they are making new reels out of new materials to make it super-lightweight. If it ain’t broken don’t change it.
3) So what’s left for the Next REVOlution? I have a feeling that it’ll be in the freshwater spinning reels and perhaps a high-end line of spinning reels under the REVO name. I was about to review the Pflueger Supreme XT spinning reel which I tested for trout fishing and it performed well but was then told it will be replaced by a newer and better model that will be introduced at ICAST 2010. Someone at Abu also leaked some word of a feather-lightweight spinning reel similar to what we’ve seen in the Revo Premier baitcaster. This would match with the high-end lightweight rod, Verdict, that’s currently in development. Aside from that they can probably introduce a whole new line of REVO spinning reels here.
That’s where I’m seeing Abu Garcia headed for next year with prototypes being introduced this year at ICAST.
What would you like to see in the NEXT REVOlution?!?
Earlier this week when I finished the review of the Strike Pro Flex Crawfish this bait started up the common question “is that bait designed to catch fish or fishermen?” The product seemed to ooze the latter and yet I was proven wrong, and after putting in the proper amount of time into the product was able to catch fish using a variety of techniques on local bodies of water with resident crawfish. Will I fish it over a traditional jig? No, but I also can’t deny that in the hands of an angler willing to put in the time into the product it does work.
There are the select few products that may have completely repulsed mainstream anglers only to become popular after the “secret” got out, but for the most part products need enough initial adoption (or the backing of a big time pro) to become popular enough to become hot sellers. Take swimbaits for example. In the early days the pioneers carved these big ungainly lures out of wood and while most anglers rejected them early on they successfully spawned one of the biggest (and most often copied) segments of the bait industry. Nowadays there are countless companies out there saying they have a unique swimbait that hasn’t been seen before. Sure they do.
In an industry now dominated by giants it is getting harder for anglers to sift through all the marketing and get to the real heart of the question…. Will this product really help me catch fish? Is it a big turnoff for a product to be perceived as one that is designed to catch fishermen? Yes. Do anglers buy into fancy new products that spout off wild claims that promise pro-like performance in bag or box? Yes, even the best anglers do. It is really hard not to be skeptical when considering what features or claims are thrown into a product to garner attention from consumers but I think the good product is somewhere in the middle. It definitely must help anglers catch fish but it also should sport features that make it a product that anglers will enjoy fishing. The successful product is one that does a lot of fish catching and a little fishermen catching too, not only will it help you land more fish but it also makes realistic claims and delivers upon them. In this way more anglers will be motivated to try a product and discover just how good it really is, as the real test for any piece of tackle is how well it holds up to claims in the hands of the entire angling community not what is printed on the box or painted onto a lure.
So the next time you think “does it catch fish or fishermen?” The answer might just be “both.”
It’s good that I had my latest Pixzilla project or I would have been another victim of the winter doldrums. You got it, a long-cold spell …the water froze early last year but the ice hasn’t been suitable for any serious fishing. I’ve read all the books that I can stand, and surfing the net doesn’t help either.
At times, it almost seems like I spend more time shoveling snow than in my workshop, regardless of what my wife says about it. I’ve already got most of my rods, reels and other tackle ready for the new season; but it’s still too cold to get serious about the boats. I’m chomping at the bit to hit the water with my latest addition to the arsenal.
So, lets spend some time looking at my new custom +R tuned Pixy. Along the way we’ll cover some things like getting a reel painted, doing a smoothdrag.com drag kit upgrade, +R tuning a Pixy spool, and a few other goodies. Of course, there will be plenty of pictures, tips and lots of detail for those considering similar upgrades. An Aside: Little did I know when I started planning in November that the Pixy project would end up being my answer to the new Daiwa PX68. It’s expected to hit the shelves in a few more weeks!
Oh By The Way: Yes, that’s snow and ice in the background of some pictures, it was just starting to flurry when I took them. You didn’t think I’d let you get away without sharing some of it?
Background
Come-on, get real;how can you make a Pixzilla any better?!? It already approaches perfection for lighter presentations, and excels at pitching and casting a wide-range of lure weights. It’s no wonder that I have many of them now; they are fun to use, don’t hardly weigh anything, and the profile is easy for my crippled old hands to palm. If you’re a modder, there’s plenty to tinker with too! A Note: A stock Pixy is no slouch, many users outside of TackleTour have never heard of a Pixzilla! Just try buying a NIB LH Pixy – they don’t come up that often. However, if you are patient you can snag a used one! That’s exactly what I did, so read on…
I love pitching, roll casting and side-arming a Zoom Lil-Crit for smallmouth and can never seem to get enough of it! Most of the time I use them weightless on a light #1 bass hook rigged weed less. But sometimes I’ll put a 1/64 to 1/16 oz bullet sinker above the hook when in a little deeper water, pitching to specific weed openings in the wind, or as the smallmouth just begin to move in for the coming spawn. In early winter, I’ll even use them on sharper drop-offs near deep water; for some reason a smallmouth can’t resist that super-slow natural fall! Unfortunately, if you’ve ever pitched or cast a Zoom Lil-Crit this way you already know what I’m talking about – everything together doesn’t weigh more than 1/8 oz., and has about the same aerodynamic characteristics as a cotton ball!A Note: Although the Pixzilla does a fair job with the right rod, line and reel adjustment; I still wanted a little more. Remember my previous blog about always wanting to crank everything I can out of a reel? Well, here’s another example! Enough said for now.
~3” green pumpkin Zoom Lil-Crit TR with 1/32 oz bullet weight.
I’ve grown addicted to swept 4-bearing handles; they seem to be so much easier on my wrist, although I really don’t have a preference in carbon vs. aluminum. I also like the feel of Reel Grips and have them on all of my reels, especially since the profile seems to work better with my fingers. (O.K. you guys can laugh, I even use them on handles that have cork knobs!) Then you have the level wind upgrade; swapping the bushing for a new bearing and a small spacer sleeve, for better level wind performance and line lay. Of course, how could you ever have a Pixzilla without a Carbontex drag upgrade? And what about upgraded spool bearings and polishing a few key components in the reel; you already know where I stand on them if you’ve followed my blogs. Last but not least, I like a stealthy look. An Aside: Maybe I’m getting a little finicky in my old age, but I occasionally get wild with a bit of bling at times. O.K. I admit it, red shad has always been one of my favorite color schemes; and if there is black/green/white sparkles’ mixed in with the black it really catches my attention. Hey, red shad is kinda-sorta stealthy, isn’t it?A Note: I decided not to do the standard TD-Z level wind line guide mod as I was reassembling the reel. I’ve never really noticed much difference with or without it – so I stayed with the standard Pixy guide. (I admit that I typically use lighter and more-supple types of line, and suspect that is probably why the longer line opening hasn’t been much of a factor.) So, I’ve slowly started to migrate back to a stock guide in my Pixies anyway.
So there you have it, my specifications for the make-over. A Blog Note: I don’t intend to cover much of the “hands-on” side of the reel make-over, except for the drag upgrade. Instead, I’ll focus on things from a higher level – besides I’ve got other blogs that get into much of the actual detail. There’s even more information in the Maintenance Section of the TackleTour forum.
Custom Paint Preps
Although the Pixy I purchased had a little boat rash on each side plate and the frame, it was lightly used and in excellent mechanical condition. So, how could I have a new “Super Pixzilla”, without a custom paint job? Fortunately, if you’ve been around TackleTour, it doesn’t take long before you hear and see the reels that Calfish has painted! I drool all over my keyboard every time I see them.
Red shad color in winter sunlight!
Let me start by saying that Calfish did an excellent job on painting the reel, it exceeded my expectations:
All different parts of the reel are the same shade, depth and glossy finish. Nothing that was painted appears abnormal or out of place and everything looks better than any stock reel I’ve seen. It was obvious that plenty of time, attention to detail, etc. was put in to the painting.
The finish cured extremely hard and really shines! Smudges and fingerprints, wipe off easily with a very light spray of Eagle One Nanowax and a micro-fiber rag. There were no chips or scratches after I reassembled the reel.
You could tell that he put a lot of effort into controlling overspray, taping and ensuring that excess paint did not affect how the spool fits in the frame and mounting of other components.
There were no runs or missed spots, or hint of blemishes from the original boat rash.
Periodic communications throughout the process kept me up to date on the status.
An Aside: The pictures of the reel just don’t do his work justice, the dark red plates and contrasting black frame are hard to capture with a camera, and especially during a cold and snowy winter day. They become very vibrant in direct light and you can see tiny sparkles and depth within the paint. However, the colors gradually change to a deeper and darker shade in reduced light – almost becoming dark maroon and stunning black in the process. Both the red shad and stealth look I was hoping for!
Indirect light gives a stealthy-red look!
You’ll need to disassemble the entire reel before you send the parts to Calfish. Everything! So in the case of a Pixy, don’t forget to: remove the clutch lever plates from the frame; the A/R bearing, tension o-ring and white spring plate from the handle plate; and the adjustment knob when you remove the other magnetic braking components from the palm plate. I only point this out because these components seldom get removed in normal situations. (You’ll also want to store them in a safe location after you remove them, along with the rest of the reel parts!)
A Tip: If you’ve never removed an A/R bearing from a Daiwa handle plate, stand-by! Sometimes they will just slide out of the socket in the plate with little effort, and it isn’t a big deal. However, most of the time they are pressed-in and getting them out is more challenging. Occasionally they are pressed-in along with epoxy – and things can be a major challenge. Search the Maintenance Section of the TackleTour forum if you encounter the last two cases and need help!
A Big Note: If you don’t have the skills, tools or desire to completely disassemble and reassemble the reel, you can have it done by a reel tech. Review the posts on TackleTour to find techs that have worked closely with Calfish in delivering a completed reel. (You’ll find them mentioned in the Show and Tell or the Maintenance Section of the forum.) It’s a great way to get to the same point, and there’s nothing wrong with this approach (although it costs a bit more). Another Note: When you send the parts you’ll also need to include the spool and the spool bearing that is pinned to it. Calfish will ensure that the sides of the spool are not affected by any paint on the frame!
You’ll probably want to clean and inspect the parts before you send them for painting. I used a small tooth brush and a 20:1 dilute solution of Simple Green to scrub the parts, warm tap water for periodic soaks, and finished by rinsing them off with distilled water. Once the front plate, both side plates and frame were dry I wrapped them in bubble wrap before boxing them up.
Stealth and red shad in mixed light!
I knew Calfish was going to be busy painting reels for other forum members this time of year; something I’ve followed on TackleTour for a couple seasons now. I was a little surprised that the parts came back about 6 weeks after sending them to him. There was still plenty of time to get a new handle, prepare other parts, etc., and even modify/test a Pixy spool with +R tuned braking components. There was always something to tinker with, and getting things ready was a good distraction during the blizzards that left us snowbound in part of January!
Custom Paint Reassembly
Swept IZE 4-bearing 80mm handle.
I had planned on dealing with the effects of paint long before I ever sent the parts to Calfish for painting. Let’s face it, the spray and thickness of paint can be enough to affect the fit, mating, precision and even performance of reel components. [Also one of the reasons you need to be careful when painting a reel!] For example, the thickness of a coating can affect how one part matches and mounts with another. A run or little bit of paint in the wrong location can affect alignment or precision. In the case of threaded holes, overspray can affect how fasteners travel and torque components together. Bearing sockets present a unique situation; in extreme cases paint might prevent the bearing from even being mounted, or could adversely affect the bearings radial clearance if it can.
On the other hand, how can you really ensure adequate coverage and that chipping/ cracking won’t occur around an opening, unless you actually overspray a small part of it? An interesting dilemma and an age old problem involving two extremes, and one that coating and manufacturing engineers address all the time! So, I planned on dealing with the affects of paint ahead of time, simply because it should be expected.A Tip: I discussed removing excess paint with Calfish and he suggested that Acetone or other similar solvents not be used to remove any paint or paint residue near/in screw holes, etc.
A small bit of paint needed to be removed from the inside wall of
the bearing socket. The paint runs between the arrow tips.
When I got the parts back I checked them for paint that had to be removed before reassembling the reel. Calfish did a great job of taping and controlling excess overspray, so there wasn’t much I had to do in that regard. Thanks Calfish for making my project so much easier:
The previous picture shows a small amount of extra paint between the arrow tips, on the inside wall of the drive shaft outer bearing socket. It obviously affected installing the bearing and was relatively thick. So, I lightly scraped it off the wall with a dull knife tip, blew the chips out with a little compressed air and wiped the socket out with a q-tip dampened in a little water. A Note: The rest of the paint on the front of the bearing socket should not be removed; it has no affect on alignment, the bearing or other components, and is not visible when the reel is reassembled.
The bottom red arrow in the picture below shows the hole where the level wind guard mounts in the palm plate side of frame. The paint was just a little too thick on the inside edge to allow the guard to pass through the hole. So I wrapped a small strip of 600 Wet and Dry sand paper around a ¼” dowel and lightly removed a small amount of paint on the inside edge – just enough to allow the guard to pass through. I don’t think it took more than a half-dozen light strokes with the paper to get what I needed.
The remaining arrows in the picture below show threaded holes in the frame for the handle plate, level wind stabilizing bar, etc. When I checked them with the screw that goes in each hole, I found two that needed to be cleared. I used a very small pick to carefully remove paint in the threads, then blew the holes with compressed air and rinsed them out with fresh water. I also found that the threaded hole for the palm plate locking screw had a little paint in the threads that also needed to be removed. So, I used the same method to clean up that hole. I finished by running a spare palm plate locking screw coated with a very thin film of oil in-and-out several times, to ensure travel was smooth and not impeded (see the previous picture).
Frame openings where paint might affect reassembly. Most are
threaded holes for plates and the level wind stabilizer bar.
I really didn’t have any surprises while reassembling the reel and everything went together the way I expected. I did put a very-light film of grease on the threads of screws that tighten in the frame; something that I typically do anyway during an annual clean/inspect to preclude fretting. You might want to consider doing the same after having a frame painted, but there’s no need to get carried away with the grease when you do it.
Level Wind Upgrade
Stock bushing shown on Pixy level wind worm (bottom),
has been replaced with a small collar and bearing (top).
The Daiwa level wind upgrade has been around for several years now and I automatically do it on a new reel when required. I recently touched on it, about half-way through my Level Wind Fundamentals blog.
Some Daiwa low profile reels have a bushing under the level wind gear as shown in the bottom of the previous picture, and it’s possible to replace the bushing with a 4×8x2.5 mm bearing and a 5×6x2 mm collar (top of the picture). You’ll need ball bearing (part 39) F05-5601 from the TD-Z103H/105H and worm shaft collar (part 40) G01-0701 from the TD-Z 103, to complete the modification and improve level wind performance.
However, in the case of my Pixy project, I recognized that the new collar dimensions could be affected by the painting. Simply put, the added thickness of the new paint on the frame would likely require that I customize the collar under the level wind gear. So I decided to modify the original stock Pixy bushing to make it work, and would adjust its thickness for precise fit. A Note: Little did I know at the time, that Daiwa US didn’t have any collars in stock, so that was probably a good choice anyway! An Aside: Unfortunately a lot of forum members are still looking for collars and have level wind upgrades on hold. Oh By The Way: I’ve never had a problem getting a replacement bushing collar from Daiwa, like the one found in a stock Sol, Fuego, Viento, Pixy, etc. For instance, worm shaft holder (part 40) G41-7801 from a Sol never seems to be out of stock when I’ve ordered them. So, the information in the next couple of paragraphs may be an option…
Making Your Own Collar
Most of the 4x8mm end of the stock Pixy bushing collar needs to be removed to make the new collar. The good news is that the material is not that hard or brittle, and is very easy to work.
I’ve cut them almost all the way down (~2.5mm), with a razor-sharp contractor’s knife and even a Dremel wheel in the past, and filed them the rest of the way to square them up and get the correct thickness. DR on the forum has even used a belt sander to sand them down, and he’s made a jig to hold them while doing it. I even recall one forum member who filed the whole thing down to make a new collar! So, there are several ways to do it.
You can square and finish them up to the correct thickness with a piece of 600# Wet and Dry sandpaper, fine file, or even an Emory board borrowed for your significant other. A replacement collar from Daiwa is 2mm thick, but you can even leave it .1 or .2 mm longer for a custom fit – to remove the last bit of axial play from the worm gear as the pinion switches tapers.
A Test: In the case of my Pixy Project, the exact thickness of the collar ended up being 1.89mm, a little smaller than the standard 2mm because of the paint. It only required 42 passes on a sheet of 400 and 6 passes on a sheet of 600 Wet and Dry to make make the new collar — and took all of 3-1/2 minutes to do it (including the 2 checks with the level wind worm and bearing in the frame)! So stop waiting for Daiwa to get them back in stock and make your own — chances are you’ll spend 10x that long on the phone ordering one.
Tuning a New IZE Handle
One of the first things I did was to fine-tune the new IZE 80mm carbon handle that I got from Plat. The knobs I used were from a brand new TD-Advantage-153HSTA. Unfortunately, I didn’t like the fit when you mounted them with the usual washer(s) beneath the bottom bearing on each post. One washer was not thick enough, and the ~.13mm axial slop in the knob resulted in a noticeable click when you cranked a reel. Yet 2 washers were too thick, and the knob would bind depending on how far you tightened the knob screw. So I sanded one of the washers under each knob to achieve just the right fit, using 600 then and 1200 Wet and Dry paper. I lubricated all knob bearings with Xtreme Reel+, a dry lubricant that I’m testing again this season.
A Big Tip: If you are faced with the same situation, resist the urge to reduce the length of the handle post in an attempt to get a better fit with your knobs. Not only will you kill the resale value of the handle, it can create other problems down the road. For instance, you probably won’t be able to use it with any other type of knobs, and the debris that gets inside the post is almost impossible to remove and might cause a knob screw to seize!
Polishing and Tuning
I also did a little polishing and tuning on a few key parts. Something I’ve done on all of my low profile Daiwas now. I’ll even do it on a new reel, once I’ve checked it out. It feels so good afterward!
You can use my Polishing the Sol article to improve the way the reel disengages/reengages, provide a little better spool tension adjustment, and even reduce some spool noise that might otherwise occur while casting or retrieving.
A Tip: There’s no need to get carried away with the polishing!
Pixy Drag Kit Mod
Background
The stock Pixy has a drag stack that consists of a heavy top key washer, thick composite friction washer and an eared stainless steel washer that fits in the bottom of the drive gear. When new, the stock drag delivers about 3 to 4# of break-away pull, but running pull can be up to 1# less (especially after use). In addition, should the stack get contaminated with oil, grease or water; the running pull can become erratic and the stack may even stutter, and/or break-away pull can become non-repeatable from pull-to-pull. You’ll find more information about break-away and running drag in my previous Reel Drag Basics blog.
About 4 years ago, some TackleTour forum members began testing various Pixy drag upgrades using multiple Carbontex and metal drag washers. If you are curious, you can find posts about them in the Maintenance Section of the old TackleTour forum; just go there and use “Pixy drag” for search terms. However, you can find a summary of the designs in the Sticky Post at the top of the forum. Most of the drag mods were somewhat complicated; requiring parts from other reels, specific reel measurements and even cutting a new drive shaft collar. However, they worked very well and eliminated the previously described problems.
Smoothdrag.com began supplying a drag kit that includes polished stainless steel and Carbontex washers that drop right into the Pixy. Everything you need to do a drag upgrade is included in the kit, except maybe a little Cal’s Grease (I’ll get to it in a few paragraphs). A Pixy drag upgrade became so much simpler and easier after that!
Details
I get a lot of PM’s and email from Pixy owners who are interested in a Pixy drag upgrade or have questions about the smoothdrag.com kit. It’s also a common topic in the Maintenance Section of the forum. So, I thought I’d provide a little more detail about it, since I used the kit for my custom Pixzilla – and suggest you do the same. Thanks Dawn!
A Note and Tip: Many reel techs will also install the kit when they work on your reel, it has become that popular! Most can do it during an annual clean and inspect -- Hint, hint!
When you use the kit you will still need to use the stock eared washer that fits in the bottom of the drive gear. However, you won’t use the stock top key washer and Teflon composite washer shown above.
Smoothdrag.com Pixy Drag Kit showing the new configuration.
When you get the kit you’ll notice that there are different polished metal washers and Carbontex washers, they will need to be installed in a specific order to complete the modification. The previous picture shows the correct arrangement, starting from the drive gear and working upward:
The stock ear washer that was in the Pixy, gets re-used,
One of the new larger i.d. Carbontex washers goes above it,
One of the new metal key washers goes above that,
The other new larger i.d. Carbontex washers goes above that,
The new eared metal key washer goes about that,
The new smaller i.d. Carbontex washer goes above that, and
The other new key washer goes on top of the stack, directly under the drive shaft collar.
You’ll want to clean the new metal and Carbontex washers before you install them, to remove any residue, lubricant, etc. I suggest using a little Lighter Fluid (Naphtha), in a sealed glass jar to do the cleaning. Just drop them in ~1/4” of the fluid and put the lid on the jar. Periodically swirl them and let them soak for a total of 10 minutes or so, to loosen and lift carbon residue from the woven fiber washers.
A Safety Note: Be sure to exercise appropriate precautions for handling and using a solvent (adequate ventilation, fire hazard, no sparks or open flame in the area, etc.). You’ll find more on safety precautions in my Tool Time blog.
A Tip: You can clean the washers the same during the annual clean/inspect at the end of the season. However, it might take a little longer, especially if you’ve used drag grease on the washers.
Remove the washers and allow them to dry after cleaning. I like to lay them out on a clean lint-free terry cloth towel to dry in the air. A Tip: The solvent on the Carbontex washers may appear to evaporate sooner than on the metal washers. Unfortunately, the weave inside the washer can still hold a lot of solvent in it. So don’t get in too big a hurry applying drag grease on them; if you intend to use drag grease on your Carbontex washers. [You’ll work drag grease into the fiber, and any solvent still within the fiber can immediately break it down. YIKES!]
Drag Grease
“To use drag grease or not to use drag grease?” a question I get a lot on the forum. I prefer to use it because break-away drag seems to be closer to running drag and pull tends to be more consistent from pull to pull. In addition, the drag doesn’t seem to be nearly affected by “a good dunking” (yes accidents do occasionally happen), or a major “gully washer.” If you are a salt water anger or fish in brackish water the grease might help mitigate fouling of the stack.
On the other hand, top-end drag may be slightly less with drag grease (maybe ¼# or so, depending on the reel), and there is a little initial cost to get the grease.
So, some prefer the advantages of drag grease (called a wet drag), and others prefer to run them dry (called a dry drag). In the end, the choice is entirely yours.
Drag grease is different than the other grease used in a reel, although it still contains filler and lubricants:
The filler holds and disperses the lubricant like in conventional reel grease. However, drag grease filler doesn’t break down until very high temperature, when compared to other grease fillers. In addition, the filler tends to insulate and protect lubricant molecules more than other fillers, from the heat developed by friction.
The most important part of the lubricant consists of macro-molecules [or micro-particles] of a PTFE (Teflon). The macro-molecules are extremely long, chemically neutral and very strong – they will not breakdown or be penetrated like film lubricant molecules. In addition, the molecules form layers which move against each other, so shear becomes more directly related to the compression force on them (a very desirable characteristic for a drag brake).
The rest of the lubricant typically contains a synthetic oil for carrying the PTFE molecules. It also often includes anti-oxidants, protectants and anti-coagulants; which improve the stability of the filler, and helps disperse and replenish PTFE molecules as they expend.
A Note: Strange things can happen if drag grease gets mixed with conventional reel grease and exposed to the conditions under the handle plate. Simply put, the results are unpredictable; it can glob like the curds in cottage cheese, can turn the surface of metals black, and even affect the ability of the conventional grease to adhere on gear teeth. If fresh water or saltwater gets thrown in with the mix, it can even turn dry and crusty when things finally dry out, or may retain moisture so algae will grow on/in the mix. Lastly, it may just do nothing but turn a little different color. Yep, that sounds like unpredictable….
Drag Grease Summary: So, the way the Teflon lubricant molecules shear in layers, how they behave under compression and the characteristics of the filler are what really distinguish drag grease from conventional reel grease. A Tip: I don’t necessarily recommend trying to use conventional reel grease in lieu of drag grease in a drag stack. It usually doesn’t last nearly as long and the drag stack can get sticky and inconsistent during use. Just my take after trying it a couple times; they were an emergency, honest!
A Side Note: The processes involved with PTFE types of solid lubricants and woven carbon fiber are very complicated, and I’ve taken the liberty of being brief.
Cal’s Grease, Shimano drag grease (ACE grease) and a few others can be used on your Carbontex washers (or other wet drag washers). I prefer Cal’s because it’s a little cheaper and easier to obtain, but have found that they all generally perform about the same. The color and consistency of Cal’s reminds me of smooth peanut butter; you can get it from smoothdrag.com and it comes in a 1 oz. or 1# container. [A 1 oz container will last most anglers a lifetime!]
Once the washers are dry after cleaning, I just work a small dab of Cal’s Grease into the surface with a finger and thumb. I like to ensure the grease actually gets inside the weave on both sides of the fiber because performance seems to last longer – but there is no need to get carried away with the grease. More is not necessarily better …read on!
Excess grease will get compressed out of the stack and can splatter under the handle plate, find its way to the teeth on the drive gear and mix with other grease (BAD!), etc. So, I typically squeeze the washer between my finger and thumb and rotate it to remove excess grease.
A Tip: A good rule of thumb for a bass reel is to only leave enough grease on the washers; so that if you touch them, you leave a finger print on them. (See the previous picture.) A Note: If you do decide to go with a lot more drag grease, make sure you know there won’t be undesired results should it find its way to the other grease in the reel. Some anglers might actually do this, to mitigate the effects of saltwater intrusion on the stack.
+R Tuned Pixy Spool
Background
I briefly mentioned the possibility of a +R tuned Pixy spool, toward the end of my Inside The Daiwa Spool blog back in November. That’s about the time that I started planning my Pixy project, so it was a teaser for what was to come. However, I seriously thought about not even posting anything about it in this blog, figuring there just wasn’t a lot of interest. However, I admit you need to be a hard-core spool modder to want to go this route, and maybe it’s a bit much for most or involves more risk than they want to assume.
I’ve been running a couple TD-X’s and S’s without any braking components on the spool for a few years now, primarily using my thumb to control overrun. I still have them; just don’t use them as much anymore, because I don’t cast/pitch/flip the heavier stuff that often.
I also learned long ago, that trying to do the same with very light presentations like a Zoom Lil-Crit, just won’t work – even with the lightest of spools like the Pixy and my Presso rod. There just isn’t enough momentum from the lure and spool to handle much feathering on the spool, and when you do, things get extremely critical. [A Confession: O.K. I admit it, my thumb just isn’t nimble enough to pitch a 1/8 oz piece of popcorn tied onto the end of my line, while only using my thumb to control overrun! Whew, I feel a lot better now that that’s out in the open.] When you try, distance and accuracy are all over the spectrum, overrun is just too hard to control, and any wind turns a bad situation into “worser-than-worse.”
So it didn’t take me long to realize that I had reached the point where man and his “well trained thumb” could no longer perform as well or as quickly as machine…. I would need a little bit of variable magnetic braking for my latest Pixy project!
You can go back and review my earlier blogs for more insight:
It’s possible to swap the +R tuned Magforce V braking components from another spool, over to the Pixy spool for improved pitching performance. In fact, there are other changes you can make to +R components to fine-tune the spool braking response even more – if that’s what you want to do. (Maybe I’ll get into them someday.) I decided to use most of the braking components from a TD-Z +R spool. An Aside: Yes, you’ve seen this spool before in a couple of my previous blogs!
I already covered how to remove and reinstall Daiwa Magforce V and Z braking components in my Inside the Daiwa Spool blog. You can use the process, tools and tips from the blog; just be careful and pay attention to what you are doing, since you can damage a spool in the process!
To make a long story short, you’ll want to use the +R inductor and tabs, but the stock Pixy braking spring. A Note: It’s hard to make out in the previous picture; but the Pixy spring is a little longer, yet it doesn’t take quite as much compression force to compress it and the compression rate is not the same as the +R spring. So, you’ll just have to take my word for it; you’ll get a little bit better +R performance for the lighter presentations, with the longer spring. An Aside: Again, maybe I’ll blog about this sometime later.
+R modified Pixy spool (left) and stock Pixy spool (right). Notice
the difference in inductors, and how the stock inductor fits into the magnets a bit further, when compared to the +R.
It’s easy to see the difference between the +R inductor and the stock Pixy inductor in the previous picture. But also note how much further the stock inductor sticks into the braking magnets at spool start-up. (Use the collar on the left spool shaft to see the ~.8mm difference on the right.) Less braking would occur at spool start-up with the +R spool for both reasons. Remember that braking torque increases when more of the inductor is exposed to magnetic lines of force and the closer the inductor is to the magnets? See my Exploring Magnetic Brakes blog for more information.
Trivia: The braking tabs also have a little different mass and length; so the effect from different momentum and distance they travel, will also affect the rate at which braking is applied as the spool accelerates and decelerates. Sound complicated? Trust me it is….
I actually went through a couple different iterations to get the exact braking response I was looking for with my Lil-Crits. I tested braking response after each change by making numerous pitches and casts, and even did a some bench testing. You may have seen this already, since I posted it on the forum; Prototyping Tuned Pixy Spool. But here’s a video of a Magforce V braking system in action, the red light on the bottom of the spool is from a laser tachometer. It’s one of the tools I use to collect data when prototyping a spool. Notice how the braking inductor responds with varying spool speed – similar to what would occur during a cast.
By the Way: In case you were going to ask; no, you can not put a Magforce Z braking system into a Pixy spool. You need to stay with Magforce V because the tabs run on the side of the tapered spool and there isn’t enough room.
Wrap-Up
I wrapped things up by dropping a set of higher precision spool bearings into the reel. I’ll have more about them later… and that’s all I’m saying for now! But as far as casting and pitching crits, I’ll just say SWEET!!!
So there you have it… my winter +R Tuned Pixy Project. Hopefully you’ll find the information useful, much of it will apply to other reel models!
It was a good project for fighting off cabin fever, but now that it’s done I’m itching to get it on the water!
Like Always: I’m not associated with anyone or any products mentioned in this blog.
A little over a year ago I wrote an article about the trend to move towards lighter baitcasters without sacrificing performance. The push for lower weight continues and since then Shimano has released the Core 50Mg which weighs an ultra light 5.5oz., which is equal to the lightest Daiwa Steez reels. Have reel manufacturers gone far enough to reduce the weight of their reels, yes. Have they done enough to make lightweight reels affordable, not by a long shot. Currently magnesium reels are among the most expensive baitcasters on the market and out of reach of the mainstream angling community. Magnesium is an expensive material to work with and the tooling to build these reels isn’t cheap either. So does that mean ultra-light weight has to equate to ultra high cost? It shouldn’t.
The Shimano Core 50mg makes use of magnesium to achieve a ultralight 5.5oz. weigh in
Some reel manufacturers are now looking at alternatives to improve the balance between weight reduction and frame integrity while finding ways to reduce cost. Traditional graphite might be a dirty word when it comes to reels but the pairing of aluminum and graphite together sometimes adds up to a better overall package. Examples of the use of graphite successfully include the Shimano Curado and Okuma Trio spinning reel, both of which combine the best features and attributes of aluminum construction and lightweight graphite materials to make lighter yet more affordable reels.
The Stradic CI4 is constructed out of reinforced carbon fiber which is nearly 2 times stronger than traditional graphite
Carbon fiber is becoming a popular choice as it can be wound and molded to deliver an extremely high strength to weight ratio material. The density of carbon fiber is lower than many alloys making it ideal for light weight applications. Other benefits of using these materials include corrosion resistance. Both Shimano and Daiwa are now using carbon composite materials in their higher end spinning reels, Shimano makes use of reinforced carbon fiber in their recent Stradic redesign and the latest Daiwa Fuego spinning reel makes use of the company’s “Zaion” construction which is described as a super-carbon material. Both spinning reels are lighter, perform up to par with aluminum models and are more corrosion resistant. Will savvy reel manufacturers make use of similar materials and techniques in higher end baitcasters? They should.
The fact that Kevin VanDam won the 2010 Bassmaster Classic last weekend likely didn’t surprise many who follow the sport of bass fishing; he has been the best in the sport and the angler to beat in recent years. It is somewhat ironic though that this same fisherman who is best known for his power-fishing style did have to borrow from technology that dates back to the earliest of Classics – variable speed – to slow down for the cold water conditions found on Alabama’s Lay Lake.
VanDam was one of 34 anglers out of the 51 fishing in the Classic who relied on a foot-controlled variable speed MotorGuide® trolling motor that has a history closely paralleling that of the Classic itself. By 1972, year two for the Classic, MotorGuide inventor G.H. Harris had added variable speed control to the design of his bow-mounted foot-controlled trolling motor introduced 20 years earlier.
Variable speed provided anglers with an infinite range of speed settings from low to high, giving them the exact precision for boat control for any given condition. It was a monumental breakthrough in trolling motor technology and angler versatility. Previously, trolling motors typically had from three to five speed settings, and the selections rarely matched the conditions at hand so anglers often found themselves having to constantly switch from one speed to another.
“I did have to consciously make myself slow down in everything I was doing for this Classic,” VanDam said. “I’m accustomed to putting my MotorGuide on high and covering lots of water in a hurry with lots of casts and fast moving baits. But here it was all about dialing the speed down on my 36-volt motor, going to a 5.3:1 gear ratio baitcast reel, making long casts and working my crankbait really slow across the top of the coontail grass in the area.”
“The water was pretty shallow, so I think it was also important that I was able to move my boat around as quietly with my trolling motor as I was,” VanDam added.
VanDam and most of the others in the Classic using MotorGuide had Tour Edition TR109 Digital models on their boats. They say they prefer this model because it has a stainless steel shaft, a rock-steady Tour Gator Spring® mount bracket and a metal foot pedal … combining form and function to eliminate the flex that comes with plastic parts and to provide the smoothest in cable-steer operation.
Ever since Harris’ invention first hit the market more than 50 years ago, MotorGuide has continued to lead the way in trolling motor innovation. The brand has many firsts to its credit beyond just foot control and digital variable speed, including the retractable bow mount for easy stow and deploy, breakaway mount to protect the motor’s shaft from underwater run-ins, and digital technology for the finest in electronic performance.
Continuous improvements are always occurring within the MotorGuide product lineup, with the most recent coming from BASS Elite Series angler Brent Chapman’s father. Chapman developed a stainless steel pulley for the Tour Edition models to work with their upgraded stainless steel cables to improve upon steering feel and limiting steering torque, even when operating the motor at its highest speed setting of more than 100 pounds of thrust.
Additionally, MotorGuide now also has models that incorporate a built-in Lowrance® 200/83 kHz transducer with temperature sensor for compatibility with Lowrance HDS sonar units. Built-in transducers eliminate damage to cables and transducers from underwater obstructions, plus MotorGuide’s digital technology also helps eliminate sonar interference.
“We’re proud of the fact that the Classic trophy stays with the MotorGuide team once again, with last year’s champion Skeet Reese passing it along to now three-time Classic champion and five-time Angler of the Year Kevin VanDam,” said Kevin Fletcher, vice president of sales and marketing for Attwood Marine, the company that also includes MotorGuide products.
“We’re also proud of Pam Martin-Wells performance in having achieved the highest level ever for a female angler in the Classic, and we’re thrilled that four of the five top finishers on Lay Lake had MotorGuide on front of their boats. Congratulations to Kevin and all of our Classic anglers.”
Here are the final prototypes of the new Spro BBZ-1 micro 2.5. Weighing in at a whopping 6 grams (1/4 oz) this heavyweight is sure to knock out every fish that swims. From panfish to trout in the early spring; to those hard to get monster bass and stripers that roam the waters in late fall targeting the smallest baitfish that swim. This little gem is the newest addition to the BBZ-1 line up. Once again Spro has taken fishing to the next level. Production has started and Spro will be ready by July, at ICAST 2010.
YUM Soft Plastics announces the introduction of F2, independently tested to be 30 percent more effective than the leading attractant. Six bait styles are infused with this powerful scent, and unlike other attractant-injected baits, YUM F2 retains its suppleness and “swimability.” They also don’t dry into hard, wrinkled and useless shrivels when left out of the package.
Attract. Enrage. Engage. F2, or Ferocity Squared, is a highly concentrated formula clinically tested by the Mississippi State University under the strictest scientific conditions. The result is documented proof that bass prefer YUM F2 by 30 percent. Additional advantages include its ability to be infused in traditional soft plastics in any shape, long-lasting effectiveness and continuous dispersal of scent.
YUM F2 is initially available in four new bait styles and two existing YUM baits. The new baits include the Wooly Bullee, a flippin’ style bait; the Mighty Bug, a six-legged creature bait in three sizes; the Sallee-mander, a 6-inch swimming lizard; and the Shakealicious Worm, a 6-inch shaky head worm with an undulating skirt at the head. YUM Dingers and Money Craws also have been infused with F2.
YUM F2 just took over the top spot in bass attractants. It’s documented. It’s been proven in the strictest clinical scientific testing. Bass prefer F2. It’s the most-effective attractant on the market. Look for F2 taking over your local tackle shop or at www.lurenet.com.
fishorcutbait | 07/14/2010 10:37 pm | news's page Wondering if anyone has a great fishing or boating photo they might want to enter into a contest??
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rolltidefishing | 07/14/2010 6:19 pm | cal's page "One word, Smoke" Exactly!! I can't wait for a writeup on these reels and rods. Are the Smoke PT rod more
It’s good that I had my latest Pixzilla project or I would have been another victim of the winter doldrums. You got it, a long-cold spell …the water froze early last year but the ice hasn’t been suitable for any serious fishing. I’ve read all the books that I can stand, and surfing the net doesn’t help either.
Come-on, get real; how can you make a Pixzilla any better?!? It already approaches perfection for lighter presentations, and excels at pitching and casting a wide-range of lure weights. It’s no wonder that I have many of them now; they are fun to use, don’t hardly weigh anything, and the profile is easy for my crippled old hands to palm. If you’re a modder, there’s plenty to tinker with too! A Note: A stock Pixy is no slouch, many users outside of TackleTour have never heard of a Pixzilla! Just try buying a NIB LH Pixy – they don’t come up that often. However, if you are patient you can snag a used one! That’s exactly what I did, so read on…
The bottom red arrow in the picture below shows the hole where the level wind guard mounts in the palm plate side of frame. The paint was just a little too thick on the inside edge to allow the guard to pass through the hole. So I wrapped a small strip of 600 Wet and Dry sand paper around a ¼” dowel and lightly removed a small amount of paint on the inside edge – just enough to allow the guard to pass through. I don’t think it took more than a half-dozen light strokes with the paper to get what I needed.
Most of the 4x8mm end of the stock Pixy bushing collar needs to be removed to make the new collar. The good news is that the material is not that hard or brittle, and is very easy to work.
One of the first things I did was to fine-tune the new IZE 80mm carbon handle that I got from Plat. The knobs I used were from a brand new TD-Advantage-153HSTA. Unfortunately, I didn’t like the fit when you mounted them with the usual washer(s) beneath the bottom bearing on each post. One washer was not thick enough, and the ~.13mm axial slop in the knob resulted in a noticeable click when you cranked a reel. Yet 2 washers were too thick, and the knob would bind depending on how far you tightened the knob screw. So I sanded one of the washers under each knob to achieve just the right fit, using 600 then and 1200 Wet and Dry paper. I lubricated all knob bearings with Xtreme Reel+, a dry lubricant that I’m testing again this season.
I also did a little polishing and tuning on a few key parts. Something I’ve done on all of my low profile Daiwas now. I’ll even do it on a new reel, once I’ve checked it out. It feels so good afterward!
The stock Pixy has a drag stack that consists of a heavy top key washer, thick composite friction washer and an eared stainless steel washer that fits in the bottom of the drive gear. When new, the stock drag delivers about 3 to 4# of break-away pull, but running pull can be up to 1# less (especially after use). In addition, should the stack get contaminated with oil, grease or water; the running pull can become erratic and the stack may even stutter, and/or break-away pull can become non-repeatable from pull-to-pull. You’ll find more information about break-away and running drag in my previous 
I get a lot of PM’s and email from Pixy owners who are interested in a Pixy drag upgrade or have questions about the smoothdrag.com kit. It’s also a common topic in the Maintenance Section of the forum. So, I thought I’d provide a little more detail about it, since I used the kit for my custom Pixzilla – and suggest you do the same. Thanks Dawn!
You’ll want to clean the new metal 
“To use drag grease or not to use drag grease?” a question I get a lot on the forum. I prefer to use it because break-away drag seems to be closer to running drag and pull tends to be more consistent from pull to pull. In addition, the drag doesn’t seem to be nearly affected by “a good dunking” (yes accidents do occasionally happen), or a major “gully washer.” If you are a salt water anger or fish in brackish water the grease might help mitigate fouling of the stack.
Drag Grease Summary: So, the way the Teflon lubricant molecules shear in layers, how they behave under compression and the characteristics of the filler are what really distinguish drag grease from conventional reel grease. A Tip: I don’t necessarily recommend trying to use conventional reel grease in lieu of drag grease in a drag stack. It usually doesn’t last nearly as long and the drag stack can get sticky and inconsistent during use. Just my take after trying it a couple times; they were an emergency, honest!
Once the washers are dry after cleaning, I just work a small dab of Cal’s Grease into the surface with a finger and thumb. I like to ensure the grease actually gets inside the weave on both sides of the fiber because performance seems to last longer – but there is no need to get carried away with the grease. More is not necessarily better …read on!
I briefly mentioned the possibility of a +R tuned Pixy spool, toward the end of my 
So it didn’t take me long to realize that I had reached the point where man and his “well trained thumb” could no longer perform as well or as quickly as machine…. I would need a little bit of variable magnetic braking for my latest Pixy project!
I wrapped things up by dropping a set of higher precision spool bearings into the reel. I’ll have more about them later… and that’s all I’m saying for now! But as far as casting and pitching crits, I’ll just say 
YUM Soft Plastics announces the introduction of F2, independently tested to be 30 percent more effective than the leading attractant. Six bait styles are infused with this powerful scent, and unlike other attractant-injected baits, YUM F2 retains its suppleness and “swimability.” They also don’t dry into hard, wrinkled and useless shrivels when left out of the package.
